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VEGETARIAN 
DIET AND DISHES 



BY 
BENJAMIN SMITH LYMAN 



Pfjtlatielpfjta 

FERRIS & LEACH 

27 South Seventh Street 

1917 






Copyright, 191 7, by 
BENJAMIN SMITH LYMAN 



41 



X* 



MAR 27 1917 

©CI.A460046 



1 



CONTENTS 



VEGETARIAN DIET, 33 

INTRODUCTORY, 33 

Prevalent ignorance about vegetarian diet, 33 
General principles, 33 

Muscle-building element in food, 33 

Fuel for muscular work, 33 

Excess of muscle-building element in meat, 33 
Meat-eaters and vegetarians crave different vegetables, 33 
The stomach's important chemical discrimination, 34 

PRACTICABILITY OF VEGETARIANISM, 34 

A chemical question, whether vegetarian food can suffice, 34 
Need to investigate chemically the body and diets, 34 
Components of the human body and of foods, 35 

Water, 35 

Muscle and bone building, or protein ( including proteids 
and extractives), 35 

Fuel, or fat and carbohydrates (starch, sugar and cel- 
lulose), 35 

Ash, 35 
Composition of the human body, 35 
Chemistry a surer guide than cravings, 35 

The Vabious Diets of Mankind, 36 
Statistics, 36 

Water omitted, as misleading, 36 

Ash included, 37 
Table of diets and their means, 37 
Diagram of diets and their means, 39 
Deductions from the table and diagram, 39 

Differences mainly in total quantity, 39 

National differences, 39 

Fat in American diets, 40 

Chinese diet in America, 40 

Proportions not widely different, 40 

Mean of all diets, the model diet, 41 

Reasons for special variations, 41 

Proportions of general model diet, 42 

Special adjustment by cravings, 42 

Differences of total quantity, 42 

Guides to correct adjustment, 43 



■i vegetarian diet and dishes. 

Composition of Foods, 44 

Statistics, 44 

Table of food- composition, 44 
Diagram of food-composition, 49 

Deductions from the table and diagram, 49 
Comparison of different classes of food, 49 
Mean of vegetable foods, 50 
Unexpected resemblances in composition, 50 
Vegetable foods of nearly model composition, 50 
Composition indicates the vegetables preferable for vege- 
tarians or meat-eaters, 51 
Counterbalancing the composition of different foods, 51 
Meat-eaters' craving for alcohol and sweetmeats, 51 
Vegetarian diet a cure for alcoholic cravings, 51 
T. K. Chambers, Liebig, C. 0. Groom-Napier, H. P. Fowler, 

S. Graham, 52 
Game- eating Ainos' and American savages' craving for 

alcohol, 52 
Man's original diet naturally vegetarian, Dr. Richardson, 52 
Mankind still mainly vegetarian, 53 

Superiority, if any, of meat-eating races due to abundance 
of food, 53 

ADVANTAGES OF VEGETARIANISM, 53 

Physiological Superiority, 53 

Statistical Proof, 53 

Group observations, 54 

Muscular strength of vegetarians, 54 

Brussels vegetarians, by Ioteyko and Kipiani, 54 

Fisher and Gautier on vegetarian diet, 54 

Vegetarians' youthful vigor, muscular endurance, 55 

Greater endurance of vegetarian Irish, Scotch and French 

laborers; also in Europe generally, in Morocco, India, 

China, South America and Mexico, 55 
Russell, Chittenden, Combe, Metchnikoff, Tissler, Hester on 

vegetarians' strength, 56 
Harmful ingredients in meat (Turck), 56 
Theoretical arguments, 56 

Not excessive nitrogen, but great quantity of food, for 

great working power, 56 
Ideally proportioned diet, the average of all diets, 57 
Departure from that ideal and average, distasteful to 

primitive man, 57 
Disgusting components of flesh foods, 57 
Flesh food often contains parasites, or is diseased, 57 
Change from flesh to vegetarian diets not necessarily grad- 
ual, 58 
Proved possibility of changes between flesh and vegetarian 

diets, 58 
Eradication of alcoholic cravings, 59 



CONTENTS. 5 

Vegetarian preservation of the teeth. ">!' 
Absurdity of the " carnivorous tooth " argument, 59 

Gassendi, Cuvier, 60 
Intestinal canal argument, 61 
Absurd inference of Hindoo weakness from vegetarian 

diet, 61 
Great naturalists and others in favor of vegetarian diet, 62 
Individual experience, 62 

Difficulty of inferring superior healthfulness from indi- 
vidual cases, 63 
The writer's own experience, 63 
Vegetarian diet less essential than bodily exercise, 64 

Economical Benefits of Vegetarianism, 64 
Sentimental Beabings of Vegetarianism, 65 
Moral, religious, superstitious, and esthetic considerations, 65 
Slaughter of animals, 65 
Needlessness, 66 

Slaughtering of animals, if necessary, honorable, 66 
Slaughter not necessary, 66 
Slaughter not universal, not primeval. 66 
Time-honored dislike of slaughter among the refined, 66 
Mencius, in China, 66 
Kalidasa Sakuntala, in India, 67 
Princely hunting, 67 
Chaucer, 6S 
Our own butchers, 68 
Instinctive disgust at meat, 69 
Tolstoi Society, 69 
Slaughter opposed by religious sects, 69 
Buddhists, 69 
Carthusians, 69 
American sects, 70 
Cruelty in general revolting, 70 
Affection, 70 

Unsympathetic sportsmen, anglers, 71 
Racial importance of kindliness, 72 

SUMMARY, 73 

VEGETARIAN DISHES, 75 

GENERAL PRINCIPLES, 75 
Methods in General, 75 

Effect of different modes of cooking, 75 

Broiling, roasting, baking, boiling, frying, curry, 75 
Secret of cooking vegetables well, 76 
Combining materials, 76 
Subordinate additions, 76 
Cooking viands together, 77 
Sauces, 78 



O VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

English and American cooking, 78 

Craving, if corrupt, not a good guide, 78 

The palate hitherto the main guide in cookery, 79 

Chemically well-balanced diet and dishes, 80 

Kinds of Vegetarian Foods, 80 

Classification to be chemical and physiological, 80 
Arrangement according to the amount of protein, 81 

Animal foods, 81 

Eggs, 81 

Hens' and ducks' eggs, 81 

Nutriment in eggs, 81 
Milk and Dairy Products, 82 

However agreeable, not necessary, 82 

Especially useful for children, 82 

Nutriment in milk, 82 

Balancing deficiencies of other foods, 82 

Vegetable Foofo, 82 

Vegetables, 82 

Sevenfold grouping, 83 
Seven groups, with table of composition, 83 

1. Shoots, 83 

2. Pulse, 83 

3. Leaves, 83 

4. Herbaceous fruits, 83 

5. Unripe cereals, 84 

6. Gourds, 84 

7. Roots, 84 

Explanation of the vegetable table, 84 

Nutriment in the vegetable groups, 84 
Nuts, 85 

Table of chemical composition, 85 

Nutriment and use, 86 
Cereals, 86 

Table of chemical composition, 86 

Nutriment and use, 87 
Tree-fruits, berries and melons, 88 

Table of chemical composition, 88 

Nutriment and use, 88 
Vegetable products, 89 
General view of the vegetable food classes, 89 

PRACTICAL DETAH.S, 89 

Sources of the compilation, 89 
Foreign dishes, 90 
Weights and measures, 91 

Precision generally needless, 91 

Table of weights and measures, 91 

Degrees of heat of ovens, 91 



CONTENTS. 

Foods of Animal Origin, cii 
Eggs, 92 

Keeping egg-. 92 

Water, limewater, 92 

Ldquid glass, smearing with butter, cold storage, 92 

Light test, 93 

Degrees ot freshness, 93 
Preparation for eating, 94 

Raw egg, 94 

Eggnog, 94 

Heated eggs, M 

Eggs in the shell, '.'4 

Soft eggs, 94 

Hard eggs, 95 

Hard eggs for salad, 93 

Poached eg«±, 95 

Fried eggs, 95 

Black-butter eggs, 95 

Eggs with white sauce, 96 

Eggs with sorrel, 96 

Eggs with bechamel sauce, 90 

Eggs in tripe fashion, 9G 

Mirror eggs, 9fl 

Mirror eggs with asparagus, !>ii 

Eggs with fine-herbs, 90 

Scrambled eggs, 97 

Scrambled egge with cheese, 97 

Scrambled eggs with truffles, 97 

Scrambled eggs with mushroom-, 97 

Scrambled eggs with asparagus tips, 97 

Stuffed eggs, 97 

Plain omelet, 98 

Omelet with fine-herbs, 98 

Omelet with asparagus tips, 98 

Omelet with mushrooms, 98 

Another omelet with mushrooms, !)!> 

Omelet with morels, 99 

Another omelet with morels, 99 

Omelet with truffles. 99 

Another omelet with truffles, 99 

Omelet with onion, 99 

Frothy omelet, 99 

Sugar omelet, 100 

Rum omelet, 100 

Preserve omelet, or Celestine omelet, 100 

Puffed omelet, 100 

Baked water-custard, 101 

Baked milk- custard, 101 

Boiled custard, 101 

Snowball custard, 101 

Custard pie, 102 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Sambayone cream, 102 

Common merangs, 103 

Merangs with cream, preserves and the like, 103 

White- of- egg macaroons, 103 

Egg sauce, 103 

Dairy Products, 104 

Milk and cream, 104 
Care of milk, 104 

Bacteria, 104 

Dirt, 104 

Scalding, 105 

Keeping cool, 105 

Receptacle, 105 

Sterilized milk, 105 

Pasteurized milk, 105 

Lightning jar, 105 

Icebox, 105 

P. H. Smith, 106 

Massachusetts Board of Agriculture, 106 

Rapid multiplication of germs, 106 
To prevent milk from turning, 106 
Milk punch, 106 
Turkish yourt, 106 
Sour-cream salad dressing, 106 
Cream salad dressing, 106 
Milk sauce, 107 
Milk mustard sauce, 107 
Cream sauce, 107 
Creams, 107 
Vanilla, lemon, orange, cherry-laurel, orangeflower, 

coffee cream, 108 
Chocolate cream, 108 
Caramel cream, 108 
Overset cream, 109 
Blanc-mange, 109 
Cream pie, 110 
Bavarian cheese, 110 
Whipped cream, or Chantilly cheese, 110 
Another whipped cream, 111 
Good Mary cheese (or cream), 111 
Charlotte Russe, 111 
Pastry cream, 112 
Ice cream, 112 
Another ice cream, 112 
French vanilla ice cream, 113 
Other flavoring for ice cream, 113 
Ice cream so-called, 113 
Butter, 114 
By itself, 114 
'Quality, 114 
Keeping, 114 



CONTENTS. 

Salting down, 114 

Melting down, 114 

Oiled, or clarified, butter, 115 
Side dish, 115 

Butter with vegetables, 115 
Sauces, 116 
Boiling sauces down, 116 
Thickening, 116 

Thickening with flour, 116 

Thickening with arrowroot, 116 

Thickening with butter, 116 

Thickening with butter and flour or arrowroot, 116 

Brown thickening, 117 

Thickening with egg, 117 

Thickening with egg and cream, 118 
Butter sauce (melted butter), 118 
Another butter sauce, 118 
Landlord's sauce, 118 
Poorman's sauce, 118 
Black-butter sauce, 110 
Piquant sauce, 119 
Another piquant sauce, 119 
A third piquant sauce, 119 
Pepper sauce, 119 
Mustard sauce, 120 
Brown sauce, 120 
American white sauce, 120 
Parisian white sauce, 120 
Norman white sauce, 120 
White sauce acidulated with sorrel, 121 
White sauce with capers, 121 
Blanquette sauce, 121 
Pullet sauce, 121 
Bechamel sauce, 121 
Remoulade sauce, 121 
Warm ravigote sauce, 122 
Cold ravigote sauce, 122 
Tartar sauce, 122 
White mayonnaise sauce, 122 
Green mayonnaise sauce, 122 
Ayoli sauce, 122 
Soubise sauce, 123 
Madeira sauce, 123 
Devilled sauce, 123 
Curry sauce, 123 
Bordeaux sauce, 124 
Bearnese sauce, 124 
Dutch sauce, 124 
Italian sauce, 124 
Provencal sauce, 124 
Venetian sauce, 124 
Cooked salad-dressing, 125 



10 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Curds and cheese, 125 
Kinds of cheese, 125 
Buttermilk cheese, 126 
Buttermilk cream, 127 
Devonshire cream, 127 
Devonshire cream, again, 127 
Cheese as food, 127 
Bill-of-fare making, with cheese, 128 
Keeping cheese, 129 
Grating cheese, 129 
Flavoring of cheese dishes, 129 
Curds and whey (or junket), 129 
Sour-curdled curds and whey, 130 
Cottage cheese, 130 

Additional notes on cottage cheese, 130 
Uncooked curd, or French cottage cheese, 131 
Cheese with cream, 131 
Sour- cream cheese, 131 
Cream cheese, 132 
Cheese sauce, 132 
Potted cheese, 132 
Welsh rabbit, 133 
Welsh rabbit, another way, 133 
Cheese on toast, 133 
Cheese turnovers, 133 
Baked crackers and cheese, No. 1, 133 
Baked crackers and cheese, No. 2, 134 
Cheese rolls, 134 
Boston roast, 134 
Pimiento and cheese roast, 134 
Nut and cheese roast, 135 
Cheese and spinach roll, 135 
Vegetable and cheese rolls, 135 
Cheese with mush, 135 
Fried bread with cheese, 135 
Potatoes with cheese sauce, 135 
Scalloped potatoes with cheese, No. 1, 135 
Scalloped potatoes with cheese. No. 2, 130 
Scalloped cabbage, or cauliflower, with cheese. 136 
Cheese with salads, 136 
Plain cheese salad, 136 
Cheese and tomato salad, 136 
Cheese and pimiento salad, 136 
Cheese jelly salad, 137 
Cheese salad and preserves, 137 
Cheese and celery, 137 
Buttermilk cream salad dressing, 137 
Buttermilk cream horseradish salad dressing, 137 
Olive and pimiento sandwich, or salad, cheese, 137 
Cheese sandwiches, 138. 
Cuban sandAviches, 138 
Toasted cheese sandwiches, 138 



CONTENTS. 11 

Milk and cheese soup, 138 

Cheese and vegetable soup, 138 

Cheese pastry, cheese sweets and the like, 138 

Cheese biscuit, No. 1, 139 

Cheese biscuit, No. 2, 139 

Cheese wafers, 139 

Cheese relish, 139 

Cheese straws, 139 

Salad biscuit, 139 

Cheese gingerbread, No. 1, 140 

Cheese gingerbread, No. 2, 140 

Brown Betty with cheese, 140 

Cheese cake pie, 140 

Vegetable Foods, 141 
Tcfletables, 141 

Structure, 141 

Preparation and cooking in general, 141 

Changes during cooking, 141 

Kitchen-blanching, 142 
Shoots, 143 
Asparagus, 143 

Asparagus on toast, 143 

Asparagus with white sauce, 143 

Asparagus with oil, 143 

Boiled asparagus bits, 143 

Asparagus like green peas, 143 
Milk-weed shoots, 144 
Sea kale, 144 
Shoots of briers and hops, 144 

Brier shoots, or hop shoots, with white sauce, 144 

Brier shoots, or hop shoots, like green peas, 144 
Poke stalks, 144 
Bamboo shoots, 145 
Brake shoots, 145 
Mushrooms, 145 

Mushrooms for garnishing, 14.5 

Stewed mushrooms, 146 

Stew T ed mushrooms in Provencal fashion, 146 

Mushrooms in pullet fashion, 146 

Mushrooms on toast, 146 

Mushrooms on shells, 146 

French broiled mushrooms, 147 

Broiled mushrooms, 147 

Fried mushrooms, 147 

Stewed mushrooms, 147 

Stuffed mushrooms, 147 

Mushroom pie, 148 

Mushroom catchup, 148 

French mushroom catchup, 148 

Canning mushrooms, 149 



12 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Morels, 149 

Drying morels and cepes, 149 
Truffles, 150 

Plain truffles, 150 

Canning truffles, 150 
Some other mushrooms, 150 
Pulse, 152 

Removing the skin, 152 

Dried pulse, 152 

General preparation of dried pulse, 152 

Roasted pulse, 153 

Salted beans, 153 

Cooking shell-beans and green peas, 153 

Canned beans and peas, 154 

Pulse flour, 154 

Soup of dried pulse, 154 

Soup tablets and pea sausage, 155 
Soy bean, 155 

Natto, 156 

Miso, 156 

Tofu, 156 
Aburage, 156 
Koritofu, 156 

Substitutes for milk and cheese, 156 

Soy bean compared with eggs, milk and cheese, 157 
table, 157 

Deductions from the table, 157 
Broad or Windsor (or Mazagan) bean, 158 

Boiling broad beans, 158 

Broad beans in pullet fashion, 158 

Broad bean soup, 158 
Peanut, 158 

Roasted peanuts, 159 

Peanut butter, 159 

Peanut taffy, 159 

Terralac, or peanut milk, 159 

Terralac custards, 160 

Terralac punch, 160 

Terralac cream, 161 

Terralac-cream salad-dressing, 161 

Terralac sauce, 161 

Terralac-cream sauce, 161 

Terralac creams, 161 

Terralac blanc-mange, 161 

Terralac-cream pie, 161 

Terralac Bavarian cheese, 161 

Terralac in soup, 161 

Ice-terralac, or peanut ice cream, 162 

Peanut soup, 162 

Salted peanuts, 162 
Lentil, 162 

Lentils in good-woman's fashion, 162 



CONTENTS. 

Lentils in Breton fashion, 102 
Lentils with oil, 162 
Lentil soup, 162 
Another lentil soup, 163 
Baked lentils, 163 
Stewed lentils, 163 
Moulded lentils, 163 
Cowpea, 163 
Garden pea, 164 
Green peas, 164 
Boiled peas with butter, 164 
Peas with lettuce, 165 
Green peas with sugar, 165 
Canned peas, 165 
Mashed green peas, 165 
Sugar pea-pods, 166 
Peas in the pod, 166 
Mashed pea-pods, 166 
Green-pea soup, 166 
Another green-pea soup, 160 
Split-pea soup, 167 
Pea soup, 167 
Pea and rice soup, 167 
Pea and sago soup, 167 
Field pea, 168 
Navy bean, 168 
White bean, 168 

Preliminary boiling, 168 
White beans in good-woman's fashion, 169 
White beans in Breton fashion, 169 
Stewed white beans, 169 
Stewed dried beans, 169 
Dried beans with sauce, 169 
Dried beans in salad, 169 
White beans with oil, 169 
Baked beans, 170 
Mashed white beans, 170 
Dried-bean mash, 170 
Dried-bean soup, 170 
French bean soup, 171 
Cream of bean soup, 171 
Frijol, 171 
Scarlet runner bean, 171 

Boiled scarlet beans, 172 
Lablab bean, asparagus bean, and Mungo bean, 172 
String, snap, or green, bean, 172 
Blanching green beans, 173 
Greenbeans, plain, 173 
Preserving, 173 
In brine, 173 
Drying, 174 
Canning, 174 



13 



14 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Preliminary cooking, 174 

String-beans in landlord's fashion, 17-1 

String-beans with cream, 175 

String-beans in pullet fashion, 175 

String-bean salad, 175 

Canned string-beans, 175 

Dried string-beans, 175 

Brine string-beans, 175 
Shelled kidney bean, 175 
Red bean and black bean, 175 
Lima bean and flageolet, 176 

Drying, 176 

Boiled green lima beans, 176 

Stewed lima beans, 176 

Preparatory cooking of lima beans, 176 

Lima beans in landlord's fashion, 176 

Lima beans with cream, 177 

Canned lima beans, 177 

Dried lima beans, 177 

Lima bean soup, 177 
Chickpea, 177 
Locust bean, 177 
Predomes, or eat-all bean, 177 

Predomes fricasses, 177 
Leaves, 179 
Spinach, 179 

Blanching spinach, 179 

Spinach with cream, 179 

Spinach with egg, 179 

Spinach cooked without water, 180 

Spinach with broth, 180 

Spinach with sugar, 180 

Spinach for coloring, 180 
Cress, 181 

Water-cress salad, 181 

Water-cress instead of spinach, 181 
Sorrel, 181 

Sorrel mash for a garnish, 181 

Sorrel soup, 181 

Sorrel soup with bread, rice or vermicelli, 182 

Sorrel soup with pulse broth, 183 

Sorrel broth, or herb broth, 183 

Canning sorrel, 183 
Lettuce, 183 

Salads, 183 

French salad dressing, 184 

Lettuce-salad with French dressing, 184 

Lettuce- salad, 185 

Lettuce- salad with cream dressing, 185 

Lettuce-salad with cream, 185 

Mayonnaise salad-dressing, 186 

Common salad-dressing with mustard (r6moulade), 186 

Boiled lettuce, 186 



CONTENTS. 15 

Lettuce with pullet sauce, ISO 
Stuffed lettuce, 186 
Roman salad, or cos-lettuce, 1ST 
Corn salad, 187 
Chicory, 187 

Chicory -salad, 187 

Cooked chicory, 187 

Canning chicory, 188 
Endive, 18S 
Cardoon, 188 
Swiss chards, 188 
Beet greens, 189 
Dandelion, 189 

Mustard-leaves and dock, 189 
Various spring greens, 189 
Celery, 190 

Celery-salad, 190 

Celery as a side-dish, 190 

Stewed celery, 190 

Celery with brown-butter sauce, 191 

Browned celery, 191 

Celery- vinegar, 191 
Cabbage, 191 

Boiled cabbage, 192 

Creamed cabbage, 192 

Cabbage with white sauce, 192 

Browned cabbage, 192 

Stuffed cabbage, 193 

White stuffed cabbage, 193 

Cabbage soup, 193 

Cold slaw, 194 

Warm slaw, 194 

Cabbage salad, 194 

Sourer out, 194 

Pickled red cabbage, 195 
Kale, or borecole, 195 

Minced kale, 195 
Brussels sprouts, 196 

Brussels sprouts blanched, 196 

Fried Brussels sprouts, 196 

Brussels sprouts in landlord's fashion, 196 

Brussels sprouts with white sauce, 197 

Brussels sprouts with pullet sauce, 197 

Brussels sprouts with brown sauce, 197 
Cauliflower, 197 

Plain boiled cauliflower, 197 

Creamed cauliflower, 198 

Cauliflowers with white sauce, 198 

Cauliflowers with tomato sauce, 199 

Browned cauliflowers, 199 

Cauliflowers with cheese, 199 

Cauliflowers with cheese in a simpler way, 199 



16 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Fried cauliflowers, 199 

Cauliflowers with oil, 200 

Cauliflowers for trimmings, 200 
Brocoli, 200 
Collards, 200 
Kohl-rabi, or turnip -cabbage, 200 

Boiled kohl-rabi, 200 
Rhubarb, 201 

Canning rhubarb, 201 

Rhubarb sauce, 201 

Rhubarb pudding, or dumpling, 201 

Rhubarb pies, 202 

French rhubarb pie, 202 

Another French rhubarb pie, 202 

Rhubarb pudding, 202 
Leek, 202 

Hashed leeks, 203 

French leek soup, 203 

Leek soup, 203 

Cream of leek soup, 203 
Sea-samphire (Crithmum maritimum), 204 

Pickling sea-samphire, 204 
Parsley, 204 

Drying, 204 

Crisped, 204 
Chervil, 204 
Tarragon, 204 

Drying, 204 

Tarragon-vinegar, 205 
Sweet-basil, green mint, sweet-marjoram, 205 

Sweet-basil, green mint, or sweet-marjoram vinegar, 205 
Burnet, 205 

Burnet-vinegar, 205 
Fine-herbs, 205 

Flavor-posy, bouquet garni, or pot-herbs, 206 
Vegetables for flavoring, 206 

Frying vegetables for flavoring, 207 

Cooking flavorers, 207 
Nasturtium, 207 

Pickling, nasturtium buds or seeds, 208 
Angelica, 208 

Angelica comfits, 208 
Herbaceous fruits, 209 
Banana, 209 

Eggplant, or brinjal, 210 
Fried eggplant, 210 
Another way, 210 
Baked eggplant, 210 
Stuffed eggplant, 210 
Broiled eggplant, 211 
Eggplant on the gridiron, 211 
Stewed eggplant, 211 



CONTENT8. 17 

Tomato, 211 

Peeling tomatoes, 211 

Stewed tomatoes, 212 

Scalloped tomatoes, 212 

Tomato toast, 212 

Canning stewed tomatoes, 212 

Canning whole tomatoes, 212 

Stuffed tomatoes, 213 

Browned tomatoes, 213 

Pickled tomatoes, 213 

Mashed tomatoes, 213 

Tomato soup, 214 

Tomato sauce, 214 

French tomato sauce, 214 

Tomato catchup, 215 

Another way, 21.> 
Okra, 215 

Boiled okra, 216 

Stewed okra. 216 

Okra with Dutch sauce. 216 

Tomato and okra soup, 216 
Artichoke, 216 

Preparing artichokes, 217 

Artichokes with white sauce, 217 

Artichokes with brown-butter sauce, 217 

Fried artichokes, 218 

Artichokes with pepper sauce, 218 

Keeping artichokes, 218 
Peppers, 218 

Green peppers stuffed and baked, 218 

Pickled peppers, 219 

Another way, 219 

To make cayenne pepper, 219 

Pickled cayenne peppers, 219 

Chilli- vinegar, 220 
Physalis, or ground-cherry, or husk-tomato, 220 
Mustard, 220 

Mustard in a minute, 220 

To mix mustard, 221 

French mustard, 221 

Keeping mustard, 221 
Unripe cereals, 222 
Green corn, 222 

Boiled green corn, four ways, 222 

Boiled corn on the cob, 222 

Corn cut from the cob, 222 

Green corn cakes, 223 

Corn muffins, 223 

Corn oysters, 223 

Succotash, 223 

Another way, 223 



18 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Gourds, 224 
Cucumber, 224 

Cooking cucumbers, 224 

Preliminary cooking, 224 

In landlord's fashion, 224 

With pullet sauce, 224 

With bechamel sauce, 224 

Stewed cucumbers, 224 

Fried cucumbers, 224 

French fried cucumbers, 225 

Cucumber salad, 225 

French cucumber salad, 225 

Cucumber pie, 225 

Pickled gherkins, 225 

Another method, 226 
Pumpkin and squash, 226 

Cooking summer- squash, 226 

Stewed vegetable marrow, 227 

Mashed pumpkin, or winter- squash, 227 

Pumpkin, or winter-squash, marmalade, 227 

Pumpkin, or squash, pie, 227 

Another pumpkin, or squash, pie, 228 

Pumpkin, or squash, soup, 228 
Roots, 229 
Celeriac, 229 

Celeriac mash, 229 

Cream of celeriac soup, 229 
Radish, 229 
Horseradish, 230 

Horseradish-vinegar, 230 

Another way, 230 

Horseradish powder, 230 
Beet, 230 

Boiled beet-root, 231 

Baked beet-root, 231 

Fried beet-root, 231 

Beets with butter, 231 

Beets for salad, 231 

Beets in country fashion, 232 
Onion, 232 

Boiled onions in white sauce, 232 

Fried onions, 233 

English stewed onions, 233 

Stewed onions, 233 

Glazed onions for a garnish, 233 

Pickled onions, 233 

Onion soup, 234 

Onion soup with milk, 234 

Another onion soup, 234 

Onion soup with rice, or vermicelli, 234 

Onion pie, 234 

Onion pudding, 235 



CONTENTS. 19 

Onion and sage pasty, 235 

Onion chowder, 235 

Keeping onions through the winter, 235 

Shallot vinegar, 235 
Chive, 236 
Turnip, 236 

Boiled turnips, 236 

Hashed turnips, 236 

Turnip hash soup, 237 

Turnips with white sauce, 237 

Turnips with pullet sauce, 237 

Turnips with sugar, 237 

Mashed turnips, 237 

Flemish, or turnip, soup, 238 

Turnip pie, 238 
Ruta-baga, 238 
Potato, 238 

Baked potatoes, 240 

Potatoes baked in the ashes, or in the oven, 240 

Potatoes in their jacket, 240 

Kitchiner's boiled potatoes, 240 

French boiled potatoes, 241 

Boiled potatoes, 241 

Steamed potatoes, 241 

Reheating potatoes, 241 

Scalloped potatoes, 242 

Potatoes for a garnish, 242 

Lyonnese potatoes, 242 

Hashed potatoes, 243 

Hashed brown potatoes, 243 

Stewed potatoes, 243 

Another way, 243 

Fried potatoes, 243 

Potato-straws, 244 

Potatoes in landlord's fashion, 244 

Potato-stew, 244 

Potatoes with white sauce, 245 

Potatoes in sailor fashion, 245 

Potatoes in Provencal fashion, 245 

Mashed potatoes, 245 

Browned mashed potatoes, 245 

Duchess potatoes, 245 

Potato soup, 246 

French potato soup, 246 

Potato salad, 247 

Cabbage and potato mash, 247 

Potato pie, 247 
Carrot, 247 

Boiled carrots, 248 

Carrots with white sauce, 248 

Carrots in coimtry fashion, 248 

Small new carrots with pullet sauce, 248 



20 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cressy, or carrot, soup, 249 

Carrot pie, 249 

Angel locks, 249 
Salsify, or oyster-plant, 249 

Cooking salsify, 250 

Salsify with white sauce, 250 

Salsify with pullet sauce, 250 

Fried salsify, 250 

Scorzonera, 251 

Fried scorzonera, 251 
Parsnip, 251 

Cooking parsnips, 251 

Baked parsnips, 251 
Jerusalem- artichoke, 251 

Boiled Jerusalem-artichoke, 252 

Jerusalem-artichokes in milk (or terralac), 252 

Jerusalem -artichokes with white sauce, 252 

Jerusalem-artichokes in landlord's fashion, 252 

Fried Jerusalem-artichokes, 252 

Jerusalem-artichoke salad, 253 

Jerusalem-artichokes for a garnish, 253 

Jerusalem -artichokes with pullet sauce, 253 
Sweet-potato, 253 

Baked sweet-potatoes, 253 

Browned sweet-potatoes, 253 

Fried sweet-potatoes, 253 

Candied sweet-potatoes, 254 
Various vegetables mixed, 254 

Vegetable hash, 254 

Vegetable broth ( or stock resembling ordinary stock ) , 254 

Vegetable broth, 255 

Brown soup, 255 

Another brown soup, 255 

Mixed vegetable soup, 255 

Herb soup, 256 

Hotchpotch, 256 

Winter hotchpotch, 257 

Spring soup, 257 

Spring soup with poached eggs, 257 

Julienne soup, 257 

Mashed julienne soup, 258 

Julienne soup with dried vegetables, 258 

Brown vegetable medley, 258 

White vegetable medley, 258 

Vegetable medley salad, 259 

Vegetable pie, 259 

A vegetable curry, 259 

White curry, 260 

Curry powder, 260 

Curry powder, 260 

Chutney, 261 



CONTENTS. 21 

Nuts, 262 
Walnuts, 2&1 

Giving to dry old walnuts the appearance of fresh ones, 202 

Salted green walnuts, 262 

Walnut, or butternut, catchup, 262 

Walnut comfits, 202 
Almonds, 263 

Salted almonds, 263 

Marchpane, 263 

Macaroons, 263 

Xougat, or almond cake, 263 

Almond milk, 264 

Orgeat syrup, 264 

Burnt almonds, 264 

Replacing, 265 
Filberts, 265 

Filbert milk, 265 
Chocolate, 265 

Chocolate with water or milk, 265 
Chestnuts, 266 

Boiled chestnuts, 266 

Roasted chestnuts, 266 

Stewed chestnuts, 266 

Glazed chestnuts, 266 

Mashed chestnut soup, 266 

Chestnut-flour puff, 267 
Coconut, 267 

Coconut-custard pie, 267 

Cereals, 268 
Oats, 268 

Oatmeal water, 268 

Oatmeal gruel, 268 

Oatmeal porridge, 268 

Oatmeal bread, 268 

Oatcake, 269 

Sowens (in English Flummery), 269 

Scotch sowens, 269 
Barley, 270 

Barley water, 270 

Barley gruel, 270 

Barley broth, 270 

Barley griddle cakes, 270 

Barley soup, 271 

Barley and pea soup, 271 

Pearl barley pudding, without milk or eggs, 271 

Moulded barley, 271 
Wheat, 273 
Wheaten grits, flour, pastes, 273 

Frumenty, 273 

Frumenty, 273 

Cracked wheat (or wheaten grits) soup, 273 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cracked wheat (or wheaten grits) soup with milk, 273 

Cracked wheat pudding, 273 

Flour gruel, 274 

Wheat flour soup, 274 

Overset porridge, 274 

Macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli, Italian pastes and the like, 

275 
Macaroni, and cheese, No. 1, 275 
Macaroni and cheese, No. 2, 275 
Macaroni with cheese and tomato sauce, 275 
Italian macaroni and cheese, 275 
Macaroni in Italian fashion, 276 
Browned macaroni, 276 
Macaroni eggless omelet, 276 
Macaroni pie, 276 

Vermicelli, or Italian paste, soup, 277 
Lazane soup, 277 

Vermicelli, or Italian paste, soup with milk, 277 
Macaroni soup, 277 
Noodle soup, 277 
Quenefe soup, 278 
Bread, 278 
Unleavened bread, 278 
Maryland, or beaten, biscuit, 278 
Raised bread, 279 

Baker's bread, 279 

Homemade bread, 279 

Flour, 280 

Yeast, 280 

Leaven, 280 

Water, 281 

Salt, 281 

Kneading, 281 

Rising, 282 

Baking, 282 

Cooling, 282 

Keeping, 282 

Homemade and baker's bread, 283 
Homemade hop yeast, 283 

Potato yeast, 284 

Hard yeast, 284 
Salt-rising, or milk yeast, 284 
Substitutes for yeast, 284 
Graham bread, 285 
Fancy leavened bread, 286 
Simnel, 286 
Soda biscuit, 286 
Breadbits for soup, 286 
Little trays of bread, 287 
Bread and milk, or terralac, 287 
French panada, 287 
Brewis, 287 









CONTENTS. 28 

Rusk, 288 

Sweetened rusk, or homemade breakfast food, 288 
Toast, 288 
Buttered toast, 289 
Dry toast, 289 
Toast water, 289 
Dip toast, 290 
Hotwater toast, 290 
Molasses toast, 290 
Milk toast, 290 
Cream toast, 291 
Cakes, 291 

Sally Lunn teacakes, 291 
Muffins, 291 
Crumpets, 291 
Buns, 291 

Cross buns, 292 

Seed buns, 292 

Plum buns, 292 
Bath buns, 292 
American buns, 292 
Pitcaithly Bannocks, 293 
Shrewsbury cakes, 293 

Wafer-cakes, waffles, griddle, or flannel, cakes, crullers or 
wonders, 293 

French wafers, 293 

Wafer cakes, 294 

Cream griddle cakes, 294 

Waffles, 294 

Wonders, or crullers, 294 
Roussettes, 294 
Pancakes, 295 
Sweet pancakes, 295 
French pancakes, 295 
Cake, 296 

Mixing and baking any cake, 296 

Icing or frosting, 296 

Gingerbread, 297 

Sponge gingerbread, 297 

Gingersnaps and seed- cookies, 297 

Shortcake, 297 

Briosh, 297 

French plumcake (baba), 298 

English plumcake, 299 

English cake, 299 

Doughcake, baked or fried, 300 

Doughnuts, 300 
Yeast-raised plain loaf-cake, 300 

Doughnuts, 300 
Rich loaf- cake, 300 
Four quarters, 300 

With almonds, 300 



24 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

One-two-three-four cake, 300 

Chocolate cake, 301 

Jelly cake, 301 

Orange cake, 301 

Almond cake, 301 

Coconut cake, 301 

Strawberry, peach, cranberry, quince cake and the like, 
301 
Egg-raised plain cake, 301 

Crullers, 301 
Pound cake, 302 
Fruit cake, 302 

With walnut meats, or almonds, 302 
Huckleberry cake, 302 

Currants and other berries, instead, 302 
Gold-and-silver cake, 302 
Plain sponge cake, 302 

Doughnuts, 303 
Rich sponge cake, 303 

Lady fingers, 303 
Wheaten puddings, 303 
Groat pudding, 303 
Rolled pudding, 303 
French rolled pudding, 303 
Loaf pudding, 304 

Bread pudding without milk or eggs, 304 
Left-over bread pudding, 304 
Fried bread pudding, 304 
Boiled bread pudding, 304 
Bread pudding with onion, 305 
Pudding and dumpling cloths, 305 
French boiled bread pudding, 305 
Baked bread pudding, 306 
French bread pudding, 306 
Bread-and-butter pudding, 306 
Brown Betty pudding, 307 
Batter pudding without eggs, 307 
Boiled batter pudding, 307 
Baked batter pudding, 308 
Cream batter pudding, 308 
Quick-done, 308 
Cottage pudding, 309 
Plum pudding, 309 

Sauce for the plum pudding, 310 
American boiled plum pudding, 310 
American baked plum pudding, 311 
Bread and plum puddings in general, 311 
Fritters, 312 

Plain fritters, 312 

Frying batter, 312 

Batter for frying vegetables, 312 

Preserve fritters, 312 



CONTENTS. 25 

Pulls, 313 

Puffs with cream, 313 

Puffed fritters, 313 

Cream fritters, 314 

Boston cream cakes, 314 

Cream for filling, 314 
Pastry, 315 

Sand paste, 315 

Short paste, 315 

French puff paste, 316 

American puff paste, 316 

Plain paste, 317 

Common pie crust, 318 

Paste without butter, 318 

Pies, 318 

Pie paste, 319 

Paste for pumpkin and custard pies, 319 

Frangipane, 319 

Almond frangipane, 320 

Frangipane pie, 320 
Rye, 321 

Rye bread, 321 

Rye (or wheat) drop cakes, 321 
Maize, or Indian corn, 322 

Hominy, 322 

Hominy porridge, 322 

Hominy fritters, 322 

Parched and popped corn, 323 

Corn-meal gruel, 323 

Water gruel, 323 

Hasty pudding, or mush, 323 

Johnny cake, or pone, 324 
Hoe' cake, 324 

Indian bread, 324 

Wheat and Indian bread, 324 

Rye and Indian bread, 325 

Rye and Indian milk bread, 325 

Boston, or eastern, brown (rye and Indian) bread, 325 

Wheat, rye and Indian bread, 325 

Indian mush cakes, 325 

Indian flappers, 326 

Indian batter cakes, 326 

Indian muffins, 326 

Indian pudding without eggs, 326 

Boiled Indian pudding, 327 

Baked Indian pudding, 327 

Cornstarch boiled custard, 327 

Cornstarch ice cream, 328 

Cornstarch blanc-mange, 328 

Baked cornstarch pudding, 328 

Boiled cornstarch pudding, 328 

Cornstarch pudding, 328 



26 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Rice, 329 

Puffed rice, 329 

Boiled rice, 329 
For chopsticks, 329 
For spoons, 329 

Parloa's boiled rice, 330 

Cochin China boiled rice, 330 

English boiled rice, 330 

Rice with onions, 331 

Rice puff, 331 

Rice flour (or corn meal) gruel, 331 

Rice milk, 331 

Rice soup, 332 

Rice soup with milk, or terralac, 332 

Rice pudding without eggs, 332 

Boiled rice pudding without milk or eggs, 332 

Boiled rice pudding, 333 

Baked rice pudding, 333 

French plain rice pudding, 333 

French rice pudding, 334 

Moulded rice, 334 

Moulded ground rice, 335 

Rice croquettes, 335 

Rice plum pudding, 335 

Risotto, 335 

Milanese risotto, 336 

Baked rice and cheese, No. 1, 336 

Baked rice and cheese, No. 2, 336 
Buckwheat, 337 

Buckwheat cakes, three methods, 337 

French buckwheat cakes, 337 

Buckwheat porridge, 337 

Fried buckwheat porridge, 338 

Tree-Fruits, Berries and, Melons, 339 

Raw fruits, 340 
Keeping fruit, 340 
Ices and sherbets, 340 

Stewed fruits, 341 
Canning stewed fruit, 341 
Baking and canning fruit, 342 
Double-boiler cooking and canning fruit, 343 
Stewing and canning fruit and fruit juices, 343 
Marmalades and jams, 343 
Strained marmalades and jams, 343 

Preserves, 344 

Preserving fruit, 344 

Preserving fruit in grape juice, 344 

Canning, or bottling, fruit juices, 344 

Jellies, 344 

Fruit comfits, 346 

Fruit-comfit pie, 346 



CONTENTS. 27 

Strawberry, 346 
Strawberry fritters, J4U 

Strawberry pie, 346 

Canned strawberries, 347 

Preserving strawberries, 347 

Canning, or bottling, strawberry juice, 347 

Strawberry jelly, 347 
Blackberry, 347 

Stewing and canning blackberries, 347 

Canning, or bottling, blackberry juice, 347 

Blackberry jelly, 347 
Currant, 347 

Currant water ice, 347 

Currant pudding, or dumpling, 348 

Currant preserve, 348 

Preserving white currants, 348 

Canning currants, 348 

Canning, or bottling, currant juice, 348 

Bottling currant juice, 348 

Currant syrup, 348 

Currant jelly, 349 

French currant jelly, 350 
Lemon, 350 

Lemonade, 350 

Lemon water ice, 351 

Portable lemonade, 351 

Lemon syrup, 351 

Lemon pie, 351 
Raspberry, 351 

Raspberry water-ice, 351 

Raspberry fritters, 351 

Raspberry pie, 351 

Stewing and canning raspberries, 351 

Stewing and canning raspberries and currants, 352 

Canning raspberries, 352 

Canning, or bottling, raspberry juice, 352 

Currant and raspberry syrup, 352 

Raspberry vinegar, 352 

French raspberry vinegar, 352 

Raspberry vinegar syrup, 353 

Raspberry jelly, 353 

Parloa's raspberry jelly, 353 

Raspberry and currant jelly, 353 

Currant and raspberry jelly, 353 
Mulberry, 353 

Mulberry pudding, or dumpling, 353 

Mulberry syrup, 353 
Gooseberry, 353 

Stewed green gooseberries, 353 

Green gooseberry pudding, or dumpling, 354 

Gooseberry pie, 354 

Stewing and canning gooseberries, 354 



28 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cherry, 354 

Dried cherries, 354 

Stewed cherries, 354 

Cherry pudding, or dumpling, 354 

Cherry pie, 354 

Stewing and canning cherries, 354 

Canning cherries, 355 

Preserving cherries, 355 

Cherry preserve, 355 

Another cherry preserve, 355 

Cherry juice, 355 

Cherry syrup, 355 

Brandied cherries, 355 

Another way, 356 

Preserving cherries and currant juice, 356 

Four-fruit jelly, 356 
Barberry, 356 

Barberry jelly, 356 
Plum, 357 

Prunes (dried plums), 357 

Stewed plums, 357 

Plums in Conde fashion, 357 

Fresh-plum pudding, or dumpling, 357 

Plum pie, 357 

Greengage marmalade, 358 

Mirabelle plum marmalade, 358 

Plum crusts, 358 

Preserving plums, 358 

Stewing and canning plums, 358 

Canning greengage plums, 359 

Canning mirabelle plums, 359 

Plum juice, 359 

Greengage comfits, 359 

Brandied plums, 360 
Apricot, 360 

Stewed apricots, 360 

Apricot marmalade, 360 

Apricots in Conde fashion, 361 

Apricot crusts, 361 

Apricot pudding, or dumpling, 361 

Apricot fritters, 361 

Apricot pie, 361 

Canning apricots, 361 

Apricot preserve, 361 

Apricot comfits, 362 

Brandied apricots, 362 
Peach, 362 

Stewed peaches, 362 

Peaches in Conde fashion, 362 

Peach crusts, 362 

Peach fritters, 362 

Peach pie, 362 

Peach preserve, 362 






CONTENTS. 29 

Stewing and canning peaches, 362 

Peach comfits, 363 

Brandied peaches, 363 
Watermelon, 363 
Citron, 363 
Orange, 363 

Orange water-ice, 363 

Orange and lemon syrup, 363 

Orange syrup, 364 

Orangeflower lozenges, 364 

Burnt orange flowers, 364 
Muskmelon, or cantelope, 365 
Grape, 365 

Stewed grapes, 365 

Stewing and canning grapes, 365 

Grape pie, 365 

Grape preserve, 365 

Canning, or bottling, grape juice, 366 

Preserving fruit in grape juice, 366 

Grape jelly, 366 
Avocado, or alligator pear, 367 
Fig, 367 

Fig comfits, 367 
Pear, 367 

Dried pears, 367 

Stewed pears, 367 

Stewed pears with wine, 368 

Pears in German fashion, 368 

Pears in Cond6 fashion, 368 

Pear dumplings, 368 

Pear pie, 369 

Stewing and canning pears, 369 

Pear preserve, 369 

Norman preserve of pears, apples, or the like, 369 

Pear comfits, 369 

Brandied pears, 369 

Burgundv grape and pear preserve, 370 
Cranberry, 370 

Keeping cranberries, 370 

Cranberry sauce, 370 

Cranberry pie, 370 
Lychee, 371 
Blueberry, 371 

Stewing and canning blueberries, 371 
Huckleberry, 371 

Huckleberry pudding, 371 
Quince, 371 

Stewed quinces, 371 

Stewing quinces for canning, 371 

Preserving quinces, 372 

Quince jelly, 372 

French quince jelly, 372 



30 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Apple, 373 

Stewed apples, 373 

Apple marmalade, or apple charlotte, 373 

Apple sauce, 373 

Mounted apple charlotte, 373 

Apple charlotte in merang fashion, 374 

Buttered apples, 374 

Blazing apples, 374 

Apples in Conde fashion, 375 

Marlborough pudding (or pie), 375 

Bird's nest pudding, 375 

Apple and bread pudding, 375 

Boiled apple and bread pudding, 376 

Boiled apple pudding, or dumpling, 376 

French boiled apple pudding, or dumpling, 376 

Another boiled apple pudding, or dumpling, 377 

Apple dumplings, 377 

French apple dumplings, 378 

Apple croquettes, 378 

Apple fritters, 378 

French apple fritters, 378 

Apple pie, 379 

Another apple pie, 379 

English apple pie, 379 

Family apple pie, 379 

Apple and other pies, 379 

Norman preserve of apples, 380 

Apple jelly, 380 

Apple, or crabapple, jelly, 380 

Boiled cider, 381 

Cider apple sauce, 381 

Cider apple jelly, 381 

Cider pear sauce, 381 

Lenten mince pie, 381 

Mock mince pie, 381 
Wild fruits for jellies, 382 
Date, 382 

Persimmon, or date plum, 382 
Olive, 383 

Vegetable Products, 384 

Vegetable gelatine, 384 

Carrageen, Irish moss, kanten, 384 

Carrageen blanc-mange, 384 

Gelatine jellies, 384 

Gelatine jelly with strawberries, 385 

Gelatine jelly with currants, 385 

Gelatine jelly with currants and raspberries, 385 

Gelatine jelly with lemon, 385 

Gelatine jelly with orange, 385 

Gelatine jelly with punch, 386 

Gelatine jelly with kirsch, 386 



C0NTENT8. 31 



Gelatine jelly with rum, 386 
Ribbon gelatine jelly, 386 
Gelatine jellv with a. medlev of fruits, 3S"i 
Edible oils, 387 
Olive oil, 387 
Sesame oil, 388 
Peanut oil, 388 
Cottonseed oil, 388 
Rapeseed oil, 389 
Mustardseed oil, 389 
Other edible vegetable oils, 389 

Almond oil, 389 

Brazilnut oil, 389 

Poppy oil, 389 

Safflower oil, 389 

Sunflower oil, 389 

Teaseed oil, 389 

Walnut oil, 390 

Coconut oil, 390 

Indian butter, 390 

Palm oil, 390 

Palmnut oil, 390 
Sago, 390 
Sago soup, 390 
Sago pudding, 390 
Another sago pudding, 390 
Sago and apple pudding, 391 
Moulded sago, 391 
Moulded sago with fruit, 391 
Tapioca, 391 
Tapioca soup, 391 
Tapioca pudding, 391 
Apple tapioca pudding, 392 
Arrowroot, 392 

Thickening with arrowroot, 392 
Arrowroot gruel, 392 
Arrowroot jelly, 392 
Moulded arrowroot, 392 
Arrowroot blanc-mange, 393 
Arrowroot pudding, 393 
Arrowroot puffs, 393 
Sugar, 394 

Cooking sugar, 394 
Clarified syrup, 394 
Caramel, 395 
Browning, 395 
Cold sweet sauce, 395 
Plain sweet sauce, 395 
Plain sour sauce, 396 
Orange sauce, 396 
Wine sauce, 396 
Spruce beer, 396 



32 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Ginger beer, 396 
Currant wine, 396 
Elderberry wine, 397 
Mead, 397 
Rum sherbet, 398 
Kirsch sherbet, 398 
Roman punch, 398 

SALT, 399 

Brine, 399 



VEGETARIAN DIET. 



Probably many men would, for one reason or another, like 
to try the experiment of breaking away from an accustomed 
meat diet, if they only knew how to select and properly to pre- 
pare suitable vegetable foods. Indeed, the ignorance of the 
subject is so universal and so dense, ihat even a small, in- 
adequate effort to raise the heavy pall cannot but be worth 
while. Many men, for example, imagine all vegetables to be 
alike, requiring no special selection ; and the case of two ladies 
who unsuccessfully tried to live on cake and ice-cream, has 
seriously been cited as an unanswerable argument against any 
vegetable diet. It should be borne in mind that both kinds 
of food, vegetables and flesh, generally contain, each article 
in its own proportion, a muscle-making component or in- 
gredient, together with other components that serve for the 
muscles as fuel does for an engine. As the muscles wear 
away, they need to be replaced by appropriate nourishment; 
but as work is done, the fuel must be supplied. The cake and 
ice-cream supply satisfactory fuel, but lack enough of the 
muscle-building material to replace the muscular particles 
that have been worn away. The different kinds of flesh of 
fishes and land animals used as food contain a much larger 
proportion of the muscle-building element and of fat than is 
needful, and consequently a man who eats much of that food 
craves alcohol and sweet, or starchy, food, such as cake and 
ice-cream, in order to restore the equilibrium. A proper vege- 
tarian diet, on the other hand, is made up in good part of 
vegetables that have a smaller proportion of the muscle- 
building element, creating, therefore, less craving, or none, for 
sweetmeats or alcohol. 

It is easy then to understand, and important not to for- 
get, that meat-eaters and vegetarians do not desire and need 
the same vegetables ; meat-eaters wish for those that will help 
to counterbalance the excessive amount of the muscle-building 
element and of fat in meat; vegetarians principally seek at 
least some vegetables that are rich in the muscle-building ele- 
ment; and that consequently take the place of meat. It is, in 
fact, really surprising that present-day experimenters with a 
vegetable diet, breaking away from their own and their fami- 
lies' long established meat-eating habits, have succeeded so 



34 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

well, considering the universal crass ignorance of the subject; 
for the vegetable food preferred by the meat-eaters and most 
frequently seen at their tables is generally comparatively poor 
in muscle-building material, since they instinctively desire 
thereby to counterbalance the excess of that material, and the 
deficiency of sugar or starch, supplied by their meat and fish. 
So, a vegetarian seldom finds there what he particularly needs, 
vegetables comparatively rich in muscle-making matter and 
not overburdened with starch or sugar; and his appetite is, 
therefore, apt to be as unsatisfied as the crane's who was in- 
vited to dine with the fox, and found the shallow soup plate 
quite impossible for his beak. The incompatibility of the two 
methods can hardly be too strongly insisted upon. For it 
seems to have been (especially among meat-eaters) well nigh 
incomprehensible, or inconceivable, and has doubtless conse- 
quently led to the failure, or abandonment, of any vegetarian 
experiments. 

The stomach discriminates nicely in such matters, like a 
skilful chemist, and craves what is needed; just as, in a more 
general way, it indicates its need of food and drink by the un- 
mistakable sensations of hunger and thirst. The special crav- 
ings, however, are more liable to be misunderstood or sup- 
pressed, according to fixed habits, or excessive and confirmed 
tastes, or mistaken intellectual ideas about diet, or rooted 
prejudices against unaccustomed articles of food. Conse- 
quently, a persistent indulgence in a great excess of muscle- 
building food, or of sweets or of fatty nourishment some- 
times brings on serious, even, perhaps, mortal diseases, such 
as, for example, gout, scurvy, and diabetes; besides doubtless 
making one less able to resist the attacks of many other 
diseases, a number of them mortal. 

PRACTICABILITY OF VEGETARIANISM. 

Evidently then, it is essentially a matter of chemistry 
whether vegetarian food can satisfactorily answer the needs 
of the body, and maintain its composition, its strength and 
health. Let us first consider what are the chemical require- 
ments of the body and then whether such food can readily 
supply them. 

An approxinate knowledge of what amount of each of the 
principal nourishing components of food is needed by the 



PRACTICABILITY. 35 

body can be gained from the numerous investigations that have 
been made as to the chemical composition of the human body 
and of the various diets actually consumed by a large number 
of different classes of men. 

Those principal components of food and of the human 
body, are (besides water — highly important, yet in our p 
discussion negligible) protein, fats, carbohydrates, and ash. 
Protein is the name given (as indicating the supposed first, 
or chief, element of the muscles) to the nitrogenous com- 
pounds, including proteids and extractives. The proteids are 
sub-divided into albuminoids (such as the whites of eggs, the 
lean of meat, the curd of milk, and the gluten of wheat) and 
gelatinoids (such as the collagen of the tendons and skin, and 
the ossein of bone.) The proteids are chiefly useful as muscle 
and bone makers. The extractives are the principal organic 
ingredients of meat-extracts, beef-tea, soup-stock, consomme 
and the like; and are believed neither to build tissues nor to 
supply energy, but to act merely as stimulants and appetizers. 
The fats, both solid and oil. in the food, serve as fuel for the 
engine-like muscles, and for keeping the body warm; and are, 
as fuel, about 2% times as effective, weight for weight, as 
either protein or carbohydrates (more precisely, 8.9 to 4). 
The carbohydrates include starch, sugar and cellulose, or the 
fibre of plants. They, too, serve as fuel, supplying energy. 
They are often transformed into fat in the body. The ash 
is what remains after burning the body, and is found chiefly 
in the teeth and bones, but it is not wholly absent from the 
other tissues and the fluids. 

The average human body contains about: 

18 per cent, of protein ~) organic compounds, 34 

16 per cent, of fats > per cent., or about one- 

1 per cent, of carbohydrates ) third. 

6 per cent, of ash ~) mineral matters, 66 per 

60 per cent, of water > cent., or about two- 

) thirds. 

100 

It is plainly, in the main, a chemical question, what should 
be eaten to form our body and to replace its waste, and it is 
not merely a matter of gratifying the appetite, or the palate ; 
though one's own instinctive tastes acquired through the ex- 
perience, or innumerable experiments, of countless generations 



36 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

may have always been in some degree a useful guide under 
natural healthy conditions. Yet instincts sometimes become 
perverted, especially in a highly artificial, pampered, so- 
called civilized, mode of life. In prescribing for another, an 
insufficient observance of the chemical principles sometimes 
leaves even physicians of high reputation in ignorance of what 
would be suitable food for the healthy man or the diseased; 
or for the convalescent who wishes to rebuild diminished 
muscles, without at the same time overloading a weakened 
stomach with a great excess of protein, the very excess that, 
in many cases, has been at the bottom of the illness. Not 
perceiving the real cause of the disease, they are imperfectly 
skilled in restoring permanent health. 

THE VARIOUS DIETS OF MANKIND. 

Such ignorance and error may easily be occasioned by the 
fact that, however satisfactory hitherto published chemical 
analyses of vegetable foods may be for economic or other pur- 
poses, their dietetic indications have been much obscured, and 
their usefulness as guides to the selection of suitable nourish- 
ment has been greatly diminished or altogether nullified, if 
not made downright misleading, by always including the 
water, and in some cases also the refuse that is removed be- 
fore eating. Thereby the comparative proportion of the dry 
nutrients (that is, with water left out of account) is not readily 
seen; and if the percentage of water is large, the impression 
is given that the food has little nourishing value. Of course, 
it may be little compared with a unit of weight; but a greater 
weight may be eaten without fear of taking more water than 
we should otherwise have to drink, or of failing fully to re- 
ceive the indicated proportion of each of the other nutrients; 
for example, much protein, or much carbohydrate, according 
to the chemical character of the special kind of food. In com- 
paring the nutritive character of different kinds of food, leav- 
ing out of account their bulk and cost, it seems, therefore, de- 
cidedly advisable to disregard the amount of water they con- 
tain; for, the less water they hold, it is only needful to drink 
so much the more with them, and the more water they have, 
the less it is necessary to drink. 

Again, in the published composition of the diets actually 
used by different men or classes of men, the amounts of 



VARIOUS DIETS. 37 

only the protein, fat, and carbohydrates have often been given; 
but, for comparison with the foods in our own table and dia- 
gram, it is desirable to add the ash also. Let us, then, as- 
sume the ash in those diets to be five per cent, of the dry 
nutrients, which is about the average of the ash of the 194 
different kinds of food to be given in our food table. 

We may now in tabular form and in diagrams compare 
different diets that have been investigated, and different ar- 
ticles of food, according to their principal ingredients. 

TABLE OF DIETS. 

DRY NUTRIENTS ONLY. 
Based on Atwater's Bulletin 142, 1902. 

ACTIVE WORK. Total Percentage 

Weight Carbo- 

2 Football teams, Connecticut Ob. Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

and California 4.~>.1 17.7 27.7 49.6 5.0? 

3 Bicyclists, New York 38.0 17.3 17.3 (50.4 5.0? 

5 Swedish mechanics 37.6 17.7 10.3 67.0 5.0? 

1 Prussian machinist 34.5 14.2 11.6 69.2 5.0? 

7 Rowing clubs, New England 28.6 19.1 21.8 54.1 5.0? 

Ordinary Work. 

2 U. S. laborers' families, com- 

fortable 29.7 14.2 17.5 63.3 5.0? 

Russian peasants 28.3 16.3 4.2 74.5 5.0? 

6 Swedish mechanics 27.3 17.3 10.2 67.5 5.0? 

10 Eastern U. S. farmers' fami- 

lies 25.8 13.3 17.8 63.9 5.0 ? 

14 U. S. mechanics' families ... 24.3 14.9 21.8 58.3 5.0? 
12 Laborers' families, large 

cities 20.8 17.1 19.6 58.3 5.0? 

Professional Men. 

15 College clubs, U. S 26.3 14.2 19.7 61.1 5.0? 

14 Lawyers, teachers, etc., U. S. 24.2 15.2 18.2 61.6 5.0? 

1 Japanese professor 20.8 20.9 3.5 70.6 5.0? 

2 German physicians 20.5 22.5 16.3 56.2 5.0? 

Little or No Exercise Men. 
5 Germans in respiration ap- 
paratus 18.9 23.7 14.9 56.4 5.0 ? 

11 Americans in respiration 

calorimeter 18.4 21.4 15.3 58.3 5.0? 



38 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Total 
Weight 

Destitute Circumstances. Oz. Protein 

11 Poor families, New York City 22.1 14.8 

5 Italian mechanics 18.9 14.2 

2 Laborers' families, Pitts- 
burgh, Pa 17.9 15.7 

1 German laborer's family . . . 13.8 13.3 

Miscellaneous. 

1 Chinese farm laborer, Cali- 
fornia 32.6 15.5 

1 Chinese laundryman, Cal- 

fornia 28.9 16.5 

4 Mexican families, New Mexico 28.9 11.5 
U. S. army ration, peace 27.3 15.5 

39 Negro families, Alabama and 

Virginia 24.6 12.2 

10 Russian Jews, Chicago 24.4 19.8 

German army ration, peace . 23.5 17.1 

5 French Canadian families, 

Chicago 23.1 18.0 

4 Italian families, Chicago . . . 22.5 16.2 
8 Bohemian families, Chicago . 21.4 19.0 
1 Chinese dentist, California . 19.2 21.1 
1 Java village, Columbian Ex- 
position, Chicago 12.6 18.5 

Based on Pavy (Encyclopaedia Britannica, 

Active labor 26.7 16.7 

Hard labor, prison 26.4 15.4 

"Penal diet" 26.2 14.5 

Industrial employment 24.2 15.3 

French infantry 23.8 17.2 

Austrian infantry 22.1 16.8 

Punitive, Insufficient. 

Prisoners, 7 to 21 days 17.8 13.0 

" Bare existence diet." prison- 
ers, 7 days 13.0 13.1 

Punishment diet, prisoners, 3 

days 10.1 12.9 

Proposed Standard Diets. 
Voit: 

Man at hard work 25.8 16.8 

Man at moderate work 25.0 16.6 



Percentage 

Carbo- 
Fat hydrates 


Ash 


15.2 


65.0 


5.0? 


7.1 


73.7 


5.0? 


18.7 


60.6 


5.0? 


8.2 


73.5 


5.0? 



10.3 



).2 



5.0? 



9.3 69.2 5.0? 

8.7 74.8 5.0? 

20.8 58.7 5.0? 

20.5 62.3 5.0? 

14.9 60.3 5.0? 

5.8 72.1 5.0? 



24.2 


52.8 


5.0? 


17.4 


61.4 


5.0? 


16.6 


59.4 


5.0? 


20.8 


53.1 


5.0? 


5.3 


71.2 


5.0? 


Dietetics," 1876). 


11.8 


64.8 


6.7 


5.9 


71.3 


7.4 


6.9 


75.8 


3.7 


6.5 


71.5 


6.7 


5.3 


72.5 


5.0? 


5.0 


73.2 


5.0? 



3.2 78.8 5.0? 
3.5 78.4 5.0? 
2.5 81.2 3.6 



13.7 
7.9 



61.5 
70.5 



5.0? 
5.0? 



DRY NUTRIENTS OF DIETS: 



AT WATER : T0 TAL WEIGHT 



LRY WORK: 




VARIOUS DIETS. 39 

Total Percentage 

. Weight Carbo- 

Atwater: Oz. Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

Man, very hard muscular work 44.3 13.9 15.8 65.3 5.0? 

Man, hard muscular work 33.6 15.8 15.4 63.8 5.0? 

Man, moderately active, muscu- 
lar work 27.5 16.0 15.4 63.6 5.0 ? 

Man, light to moderately mus- 
cular work 24.7 16.0 15.4 63.6 5.0 ? 

Man at sedentary, or woman at 

moderately active work ... 21.8 16.2 15.4 63.4 5.0? 
Woman at light to moderate 
work, or man with no mus- 
cular work 19.8 16.0 15.3 63.7 5.0? 

Means of the Foregoing Actual Diets. 
33 Atwater (excluding the 

standard diets) 25.0 16.7 15.3 63.0 5.0? 

G Paw (excluding the puni- 
tive diets) 24.9 16.0 6.8 71.5 5.7 

All 39 diets 25.0 16.6 14.0 64.3 5.1 

The diet-diagram makes it clear at a glance, that the main 
difference between the diets, according to the severity of the 
work, is not in the amount of protein or muscle-building ma- 
terial, nor yet in the proportions of fat or carbohydrates, but 
in the whole quantity of food consumed; the larger the 
quantity, the harder the work accomplished. The limits of 
variation in the proportion of each ingredient are not so very 
wide, notwithstanding the fact that some of the diets, such 
as the athletic ones, and the respiration-apparatus ones, are 
evidently based on mere theory or fancy, and are visionary 
and artificial in character. The more natural diets derived 
from the habitual practice and instinctive appetites of genera- 
tions, especially of generations who have remained for hun- 
dreds of years in one part of the world, differ less in character 
from the mean. 

The European diets of Pavy have on the average almost 
precisely the same proportion of protein as Atwater's diets, 
chiefly American; but American diets have a larger propor- 
tion of fat, and consequently less of carbohydrates. It is to 
be seen from the table (excluding three confessedly punitive 
diets, unsatisfactory for a permanent plan) that the amount of 
protein varies from 13.3 per cent., to 23.7; the fat from 3.5 per 
cent., to 27.7 per cent., and the carbohydrates from 52.8 per 



40 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

cent., to 75.8 per cent, (penal), or 74.8 per cent. In the 
same diets, the proportion of the fat to the carbohydrates, in 
percentages of the sum of both, averages 17.9 per cent, to 
82.1; or, in the six diets from Pavy, 8.6 to 91.4; and in the 
33 diets from Atwater, 19.5 to 80.5; or 1 to 4.6 (all 39); 
1 to 10.6 (Pavy); and 1 to 4.1 (Atwater). The native 
American diets in the United States, as given by Atwater in 
the same table, have the average percentages of fat and 
carbohydrates in their sum, 24.6 and 75.4, or 1 to 3.1 ; but the 
foreigners' diets given by him have on the average for the 
like proportions 15.9 per cent, and 84.1, or 1 to 5.3. Clearly, 
then, in the United States, the proportion of fat is larger than 
elsewhere; and the fact is still more evident, if we leave out 
of reckoning the foreigners who live in America. If the diet 
of these apparently somewhat Americanized foreigners be 
combined with Pavy's European diets, the proportion of fat to 
carbohydrates averages 1 to 7.8, against the 1 to 3.1 of the 
thorough-going, or native, American diets. It appears, then, 
that these American diets have about two and a half times 
as much fat as foreign diets have. In the standard diets 
recommended by Atwater, he left the proportion of fat to 
carbohydrates optional, if only the fuel value of their sum 
should be equal to a certain amount. In our table and dia- 
gram, however, for greater definiteness, the proportion is fixed 
at about 1 to 4, the mean of all the actual diets given by 
Atwater, and perhaps a satisfactory proportion on the whole, 
though somewhat less fatty than the thorough-going, or native, 
American average. 

It may be seen in the table and diagram that the Chinese 
farm laborer and laundryman are, as to quantity of food, at 
the very head of all the laboring men, and that the proportions 
of the components of their food are practically ideal. This 
is a sufficient answer to the claims, sometimes set up by 
demagogues, that Chinese immigration would tend to lower 
the standard of living among our laboring men, that our 
laborers could not compete with Chinese low diet, and the like. 

Notwithstanding there is considerable variation in the pro- 
portion of the components of the diets, it is plain that the 
limits to the variation are not extremely wide. The protein 
is never less than about 3 per cent, (of the dry nutrients) be- 
low the mean, nor ever 12 per cent., above. Even the propor- 
tion of fat to carbohydrates (which has sometimes been 



ADJUSTING DIETS. 41 

reckoned indifferent, provided the two together have a cer- 
tain fuel value) does not vary beyond certain narrow limits, 
not beyond about a dozen per cent., or one-eighth, of the dry 
nutrients from the mean. The narrowness of these limits 
shows that the mean proportions of the different components 
in all the diets, are on the whole, roughly speaking, the best 
for the natural cravings, and therefore are doubtless the most 
suitable for the human health under average conditions of age, 
bodily state, labor, exercise and climate. 

Variations from the mean composition of the diet may be 
made desirable by the age or bodily condition. For example, 
a young child, or an emaciated convalescent adult, or an athlete 
increasing his muscle, or a woman having to supply food for 
a child unborn or born may have need of an unusually large 
proportion of nitrogenous or muscle-building material. Again, 
it has been supposed that hard labor or exercise would require 
either (as Liebig, and apparently Voit, maintained) an un- 
usually large amount of nitrogenous material ; or, as Atwater 
urges, an unusually large proportion of carbohydrates or fat. 
He accordingly recommends for very hard muscular work a 
diet with only 13.9 per cent, of protein in all the dry nutrients. 
Nevertheless, for hard muscular work, moderately active, light 
to moderate, sedentary, and no muscular work, the five diets 
he recommends have practically the same proportion of 
protein, about 16 per cent, of all the dry nutrients, the diets 
virtually differing only in the total quantity of food. It seems 
that this is the more correct principle; for the wear and tear 
of the muscles, must be proportioned to the amount of using 
them, and this to the amount of fuel consumed. If that be so, 
the proportion of the different constituents of the food should 
be the same with much work or with little; but much work 
would simply require a larger quantity of food of the same 
composition. It is sometimes thought that a warm tropical 
climate properly requires a change of diet; particularly, it is 
often urged, a smaller quantity of meat — that is, of strongly 
nitrogenous and of strongly fatty food (for most fish and meat 
contain a larger proportion of fat.) The large supply of fat 
and the addition of carbohydrates craved and eaten to counter- 
balance the great excess of nitrogenous matter and of fat, 
create far more bodily warmth than is comfortable in a tropical 
dimate or summer season. As the total fuel should be less 
in warm weather, the protein would become a slightly larger 



42 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

share of the whole amount of nutrients. In the arctic re- 
gions or winter season, on the other hand, a larger proportion 
of fuel, particularly of fat is desirable. 

The proportion, then, of the mean of all the 39 diets may 
be taken as satisfactory for adults, with probably a little more 
protein for children, and for adults needing to create addi- 
tional new muscle; and with a little less fat (that is, generally 
less meat and fish, if any, yet, on the whole, a larger propor- 
tion of protein) for hot weather, or tropical climates, or a little 
more fat for cold weather or arctic climates ; and with a larger 
amount of food of average composition for harder muscular 
work, or for a heavier body. It may be argued that the num- 
ber of investigated diets (39) is too small for determining a 
mean average of the greatest value. But it is seen that the 
number is so large that additional diets varying decidedly 
from the mean would yield a new mean but slightly different ; 
and it is clear from the somewhat wide variations in the 39, 
that the body takes little account of small departures from the 
mean proportions of the different constituents of the food. In- 
deed, there is considerable variation in the composition of 
vegetables of the same name. What is, then, no more, to be 
sure, than a roughly precise standard is accurate enough; and 
the best to take is probably the mean of the whole 39 diets. 
That mean diet is composed, for dry nutrients, of approxi- 
mately one-sixth protein, one-seventh fat, two-thirds carbohy- 
drates, and one-twentieth ash. 

If such a diet of various articles be provided, the natural 
cravings may in general be trusted to adjust properly the 
quantity of food according to the varying severity of muscular 
work, and slightly to re-adjust the proportion of the different 
elements, according to age or bodily condition. To be sure, 
the indulgence of pernicious habits of eating or of hygiene, 
habits perhaps fostered by fashion, or by the desire to imitate 
others, who are fancied to be worthy of imitation, or by a love 
of display, may give rise to unwholesome cravings ; but such 
habits are apt to yield before abundant customary exercise and 
abstinence from mere nerve-ticklers, such as vigor-sapping, 
life-shortening, innutritious stimulants and narcotics. 

As to the quantity of food, the diet-tables hitherto given 
are somewhat unsatisfactory, in that they indicate neither the 
weight of the eaters nor, in some cases, the sex, nor in what 
degree adults or children are in question. Atwater remarks 






CRAVINGS AS GUIDE. 13 

that women require only four-fifths as much as men under 
similar conditions, and that a child needs from three to nine- 
tenths as much as a man, according to age, up to sixteen years 
old. Such differences perhaps correspond mainly to the differ- 
ences in weight of the individuals, for it appears almost 
obvious that, aside from the greater amount of external work 
done, a large body must require more muscular work to move 
itself about, and to keep up its own internal blood circula- 
tion, breathing, peristaltic movements, temperature, and the 
like. A diet-table would, therefore, probably be better, if 
given in the form of the quantity of food consumed for each 
hundred pounds of weight of the individual ; but as the in- 
formation is at present lacking for a table of that kind, we 
must content ourselves, as well as we can, with the present 
form. 

Nevertheless, imperfect and rough as the information is. it 
may yet serve a useful purpose ; for the indication of the 
proper proportions of the components of the food, though per- 
haps not altogether perfect, is probably sufficiently exact, con- 
sidering the elasticity and readiness of the body to accom- 
modate itself to varying circumstances. The natural craving 
may perhaps serve as a guide, if the adjustment of the propor- 
tions appears to be imperfect. Observed symptoms may also 
to some extent be a guide. If, for example, small sores or 
pimples break out. it may be suspected that the diet is of ill- 
balanced composition, with too large (or too small) a propor- 
tion of fat or carbohydrates. If some article of food leaves a 
rather persistent taste in the mouth, it may be supposed that 
the article has contributed too large a share of carbohydrates, 
or of protein, and the effect may be counteracted, and the taste 
overcome, by eating something of an opposite or counter- 
balancing character. For instance, if peanuts with their large 
percentage of protein, leave a long lasting taste in the mouth, 
it may be supposed that other food has already supplied so 
much protein that an excess exists, and some sweet article (say, 
fruit) may successfully be eaten to remove the taste by re- 
storing the balance. As to the proper quantity of food, the 
appetite is a pretty good guide. Franklin advised that we 
should rise from a meal with an appetite ; but he could hardly 
be right, if he meant hunger, or anything more than the ab- 
sence of an overfull feeling, or than the capacity or slight in- 
clination, to indulge further a mere tickling of the palate. 



44 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



COMPOSITION OF FOODS. 

Having now seen what nourishing elements are needed in 
our diet, let us proceed to a consideration of the proportion 
of those elements to be found in the different articles of food. 
For that purpose, the following table of foods with its diagram, 
has been prepared, giving 194 chemical analyses of the com- 
position of about 180 wholly distinct articles of food, leaving 
out of account the water they contain. The table was ori- 
ginally computed and re-arranged from one by Atwater in his 
" Farmer's Bulletin, No. 142 " of the United States Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, pp. 16-18 (1902) ; and the diagram was 
drawn to correspond, and compactly, yet sufficiently, illustrates 
the subject. Now, however, fifty- four other food anlyses have 
been added, here and there, to the table, having been computed 
from analyses given by Wiley in his more recent valuable 
work on " Foods and Their Adulterations," and from other 
sources noted in the table. These additions, however, occasion 
but slight alterations in the means of the different groups. 



TABLE OF FOODS. 

Percentage op Dry Nutrients 

•PYinrxj Carbo- 

1UUD!S - Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

Cod, dressed 91.7 1.7 ... 6.6 

Perch, yellow, dressed 88.9 4.9 ... 6.2 

Chicken, broilers 85.9 9.4 ... 4.7 

Lobsters 77.7 9.2 2.6 10.5 

Halibut 74.3 21.3 ... 4.4 

Shad-roe 72.6 13.2 9.0 5.2 

Crabs 72.5 8.3 5.5 13.7 

Veal, leg cutlets 70.3 26.2 ... 3.5 

Veal, forequarters 69.3 27.5 ... 3.2 

Veal, hindquarters 68.6 28.0 ... 3.4 

Mackerel, whole 67.6 27.8 ... 4.6 

Veal, leg 63.8 32.5 ... 3.7 

Shad, whole 63.1 32.2 ... 4.7 

Beef, dried, salted, smoked 62.6 16.3 . . . 21.1 

Beef, shank, fore 61.8 35.3 ... 2.9 

Beef, shoulder and clod 60.5 36.2 ... 3.3 

Salmon, canned 59.7 33.2 7.1 

Beef, round 57.9 39.0 ... 3.1 

Sardines 57.7 29.4 . . . 12.9 






45 



Protein 

Pork, tenderloin 57.5 

Veal, breast 56.6 

Hen's eggs 56.2 

Clams 55.2 

Beef, corned, canned 53.7 

Beef, neck 53.5 

Lamb, leg, hind 52.3 

Beef, rib, rolls 52.3 

Beef, canned, boiled 51.7 

Oysters, " solids " 51.3 

Fowls 51.3 

Beef, porterhouse steak 50.5 

Beef, chuck ribs 49.5 

Mutton, leg, hind 49.4 

Beef, sirloin steak 49.2 

Natto (Abel) 48.9 

Beef, loin 46.7 

Beef, flank 46.3 

Turkey 45.6 

Fresh tofu (Abel) 45.5 

Beef, hindquarter 44.8 

Beef, forequarter 44.4 

Lamb, breast 43.6 

Roquefort cheese ( Wiley ) 40.0 

Beef, rump 39.8 

Cheese, full cream 39.4 

Beef, ribs 38.8 

Cheese, cheddar 38.2 

Soy bean, dried (Abel) 38.1 

Limburger cheese (Wiley) 37.6 

Mutton, hindquarter 36.6 

Skim milk 35.8 

Pork, loin chops 34.9 

Beef tongue, pickled 33.6 

Buttermilk 33.3 

Mutton, forequarter 32.8 

Mutton, loin chops 31.8 

Goose 30.5 

Asparagus (Wiley) 30.3 

Swiss miso (Abel) 30.2 

Pine nut, Pinus sabiniana( Wiley) 29.6 

Mushroom 29.4 

Butternut 29.2 

Black walnut 28.5 

Peanut, dried 28.4 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


39.5 




3.0 


40.4 




3.0 


39.9 




3.9 


5.7 


27.1 


12.0 


38.2 




8.1 


42.1 




4.4 


44.7 




3.0 


45.3 




2.4 


45.7 




2.6 


11.1 


28.2 


9.4 


46.1 




2.6 


47.4 




2.1 


47.9 




2.6 


48.0 




2.6 


48.1 




2.7 


27.9 


19.5 


3.7 


50.7 




2.6 


51.8 




1.9 


52.1 




2.3 


30.9 


19.1 


4.5 


53.2 




2.0 


53.5 




2.1 


54.1 




2.3 


48.5 


3.0 


8.5 


58.2 




2.0 


51.2 


3.6 


5.8 


59.2 




2.0 


50.7 


5.6 


5.5 


18.8 


37.8 


5.3 


53.2 


4.7 


4.5 


61.5 




1.9 


3.1 


53.7 


7.4 


63.0 




2.1 


54.2 




12.2 


5.6 


53.3 


7.8 


65.3 




1.9 


66.6 




1.0 


67.9 




1.6 


4.1 


54.5 


11.1 


15.9 


24.0 


29.9 


56.6 


8.8 


5.0 


3.4 


57.1 


10.1 


63.9 


3.8 


3.1 


57.7 


11.8 


2.0 


42.4 


27.0 


2.2 



46 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Protein 

Lentil, dried (Abel) 28.1 

Pork, shoulder 28.3 

Cow pea, shelled (Abel) 27.6 

Pea, shelled 27.6 

Spinach 27.3 

Pea, dried 27.2 

Mutton, flank 26.9 

Navy bean, dried 25.7 

Whole milk 25.4 

Almonds, European (Wiley) 25.0 

Cow pea, dried 24.6 

Green pea, canned 24.5 

Beechnut, European (Wiley) 23.9 

Frijol, dried (Abel) 23.7 

Pistachio nut (Wiley) 23.3 

Kidney bean, shelled (Abel) 22.9 

Beechnut, American (Wiley) 22.8 

Soy No. 1 (Abel), unstated 10.5 

per cent 22.7 

Soy No. 2 (Abel), unstated 11.3 

per cent 22.6 

Cocoa, powdered 22.6 

Lima bean, shelled 22.5 

Asparagus bean, whole pods (Abel) 22.4 

Lettuce 22.2 

Beans, baked, canned 22.2 

Chocolate (Payen in Encyclopaedia 

Britannica ) 22.2 

Almond ( Calif ornian) 22.0 

String-bean (Abel) 21.3 

Celery 20.4 

Red miso (Abel) 20.3 

Lima bean, dried (Abel) 20.3 

Tomato, canned 20.0 

Cabbage 19.2 

Sugar pea, or string-pea (Abel) . . 18.7 
Banana (Encycl. Brit., 9th ed.).. 18.5 

Green corn, fresh (Wiley) 18.5 

Oat breakfast food 18.1 

Brazil nut 18.0 

Cucumber 17.9 

English walnut 16.9 

Oat flour, mean of a number 

(Wiley) 16.8 

Filbert 16.3 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


1.1 


64.6 


6.2 


70.1 


0.0 


1.6 


1.7 


66.6 


4.1 


2.0 


66.5 


3.9 


3.9 


41.5 


27.3 


1.1 


68.5 


3.2 


71.9 


0.0 


1.2 


2.1 


68.2 


.4.0 


30.8 


38.4 


5.4 


56.4 


15.3 


3.3 


1.6 


69.9 


3.9 


1.4 


66.6 


7.5 


46.6 


25.2 


4.3 


1.4 


70.4 


4.5 


56.4 


17.0 


3.3 


1.4 


70.8 


4.9 


59.8 


13.7 


3.7 




13.9 


52.9 




12.5 


53.6 


30.3 


39.5 


7.6 


2.2 


69.9 


5.4 


2.5 


69.1 


6.0 


4.4 


55.6 


17.8. 


8.0 


63.0 


6.8 


57.8 


15.6 


4.4 


57.7 


18.2 


2.1 


2.8 


68.5 


7.4 


2.3 


59.1 


18.2 


v 


54.5 


25.2 


1.6 


73.5 


4.6 


3.3 


66.7 


10.0 


1.7 


66.8 


12.3 


2.2 


75.3 


3.8 


2.4 


76.1 


3.0 


2.2 


76.7 


2.6 


7.9 


71.7 


2.3 


70.5 


7.3 


4.2 


5.1 


66.7 


10.3 


65.0 


16.6 


1.5 


8.1 


73.2 


1.9 


67.9 


13.4 


2.4 



17 



Protein 

Eggplant ( Wiley ) 16.2 

Radish, edible portion, doubtful 

(Wiley) 15.9 

Hickory nut 15.9 

Wheat Hour, low grade 15.9 

Tomato 15.8 

Okra (Wiley) 15.8 

Whole wheat bread l-">.7 

Entire wheat flour 15.6 

Oats, hulled, mean of 17'.) analyses 

(Wiley I "... 15.4 

Wild rice (Woods & Snyder) .... 15.2 

Pifion nut, Pinus edulia 15.1 

Graham flour 15.0 

Succotash, canned 14.9 

Macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli and 

Italian pastes 14.9 

Chocolate 14.7 

Chickpea, dried (Abel) 14.(1 

White bread 14.2 

Rye bread 14.0 

Barley, whole grain (Woods & 

Snyder) L3.9 

Graham bread 13.9 

Pumpkin ( Wiley ) 13.8 

Rye, mean of many hundred 

analyses ( Wiley ) 13.7 

Wheat, average of all kinds 

(Wiley) 13.7 

Wheat, breakfast food 13.4 

Kafir corn meal ( Woods & Snyder ) 13.3 

Beet 13.0 

Onion 12.6 

Green corn 12.6 

Turnip 12.3 

Squash 12.0 

Condensed milk 12.0 

Oyster crackers 11.9 

Rhubarb 11.7 

Green corn, canned 11.7 

White miso 11.6 

Barley, flaked, steam - cooked 

(Woods & Snyder) 11.6 

Pecan, polished 11.5 

Chestnut, fresh 11.3 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


4.4 


72.3 


7.1 


4.9 


70.7 


8.5 


70.1 


11.8 


2.2 


2.2 


80.9 


1.0 


7.0 


68.4 


s.s 


3.2 


75.1 


5.9 


l.o 


80.7 


2.1 


2.1 


81.2 


1.1 


8.7 


73.6 


2.3 


1.0 


82.0 


1.8 


til.l 


17.8 


3.0 


2..-> 


80.5 


2.0 


4.2 


77.2 


3.7 


1.0 


82.6 


1.5 


.-> 1 .8 


31.2 


2.3 


7.8 


74.3 


3.3 


2.0 


82.1 


1.7 


0.9 


82.8 


2.3 


2.0 


81.4 


2.7 


2.8 


81.0 


2.3 


1.8 


74.3 


10.1 


1.7 


82.5 


2.1 


2.0 


82.3 


2.0 


2.0 


83.2 


1.4 


0.6 


83.6 


2.5 


1.0 


77.0 


9.0 


2.7 


80.2 


4.5 


4.5 


80.1 


2.8 


1.4 


78.1 


8.2 


3.4 


77.7 


6.9 


11.3 


74.0 


2.7 


11.0 


74.1 


3.0 


11.8 


64.7 


11.8 


5.1 


79.5 


3.7 


1 


75.0 


13.4 


0.9 


86.5 


1.0 


73.3 


13.7 


1.5 


9.7 


76.6 


2.4 



48 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Protein 

Chestnut, dried 11.3 

Maize, typical, or average ( Wiley ) 11.2 
Buckwheat, coarse flour (Wiley) 11.0 

Raspberry (Wiley) 10.7 

Corumeal 10.5 

Soda crackers 10.4 

Cream crackers 10.4 

Potato 10.3 

Carrot (Wiley) 10.0 

Strawberry 9.9 

Buckwheat, fine flour (Wiley) . . 9.9 

Parsnip 9.6 

Brown bread 9.6 

Cream 9.6 

Barley, pearled (Woods & Snyder) 9.6 

Blackberry (Wiley) 9.5 

Lemon 9.3 

Rice 9.1 

Acorn (Wiley ) 8.4 

Maize flour, degerminated (Wiley) 8.2 

Cake 7.9 

Rye flour 7.8 

Buckwheat flour 7.4 

Raspberry 7.1 

Carob bean, St. John's bread, 

dried (Abel) 7.0 

Jerusalem -artichoke (Wiley, Ben- 
rend) 6.9 

Pinenut, Pin us monophylla ( Wiley ) 6.8 

Apricot 6.7 

Cocoanut 6.6 

Watermelon 6.5 

Cocoanut, prepared 6.5 

Orange 6.3 

Muskmelon 5.8 

Grape 5.8 

Sweet potato 5.7 

Alligator pear, avocado (Wiley) . 5.3 

Fig 5.3 

Pear 3.6 

Cranberry (Wiley) 3.6 

Lychee (Wiley) 3.5 

Huckleberry (Wiley) 3.3 

Raisin 3.0 

Apple 2.6 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


7.4 


78.9 


2.4 


4.7 


82.4 


1.7 


2.7 


84.6 


1.7 


6.3 


79.2 


3.8 


2.2 


86.2 


1.1 


9.7 


77.7 


2.2 


13.0 


74.8 


1.8 


0.6 


84.5 


4.6 


3.7 


77.4 


8.9 


6.6 


76.9 


6.6 


1.8 


86.2 


2.1 


2.9 


79.4 


8.1 


3.2 


83.5 


3.7 


71.2 


17.3 


1.9 


1.2 


87.9 


1.3 


7.3 


79.6 


3.6 


6.7 


78.7 


5.3 


0.3 


90.1 


0.5 


39.0 


50.0 


2.6 


1.5 


89.6 


0.7 


11.2 


79.0 


1.9 


1.0 


90.4 


0.8 


1.4 


90.2 


1.0 




88.7 


4.2 


1.5 


88.6 


2.9 


0.8 


87.1 


5.2 


63.1 


27.2 


2.9 


1.4 


88.5 


3.4 


58.9 


32.5 


2.0 


3.2 


87.1 


3.2 


59.5 


32.6 


1.4 


1.0 


88.5 


4.2 




88.5 


5.7 


7.1 


84.7 


2.4 


2.4 


88.3 


3.6 


54.0 


36.0 


4.7 


0.4 


91.4 


2.9 


2.9 


89.7 


3.8 


5.4 


89.2 


1.8 


0.4 


94.5 


1.8 


3.3 


91.7 


1.7 


3.9 


89.1 


4.0 


2.6 


92.3 


2.5 



FOODS. 49 

Carbo- 
Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

Date 2.5 3.3 92.6 1.6 

Persimmon 2.4 2.1 92.9 2.6 

Apple, dried 2.2 3.1 91.9 2.8 

Butter 1.1 95.5 ... 3.4 

Tapioca 0.5 0.1 99.3 0.1 

Starch ... 100.0 

Means. 
58 Animal foods, fish, meat, eggs, 

whole milk 51.4 41.5 2.4 4.7 

42 Vegetahle9 (omitting 7 prepa- 
rations and 6 canned) .... 19.0 4.3 69.5 7.2 

22 Nuts 17.5 55.2 24.5 2.8 

32 Cereal foods 12.6 3.6 82.1 1.8 

21 Tree fruits, berries and melons 5.5 5.7 85.3 3.5 

117 Vegetable foods 14.6 13.9 67.3 4.2 

It is seen that the articles of food are of either animal 
origin or vegetable. The animal foods are the flesh of animals 
(of the water or land), or are eggs, or are milk and other 
dairy products. The vegetable foods are either vegetables (in- 
cluding salads), nuts, cereals, fruits, berries, melons or 
preparations of parts of plants. It is noticeable that the 
animal foods are generally much richer in protein than the 
vegetable ones, and that fishes are, in the main, much richer 
in protein than the flesh of land animals ; though the fishes 
have been imagined to be less nutritious, and therefore suit- 
able for a fasting diet. Indeed, the animal foods, except cream 
and butter, have a far larger proportion of protein, and also, 
with very few exceptions, of fat, than is required for a standard 
diet, and they must consequently be used in conjunction with 
such vegetable foods as have less protein and fat than a stand- 
ard diet requires, in order to obtain from the combination the 
required proportion of the different elements. It is also 
noticeable from the table and diagram, that a number of the 
vegetables, nuts and cereals, have just about the proportion 
of protein required by a standard diet. The nuts are generally 
rich in protein and fat, with an average of a little more pro- 
tein and much more fat than is required by a standard diet. 
The tree fruits, berries and melons are generally very poor in 
protein, and especially in fat, and would not of themselves 
suffice for a standard diet, but could be used to counterbalance 
with their large proportion of carbohydrates the deficiency of 
other foods in that respect. 



50 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

The mean of the 117 vegetable foods mentioned (42 
vegetables, 22 nuts, 32 cereals, and 21 tree-fruits, berries and 
melons) agrees quite closely with the mean of the 39 diets 
investigated; so that a wholly satisfactory, varied standard 
diet can evidently be composed of vegetable foods alone; 
either with average vegetables, nuts, cereals and fruits, or com- 
bining in any one of many ways two or more kinds of food 
of those different classes. The addition of dairy products, 
milk, butter and cheese, makes it still easier to arrange a well 
balanced standard diet, when there is only a small number 
of vegetable foods to choose from. By preference, at least one 
vegetable food will be chosen with a proportion of protein 
larger than the sixteen per cent., or so, required by the 
standard diet. If the vegetable foods have not the fourteen 
per cent, of fat required by the standard diet, a little butter 
or some vegetable oil (of the several palatable ones) can be 
added — for example, in cooking or in a salad. 

An examination of the table will show a striking re- 
semblance in composition, as to dry nutrients, between certain 
foods that are not apt to be thought similar, for instance, the 
egg-plant, tomato and okra are in dry composition closely like 
wheat flour; and each of the four has almost exactly the pro- 
portionate amount of protein and carbohydrates required by 
a standard diet. The deficiency in fat (especially in the 
wheat) is readily supplied by butter or oil; and the universal 
use of butter on bread is easily understood as the instinctive 
method of completely converting the bread into a thorough- 
going staff of life. A smaller amount of butter, or of palatable 
oil would do the same thing for the egg-plant, tomatoes or 
okra. Of course, bread, egg-plant, tomatoes or okra eaten 
with meat or fish, which already have a great excess of protein 
and fat, would not be so wholesome. The meat-eater will eat 
sparingly of egg-plant, tomatoes or bread (cutting it as thin 
as the knife-blade, as if merely making a grudging conces- 
sion to " a decent respect for the opinion of mankind," that 
our daily bread is really by preeminence worthy to be called 
our staple food) ; and will prefer to counterbalance the excess 
of protein by some vegetables, like potatoes or sweet-potatoes, 
deficient in protein and fat, but supplying a large amount of 
the carbohydrate so lacking in meat and fish; or by fruits, 
or berries, which, on the average, closely resemble sweet- 
potatoes in dry composition. The resemblance in composition 



COUNTERBALANCING CRAVINGS. 51 

between rice and maize is also striking, and shows the possi- 
bility of substituting one for the other; say, hominy for rice. 

It is seen that asparagus, mushrooms, peas and beans, and 
in a somewhat less degree, spinach, lettuce, celery and cab- 
bage are rich in protein beyond the requirements of the 
standard diets, but deficient in fat ; which is supplied by salad- 
oil, or by butter, or the less attractive pork-fat often used 
in cooking cabbage. They are, therefore, highly palatable as 
a counterbalance to potatoes and other vegetables somewhat 
deficient in protein. Vegetarians, for that reason, particularly 
desire some portion of those protein-rich vegetables, or cheese 
(say, with macaroni) ; while meat-eaters more demand 
vegetables poor in protein, wishing rather for vegetables rich 
in carbohydrates, to counterbalance the excess of protein and 
fat in meat and fish. For that reason, a vegetarian is apt to 
be dissatified with the selection of vegetables found at the 
table of any meat-eater, and finds them deficient in protein, 
lacking in muscle-building material. 

As not a great many articles, even among vegetable foods, 
and of course none among animal foods, have their constituents 
in approximately the exact proportions of the model mean diet, 
it will often be necessary to obtain that mean by combining 
several articles ; and the natural craving or appetite is a guide 
thereto. If some article eaten contains an excess of protein, 
straightway there is a craving to eat another article that sup- 
plies the counterbalancing fuel in fat or carbohydrates. It 
is for that reason that eaters of fish and meat with a great 
excess of protein, and almost always of fat, have (as long 
since repeatedly observed) a craving for sweetmeats and 
alcohol. This tendency is noticed by Dr. T. K. Chambers, 
author of the article on " Dietetics," in the " Encyclopedia 
Britannica," 9th Ed., 1878; although he generally explains 
favorably whatever dietetic habits have become common. He 
says : " The neglect of vegetables. . . is in a physiological 
point of view imprudent and possibly may be a contributory 
cause of an inordinate thirst for alcohol." Liebig also (in 
his "Animal Chemistry") remarks that the use of cod-liver 
oil tends to promote a disinclination to use wine, and says 
that most people find that they can take wine with animal 
food, but not with farinaceous or amylaceous food. See also 
Chas. O. Groom Napier's paper on " A Cure for Intemper- 
ance," in British Association Sub-section D, Bristol Meeting; 



52 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and " Vegetarianism, the Radical Cure for Intemperance," by 
Harriet P. Fowler, New York, 1879. Already in " Vegetarian 
Cookery" (5th edition, London and Manchester), in 1852, 
it says of vegetarian diet that it, " when adopted, seems in- 
variably to exterminate the appetite for intoxicating liquors." 
Dr. Gustav Schlickeysen likewise argued strongly in the same 
direction and detailed the results of 27 cases where he ap- 
plied the principle, in every case successfully. Sylvester 
Graham (author of " Lectures on Science of Human Life," 
inventor of Graham bread, and son of an English clerical 
emigrant to America), so early as about 1830, led by his own 
experience, vigorously urged that a vegetarian diet was a sure 
cure for alcoholic cravings. The meat-eater's craving for 
alcohol is well illustrated by the eagerly enjoyed, uproarious 
bacchanalian orgies of the Aino savages of Yesso, who live 
chiefly upon game. The flesh-eating North American Indian 
is likewise reputed to have a remarkable weakness for alco- 
holic drink. 

Dr. Chambers also says : " The discovery already mentioned 
of the production of force from the assimilation of starch leads 
to a knowledge, opposed to old prejudices, but supported by 
experience, that the raising of the energies to their full height 
of usefulness may be effected by vegetable food quite as 
well as by the more stimulating and more expensive animal 
nutriment, or by the more rapidly absorbed alcohol." 

Our tables and diagrams themselves make it perfectly clear 
that vegetable food is amply sufficient for man's healthful 
sustenance ; and it cannot be doubted that a diet of that char- 
acter is altogether practicable and originally natural for him. 
" Primitive man," as Dr. Richardson, the distinguished Eng- 
lish physician, over twenty years ago pointed out, " must of 
necessity have found his food in the plant world. We can- 
not imagine him commencing his career learned in the arts of 
hunting, killing and cooking the animals for food." Indeed, 
what creature was physically more defenceless against other 
animals, less fitted to hunt and kill them? Lucky was he, if 
his cunning and speed and tree-climbing skill enabled him to 
escape from such ferocious foes. Evidently, he must at first, 
like the nearest related lower animals, have lived upon 
vegetable food. In infancy, however, like other animals, 
whether they be carnivorous or not, he has always, as Dr. 
Richardson reminds us, naturally lived upon milk; and that 



VEGETARIAN ADVANTAGES. 58 

fact may seem to some a fair argument in favor of his con- 
tinuing through life to make more or less use of milk and 
dairy products, if the unhabituated mature stomach does not 
(as it is apt to do in Japan) rebel against such infantile 
food, no longer needing the great excess of protein for the 
growth of new flesh. 

Another and overwhelming proof that it is altogether prac- 
ticable to live upon vegetable food is the fact that hundreds 
of millions, probably a great majority (" Vegetarian Cookery " 
says, two-thirds or three-fourths) of the human race do at 
the present day live exclusively on such food (including milk) 
and hundreds of millions more taste meat but seldom, once 
or twice a year, or once a month, or once a week, or two or three 
times a week; hardly often enough, or largely enough, to say 
that meat is an essential part of their nourishment, or anything 
more than a tickler of the palate, like the occasional feasts of 
human flesh among cannibals. The number that depend much 
on meat, like the inhabitants of northwestern Europe and of 
America, are really a minority; yet a minority so ignorant of 
the rest of the world, as to imagine that all men must of neces- 
sity either live as they themselves do, or else must suffer in 
health and strength. But if the more largely meat-eating 
parts of the world do really excel in strength, health and en- 
lightenment, the result comes by no means from the meat-diet; 
but rather their enlightenment (arising not from special diet, 
but from racial traits) has made it possible to take advantage 
of natural resources, and has encouraged vigorous industry, 
and has created wealth, that enables indulgence in a more 
abundant and more expensive diet, of flavor that is to many 
highly prized through long habit and inheritance dating back 
hundreds of years to savage times. 

ADVANTAGES OF VEGETARIANISM. 

Physiological Superiority. 

As for health and strength from vegetable food, not only 
are the mountaineers all through populous Asia, who rarely or 
never taste flesh of any kind, conspicuously healthy, brawny, 
powerful men compared with other men of their own race, 
but many thousands of individuals of meat-eating nations have 
with admirable success changed to a vegetable diet without 



54 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

loss of strength. At a notable foot-race from Berlin to 
Vienna, in 1893, two vegetarians came in ahead of all the rest. 
Again, in 1902, the victor in a walking match from Berlin 
to Dresden was Karl Mann, a lacto-vegetarian, as the 
Germans call him. Our own marvelous pedestrian, Weston, 
is said to be nearly, if not quite, a vegetarian. Dr. Furnivall, 
the Shakespearean scholar, a vegetarian for 25 years, in 
February, 1910, at 85 years old, chose to celebrate his birth- 
day by rowing thirteen miles. Among the lower animals it 
has truly been said that the strongest live upon vegetable 
food; the lion is ferocious rather than strong, but the vege- 
tarian elephant, camel, ox, horse, reindeer, moose and others 
have real strength. The general, unprejudiced observations 
and inferences not unfavorable to the health and strength 
given by vegetable food are strongly corroborated by the few 
precise experimental tests that have been made. 

For example, Prof. Irving Fisher, of Yale University, in 
" Science," October 25, 1907, reviews a monograph of 77 pages 
on a " Scientific Investigation of the Brussels Vegetarians," 
by two ladies, Dr. Ioteyko, head of the laboratory at the Brus- 
sels University, and Miss Kipiani. They are convinced that 
the vegetarian practice is in the main more rational than the 
highly nitrogenous diet common in western Europe and 
America. They quote the eminent French writer on dietetics, 
Armand Gautier, " who without himself being a vegetarian 
praised the good effects of the vegetarian regimen," and who 
said: "The vegetarian regimen, modified by the addition of 
milk, fat, butter, eggs, has great advantages. It adds to the 
alkalinity of the blood, accelerates oxidation, diminishes or- 
ganic wastes and toxins; it exposes one much less than the 
ordinary regimen to skin maladies, to arthritis, to congestions 
of internal organs. This regimen tends to make us pacific 
beings, and not aggressive and violent. It is practical and ra- 
tional." He is quoted as saying of muscular strength, in his 
recent work, " L' Alimentation et les Regimes :" " In England, 
for example, present records are held by vegetarian cyclists. 
J. Lefevre, the eminent mountaineer, often covers more than 
fifty miles of most arduous climbing on a diet of sugar, fruit, 
bread, chocolate and lime-juice. The vegetarian regimen, 
especially the milk and vegetable diet, is inimical to gout, 
rheumatism and various nervous diseases. On such diet, the 
character of a man seems to become more supple, and his mind 



PHYSIOLOGICAL ADVANTAGE. 55 

keener. This, at least, is the idea of that excellent judge 
Seneca, who became a vegetarian in his old age." 

In regard to the 43 Brussels vegetarians of several years 
standing, the investigators observe that, " for the most part, 
the vegetarians appear younger than their age; notably the 
ladies are distinguished by their clear and fresh complexion." 
(This agrees with the sly suggestion in the newspapers of 
1892, that Lady Augustus Paget, wife of the British Am- 
bassador at Vienna had for that very reason, rather than from 
merely humane grounds, enthusiastically adopted a vegetarian 
diet.) As to strength, little difference was discovered between 
vegetarians and carnivorous people; but in endurance, a very 
remarkable difference was found, the vegetarians excelling 
from 50 to 200 per cent., according to the method, of measure- 
ment. This result, Prof. Fisher remarks, agrees with an ex- 
periment on nine Yale students in 1906; at the end of five 
months, their strength, after reducing their consumption of 
flesh foods by five-sixths, remained practically stationary, but 
their endurance was increased by over 90 per cent. Quite re- 
cently, with his ergograph, he has found that Karl Mann, the 
above mentioned lacto-vegetarian, could lift the weight 687 
times, against Horace Fletcher's 350 times, and the previous 
record of 175 times, and the 30 to 60 times of ordinary men 
of fair muscular development. Prof. Fisher also found by 
gymnasium tests that a couple of dozen flesh-abstainers had 
two or three times the endurance of a like number of flesh- 
eaters, agreeing well with the Brussels experiments. In both 
investigations, the vegetarians recovered from fatigue much 
more quickly than the meat-eaters. The Brussels authors, 
therefore, recommend the vegetarian diet for working men, 
and urge that its use would lessen railway and industrial acci- 
dents that arise from over-fatigue, and would, among the 
economic benefits, increase the productivity of labor. 

These recent careful scientific tests fully corroborate what 
had long previously been noted less precisely in " Vegetarian 
Cookery " of the greater endurance of vegetarian laborers in 
Ireland, Scotland (with no bullocks slaughtered in Glasgow 
in 1763), France, where Dupin says that two- thirds of the 
population live without flesh-meat; indeed the peasantry and 
hard workers of all Europe, not excepting England, " are 
mainly abstainers from meat, as in Norway, Sweden, Russia, 
Denmark, Poland, Germany, Turkey, Greece, Switzerland, 



56 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Spain and Portugal, the bone and sinew of all these countries 
being built up upon the vegetable products of the earth. . . . 
Many instances to prove the health, longevity and strength 
of classes of men carrying out this practice can also be quoted 
from the experience of the world." The Pattamars of India, 
the Poles and Hungarians of the Carpathian Mountains, por- 
ters of Morocco, Smyrna, Spain and Canton, the Greek boat- 
men, the South American miners (and the Mexican peons 
might be added), of great endurance, " are all adherents to the 
simplest habits of diet." Adam Smith in the " Wealth of Na- 
tions," is cited as saying that the hardest working men (chiefly 
Irish), on vegetable diet, are the strongest men in the British 
dominions. Dr. Forbes's experiments with students about 25 
years old showed that the Irish and Scotch excelled the Eng- 
lish in stature and strength ; the Irish being mainly vegetarian, 
and the Scotch also abstemious. The experience of the Eng- 
lish society of vegetarians is also favorable, and they are com- 
paratively exempt from illness, notwithstanding the difficulties 
of changing to vegetarian diet in the prevalent great ignorance 
about it. 

Prof. Fisher remarks that the Brussels monograph confirms 
the trend of many modern studies; for example, T. Russell's 
book on " Diet and Strength " and Prof. Chittenden's argu- 
ments in favor of a low-protein diet. But Prof. Fisher points 
out the possibility that flesh-eating is harmful not only be- 
cause of excessive proteid, but because meat contains poison- 
ous elements; and he reminds us that Liebig himself came to 
repudiate the idea of nutrition in the extractives of meat (such 
as beef-tea and broth or soup-stock) ; and he further cites Dr. 
F. B. Turck's experimental proof that they have bacteria, 
and, as a fine culture-medium, greatly multiply them. Prof. 
Fisher adds that these investigations with those of Combe, 
Metchnikoff, Tissier, Her.ter and others, seem gradually to be 
demonstrating that the fancied strength from meat is, like the 
fancied strength of alcohol, an illusion, and that the beef and 
ale of England are largely sources of weakness, not strength. 
Even Samson was a teetotaler. 

Our own table and diagram of the diets, indeed, has made 
it apparent that working power or strength, comes not from 
an unusually large proportion of the nitrogenous component, 
but rather from the quantity of the food, without any change 
in the proportions of its chemical ingredients. The wear and 



IDEAL DIET VEGETARIAN. 57 

tear of the muscles must be proportionate to the amount of 
work done, and that to the amount of fuel consumed; so that 
the nitrogenous or muscle-building matter should retain a 
constant proportion to the whole amount of food (supposing 
the ratio of fat to the carbohydrates remains unchanged). It 
is probable, therefore, that one diet of ideal composition would 
be best suited to all degrees of severity of work, and should 
be varied only in total amount for the difference in those de- 
grees. The ideal diet is most likely to have, for its dry 
nutrients, the same main composition, the same proportions of 
protein, fat, carbohydrates and ash as are found in the mean 
of the diets of all mankind, and doubtless differs very little 
from the hnal mean of our diet table and diagram, the mean 
for 39 diets, and for several hundred individuals, besides the 
army and prison rations. 

It is, therefore, extremely probable that this natural, the 
approximately average, diet of all men should have originally 
been the one most acceptable to man's taste, and any notable 
departure from it, as in the case of the excessively nitro- 
genous and fatty meat and fish, must have been, at least in 
the beginning, highly distasteful. It is true, that long habitua- 
tion, through many generations, has made some men fond of 
the taste of meat; but disuse of it soon lessens the liking, and 
longer disuse increases the distaste. Evidently it is natural 
that there should be, in the most primitive condition, a dis- 
like or even disgust, at the very thought of eating animal food. 

Moreover, with increased enlightenment, it is certainly not 
appetizing to reflect that mingled with the animal's muscle, 
you must eat also more or less of the particles of the excre- 
mentitious products of its decomposition, since they cannot 
have been fully separated and removed from the muscles, or 
meat; but in the case of oysters, snails and some other small 
animals, your thoughts as well as your eyes must be blind 
to the larger masses of such matters that necessarily exist in 
the outlets of the digestive organs. Furthermore, along with 
the meat are taken the living parasites that inhabit it, such 
as the tapeworm, or taenia, and the trichina, and yet more in- 
evitably the bacteria that infest the decomposing portions. It 
is certain, too, that many animals commonly slaughtered for 
food, are by no means in a perfectly healthy condition. In 
fact, it is hard to believe that animals accustomed, like the 
hog, to wallow in filth, or, like the hog and common poultry 



58 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and eels and oysters, to feed upon filthy, decomposing food 
can fail to have more or less unhealthy flesh that should be 
altogether disgusting to the reflective eater. Indeed " Vege- 
tarian Cookery " takes pains to prove that very much meat in 
the markets comes from really diseased animals. 

The Brussels investigators, like some others, while com- 
mending a vegetable-diet, advised that any change to it from 
an animal-food diet should be gradual. Benjamin Franklin, 
however, in his autobiography, says that he repeatedly made 
the change abruptly to a vegetable diet, " without the least 
inconvenience," and thinks " there is little in the advice of 
making those changes by easy gradation." Probably there 
would be no need to make the change gradual, if care were 
taken to supply at once a proper proportion of muscle-build- 
ing material (protein). If, in entire ignorance of the sub- 
ject the attempt be made to live wholly upon the vegetables 
especially poor in protein that are most apt to be found on the 
tables of the carnivorous, doubtless there would be a lack of 
protein that might be sufficiently supplied by a diminished 
amount of meat; until by degrees the natural appetite or 
craving, if not further enlightenment on the subject, should 
lead to the selection of vegetables satisfactorily rich in protein. 

The possibility of man's having abandoned in some 
countries his original vegetarian diet, the food of the nearest 
kindred lower animals, and changed his dietetic habits so com- 
pletely, that many men in our part of the world have come to 
think meat indispensable, is by no means inconceivable. For 
the stomach itself, if undisturbed by mental repugnance (and 
the lowest savages are not fastidious) seems to be indifferent 
as to the primary source of the food it digests, provided only 
the chemical composition and physical texture be satisfactory. 
The custom in the south of India to feed horses with boiled 
meat, sheep's head, has been known from the time of Marco 
Polo; though he says they die off from eating cooked food. 
He and others also note that on the Arabian coast, horses, oxen, 
camels and sheep are fed with fish. According to Cuvier, the 
Norwegians feed cod-heads to their cows ; and the Icelanders, 
cod-bones to their cattle. Many special instances have been 
observed in other countries, where vegetarian animals take to 
flesh food. It is likewise a common thing to see the carnivorous 
dog and cat fed on bread and milk, or purely vegetable food, 
and the dog eaten in China is fed on rice. It is not, there- 



MEAT DISADVANTAGEOUS. 59 

fore, altogether surprising that a portion of the human race 
should, as a matter of convenience, have taken to feeding upon 
flesh, notwithstanding that the naturally almost defenceless 
condition of primitive man, clearly indicates that he must, like 
the apes and other monkeys, have at first depended wholly or 
mainly on vegetable products for subsistence. After acquiring, 
unlike other less intelligent animals, the use of implements, 
and before he learned the arts of agriculture, he doubtless 
found flesh food to be in many cases the easiest to obtain, 
sometimes the only obtainable food, and gradually in that de- 
graded, ultra-savage condition, he became even fond of its 
taste, and overcame any natural aversion or disgust at it. 
Nevertheless, as we have seen, a very large share, most likely 
more than half, of the human race, certainly hundreds of mil- 
lions, still live almost exclusively upon vegetable food, with 
milk sometimes added, eating flesh, at most rarely, perhaps 
once or twice a year, if at all. That, too, without the least 
detriment to their muscular strength or mental power. Ben- 
jamin Franklin came to a like conclusion from his own ex- 
periments in vegetarian diet. It is true, that in some countries, 
meat-eating is a luxury enjoyed by the inhabitants in easier 
circumstances, and consequently seems to accompany, though 
not of itself occasioning, the greatest vigor of unstinted 
nourishment. 

One certainly very valuable merit of a vegetable diet is its 
eradication, already mentioned, cf the strong craving for alco- 
holic drinks which is apt to be created by the great excess of 
protein and fat in animal food. 

Another not unimportant advantage of a vegetable diet ap- 
pears to be the better preservation of the teeth. Particles of 
meat sticking between the teeth are apt to decompose readily, 
and setting up fermentation attack the enamel of the teeth 
and cause their decay. Particles of vegetable food are much 
less liable to that difficulty. Of course, good teeth are highly 
useful aids to good digestion. 

It has been urged that human teeth, from their resemblance 
to those of distinctly carnivorous animals, indicate that men 
likewise should naturally eat meat. But, even if the re- 
semblance were perfect, it should be remembered that the same 
form of teeth that appears suited to tearing or biting the 
muscles of prey also be well adapted for separating the fibres 
of vegetable coverings or leaves, or for biting the flesh of 



60 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

fruits and roots, clearly a part, at least, of the natural food 
of man. We ought, therefore, not to be led astray by the 
mere names that have been given to certain forms of teeth. 
Though they are sometimes called carnivorous, they might per- 
haps better be called fibrivorous, or fibre, or flesh, tearing or 
biting, whether animal or vegetable fibre or flesh. Evidently, 
the important point is in the character or consistency of the 
material that is to be comminuted, rather than the fact of its 
being of animal or vegetable origin. The shape of the teeth 
is adapted to the texture of the food, whether for grinding 
seeds, crushing grass, gnawing nutshells, cutting flesh or tear- 
ing fibres apart; what difference does it make to the teeth 
whether the flesh or fibres be of vegetable or animal origin? 
The falsely suggestive name carnivorous teeth should be no 
argument for men's biting animal flesh or tearing animal fibres 
instead of the flesh and fibres of vegetable substances. There 
is, to be sure, some resemblance between human teeth and 
strictly carnivorous ones ; but it is far from perfect, and hardly 
so much as that between the fibres or flesh of animals and 
those of plants. 

It is not, however, merely the texture of the food that 
has to be considered; there is also the comparative chemical 
instability of the animal food. In consequence of this de- 
cisively important feature, the teeth of carnivorous animals 
are comparatively far apart and irregular in size; so that 
fibres may not stick between them and quickly cause their 
decay. The diversity of shape and the wide separation pre- 
vent the persistent sticking of particles of flesh food between 
the teeth, a difficulty that, from the easy and rapid decom- 
position of animal food, would lead to their early decay, and 
consequently to the eventual extermination of a race of animals 
subject to such a defect. There is, then, strongly corrobora- 
tive and altogether cogent reason behind, when Gassendi 
(1592-1635) urges that the conformation of our teeth is not 
well adapted to a flesh diet; for carnivorous animals, lions, 
tigers, wolves, dogs, cats and others, have long, conical, sharp, 
uneven teeth with intervals between them, unlike the teeth of 
vegetarian animals, short, blunt, close together in even rows. 
The great zoologist Cuvier also argued that the natural food 
of man was vegetables, not only because his hands gave 
especial facility for gathering them, but because his short, but 
moderately strong jaws, on the one hand, and his canines only 



HINDOO STRENGTH. 61 

equal in length to the other teeth, together with his tuber- 
culated molars, on the other hand, would hardly enable him 
either to masticate herbage or to devour uncooked food. 
Monkeys, too, generally vegetarian (though some species are 
also insectivorous), have teeth like man's, as " Vegetarian 
Cookery " points out, only with the canine teeth usually much 
more developed than in man (as weapons of offence and de- 
fence, yet far inferior to the vegetarian elephant's tusk). In- 
deed, the canine tooth argument " proves too much " for the 
mixed diet. 

It is also remarked that man's intestinal canal is not 
merely (as opponents have argued) six or seven times the 
length of his body, but twelve times the length of his spine, 
to compare him rightly with other animals ; showing that he 
is properly adapted to fruit and grain eating, as in the case 
of monkeys. 

It has lately been argued that a vegetarian diet cannot be 
so favorable to muscular strength as a meat diet, because the 
vast population of India, where a vegetarian diet prevails, is 
kept in subjection by a comparatively very small number of 
meat-eating Europeans. The argument is almost obviously 
fallacious ; for it has been familiarly known for more than a 
hundred years past that " the battle is not to the strong alone, 
it is to the vigilant, the active and the brave." Indeed, ever 
since the invention of modern firearms, it is a matter of fre- 
quent remark that now the bodily strong and the weak are re- 
duced to an equality. Clearly, it is modern firearms, and 
especially artillery, that have principally given Great Britain 
supremacy among the less enlightened inhabitants of India. 
Furthermore, there are other stringent reasons why the people 
of India cannot claim to have political power in anything like 
an equal degree with even a far less numerous body of 
Europeans. For the Hindoos are extremely disunited and 
sub-divided by subordinate principalities, and above all, by 
castes, which give them various inclinations, desires and aspira- 
tions, that greatly stand in the way of their combining forcibly 
against their foreign rulers, however general may be a certain 
amount of discontent and lack of appreciation of the peaceful 
and mainly humane and highly beneficial British sway. But, 
even if bodily weakness could justly be attributed to the 
Hindoos, there are causes much more probable than the vege- 
tarian character of their diet. By far the greatest part of 



62 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the population is extremely poor, and the scantiness of their 
food might well have some effect upon their vigor. On the 
other hand, the richer part of the population are generally 
disposed to copy the too little enlightened practice of their 
ancestors for hundreds of years, to indulge in idleness and 
avoidance of muscular exertion, the only method of acquiring 
muscular strength. The neglect of abundant bodily exercise 
on account of the warmth of the climate is likely to have much 
more to do with the lack of muscular strength than the char- 
acter of their food. It is even possible that the prevalent 
Hindoo custom of eating but one meal a day may have a 
greater tendency towards muscular weakness than the mere 
fact of the vegetable or animal origin of their nourishment. 
But after all, is it a fact that the Hindoos are deficient in 
muscular strength? It hardly seems so to one who has seen 
(as I have done with amazement) a Hindoo porter uncon- 
cernedly take a huge heavy box of luggage upon his back, 
and sturdily start off on a march of over a mile up hill ; though 
his calves were so slender as to make his legs look almost like 
pipestems, very different from the bulky calves of the Chinese, 
of muscle of a different character. It is likely that few, if 
any, British officers could manage such a load, though fully 
capable of controlling a thousand European men. Military 
supremacy dependent on muscular strength, forsooth ! If so, 
we must revive the old style Chinese custom of testing would- 
be generals in a somewhat acrobatic fashion. 

As for the opinion of men the most competent to judge 
of the matter, " Vegetarian Cookery " cites a number of cele- 
brated scientific naturalists, anthropologists, physiologists and 
the like who have declared that man seems to be better adapted 
to the vegetarian diet; for example, Linnaeus, Cuvier, Gas- 
sendi, Monboddo, the cautious Daubenton, Sir Everard Home, 
Ray, Bell and others ; and further cites a number of famous 
philosophers and scholars who have also favored that diet ; for 
instance, Pythagoras, Plutarch, Zeno, the stoic, Diogenes, the 
cynic, Plato, Epicurus, Proclus, Empedocles, Socion, Quintus 
Sextus, Apollonius Tyanaeus, Porphyry, and recently Ritson, 
Haller, Drs. Cheyne and Lambe, Newton, Shelley, Hufelend, 
the benevolent Howard, Swedenborg, Wesley and others. 

The apparently better health of a small number of men 
is not conclusive evidence of the superiority of the vegetable 
diet; for it is difficult to know how much of the good health 



CONSTITUTIONAL TESTS. 68 

may come from personal idiosyncrasies of original bodily con- 
stitution, or early invigorating habits of life. Though hygienic 
laws are unquestionably valid, and in the case of their viola- 
tion, even without malice, or through mere ignorance, in- 
evitably punish by a tendency to shorten life, and are in- 
exorable, inflexible, precisely alike for those who are in other 
respects adorable saints or detestable sinners; some oriental 
and medieval ascetics have shown a quite astounding tenacity 
of life under flagrant disregard of any such regulations or 
guidance. In indulgent life, too, there have been many famous 
instances of long continued neglect of health-giving rules. 
Demetrius, for instance, had the surprising vigor to bear a 
life of great excitement and debauchery until he was 54 ; and 
many others of iron constitution have continued less serious 
violations of the laws of health (such as more moderate nerve- 
tickling, lack of exercise, of bathing, of pure air, and the like) 
to a much greater age ; making their emulous boon-companions 
ashamed, or unwilling, to betray inability to keep pace with 
their indiscreet indulgence. The penalties, too, are the more 
apt to be disregarded by any unreflective man, because in many 
cases they are not completely obvious consequences of the in- 
discretions, and not seldom are mainly deferred for years, 
and take the form of a decided shortening of life through 
increased vulnerability to attacks of diseases ; and this effect 
may sometimes be attributed to mere original weakness of con- 
stitution — that is, probably to the ill-considered conduct or 
unfortunate environment of a previous generation. Satisfac- 
torily to judge, then, of the good or bad effect of a vegetable 
diet in any particular case, it would be necessary to have some 
rather intimate knowledge of the strength or weakness of the 
experimenter's constitution, a rather hard matter to determine 
with precision for any individual. Perhaps as good a guide 
as any is the fact that the constitution is inherited from one's 
parents, and that all the children of the same two parents 
may be supposed to have, in general, very similar constitu- 
tions. It may, therefore, be worth while to adduce the result 
of the only vegetarian experiment where such facts are at 
hand. My trial of the vegetarian diet (regarded among rela- 
tives as dreadfully eccentric, and as flying in the face of the 
whole world's experience and judgment) has now lasted more 
than fifty-two years (since May, 1864); until latterly, it is 
true, far too gropingly, in the universally prevalent thick fog 



64 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of ignorance on the subject; but with general health, so far 
as directly or indirectly owing to the diet, on the whole 
markedly better than it probably would have been; with the 
lower teeth/ all but one, yet serviceable and, with two or three 
exceptions, scarcely in the minutest degree unsound, and with 
the two or three defects, mostly very slight, all dating back 
more than sixty years, to meat-eating days; with no occasion 
to consult a dentist during fifty years ; with life now decidedly 
longer than that of any sister or brother or either parent. 
It is a bitter thought that so simple and agreeable a method 
might have greatly prolonged their lives. But there is still 
hope for other relatives and friends. The vegetarian experi- 
ment is, so far, thoroughly satisfactory. Every additional 
year of life is now complacently received as clearly a direct 
reward for the diet. Some years ago, already, notwithstand- 
ing extremely depressing hard times, it proved possible safely 
to weather the commonly reputed dangerous cape of the grand 
climacteric, not only without becoming a sot, but, on the con- 
trary, with absolutely no hankering for alcohol; and a pacific 
sea of mellow autumn appears to stretch beyond, where " every 
wave is charmed." The photograph at 81 shows vigor still 
after nearly 53 years of the diet. 

It must, however, be borne in mind that, of course, this 
matter of vegetarian diet is, after all, by no means so import- 
ant for health as a good circulation of blood maintained by 
abundant bodily exercise (especially needful when the 
natural, unstimulated heart pulsations are sluggish or feeble) ; 
for, with good judgment and the cravings encouraged and 
tempered by a good circulation, even a meat diet, despite its 
harmful temptations, may also be so balanced by other food 
as to give the stomach the proper chemical proportions neces- 
sary for good heatlh. 

Economical Benefit of Vegetarianism. 

The economical advantages of vegetarianism (aside from 
those of health and strength) must be of some importance, 
at least in the countries where it prevails ; and doubtless help 
much towards its predominance through the greater part of 
the world. For it is clear that required nourishment may be 
obtained directly from vegetable food more cheaply than by 
means of first feeding animals from the same general source, 
fattening them, and then preparing their carcases for human 



B siBflfl 


^Bf * 



BENJAMIN SMITH LYMAN 

AT 81, AFTER NEARLY 53 YEARS OF VEGETARIAN DIET 



SENTIMENTAL BEARINGS. 65 

consumption. It has been estimated, flesh food costs, in that 
way, from two to twenty times as much as the equivalent 
vegetable food. Such saving, however, is in some measure lost 
in regions where a meat diet is the general rule, and com- 
pletely holds sway over the kitchen and table. It is earnestly 
to be hoped that diffusion of the knowledge of the benefits of 
vegetarian diet and better acquaintance with the methods of 
preparing vegetarian dishes will make it easier to find these 
satisfactorily not only in private houses, but in hotels and 
restaurants. 

Sentimental Bearings of Vegetarianism. 

In addition to the physical features that we have con- 
sidered in comparing diets partly composed of animal foods, 
or wholly without them, the vegetarian question has oc- 
casionally from remote antiquity been thought to have moral 
and esthetic bearings, and has sometimes even been in- 
separably united with religion or superstition. From early 
times down to our own day we find in places and ages of 
especial refinement not only kindliness towards fellow men 
and the absence of cannibalism, but humane feeling towards 
the lower animals, the desire to prevent treating them with 
cruelty or needless severity, and sometimes even a scrupulous, 
often religious, or superstitious, avoidance of killing them to 
eat; demonstrating, at the same time, on a large scale the 
possibility of healthfully and vigorously doing without such 
food. 

The desire to avoid cruelty or to cause pain is sometimes 
probably even exaggerated; for it may not be realized that 
the lower animals, without language and logic (except, per- 
haps, of the most rudimentary kind), must necessarily be with- 
out reasoning power of " large discourse looking before and 
after," and must therefore be incapable of suffering from any 
thoughts or anticipation or imagination of death. The suffer- 
ing they feel is only of immediate pain, and the fear taught 
by their experience of pain ; which, to be sure, is the accom- 
paniment of partial death, the annihilation of the vitality of a 
portion of the cells or combination of cells that compose their 
being. The cause of such pain might be avoided by painstak- 
ing anesthetic methods. Indeed, ordinary butchering is gen- 
erally much less cruel than the results of the sport of thought- 
less, unsympathetic huntsmen and fishermen. If it still be 



66 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

argued that we have no right to take away the life of a lower 
animal, not merely its present life, but its possibly propagated 
life of indefinitely prolonged later generations of perhaps 
gradually rising scale, it could be answered that the same 
argument would apply (only in somewhat less strength) 
against taking the life of even brainless, nerveless insensitive 
plants, leaving nothing for men to live upon. It is (clearly) 
the law of nature that higher organisms, if they live at all, 
must live by destroying at least lower ones. 

If animal food were, indeed, necessary to human health, 
it would doubtless be essential to man's nature to be able to 
take the lives of animals with equanimity, even though with 
some necessary infliction of pain; and it might then well be 
argued that compassion towards them must be weakness, a de- 
fect of character to be repressed, and to be replaced by con- 
scious nerve, self- justifying hardihood in maintaining the un- 
doubted superior right of human welfare over the inferior 
claims of the lower animals. Vigorous self-assertion, it would 
be said, should prevail rather than namby-pamby sentimental- 
ism. But the very foundation of this argument is the neces- 
sity of animal food for the best human health; and it is just 
this premise that can most confidently be disputed. For it is 
clear that man must naturally and originally have been vege- 
tarian, like his closest allies among the lower animals, and 
he doubtless became carnivorous only after having acquired 
the use of weapons. But, to this very day, as already re- 
marked, probably more than half the human race is vege- 
tarian, and a large part of the rest indulge in meat or fish- 
eating only exceptionally. It was particularly some savage 
races of northwestern Europe that habitually and largely ate 
meat; and, as we are descended from them, we are apt to 
entertain the erroneous thought that it is a universal practice 
and necessary for human vigor and strength. Our own tables 
and diagrams have shown us plainly that vegetable foods are 
not only amply sufficient for man's healthful nourishment, but 
that they are far better for that purpose than animal food. 
It can no longer be doubted that a vegetable diet is, not only 
altogether practicable, but originally natural for him. 

Let us glance for a moment at the most enlightened feel- 
ing in various countries since early times in regard to slaying 
the lower animals. In China, for instance, the ancient home 
of refinement, Mencius, the Second Sage, long not quite duly 



kalidasa's opinion. 67 

appreciated, but first accorded that rank a whole millennium 
after his death, the contemporary of Plato, Zeno, Epicurus, 
Demosthenes, and other great men of the western world, and 
(as Legge has pointed out) fully their peer, 2200 years ago, 
commending a petty king for tenderness of heart betrayed 
towards a sacrificial bullock, " kindness sufficient to reach to 
animals," thought the king therefore worthy to rule the em- 
pire; and said: "The superior man is so affected towards 
animals, that having seen them alive, he cannot bear to see 
them die ; having heard their dying cries, he cannot bear to eat 
their flesh. Therefore, he keeps his slaughter and cooking 
room far off." 

Again, 1500 years ago, at the height of the vigor and re- 
finement of the Indian Empire, Kalidasa, the Hindoo Shake- 
speare, in his enchanting drama Sakuntala, pointed out the 
gross inappropriateness of a love of hunting in a ruler, who 
should rather be the defender of the weak: 

" Now, Heaven forbid this heartless barb should rage 
Within the tender body of a fawn, 
Like fire among a heap of lovely flowers: 
Can thy keen shafts no meeter quarry find 
Than the warm life-blood of a harmless deer? 
Haste back thy eager arrow to its quiver ! 
A king should wield his arms to shield the weak, 
And not to agonize the innocent: " 

and further on, he says, " How comes it, that hunting, which 
moralists reckon a vice, should be a virtue in the eyes of a 
king? " Indeed, the same absurd idea has been handed down 
to modern times, and the skill and energy required for the 
chase, with its health-giving activity in the midst of invigorat- 
ing breezes and charming wilds, have gilded over what is, 
after all, in the main, unfeeling butchery, until it is accounted 
fit sport for lofty rulers and wealthy gentlemen. " It is a 
lovely morning; let's go and kill something! " As if forsooth, 
there were no other way to enjoy the charms of the wilder- 
ness, no other pursuits to draw one thither, and no other suf- 
ficient occasion there for the exercise of skill and energy ! 
It is true that the hunting of wild game may be said to have 
a peculiar appropriateness to the primitive regal (or princely, 
or, in general, nobleman's) character, which is, at least in its 
origin, essentially based on self-assertion and a desire to 



68 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

dominate others for selfish gratification (is it not just what 
we see in our modern political bosses?), and is, therefore, not 
apt to be too regardful of the interests of others. In fact, 
hunting beasts may be considered a comparatively mild and 
harmless diversion for those whose main occupation in reality 
is hunting men, not so much shielding the weak, as controlling 
and using them. 

Once more, 600 years ago, we find similar evidence of re- 
finement in Chaucer's description of his Prioress: 

" Sche was so charitable and so pitous, 
Sche wolde weepe if that sche sawe a mous 
Caught in a trappe, if it were deed or bledde." 

It may be urged, that she was a lady and more nicely refined 
than a man would be expected to be, and that Chaucer im- 
plies that it was so in his time, rough as it was. But it must 
be admitted that in refinement women have always taken the 
lead, and that, as men become more enlightened, they follow 
after them in that respect, admitting them to be right. 

In our own day, the general impression of the at best 
somewhat brutalizing effect of the butcher's trade is so fixed 
that, in some states, at least, he is not allowed to sit upon a 
jury in a trial for a capital crime. It is, nevertheless, true 
that butchers may in many ways appear to be excellent men, 
and to have many sterling qualities of brain and heart, and 
to be, in general, apparently no more unfeeling than many 
other men. You will see them not only kind to strangers 
and tender-hearted in their own families, but anxious to keep 
their little children from the sight of their own dreadful daily 
work. Habit, indeed, makes them blind to anything like fel- 
low feeling for their victims, to any thought of humane liking 
for them, a feeling that must be repressed a hundred times, 
until it entirely disappears in view of the other wholly mis- 
taken, but fixed, idea that necessity, and not mere habit, or 
indulgence of a perverted palate, compels the sacrifice. Per- 
haps some of them may in geneal appear no less humane than 
ordinary men, yet many others, through the very practice of 
preparing and eating meat, are likely to become more or less 
unfeeling; and it may well be questioned whether, in the now 
evident absence of any real necessity, it be not decidedly best 
to do away altogether with an occupation that seems to the 
unhabituated so revolting and horrid; and to say with Paul: 



RELIGIOUS SCRUPLES. blJ 

" If meat make my brother to stumble, I will eat no flesh 
foreverniore, lest I make my brother to stumble." 

" Vegetarian Cookery " comments with justice on the in- 
stinctive repulsiveness of meat, and the natural attractiveness 
of vegetables and fruits ; and on our ostracism of " butchers, 
whose very name we employ as a term of reproach." One 
of them, however, with impulsive feeling said: " I would it 
were penal to kill lambs;" and another of them appreciatively 
said: "The lamb, sir, dies harder than any other animal; it 
sobs like a child, when stuck with the knife, and continues so 
to do, as long as the blood flows, or any sign of life remains." 

The great Tolstoi Society in Russia carries so far its prin- 
ciple of preventing cruelty to animals, that not only is animal 
food not eaten, but leather is not used, and shoes are, instead, 
made of canvas. 

In many countries and in many ages, religion, or supersti- 
tion, has been invoked in support of what was doubtless, at 
bottom, a kindly desire to protect animals from cruelty, or 
from pain or death merely for the gratification of the palate. 
Already about 2400 years ago, the great Buddha is said to 
have compassionately given some of his own flesh to a hungry 
tiger (perhaps the tiger did not think it compassion) ; and 
the Buddhists established the principle that they should not 
kill animals for food, nor, indeed, for any purpose. Not con- 
tent to indicate the weighty and doubtless really all-sufficient 
arguments from the terrible dangers incurred in the present 
natural life, they enforced the principle by the dogmatic as- 
sertion of other horrors that might follow in a succession of 
future lives, that were to be supernaturally entered upon in 
human or bestial form; not, to be sure, in another world, but 
in the amply sufficient present one. Moreover, an additional 
reason for kindness to animals was found in the possibility 
that the souls of the animals might have transmigrated from 
our own near human relatives or ancestors. Consequently 
every Buddhist priest even has his head closely shaven, so 
that no insects causing irritation there should run the risk of 
being killed by him, and so lead to his lasting damnation; 
especially if it should be the murder of transmigrated near 
relatives. 

Again, as a matter of religion, the Carthusian monks of 
the Grande Chartreuse boast that they have not eaten meat 
for over 800 years. The practice there, however, seems to 



70 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

have been based not on kindness to animals, but on supposed 
austerity, or at least the avoidance of anything like feasting, 
for which (with depraved appetites) meat was supposed to 
be used. Vegetables, too, were sparingly eaten. The healthy 
vigorous appearance of the active friars notwithstanding their 
long adherence to vegetarian practice, at least proves the 
possibility of living perfectly well without meat. 

There are said to be two, or more, modern sects in America 
that avoid meat-eating from religious scruples based on Bible 
injunctions, or on a feeling of kindness towards animals. One 
vegetarian church in Philadelphia, called Bible Christians 
since 1809 (a name taken in 1815 by certain Methodists also), 
is an offshoot of the followers of Swedenborg, that remark- 
able man (as well as eminent mining engineer and pioneer of 
modern geology), who was himself a vegetarian for nearly 
thirty years, from the time of his enlightenment, or " illumina- 
tion," until his death. They not only adopt his practice, but 
insist upon the clearly expressed divine command as recorded 
in Genesis, I, 29: "I have given you every herb yielding 
seed, which is upon the face of the earth, and every tree, in 
the which is the fruit of a tree yielding seed; to you it shall 
be for meat." The Seventh Day Adventists also preach ab- 
stinence from flesh-eating. 

It is probable that there are many men to whom the very 
idea of eating the flesh of either animals or of other men, is 
distasteful or even revolting for sufficiently convincing 
reasons, aside from merely unattractive flavor. I have seen 
an ingenuous youth quite unable to join the rest of the family 
in eating of the flesh of his pet rabbit, notwithstanding their 
surprised and almost jeering solicitation. It may well be that 
a less degree of the same kindly feeling may diminish the en- 
joyment of such food for others. In my youthful peregrina- 
tions, at a certain railroad-restaurant in France, some small 
game-birds were brought to the table with their heads tucked 
rather naturally under their wings. At the sight, a young lady 
present exclaimed: Poor creatures! (" Pauvres betes!"), yet 
went on with the meal. Much as if at a cannibal's table, you 
should perceive among the viands, a pretty boy's head and 
face, and should pause an instant to say: " Poor little devil ! " 
and then, bravely pulling yourself together, should go on 
merrily with the feast, avoiding more notice that would con- 
vince your cannibal host you were a wishy-washy, downright 



SPORT. 71 

weak-minded milksop quite unfitted for practical life. Clearly, 
a similar feeling in regard to the lower animals has the same 
foundation and reason; and it is not a very long step from 
cannibalism to eating the flesh of any animal. But, in gen- 
eral, with the change of aspect in cooking, or in preparation 
before cooking, there is little to remind most flesh-eaters, or 
cooks, of the living animal, or of the shocking and more or 
less debasing actions and repulsive processes by which alone 
food can be brought from the open pasture to the kitchen 
and table. 

Even sportsmen accustomed to the sight of wild animals 
have their senses totally blunted to any feeling of fellowship 
or brotherhood with them, especially with subaqueous animals. 
Thus, Izaak Walton, the apostle of angling (than which, he 
says, " God never did make a more calm, quiet, innocent 
recreation "), tells how to use a live frog for bait, putting the 
hook througli his moutli and out at his gills, and sewing the 
upper part of his leg with one stitch to the arming-wire of 
the hook, or tying the leg above the upper joint to the wire; 
" and in so doing, use him as though you loved him, that is, 
harm him as little as you may possibly, that he may live the 
longer " in his misery. The witty and humane Lord Byron, 
on the contrary, speaks of 

— " Angling, too, that solitary vice, 

Whatever Izaak Walton sings or says; 

The quaint, old, cruel coxcomb in his gullet 

Should have a hook, and a small trout to pull it;" 

adding: " It would have taught him humanity at least. This 
sentimental savage (whom it is a mode to quote, amongst the 
novelists, to show their sympathy for innocent sports and 
old songs) teaches how to sew up frogs, and break their legs 
by way of experiment, in addition to the art of angling, the 
cruellest, the coldest, and stupidest of pretended sports. They 
talk about the beauties of nature, but the angler merely thinks 
of his dish of fish; he has no leisure to take his eyes from off 
the streams, and a single bite is worth to him more than all 
the scenery around. . . . The whale, the shark and the tunny 
fishery have somewhat of noble and perilous in them; even 
net-fishing, trawling, &c., are more humane and useful — but 
angling ! No angler can be a good man." — Byron also quotes 



72 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

"the courtly Chesterfield's" query; "if men ever hunted 
twice." 

It may well be insisted that the gentler mutual friendliness 
and affection felt towards one's own race, and consequently 
reaching to the lower animals, is in the main far more im- 
portant for the protection and perpetuation of mankind, than 
the habit of more or less ferocious self-assertion, that seeks 
the individual's own benefit, regardless of the good of others. 
Of course, if animal food were really necessary, or the most 
healthful for us, we should have to make the best of it, not- 
withstanding all its distasteful features. We should, in that 
case, teach ourselves to repel indignantly any soft-hearted 
compunction at the liquid eye of the surprised and wondering 
guileless deer, or of the helpless domestic victim; and should 
school ourselves, as best we might, to the really hopeless task 
of doing away with the manifold cruelty and disgusting, un- 
hygienic methods of almost every step from the broad western 
summer cattle-ranges (let us not think of the dreadful, starv- 
ing and freezing winter ranges of the northwest!) by the 
thirsty and hungry cattle-car, the crowded stockyard, the 
noisome slaughter-house, the malodorous market, the question- 
able kitchen, to the elegant dinner-table. But, even at the best, 
the eye must be carefully kept blind and the heart callous 
to many a painful, unappetizing and even nauseating feature 
of the viand's history. It may well be questioned, to say the 
least, whether such disciplined fortitude and disregard of the 
tenderer feelings and of hygienic (not merely fastidious) 
cleanliness would on the whole (in spite of any possible 
momentary advantages to the individual) be, what is chiefly 
important, permanently better for the race, and more con- 
ducive to success in its severe (yet, in the long run extremely 
beneficial and in the highest degree, morality-encouraging) 
struggle, for existence and advancement. It may be doubted 
whether such rugged harshness and neglect of refinement 
would in the main be more favorable to the growth of a char- 
acter of even-handed, or somewhat indulgent, justice, and to 
the moderation of excessive selfishness, conditions so essential 
to the perpetuation and prosperity of man. But, at any rate, 
it is clear that such approach to the attractions of savage life 
is not by any means necessary for health and vigor. 



73 



SUMMARY. 



To sum up, then, we have seen that man's average food, 
leaving water out of account, consists of about one-sixth pro- 
tein, one-seventh fat, two-thirds carbohydrates and one- 
twentieth ash ; with a larger quantity of food of the same 
composition for harder work, and rather more protein for 
active growth; that vegetable foods on the average have al- 
most precisely that average composition, while animal-foods 
have an enormous excess of protein and of fat and a great 
deficiency of carbohydrates; that with a few vegetables, or a 
vast number of combinations of several vegetable foods, with 
or without dairy products, it is easy to obtain the desirable 
average diet-composition, but that it is comparatively difficult 
readily to counterbalance properly the prodigious unfitness of 
the animal food: that vegetarians desire, in part, vegetables 
rich in protein, while meat-eaters seek, rather, those poor in 
protein; that the instinctive desire to counterbalance the ex- 
cess of protein in meat creates a harmful craving for alcohol; 
that vegetable foods are undoubtedly all-sufficient for man's 
sustenance, and, in fact, must have been the sole food of primi- 
tive man, as they generally are of the nearest allied lower 
animals, and form to-day (with milk) the diet of probably 
more than half the human race, besides practically that of 
hundreds of millions more; that there is at least equal health 
and strength of body and mind from the vegetable diet, and 
two or three times greater power of endurance; that, indeed, 
in cycling and foot-racing, vegetarians have repeatedly won 
the record; that among the lower animals vegetarian ones are 
the strongest; that flesh-eating may even be in some degree 
positively and directly injurious to the health; and at any 
rate is disgusting, from the necessary presence of poisonous 
decomposing organic, in reality excrementitious matter, and 
often of diseased flesh, animal parasites and bacteria; that 
the superior vigor of western Europeans and Americans, if 
really superior, comes rather from more abundant food than 
from its animal character; that vegetable food is more favor- 
able for the preservation of the teeth; that the so-called 
carnivorous teeth are merely for fibres, whether of animals or 
vegetables; that the really carnivorous teeth, are long, sharp, 
uneven, with intervals between, unlike our short, blunt teeth 
close together in even rows; that the monkeys, our nearest 



74 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

allies are generally vegetarian, and have teeth like ours, only 
with the canine teeth much more developed, as weapons; that 
the author's own trial of the vegetarian diet during more than 
fifty years has proved to be not only healthful and invigorat- 
ing but agreeable; that the diet is also economical; the un- 
questionable sufficiency of the vegetable diet removes all neces- 
sity for butchering animals for food; that from early times 
to the present day, many of the wisest, most enlightened and 
refined men have opposed the common practice of killing 
animals for food, and some very populous sects have insisted 
on religious, or superstitious, avoidance of the practice, either 
from kindliness reaching to animals, or from fancied austerity 
(really admiration of simple life and abhorrence of mere self- 
indulgent nerve-tickling) ; that such kindliness is a highly im- 
portant feature of human nature and essential for the pre- 
servation of the race, and does away first with cannibalism, 
and later by degrees with animal slaughter for food, discredits 
hunting and angling for sport, and strengthens the otherwise 
clear proof that flesh-eating is a harmful, as well as needless, 
relic of savagery. 



VEGETARIAN DISHES 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 

Let us consider in a general way the methods of prepara- 
tion and the materials of vegetarian dishes. 

METHODS IN GENERAL. 

The application of heat in many cases makes food more 
easily digestible, and therefore more palatable; and at the 
same time kills dangerous germs and parasites. The heat, to 
be sure, coagulates and hardens albumen, but in general les- 
sens the cohesion of the raw food, softens it, and to some 
extent disintegrates it, particularly if water, having entered 
the cells, boils, and causes them to burst. Thereby, the food 
becomes more permeable to the digestive liquids, which other- 
wise might with difficulty dissolve the albuminoid envelope of 
the cells. Moreover, heat, especially with water, makes the 
starch partially soluble. In the case of meat, the quick ap- 
plication at first of strong heat tends to coagulate the albumen 
on the surface, and to make it therefore the better retain the 
juices within. That object is attained in broiling, with heat 
closely applied to a small article; and in roasting, with a 
large object exposed to a strong heat, but with free access of 
air. In baking, however, the heat is generally less at the be- 
ginning and stronger afterwards, a less satisfactory method 
for meat, and the vapors from the cooking, unable to escape, 
are detrimental to the flavor, if not to the digestibility of the 
result. In boiling, if the food be first soaked in cold water, 
the albumen is thereby partly dissolved, the cells on heating 
are apt to burst, and the juice and flavor tend to enter the 
water; with a result satisfactory for soups and vegetables, 
but injurious to meat, which rather needs to be put into water 
already boiling so as to coagulate the albumen of the surface 
and retain the juices. In stewing with water in a closed ves- 
sel, the cooking is slow, a method highly satisfactory for 
vegetables, and making even poorer qualities of meat soft, 
tender and digestible, and drawing out nourishment from the 
very bones. Frying is heating with fat; either dry, with a 

75 



76 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

thin film of the fat on a hot iron, as a griddle-cake; or fully 
immersed in the fat, using a temperature of nearly or quite 
400 degrees, neither hot enough for charring, nor cool enough 
to make soggy, with care not to chill by putting in too many 
things. Buckmaster, in his article on " Cookery " in the 
"Encyclopaedia Britannica," 1878, says that "everything 
fried in fat should be placed on bibulous paper, to absorb any 
fat on the surfaces." The Hindoo curry is made first with 
briefly frying in butter, or oil, and then immediately stewing 
in water, a method well suited not only for vegetables, but 
for retaining the juices and flavor of meat. As to the cook- 
ing of vegetables, a very skillful French cook, the late Madame 
Landouzy, of Philadelphia, whose house was the headquarters 
of the French culinary experts of the whole region, used to 
say: " The secret of cooking vegetables well is to cook them 
slowly for a long time;" but possibly there are some excep- 
tions, and, among them, perhaps, leafy vegetables. Of keen 
observation and sound judgment, she had become particularly 
acquainted with that branch of the art in her younger years, 
while, with her mother at Dole, France, they lived, like so 
many in France, chiefly on vegetables, and took pains to con- 
trive many appetizing methods of preparing them. Woods 
and Snyder (" United States Agriculture Bulletin 249 ") say 
of cereals that " long, slow cooking is better, as it breaks 
down the crude fibre, and changes the starch to soluble forms, 
without materially decreasing the solubility of the protein." 

But judiciously combining different materials is perhaps, 
on the whole hardly less important than heat for helping to 
make food suitably nourishing as well as palatable and 
digestible. The French are the most adroit people of the 
whole world not only in so cooking a viand, by broiling, roast- 
ing, baking, stewing or frying, as to make it most digestible 
and to bring out its best flavor, but in enhancing, with nice 
discrimination, its own good qualities by the addition of ap- 
propriate flavoring, seasoning, thickening, fragrance or aroma, 
and other accompaniments, frequently even with a tasteful 
regard for the appearance to the eye. Each viand so pre- 
pared is in itself a work of art, to be enjoyed by itself, and 
not to be mingled indiscriminately on one plate with whatever 
else has been separately produced; and the piquancy and ac- 
centuated variety of each flavor distinct by itself is some- 
times more attractive than a somewhat confused, uniform, 



METHODS IN GENERAL. 77 

unvarying commingling of several flavors. If two viands go 
particularly well together (that is, tend in combination to 
bring about the chemical composition of the model diet, the 
average diet of all mankind), they may be served together, one 
as a garnish, subordinate to the other, not only improving it 
in flavor, but at the same time ornamenting it and giving it a 
more important appearance. The problem is: 
'" What choice to choose for delicacy best, 
What order, so contrived as not to mix 
Tastes not well joined, inelegant, but bring 
Taste after taste upheld with kindliest change;" 

(Milton's Paradise Lost, V: 333-336.) 

not forgetting, however, that it is, at bottom, the correctness 
of the chemical adaptation of the dishes to nutrition that 
really whets the taste. Again, if several viands are (with 
the same chemical end in view) to be commingled, they are 
cooked or prepared together, as in the hotchpot, or the pot- 
au-feu, or in some soups, stews, chowders, curries and salads. 
The Germans seem habitually to add several flavoring 
vegetables to the main one. The principal chemical elements 
and flavors, as well as the skillfully added subordinate ones, 
become by such methods uniformly diffused throughout the 
whole dish, and tend to make it resemble the ambrosia 
(amrita) of the Hindoo gods, which is said to have " the taste 
of all in it." The importance of this uniform diffusion is 
illustrated by the necessity of properly seasoning during the 
cooking, and in a degree justifies " the Great Vatel's " tradi- 
tional suicide at seeing somebody put salt into the soup. It 
may, however, have been put in merely by somebody who had 
an inordinate, unwholesome fondness for salt. Otherwise, the 
cook had committed a grave error, though by no means so 
heinous and irremediable a fault as inadvertently putting in 
twice the proper amount of salt. No one, indeed, can be- 
come, or be, a good cook without insuring against oversight 
by tasting what has been prepared, to see that it is right, and 
in time to correct its defects. One should, at the same time, 
endeavor to acquire nicety of discrimination in regard to 
flavors as well as carefully to observe and remember the ap- 
parent cause of least variations in taste. 

Often, a palatable, digestible and satisfactorily nourish- 
ing combination or commingling of different elements is ef- 



78 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

fected by means of a sauce, after separate cooking. The multi- 
tude of French sauces are mostly for the purpose of adding 
butter or oil, along with some subordinate flavoring, to the 
main viand ; and such sauces would be particularly appropriate 
for the numerous vegetables that are themselves deficient in 
fatty matter. In China and Japan the sauce called soy, 
largely used as the foundation of Worcestershire sauce, Har- 
vey's sauce and perhaps other English sauces, is made from 
beans, and has (in dry composition — neglecting the water) a 
large proportion of protein, the nitrogenous, muscle-building 
component of food; and would, therefore, be a useful and 
agreeable accompaniment to roots and a few other vegetables, 
that are somewhat deficient in that component. The same 
might be said of mushroom catchup; and, in a less degree, of 
walnut, catchup, and, still slightly less, of tomato catchup. 

The French remark, that English cooking (from which 
our American cooking is mainly derived) is little varied, with 
few dishes, chiefly roast meats, with some fried or boiled fish, 
and very few vegetables, which are cooked in water with 
nothing but salt ; that the English white sauce is made merely 
of water and flour; and that, to season and vary the taste of 
those dishes, sauces are bought ready made at groceries ; such 
as Harvey sauce for cold meats, mushroom catchup for steaks 
and chops, anchovy sauce for flavoring white sauces, lemon 
sauce wherever lemon juice might be used. The English evi- 
dently eat a smaller proportion of vegetables than the French 
do. In 1881, at the first-class table of a renowned British 
line of steamers in the East, the only vegetables, day after 
day, were potatoes and cabbage; but, now, competition has 
made a great change, and the vegetables on steamers of the 
same line are more varied, and the cooking good, apparently 
under French supervision. With a strong preponderance of 
meat in the diet, and consequently an excess of fat already, 
it is perhaps quite natural that the white sauce should be 
made only of water and flour without the addition of butter. 
The great excess of protein and fat taken with their meat 
leads the English and Americans to crave counterbalancing 
sweet dishes, puddings, preserves and cakes, for dessert, or in 
another meal, in larger proportion and greater variety than is 
customary in France. 

It may be thought that cravings alone, hitherto practically 
the only guide, would fully suffice for the selection of food and 



METHODS IN GENERAL. 



79 



for determining proper proportions in a diet; because agree- 
able combinations, pleasing to the palate, may really be con- 
sidered as suited to our instinctive taste from the very fact 
that they contain the needed nutritive elements. But we must 
reflect that our present natural instinct in such matters is, 
under our pampered modern conditions, much blunted, com- 
pared with its original keenness in the primitive days of the 
inexorable, yet (for the race) salutary, sway of purely natural 
selection, when the violation of its inflexible laws resulted in 
the speedy extirpation of the offender, not to be coddled along 
for many years, and enabled to propagate his corrupted tastes 
through several gradually declining generations. It is, in- 
deed, to be feared that in these really pitiable tobacco, tea and 
coffee days, these ages of the open and even religiously en- 
couraged devotion to the individual's " pursuit of happiness " 
(generally understood as pleasure), the majority, if only 
guided by cravings, would be likely to vote for sybaritic, im- 
mediate and momentary self-indulgence in perhaps grossly 
depraved appetites, at the cost of the sound, eventually 
permanent and racial welfare of perfect health, with its in- 
comparably higher and more precious enjoyments, the rich 
substance behind mere outward tempting, tinsel display. 

Cookery books, taking cravings alone as their principal 
guide, have hitherto been written almost exclusively with 
reference to the gratification of the palate; and in doing so 
have not been without the support of some strong reasons. 
For the uncontaminated instinctive taste and preference indi- 
cated by the palate are doubtless good signs of what is whole- 
some and beneficial nourishment. Yet in many cases the habit 
of individuals, or the fashion set by relatives and friends, leads 
the instinct astray, and prevents the natural choice of the 
palate, so far as to occasion the eating of food injurious to the 
health. It is well, therefore, to guard against the uncertainty 
of the indications of mere liking by a consideration of the 
chemical composition of the different articles of food, the best 
guide to their real nutritive value. Even Kitchiner, the 
renowned author of the " Cook's Oracle," written with especial 
reference to pleasing the palate, speaks with commendation 
of " the rational epicure who makes nourishment the main 
end of eating." The nutritive value of a food, of a dish, or 
of a combination of dishes, or a meal, should therefore be 



80 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

constantly borne in mind, while preparing and selecting re- 
ceipts for a cookery book. 

In general, then, a careful consideration of the chemical 
composition of the foods must be very helpful towards attain- 
ing the desired proportions of the model, or ideal, diet, the 
average diet of all mankind, by means of counterbalancing an 
excess in one direction by an excess in another, either in a 
separate meal, or in another part of one meal; or, perhaps 
still better by combining articles in one dish, so as to effect 
the right proportion. Such well balanced dishes are par- 
ticularly agreeable and satisfying, not creating a craving or 
thirst for some other counterbalancing dish. It is one ad- 
vantage of a vegetable diet that the extremes of such un- 
desirable inequalities of composition are less excessive than in 
the case of all flesh-foods, and are, therefore, much less 
harmful and far more easily counterbalanced and corrected. 
The satisfactory combining and balancing of the chemical 
components of a dish have hitherto been accomplished by re- 
peated trial and careful, keen perception of the immediate 
and subsequent results of each experiment. By means of the 
tables of the composition of different foods, the end aimed at 
may more easily and surely be reached; and, at least, gross 
errors may be avoided, like a certain beginner's bold ex- 
periment of adding sweet fruit to a vegetable curry, with an 
outrageously mawkish effect. 

KINDS OF VEGETARIAN FOODS. 

As the composition of vegetable foods is, then, their most 
important characteristic, and is the best guide to their treat- 
ment and combination with one another, let us, in the main, 
classify and group the dishes to be described, not according 
to the cooking methods (sauces, soups, boiled, fried, stewed, 
roasted and the like), but to the character of the articles 
cooked; in general, according to their composition, and more 
particularly to their physiological character, since this usually 
decides the methods of preparation. The sauces will be found 
mostly under the preparations made chiefly with butter or oil; 
the soups and stews will be found among the vegetables, the 
salads mostly among the leafy vegetables. Where several 
vegetables are cooked together without special prominence to 
one of them, the dish will be found towards the end of the 



KINDS OF VEGETARIAN FOODS. 81 

smaller or larger group containing those vegetables. Of 
course, the alphabetical index will be a ready guide to find 
any particular vegetable or dish. 

The order of arrangement of the groups and within the 
groups will be according to the percentage of protein, pro- 
ceeding from the richest in protein to the poorest. We shall 
begin, therefore, with eggs, and next take up milk and dairy 
products ; including both those groups also, because many with 
vegetarian leanings yet adhere not only to milk but to eggs, 
which are free from some of the important objections to meat, 
and may readily be taken in such small quantities as not 
seriously to overbalance the proper proportion of protein and 
fat. 

EGGS. 

Many who mainly live on vegetable food are yet willing, at 
least occasionally, to eat eggs, especially during the transition 
period of abandoning a meat diet, before being well aware 
how to select properly nourishing vegetables. For, to many, 
eggs seem, on various grounds, less objectionable than meat; 
though to some, if not all, they are not altogether wholesome, 
but too constipating. In our western world, hen's eggs are 
found preferable to others, and are practically the only ones 
eaten; but in China duck eggs are more highly esteemed, and 
that, too, when the eggs are many weeks old. Owing to the 
more or less frequent use of hen's eggs even in an otherwise 
mainly vegetarian diet, methods of preparing or cooking them 
will be described in the present work. 

Our general table shows that hen's eggs contain, aside 
from water, these percentages: protein, 56.2; fat, 39.9; ash, 
3.9. It is evident, then, that the protein and fat are both 
greatly in excess of what a model diet needs, and that the 
ash is of very moderate amount, and the carbohydrates are 
wholly lacking. It is, indeed, material for forming all the 
muscle and fuel of the young chick; not, as our model diet, 
for replacing merely the muscle as it wears away, and sup- 
plying the fuel required for active work. As food, then, eggs 
should be combined or associated with other foods that, like 
all vegetable products, are less excessive in protein, and, like 
all of them except the nuts, less rich in fat. Eggs are cooked 
either by themselves, or are combined with other materials in 
thickening sauces or dishes, or as enrichment of cakes and 
the like. 



82 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

MILK AND DAIRY PRODUCTS. 

Milk and dairy products seem to almost every vegetarian 
an unobjectionable and highly acceptable addition to purely 
vegetable foods, and they are accordingly to be included in 
making up our assemblage of dishes. Agreeable as they may 
be to our early mammalian nursing and long inherited tastes, 
they certainly cannot be considered wholly necessary articles 
of food; for, in Japan, milk and its derivative products were, 
forty years ago, practically altogether lacking, and yet were 
not missed; and milk even seriously disagreed with unaccus- 
tomed adults. Of course, babies really need food of a different 
chemical composition from what an adult requires ; for they 
must rapidly form new muscles, and not merely replace what 
is worn out by use. Their food, then, should apparently be 
richer in protein than what is needful to grown men. More- 
over we shall see that there is a wholly satisfactory, in some 
respects a better, vegetable substitute (terralac) for milk, of 
practically identical composition. 

Whole milk, as seen in our table, contains (disregarding 
water) about one-half more protein than a model diet requires, 
and twice as much fat as such a diet, and about as much 
ash as the average of all foods; leaving not much more than 
half the requirement of carbohydrates. Milk, then, goes well 
with foods that are deficient in fat, somewhat deficient in 
protein, and abounding in carbohydrates. Butter is almost 
pure fat, and can be used to supply its lack in other foods. 
Cheese, on the other hand, contains more than twice as much 
protein and more than three times as much fat as a model 
diet requires; and carbohydrates are almost wholly lacking. 
It can, therefore, supply the protein and fat that other articles 
of food lack; and may either be cooked in the same dish with 
such articles, or be eaten separately, or in association with 
them. 

VEGETABLES. 

The vegetables proper may satisfactorily be divided into 
seven groups, according to their physiological character; and 
there is in general, within each group, much resemblance in 
composition, as well as consequently in the methods of cook- 
ing or preparation for the table, and in their sauces or as- 
sociation with one another. The groups and the percentages 



VEGETABLES. Od 

of the dry composition of their members, and their means, are 

shown, so far as information is at hand, in the following table: 

1. Shoots. Protein 

Asparagus 30.3 

Mushroom 29.4 

Mean 29.9 

2. Pulse. 

Soy bean, dried (Abel) 38.1 

Peanut, dried 28.4 

Lentil, dried (Abel) 28.1 

Cowpea, shelled (Abel) 27.6 

Green pea, shelled 27.6 

Peas, dried -1:1 

Navy bean, dried •!'>.! 

Cowpea, dried 24. G 

Frijol, dried (Abel) 23.7 

Kidney bean, shelled (Abel) 22.9 

Lima bean, shelled 22.5 

Asparagus bean, whole pods ( Abel ) 22.4 

String-bean (Abel) 21.3 

Lima-bean, dried (Abel) 20.3 

Sugar pea, or string pea (Abel) . 18.7 

Chick pea dried (Abel) 14.6 

Carob bean, St. John's bread, dried 

(Abel) 7.0 

Mean 23.6 

3. Leaves. 

Spinach 27.3 

Lettuce 22.2 

Celery 20.4 

Cabbage 19.2 

Mean of 4 22.3 

Rhuburb (leaf-stem) 11.7 

Mean of 5 20.2 

4. Herbaceous Fbuits. 

Banana (Encyc. Brit. ) 18.5 

Eggplant 16.2 

Tomato 15.8 

Okra 15.8 

Mean 16.6 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


4.1 


54.5 


11.1 


3.4 


57.1 


10.1 


3.7 


55.8 


10.6 


18.8 


37.8 


5.3 


42.5 


26.9 


2.2 


1.1 


64.6 


6.2 


1.7 


66.6 


4.1 


2.0 


66.5 


3.9 


1.1 


68.5 


3.2 


2.1 


68.2 


4.0 


1.6 


69.9 


3.9 


1.4 


70.4 


4.6 


1.4 


70.8 


4.9 


2.2 


69.9 


5.4 


2.5 


69.1 


6.0 


2.8 


68.5 


7.4 


1.6 


73.5 


4.6 


2.2 


75.3 


3.8 


7.8 


74.3 


3.3 


1.5 


88.6 


2.9 


5.5 


66.5 


4.4 


3.9 


41.5 


27.3 


4.4 


55.6 


17.8 


2.3 


59.1 


18.2 


1.7 


66.8 


12.3 


3.1 


55.7 


18.9 


11.8 


64.7 


11.8 


4.8 


57.5 


17.5 


2.4 


76.1 


3.0 


4.4 


72.3 


7.1 


7.0 


68.4 


8.8 


3.2 


75.1 


5.9 


4.2 


73.0 


6.2 



84 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

5.»Uneipe Cebeals. 

Greencorn, fresh (Wiley) 18.5 

Greencorn 12.6 

Mean 15-5 

6. GOUEDS. Protein 

Cucumber 17.9 

Pumpkin 13.8 

Squash 12.0 

Mean 14.6 

7. Roots. 
Radish, edible portion, doubtful 

(Wiley) 15.9 

Beet 13.0 

Onion 12.6 

Turnip 12.3 

Potato 10.3 

Carrot 10.0 

Parsnip 9.6 

Jerusalem- artichoke 6.9 

Sweet potato 5.7 

Mean 10.7 

Each group comprises, besides those tabulated, also a num- 
ber of other vegetables that are in use, and their composition 
is supposed not to differ greatly from the mean of each re- 
spective group. The canned vegetables and succotash are 
omitted from this table, as not giving the composition of single 
vegetables unsophisticated by any additions. Peanuts are 
sometimes placed among the nuts, to which their composition 
closely allies them, instead of under pulse, to which however, 
they botanically belong, and with which they are included in 
our table. 

It is noticeable at a glance that all of the roots and the 
pumpkin, squash, Atwater's greencorn and rhubarb, have too 
little of the muscle-building protein, the nitrogenous com- 
ponent, to form by themselves a satisfactory food. But all 
the shoots, pulse, leaves (except rhubarb) and Wiley's green- 
corn have a considerable surplus of protein beyond what is 
required for a model diet, and can be associated with any of 
those vegetables that have an insufficient amount of protein, 
in order to give the whole diet a wholly suitable proportion. 



2.2 


76.7 


2.6 


4.5 


80.1 


2.8 


3.4 


78.4 
Carbo- 


2.7 


Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


5.1 


66.7 


10.3 


1.8 


74.3 


10.1 


3.4 


77.7 


6.9 


3.4 


72.9 


9.1 


4,9 


70.7 


8.5 


1.0 


77.0 


9.0 


2.7 


80.2 


4.5 


1.4 


78.1 


8.2 


0.6 


84.5 


4.6 


3.7 


77.4 


S.9 


2.9 


79.4 


8.1 


0.8 


87.1 


5.2 


2.4 


88.3 


3.6 


2.3 


80.3 


6.7 



NUTS. 85 

It is likewise clear that all the vegetables and especially the 
roots and pulse, and the gourds, too, are decidedly deficient in 
the proportion of fat found desirable in any popular diet. The 
deficiency can readily be made good by the addition of nuts, 
so rich in fat: or by butter, or the several palatable vegetable 
oils, either separately, or in cooking, or in a sauce or a salad 
dressing. It is plain that such reasons and not mere flavor, 
be at the foundation of many of the culinary methods of com- 
bining ingredients, and associating vegetables or dishes. But 
the flavor, too, is pleasing, when the instinctive craving for 
each kind of nourishment in its due proportion is correctly 
satisfied. The table further shows that all the leaves have 
an inordinate amount of ash, and the shoots and the cucumber 
and pumpkin a rather large amount of ash, and the herbaceous 
fruits and the squash a fully large amount of it, but all kinds 
of pulse a small amount of ash. Of course, the larger the 
amount of ash, the higher becomes the proportion of any given 
percentage of protein to the other (in equal degree less large) 
ingredients ; for example, the tomato and okra having the same 
percentage of protein, but the tomato more ash, the protein 
bears a higher composition to the fat and carbohydrates in the 
tomato than in the okra. 

NUTS. 

The percentage dry composition of twenty-two nuts is 
shown in the following table: 

Vttt«j Carbo- 

- 1 °* Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

Pine nut, Pinus sabiniana( Wiley) 29.6 56.6 8.8 5.0 

Butternut 29.2 63.9 3.8 3.1 

Black walnut 28.5 57.7 11.8 2.0 

Almonds, European (Wiley) 25.0 56.4 15.3 3.3 

Beechnut, European (Wiley) 23.9 46.6 25.2 4.3 

Pistachio nut (Wiley) 23.3 56.4 17.0 3.3 

Beechnut, American (Wiley) ... 22.8 59.8 13.7 3.7 

Chocolate (Payen) 22.2 57.8 15.6 4.4 

Almonds (California) 22.0 57.7 18.2 2.1 

Brazil nut 18.0 70.5 7.3 4.2 

English walnut 16.9 65.0 16.6 1.5 

Filbert 16.3 67.9 13.4 2.4 

Hickory nut 15.9 70.1 11.8 2.2 

Pinon nut, Pinus edulis 15.1 64.1 17.8 3.0 

Chocolate 14.7 51.8 31.2 2.3 

Pecan, polished 11.5 73.3 13.7 1.5 





Carbo- 




Fat 


hydrates 


Ash 


9.7 


76.6 


2.4 


7.4 


78.9 


2.4 


39.0 


50.0 


2.6 


63.1 


27.2 


2.9 


58.9 


32.5 


2.0 


59.5 


32.6 


1.4 


55.2 


24.5 


2.8 



86 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Protein 

Chestnut, fresh 11.3 

Chestnut, dried 11.3 

Acorn (Wiley) 8.4 

Pine nut, Pinus monophylla 

(Wiley) 6.8 

Coconut 6.6 

Coconut, prepared 6.5 

Mean 17.5 

The nuts have on the average, a larger percentage of 
protein, the nitrogenous, muscle-building element, than is re- 
quired for the model human diet, and have a very small per- 
centage of ash; but have, for vegetable foods, a very unusual 
proportion of fatty matter, and consequently a small share of 
carbohydrates. Acorns, monophylla pinenuts and coconuts 
alone have a very much smaller percentage of protein than 
the mean of all these nuts ; and in addition, only pinon nuts, 
Atwood's chocolate, pecans and chestnuts have decidedly less 
protein than the model diet requires. The richness of nuts 
in fat, with, at the same time, a good amount of protein and 
little ash, make them highly suitable for mixture in a dish, or 
association in a diet, with vegetables, cereals and fruits, all 
very poor in fat, and the cereals also rather poor in protein, 
so as to bring about a satisfactory mean of the whole food. 
Accordingly, we see nuts eaten, not only by themselves, but 
mixed with sugar in taffy and other sweetmeats and in cake. 
When cooked, it is generally only by baking or roasting, 
though walnuts, chestnuts, and probably other nuts sometimes 
occur in soups, stews and sweetmeats or pickles. 

CEREALS. 

The percentage dry composition of thirty-two cereals, in- 
cluding a few preparations from them, is shown in the fol- 
lowing table: 

Cereals. 

Oat breakfast food 18.1 7.9 7.7 2.3 

Oat flour, mean of a number 

(Wiley) 16.8 8.1 73.2 1.9 

Wheat flour, low grade 15.9 2.2 80.9 1.0 

Whole wheat bread 15.7 1.5 80.7 2.1 

Entire wheat flour 15.6 2.1 81.2 1.1 



ST 



Protein 
Oats hulled, mean of 170 analyses 

(Wiley) 15.4 

Wild rice (Woods & Snyder) .... 15.2 

Graham flour 15.0 

Macaroni, spaghetti, vermicelli 

and Italian paste 14.0 

White bread 14.2 

Rye bread 14.0 

Barley, whole grain (Woods & 

Snyder) 13.0 

Graham bread 13.0 

Rye, mean of many hundred 

analyses (Wiley) 13.7 

Wheat average of all kinds 

(Wiley) 13.7 

Wheat breakfast food 13.4 

Kafir corn meal (Woods A Sny- 
der) 13.3 

Oyster crackers 11.0 

Barley, flaked, steam - cooked 

(Woods ft Snyder) 11.6 

Maize, typical, or average (Wiley) 11.2 
Buckwheat, coarse flour (Wiley) 11.0 

Corn meal 10.5 

Cream crackers 10.4 

Soda crackers 10.4 

Buckwheat, fine flour (Wiley) .. 0.0 
Barley, pearled (Woods & Snyder) 9.G 

Brown bread 9.6 

Bice 9.1 

Maize flour, degerminated ( Wiley) 8.2 

Cake 7.9 

Bye flour 7.8 

Buckwheat flour 7.4 

Mean 12.5 





Carbo- 




F;lt 


hydrates 


Ash 


8.7 


73.6 


■J.:; 


1.0 


S2.0 


l.S 


2.5 


80.5 


2.0 


1.0 


82.6 


1.5 


2.0 


82.1 


1.7 


0.0 


82.8 


2.3 


2.0 


81.4 


2.7 


2.8 


81.0 


2.3 


1.7 


82.5 


2.1 


2.0 


82.3 


2.0 


2.0 


S3. 2 


1.4 


O.C 


83.0 


2.5 


11.0 


74.1 


3.0 


0.0 


86.5 


1.0 


4.7 


S2.4 


1.7 


2.7 


S4.6 


1.7 


2.2 


86.2 


1.1 


13.0 


74.8 


1.8 


0.7 


77.7 


2.2 


1.8 


86.2 


2.1 


1.2 


87.9 


1.3 


3.2 


83.5 


3.7 


0.3 


90.1 


0.5 


1.5 


89.6 


0.7 


11.2 


79.0 


1.9 


1.0 


90.4 


0.8 


1.4 


90.2 


1.0 


3.6 


82.1 


1.8 



The cereals average remarkably little ash and little fat, 
and a very high percentage of carbohydrates, yet a good 
amount (an average of 12.5 per cent.) of protein; oats have 
even more protein than what is needful for the model diet, 
and wheat, about enough. The lack of fat is readily sup- 
plied by butter, or some of the several palatable vegetable 
oils, or by a combination with nuts, which we have seen to be 
so rich in fat. The cereals are commonly too dry and hard to 



88 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

be eaten raw, but are cooked in many ways, as bread, hard 
or soft, macaroni, porridge, mush, hominy, puddings and the 
like. Unripe maize is succulent enough to be used as a 
vegetable. It is possible that palatable dishes might be made 
from other unripe cereals; though the difficulty of removing 
the outer integuments might be too great. 

TREE-FRUITS, BERRIES AND MELONS. 

The percentage dry composition of twenty-one tree-fruits, 
berries and melons is shown in the following table: 

Carbo- 
Protein Fat hydrates Ash 

Tree Fruits, Bebbies and Melons. 

Raspberry (Wiley) 10.7 6.3 79.2 3.8 

Strawberry 9.9 6.6 76.9 6.6 

Blackberry (Wiley) 9.5 7.3 79.6 3.6 

Lemon 9.3 6.7 78.7 5.3 

Raspberry 7.1 ... 88.7 4.2 

Apricot 6.7 1.4 88.5 3.4 

Watermelon 6.5 3.2 87.1 3.2 

Orange 6.3 1.0 88.5 4.2 

Muskmelon 5.8 ... 88.5 5.7 

Grape 5.8 7.1 84.7 2.4 

Alligator pear, avocado (Wiley). 5.3 54.0 36.0 4.7 

Fig 5.3 0.4 91.4 2.9 

Pear 3.6 2.9 89.7 3.8 

Cranberry (Wiley) 3.6 5.4 89.2 1.8 

Lychee (Wiley) 3.5 0.4 94.5 1.6 

Huckleberry (Wiley) 3.3 3.3 91.7 1.7 

Raisin 3.0 3.9 89.1 4.0 

Apple 2.6 2.6 92.3 2.5 

Date 2.5 3.3 92.6 1.6 

Persimmon 2.4 2.1 92.9 2.6 

Apple, dried 2.2 3.1 91.9 2.8 

Mean 5.5 5.8 85.3 3.4 

The fruits, berries and melons, as readily seen in the 
table, are very deficient in protein, or muscle-building, nitro- 
genous material, and in fat, and generally in ash. In a diet 
or dish, then, they are to be associated principally with foods 
that have an excess of protein and fat beyond what the model 
requires ; and are, therefore, particularly acceptable to any 
one who eats meat, so greatly superabounding in protein and 



PRACTICAL DETAILS. ol) 

fat. They are made yet more capable of counterbalancing the 
deficiences of meat by combining them with sugar in preserves 
and jellies. 

VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 

There are, besides, several vegetable products, chiefly se- 
gregations of particular, chemically simple substances, oils 
or carbohydrates, that are useful as foods; such as gelatine 
made from seaweeds, edible oils, sago, tapioca, arrowroot and 
sugar. 

A general view of the classes of natural vegetable foods 
shows, then, that (leaving water out of account) shoots, con- 
taining the vigor of the whole plant, are rich in protein and 
therefore hearty food; pulse, the next richest; herbaceous 
fruits, nuts, cereals and gourds, next, with mainly about the 
requisite proportion for an ideal food ; roots, next ; and tree 
fruits, berries and melons, least of all. Of them all, the nuts 
alone are rich in fat; and the rest are very rich in carbohy- 
drates. 

PRACTICAL DETAILS. 

The instructions here to be given for the preparation of 
dishes will be in great part taken from the French, mainly 
from " La Bonne Cuisine," by E. Dumont, 2d Edition, pub- 
lished about 1875. It is very full and clear in its descrip- 
tion of the whole process of cooking a dish, so that even be- 
ginners succeed easily the first time. It is a merit that is 
perhaps common to all French cookery books, but seems to be 
lacking in many American ones, where the ingredients of a 
dish are apt to be given briefly, and the cook is supposed to 
know already how to proceed with them. " La Cuisiniere de 
la Campagne et de la Ville," by L. E. Audot, in 1901, in 
its 79th edition, a publishing prodigy for France, has also 
been consulted, as well as one or two other French books 
and a considerable number of Franco-American and American 
ones (especially Miss Maria Parloa's " Bulletin 256 
of the United States Agriculture Department," on the 
" Preparation of Vegetables for the Table ") ; so that the re- 
sult is really a compilation far more than original, though 
with a new and, it is hoped, not altogether chaotic, arrange- 
ment. Indeed, it would be arrant presumption for one un- 
happily in practice so ignorant of the art to undertake an 



90 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

original work on the subject. The different paragraphs that 
are substantially taken from the French will be marked at 
the end (" Fr.") and those from American books, or English, 
with their author's names. The intention is to lean towards 
the plain, elementary and time-honored dishes, such as are 
altogether indispensable to any woman, and worthy of at least 
the attention and acquaintance of every man. Miss Parloa, 
high authority, says, the simpler the methods, the better; and 
we shall consider them, rather than the elaborate, fanciful, 
and novel ones, which the practitioner may indulge in, and 
devise, after thoroughly acquiring the rudiments. It is also 
desired to show that cooking may be satisfactorily accom- 
plished without the help of animal accessories (for instance, 
lard and animal gelatine) that are obviously disgusting either 
in themselves or in their origin, and therefore apt to be un- 
wholesome. 

Other nations, though less skilful than the French in cook- 
ing, have their special meritorious and appetizing vegetarian 
dishes, well worthy of introduction into our kitchens, and 
capable of most agreeably adding much to the variety of our 
repasts. The Italians have their risotto and other dishes, and 
the Spaniards and Spanish-Americans have savory dishes al- 
most unknown to us. The Hindoos, who cook well, have their 
excellent vegetable curries. The Chinese are good cooks, 
though less narrow in their choice of animal foods than we 
westerners are (yet their edible dog is fed on rice, and the 
tales of their eating rats are said to be founded merely on 
occasional practice in the utmost poverty) ; and doubtless we 
could greatly benefit by adopting some of their vegetable 
dishes. The Chinese and Japanese make a highly digestible 
and nourishing white curd from beans ; and it might probably 
be very advantageously produced in western countries, and 
could perhaps be made more palatable to us than it is in its 
simplest condition in the Far East, as in some of its forms 
it is already delectable. The Armenians have delicious curds 
and other dishes made with milk. Tt is very desirable that 
these foreign vegetable dishes should be received among us 
without any foolish prejudice against them as novelties. They 
would toothsomely further vary our already considerable 
repertory of wholesome, palatable and nourishing dishes. A 
few of the strange dishes will herein be described, but no 
doubt many more are to be found in the numerous practically 
vegetarian countries. 



PRACTICAL DETAILS. VI 

Extreme precision in the proportion of ingredients in any 
cooking compound is not to be expected ; for the sense of taste 
is not so exacting, or so unvarying in different individuals, 
and the chemical composition of the ingredients is not gen- 
erally so rigorously known, nor so uniform, as to make such 
excessive nicety of proportion worth while ; nor, moreover, 
does the stomach care for it. It is, therefore, usually not 
necessary to weigh out the solid ingredients with scales, or to 
measure the liquids with a graduated glass ; but it may be 
taken roughly that: 

40 drops make 1 teaspoonful. 
60 drops make 1 dessertspoonful. 
80 drops make 1 tablespoonful. 

8 tablespoonfuls make 1 gill. 

4 gills make 1 pint. 

8 gills make 1 quart. 

1 wineglassful makes y a prill, or 2 liquid ounces. 

1 teacupful, or 1 after-dinner cofTeecupful, makes 1 gill, or 4 liquid 
ounces. 

1 tumblerful, or 1 common cupful, makes 2 pills, or '/> pint. 
Of butter: 

1 walnut-size piece (1% cubic inches) weighs about 1 ounce. 
y 2 gill, or 1 egpr-size piece, weighs about 2 ounces. 

1 gill 'weighs about 4 ounces, or % pound. 

1 cupful (2 gills) weighs about Vs pound (scant). 
Of granulated sugar: 

1 cupful weighs about 8 ounces, or y 2 pound. 

1 pint weighs about 1 pound (scant). 
Of wheat flour: 

1 cupful (y 3 pint) weighs about 4 ounces, or Vi pound. 

1 quart weighs about 1 pound. 
The meat of 10 average eggs weighs about 1 pound, it is said. 

A hot oven means one that is heated to 450 degrees ; 
"quick," 400; "moderate," 350; "steady," 300, and "slow," 
250. 

By one not the possessor of a thermometer the degree of 
heat can be tested with a piece of white paper. If, when 
left in the oven for three minutes with the door shut, it should 
turn a good chocolate brown, the oven is " hot ;" if a cigar 
brown, it is " quick ;" if yellowish brown, it is " moderate," if 
yellow, " slow." If it should burn, the oven is too hot for 
any kind of cooking; if it does not color at all, it is too cold 
for anything. (Philadelphia Ledger.) 



92 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

FOODS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN. 

EGGS. 

Take preferably hens' eggs ; they are more delicate. The 
size is of little consequence; but, above all, they should be 
very fresh. In buying them, make sure of their freshness by 
holding them up to the light; if they do not let any light pass 
through, do not buy them. Mistrust them especially in winter ; 
when eggs are dear, hens do not lay, and eggs kept over from 
the summer are apt to be offered for sale. You must, further, 
examine the eggs, when you break them, before putting them 
into any preparation; for they may look good and yet have a 
bad taste. Examine them one by one, and do not mix them in, 
until you are certain of their perfect quality; a single bad egg 
spoils a whole dish. (Fr.) 

Keeping Eggs. — Eggs keep fresh a long time in cold 
water, sometimes having still their milk at the end of ten or 
twelve days, if put into fresh water as soon as laid, changing 
the water from time to time. The milk of eggs is the sign of 
the greatest freshness; for the white cooked clear has the 
milky look only in eggs of the same day. But to keep eggs 
for the winter, a method requiring less time and care must 
be used. They are sometimes in the country kept buried in 
ashes ; but in a town house it is better to use lime-water ; put 
into about four gallons of water (more or less, according to 
the number of your eggs) two or three big lumps of quick- 
lime, and let them soak a week, stirring them every day. Place 
the eggs in earthen jars or in casks; fill up with the lime- 
water, without stirring it beforehand, nor using the undis- 
solved sediment. Cover them up, and put them in a cool 
place. There should be at least two or three inches of water 
above the eggs. Do not take out the eggs, except as you need 
to use them; and remove them with very clean utensils. Do 
not replace those you have touched. (Fr.) — Liquid glass 
(silicate of soda), bought at the druggist's, is used for pre- 
serving eggs. The eggs are put into a stone crock; liquid 
glass is poured in, like water, until it closes the mouth of the 
crock. The air with its germs is thereby kept out; and when 
the eggs are needed, they can be dipped up with a ladle. 
(Philadelphia Ledger.') — The eggs may simply be coated with 
the liquid glass ; and as, after drying, it is not soluble again, 



EGGS. 93 

it makes the egg-shell proof against germs and waterproof. 
Another way is to dip the eggs for three seconds into boiling 
water containing five pounds of brown sugar to the gallon; 
thereby, a thin skin of hard albumen forms (from the heat) 
inside the shell, and the sugar seals the outer pores. The 
eggs are dried and cooled on trays, and then packed in bran 
mixed with half its bulk of charcoal ; and, it is said, keep un- 
altered for six months. (Philadelphia Bulletin.) — Of late 
years, vast quantities of eggs are kept many months in cold 
storage. 

An easy and, it is said, efficient method of preserving eggs 
is to wash them in clean cold water, and then butter, and put 
them in a cool place. They will keep for virtually any length 
of time. The cheapest oleomargarine may be used, and only 
about one ounce to fifty eggs is necessary. Eggs treated in 
this way, it is said, can be sent from the Antipodes and arrive 
fit for the most fastidious appetite. (Philadelphia Ledger.) 

In American cities, some 95 per cent, of the eggs used 
at New Year's have been kept in storage from the previous 
April. The very thin coating of mucilaginous matter that pro- 
tects a fresh-laid egg from atmospheric action, wears off dur- 
ing storage, exposing to the air minute pores in the shell and 
allowing microbes to enter and cause the yolk to ferment. A 
storage egg has a shine or gloss on the shell. Large dealers 
simply store the eggs in a room kept at freezing temperature, 
about 32 degrees. Smaller dealers often pack eggs in lime, 
salt or straw; but the natural flavor suffers. Eggs are skil- 
fully tested by holding them towards an electric light. If 
the light seen through the shell is unclouded and even, the 
yolk is fit to eat; but a shrunken, partly incubated yolk 
shows its upper edge to the experienced eye by a thin dis- 
colored, almost imperceptible line inside the shell. It is said 
that the method is infallible, and that an expert can tell how 
many months old the egg is. Many packed eggs crack, on ac- 
count of a little gas that all eggs are said to contain; but 
immediately after breaking are used for omelets at hotels and 
restaurants. Bakers claim that packed eggs do not beat up 
well for cakes or frosting. Eggs frozen during shipment in 
extremely cold weather, can with proper care and moderate 
temperature be restored, but with some loss of flavor and a 
softening of the yolk. (Philadelphia Ledger.) The bright- 
light testers of eggs briefly name three classes of them: good 



94 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

eggs, " spots " and " rots." The " spots " are used by con- 
fectioners in making sweet cakes. 

Preparation for Eating. — Eggs are eaten raw, boiled, 
poached, scrambled, and as an omelet, and as custards and 
merangs. 

Raw Eggs. — Raw eggs are quite digestible, and may either 
be sucked from the shell in the manner proverbially known to 
everybody's grandmother, or may be broken into a glass, and 
swallowed with a little sherry, which supplies some of the 
carbohydrate that is lacking to the egg as a model food. 

Eggnog. — Break a raw egg into a tumbler; add some 
spirit, say, whisky, or brandy, more or less, according to taste, 
and two or three lumps of white sugar; fill up with milk. 
Cover the tumbler with strong, glazed writing paper, folding 
it down tightly around the edge of the glass; over the paper 
carefully place a clean napkin, and twist it tightly below the 
bottom of the glass, and hold it there firmly. Then shake the 
glass up and down until the lumps of sugar are no longer 
heard to rattle. On removing the napkin and paper, the egg- 
nog will be found thoroughly mixed and somewhat foamy, 
ready to drink. Of course, the same ingredients may be mixed 
in a more commonplace manner, with nearly the same result. 

Heated Eggs. — Put an egg into boiling water just taken 
from the fire; in five minutes it will be cooked, and with the 
white less solid, compact and " heavy," or indigestible, than if 
kept boiling. The same result is attained by putting the egg 
into cold water, and removing it as soon as the water has be- 
gun to boil. If it be desired to cook the egg still more, a fresh 
quantity of boiling water may be taken to replace the cooled 
water. 

Eggs in the Shell. — When the water boils with big 
bubbles, put the eggs in, with care not to break them ; let them 
cook three minutes in summer, three minutes and a half in 
winter; take them out quickly, and serve them up in a napkin 
folded so as to keep them warm. (Fr.) 

Soft Eggs. — Cook in the same way as eggs in the shell, 
but a little longer, four minutes. Put the eggs into cold water, 
remove the shell, and serve up with whatever garnish you 
please. (Fr.) 



EGGS. 95 

Hard Eggs. — Are cooked like eggs in the shell, but let 
them cook nine or ten minutes. (Fr.) 

Hard Eggs for Salad. — Boil the eggs hard, remove the 
shell, cut them in round slices, put them in a salad bowl, place 
upon them parsley and scallion, both chopped fine, or chervil, 
tarragon, scallion, burnet and the like, all chopped fine. 
Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, like an ordinary 
salad. (Fr.) 

Poached Eggs. — Choose very fresh eggs. Three-quarters 
fill with water a saucepan that is not too deep; put in a little 
salt and vinegar. When the water begins to boil, break the 
eggs into it one after another, with great care and as close 
to the water as possible; so that the eggs do not fall too far, 
nor the yolk break. Do not put in too many at a time; so that 
they may not stick to one another. It is better to put in too 
few than too many, even if you must do the poaching several 
times. Let the eggs cook, but without boiling in great bubbles, 
four or five minutes at most. The yolk should continue clear. 
Poaching requires much care and dexterity. Poached eggs 
can be served up on a white sauce, either Parisian or Nor- 
man; or on a sorrel mash; or on a tomato sauce. (Fr.) 

Fried Eggs. — Fried eggs require much care, to be well 
fried and very uniform. You can hardly fry more than one 
at a time, unless you have a dish, or a frying-pan, with a series 
of depressions capable of holding a soup-ladle. If you have 
to prepare a large number of eggs cook them one by one in 
an iron dipper, which you consecrate to this use. Put into 
the dipper, or into each depression of the frying-pan, some 
butter as large as an English walnut, or a spoonful of oil; 
heat it well; break into it an egg, cook it two minutes; turn 
the egg, and let it cook a minute; serve up. Fried eggs are 
very good. (Fr.) 

Black-butter Eggs. — Put into a frying-pan a good piece 
of butter; let it brown to a dark chestnut color; break the 
eggs into it with great care; sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Cook five or six minutes; let the eggs slide into a dish; pour 
the butter upon them; serve up. The white must be solid, 
and the yolk as liquid as possible. A dash of vinegar goes 
pretty well with these eggs; warm the vinegar in the frying- 
pan where you cooked the eggs, and pour it on the eggs. (Fr.) 



96 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Eggs with White Sauce. — Boil some eggs hard, or boil 
them soft; remove the shell, and serve up on a Parisian or 
Norman white sauce acidulated with sorrel. If the eggs are 
hard, they can be cut in two. Sprinkle with parsley chopped 
fine, if you like it. (Fr.) 

Eggs with Sorrel. — Boil some eggs hard, or soft; remove 
the shell, and serve up on a sorrel mash (p. 181). If the eggs 
are hard they can be cut in two. (Fr.) 

Eggs with Bechamel Sauce. — Boil the eggs hard; re- 
move the shell; cut them in slices; put them into a bechamel 
sauce (p. 121); warm, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Eggs in Tripe Fashion. — Brown some butter; put into it 
a good quantity of onions cut in thin round slices (one 
medium-sized onion for two eggs). When the onion has taken 
a fine color, add to it some hard-boiled eggs cut in round 
slices and some milk, mixed with a pinch of flour; put in salt 
and pepper; simmer a quarter of an hour, and serve up. At 
the moment of serving up, some add a little mustard. (Fr.) 

Mirror Eggs. — Spread a little butter on a dish that will 
bear the fire; break the eggs upon it, with care not to burst 
the yolks; arrange from place to place on the eggs small bits 
of butter as large as filberts, and also, if you have it, very 
small piles of cream; sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little 
nutmeg, if you like it. Cook with fire above and below. Serve 
up, when the white has about set. The yolk should be as 
liquid as possible. (Fr.) 

Mirror Eggs with Asparagus. — Take some small green 
asparagus, cut the tender part in small bits like peas; cook 
them a quarter of an hour in boiling water; put them into a 
saucepan with butter, salt and pepper, a spoonful of water, 
and sprinkle with a little flour; pass them over the fire; put 
them into the bottom of the dish in which you wish to serve 
them up; break upon them the eggs, which you season with 
salt and pepper, and on which you place here and there bits 
of butter as large as filberts, and even a little cream. Cook 
with fire above and below. (Fr.) 

Eggs with Fine Herbs. — Put into a saucepan a piece of 
butter mixed with finely chopped parsley, cibol, scallion (or 
shallot), a spoonful of flour; melt, and mix the whole well 



EGGS. 97 

together; add half a cupful of -water and two spoonfuls of 
brandy; season with salt and pepper. Simmer five or six 
minutes. Upon this sauce serve up hard boiled eggs, soft 
eggs, or even poached eggs. (Fr.) 

Scrambled Eggs. — Put some eggs on a dish with butter, 
salt and pepper, beat and mix them well; put upon a rather 
quick fire, stirring all the time, and lifting up layers with a 
fork, wherever the mixture sets. Crush the layers; and serve 
up. It takes very little time to cook the eggs in this way, 
and the dish must be taken from the fire before the cooking is 
complete for as the dish is very hot, the eggs will continue to 
cook after removal from the fire. (Fr.) 

Scrambled Eggs with Cheese. — Before putting the eggs 
on the fire, thoroughly mix with them a certain quantity of 
grated cheese; a quarter of a pound is enough for twelve 
eggs. (Fr.) 

Scrambled Eggs with Truffles. — A small truffle is 
enough for six eggs. Wash it well; chop up the peel, and cut 
the truffle in small thin slices no broader than the end of 
your little finger; brown slightly in some butter with salt and 
pepper; cool down; mix with the eggs; cook like ordinary 
scrambled eggs. (Fr.) 

Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms. — For six eggs, pick 
over, and wash eight or ten mushrooms; cut them in pieces; 
brown them slightly with butter, salt and pepper; let them 
cool; mix them with the eggs, and cook them like ordinary 
scrambled eggs. (Fr.) 

Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus Tips. — For six eggs take 
a dozen small green asparagus shoots; cut their tender part 
into small bits as large as green peas ; cook them a quarter of 
an hour over a gentle fire with butter, salt and pepper and a 
very little water. Let them cool, mix them with the eggs; 
cook them like ordinary scrambled eggs. The asparagus can 
be replaced by the new shoots of briers, or of hops, arranged 
and prepared in the same way as the asparagus. (Fr.) 

Stuffed Eggs. — For six persons, six eggs. Boil them 
hard ; remove the shell ; cut them in two, in either direction, as 
you please. Take out the yolks, and crush them with a quarter 
of a pound of butter, a little bread soaked in milk, very finely 



98 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

chopped parsley and scallion, salt, pepper, mixing the whole 
well together. With this stuffing fill the halves of the whites 
heaping full. Butter a dish, or pie-plate, sprinkle with finely 
chopped fine herbs, with a little of the stuffing, with salt and 
pepper; add a little cream, if you like it; upon this layer 
set out the stuffed half-eggs; put into a very hot oven, or a 
Dutch oven. Serve up of a fine golden color. (Fr.) 

Plain Omelet. — For six persons, eight eggs. Break them 
into an earthen pan, a soup tureen, or a salad bowl; add fine 
salt and pepper; beat well. In a frying-pan over a quick fire 
melt a quarter of a pound of butter; let it brown slightly; 
when it is quite hot and of a fine color, pour into it the eggs 
prepared as just described; cook with a rather quick fire, tak- 
ing care to lift up with a fork those portions where the omelet 
seems to take too much color, and run the risk of burning be- 
low; so that the upper part of the eggs, which consequently 
would cook too little, may pass below. When the omelet be- 
gins to reach the desirable point of cooking, leave it one or 
two seconds undisturbed; take the frying-pan from the fire; 
make sure with the fork whether the omelet sticks to the pan ; 
let it half slide upon the dish, and fold it over. An omelet 
to be delicate, should not be too much cooked, nor soft; more 
or less, of course according to taste. The handle of the omelet 
frying-pan should be short. It is well to have a special pan 
to use only for omelets, and never scour it, but only wash it 
with boiling water; in that way, the omelets do not stick to 
it. This plain omelet can be served up on a sorrel mash, 
on chopped lettuce or chicory, on a tomato sauce, and the 
like. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Fine Herbs. — Add to the eggs broken, 
mixed and seasoned for a plain omelet, very finely chopped 
parsley and scallion. Cook in the same way as the plain 
omelet. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Asparagus Tips. — For six persons, six eggs. 
Take a dozen small green asparagus shoots ; cut their tender 
part in small bits as large as green peas ; cook them a quarter 
of an hour over a gentle fire, with butter, salt, pepper, a 
spoonful of water, and mix them with eggs prepared as for a 
plain omelet. Cook in the same way as a plain omelet. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Mushrooms. — For six persons, six eggs. 
Take twelve or fifteen fine mushrooms ; pick them over, wash 



EGGS. 99 

them, cut them in pieces; slightly brown them in a sauce-pan 
with butter, fine herbs chopped tine, salt and pepper; let them 
cool, and mix them with eggs prepared as for a plain omelet. 
Cook in the same way as the plain omelet. (Fr.) 

Another Way. — Make a plain omelet; when it has been 
cooked and folded on the dish, slip into the middle of it the 
mushrooms cooked beforehand with butter, fine herbs, salt and 
pepper. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Morels. — For six persons, six eggs. Take 
seven or eight morels ; pick them over, wash them, cut them 
in pieces ; slightly brown them in a sauce-pan with butter, 
salt and pepper; and one or two spoonfuls of water; simmer 
a quarter of an hour; let them cool, and mix them with the 
eggs prepared as for a plain omelet. Cook in the same way 
as a plain omelet (Fr.) 

Another Way. — Make a plain omelet; when it has been 
cooked and folded on the dish, slip into the middle of it the 
morels cooked beforehand with butter, salt and pepper. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Truffles. — For six persons, six eggs. One 
small truffle is enough. Wash it well, chop up its peel and cut 
the truffle into small thin slices no broader than the end of 
your little finger. Slightly brown it in butter with salt and 
pepper; let it cool; mix it with the eggs prepared as for a 
plain omelet. Cook in the same way as a plain omelet. (Fr.) 

Another Way. — Make a plain omelet; when it has been 
cooked and folded on the dish, slip into the middle of it a 
small quantity of stewed truffles. (Fr.) 

Omelet with Onion. — For six persons, eight eggs. Cut 
in very thin round slices two medium-sized onions ; slightly 
brown, and cook of a fine color in a frying-pan with a piece 
of butter half as large as an tgg; let them cool a little; mix 
with the eggs prepared for a plain omelet. Cook in the same 
way as a plain omelet. (Fr.) 

Frothy Omelet. — For six persons, six eggs. Break the 
eggs, putting the whites in one dish and the yolks in another. 
Beat the whites to froth, and mix them with the yolks ; season 
with pepper and salt, and beat the whole together. Cook like 
a plain omelet. This omelet has the advantage of appearing 



100 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

more bulky; but cooking it requires more watchfulness, as it 
easily burns. It can also be made with fine herbs. (Fr.) 

Sugar Omelet. — For six persons, six eggs. Break the 
eggs, putting the whites in one dish and the yolks in another; 
beat the whites a little; add to the yolks two spoonfuls of 
powdered sugar and a little salt ; beat well ; mix the whites and 
the yolks; cook like a plain omelet. When the omelet is 
cooked, sprinkle it with powdered sugar. Slide it upon a dish, 
fold it over, and sprinkle it again with sugar, over which you 
pass a red hot shovel. Serve up warm. (Fr.) 

Rum Omelet. — Make the sugar omelet just described; fold 
it over; sprinkle it abundantly with sugar; pour upon it half 
a cupful of rum; set fire to it at the moment of presenting it 
on the table. (Fr.) 

Preserve Omelet, or Celestine Omelet. — For six 
persons, six eggs. Break, and beat the eggs with a spoonful 
of powdered sugar and a little salt. Cook like a plain omelet, 
but much thinner, not thicker than a quarter-dollar. If the 
frying-pan is too small for thinness enough, make several 
omelets. This omelet, like most sweet ones, should be more 
cooked than other omelets. When it has been cooked and 
folded on the dish, garnish the middle with plum marmalade, 
or even currant jelly. (Fr.) 

Puffed Omelet. — For six persons, five eggs. Break the 
eggs, putting the whites in one dish and the yolks in another. 
Mix the yolks with five spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a little 
strip, as long as your finger, of lemon-zest, or a little powdered 
vanilla, mix and beat well together. Beat the whites to a very 
stiff froth. Quickly mix the whites and yolks; pour them 
upon a thin dish that can bear the fire, having put in the 
bottom of the dish some butter as large as a filbert; put it 
into a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes. Serve it up 
sprinkled with powdered sugar. This dish is one of the most 
delicate and least costly of all the city cooking; only, it must 
be made with great care, and quickly served up, for it cannot 
wait, it falls away. It can be made with more whites than 
yolks without losing its delicacy; and that allows of cooking 
it in a completely flat dish, as the whites hold themselves up 
better than the yolks. 



EGGS. 101 

Baked Water-custard. — For six persons, seven eggs, a 
pint of water. Put into a saucepan a pint of water, a scant 
quarter-pound of sugar; a little strip of lemon-zest, or some 
vanilla as large as your little finger, or, again, a tablespoonful 
of orangeflower water. Boil ten minutes with a small fire; 
let cool. Break the eggs, putting the whites apart. Beat well 
the seven yolks and one white; mix them with the cool sweet 
liquid. Strain through a sieve, or a very fine strainer; put into 
a dish, or into little cream-jars. Let them brown in a hot 
oven. The pieces of vanilla can be used three times, but the 
third time they should be split open; and when they have 
been used, they should be washed in cold water, dried and laid 
aside. (Fr.) 

Baked Milk-custard. — For six persons, six eggs, a pint 
of milk, (or terralac). Put into a sauce-pan the pint of milk 
with a scant quarter-pound of sugar, a little pinch of salt, 
some vanilla as large as your finger, or a spoonful of orange- 
flower water, or, again, a leaf of cherry-laurel. When it boils, 
take it from the fire, and let it cool. Break the eggs ; beat 
them well, whites and yolks together, mix them well with the 
cooled milk; put the liquid into a dish, or small cream-jars; 
brown them in a hot oven. (Fr.) 

Boiled Custard. — Beat eight eggs very light, omitting the 
whites of four. Mix them gradually with a quart of cold milk 
(or terralac) and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Put the 
mixture into a saucepan with a bunch of peach leaves, a 
handful of broken peach kernels, a bitter almond, the yellow 
peel of a lemon, and a handful of broken cinnamon; or you 
may boil in it a vanilla bean. Set it on hot coals, and simmer 
it slowly, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes to a 
boil, take it immediately off the fire, or (if milk has been used) 
it will curdle, and be lumpy. Then strain it; add eight or 
ten drops of oil of lemon, and put it into glass cups. You 
may lay in the bottom of each cup a macaroon soaked in wine. 
Grate nutmeg over the top, and send it to the table cold. 
Eat it with tarts or sweetmeats. Another way of boiling 
custard is to put the mixture into a pitcher. Set it in a vessel 
of boiling water, place it on hot coals or in a stove, and let 
it boil slowly, stirring all the time. (Leslie.) 

Snow-ball Custard. — For six persons, six eggs. Put on 
the fire a pint of milk (or terralac) with a quarter-pound of 



102 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

sugar, a piece of vanilla as long as your finger, or two 
spoonfuls of orangeflower water. While the milk is coming to 
a boil, separate the whites and the yolks of the six eggs. Beat 
the whites to a froth ; they should be quite stiff "and completely 
detached from the salad bowl they are beaten in. Always 
beat the eggs in a cool place, or they will not succeed well. 
Beat with a wire beater, or a fork. When the milk begins 
to boil, let fall into it with a brisk thrust a portion of the 
beaten whites, which you have taken with a tablespoon, and 
of which you have with a knife regularly rounded the top ; 
let fall of such portions as much of the whites as the surface 
of the milk can bear ; after an instant, turn them, let them cook 
a little more, take them out with a skimmer, and place on the 
dish in which you are to present them at the table. When 
all the whites have been cooked, take the milk from the fire, 
add the milk that has drained into the dish from the whites ; 
let it cool. Beat the yolks, that you have put aside. Mix 
them with the milk, which should be almost completely cold; 
put upon the fire again, and stir, until this cream becomes 
somewhat thick ; pour into the dish where you have put the 
cooked whites, but with care, so that the whites floating on 
the cream shall keep white. (Fr.) 

Custard Pie. — Beat four eggs without separating, and add 
the foam as fast as it rises, to one quart of rich new milk 
(or terralac) ; sweeten to your taste; add a saltspoonful of 
salt; fill two already baked paste shells with the custard; 
bake until the custard is solid; serve up the same day, but 
cold — a hot custard is a poor pie— flavor, if you like, with 
nutmeg, vanilla, bitter almond, or lemon. (Haskell.) 

Sambayone Cream. — For eight or ten persons, take six 
very fresh eggs, a cupful, or half a pint, of rum, a quarter- 
pound of powdered sugar. Separate the whites of the eggs 
from the yolks; put the yolks, sugar and rum into a sauce- 
pan, mix them well together; turn them with a wooden spoon 
over a quick fire, until the mixture begins to thicken; take 
from the fire, as otherwise the mixture would turn; add the 
six whites beaten to froth, mix the whole well, and pour into 
cups. The rum can be replaced by Madeira wine or by good 
white wine; but the cream so flavored is decidedly less agree- 
able. If Madeira or white wine be used, add to the mixture 
a pinch of powdered cinnamon. (Fr.) 



EGGS. 103 

Common Merangs. — For twenty-four merangs, beat six 
whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, add six good spoonfuls 
of very finely powdered sugar; fill a spoon with this mixture, 
and with a quick shake let the mixture fall upon a sheet of 
rather thick paper ; in that way make twenty-four little oval 
heaps, far enough apart to spread to double their size; sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and put into a very gentle oven; for 
merangs change color easily, and to be properly cooked, they 
must stay very long in the oven ; remove from the paper and 
serve up on a round lacework paper. (Fr.) 

Merangs with Cream, Preserves and the Like. — Hol- 
low out common merangs a little below ; fill them, at the 
moment of serving up, with whipped Chantilly cream, or 
pastry cream, or Bavarian cheese, or preserves, or vanilla, 
chocolate, or other ice creams. Stick two merangs so filled, 
one against the other ; using twenty-four common merangs for 
twelve merangs so filled. Another, perhaps more common 
method is. for twelve merangs. to make twenty-four common 
merangs in the way already described ; only, when they have 
but slightly changed color in the oven, take them out, pass a 
spoon under them, and push in the uncooked part, then put 
them into the mouth of the oven, and let them finish cooking 
and drying. Let them cool, and, at the moment of serving up, 
fill them, as before described, with cream or preserve. This 
kind of merangs — but unfilled, you understand — can be kept 
a long time in a dry closet. (Fr.) 

White-of-Egg Macaroons. — Beat some whites of eggs to 
a very stiff froth; add to it, for each white of egg, two good 
spoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoonful of almonds chopped very 
fine, or of rose petals, or orangeflower petals, cut very fine 
with scissors ; mix them well. Let the mixture fall upon paper 
in drops as big as a filbert, spread well apart, for they will 
spread out to twice their bulk; put them into an oven that is 
not too hot, so that they will dry, rather than cook. These 
little macaroons can be kept several months, if they are shut 
up in tin boxes, and put in a dry place. (Fr.) 

Egg Sauce. — Beat the yolks of three eggs very light. Froth 
a cupful of cream, and stir it into the eggs, sweeten to suit 
the taste. This is a good sauce for rice; flavoring can be 
added. (Haskell.) 



104 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

DAIRY PRODUCTS. 

MILK AND CREAM. 

Milk is the liquid that issues from the cow's udder. Sweet- 
cream, or floweret (fleurette), is what rises to the top after 
the milk has stood some hours; a thick unctuous liquid; but 
the milk deprived of its floweret becomes much less savory and 
delicate. Sour-cream (creme) is the thick part that forms 
upon milk that has been allowed to curdle in an airy place in 
the summer, or in a warm place in the winter. Floweret in 
one or two days becomes sour-cream. It is with sour-cream 
that butter is made. What remains of the milk, when the 
sour-cream has been removed is, in the South, called clabber 
or bonnyclabber. It is a little acid. It is an excellent re- 
freshing drink in the heat of summer. It can also be drained 
in a fine linen cloth, and eaten with salt, or with sour-cream 
and sugar; and is sold at Paris as white cheese. Sour-cream 
is excellent to eat. When whipped, it makes the dessert dish 
called Chantilly cream. In its ordinary condition it can be 
used instead of oil in the dressing for white salads. It is with 
sour-cream that is made the Norman white sauce, unknown 
to most cooks and so omitted in most cook books. (Fr.) 

Care of Milk. — Milk, perhaps even more than most 
animal food-products, unstable as they all are, is susceptible 
of contamination and uncertain to keep. Boards of health have 
by inspection and advice done much of late years towards im- 
proving the quality of the milk supply; but even sanitarily 
produced milk may quickly be ruined by the consumer's care- 
lessness or ignorance. Most milk troubles come from harmful 
bacteria, microscopic plants, often shortly called germs, that 
are almost omnipresent, and live on dust floating in the air, 
on the filth of the cow's flank and udder, or on dirt in the 
cracks and crevices of utensils, or elsewhere, but are killed 
by boiling, and only propagate slowly at a low temperature. 
Milk utensils must, therefore, not only be kept perfectly free 
from visible dirt, but must be thoroughly sterilized by scald- 
ing, and the milk must be kept cool, at fifty degrees (Fahren- 
heit) or less. The price of milk bought in the city must neces- 
sarily cover the expenses of such needful precautions. Milk 
delivered in glass bottles is not exposed to the air from the 
time of bottling until used, and visibly shows its cream line 
and any dirt that may settle to the bottom, advantages well 



MILK AND CREAM. 105 

worth the extra cent a quart usually charged. Milk out of a 
can carried from house to house, may receive various germs 
wherever opened; and the late customers get milk less rich 
and filthier than the earlier ones; and the quart measure wet 
with milk must catch dust from the streets. The milk ticket 
should, of course, not be left in the bottom of the pitcher, for 
the milkman to take out with a dirty hand. Milk received in 
a dirty milk pitcher with a rim of sour milk sticking to its 
sides (in spite of rinsing in cold water) will usually sour in 
hot weather. An open pitcher indeed is a poor receptacle, 
especially if left out over night; but a "lightning fruit-jar," 
with its cover and with its rubber band, is easily cleaned, 
and the cover keeps out dust. If milk be delivered early, it 
should be left in the warm summer air no longer than can be 
helped; and especially should not stand in the sun, but be 
shaded in a box. In milk delivered warm the same morning 
it is drawn, the germs propagate too rapidly to be checked. 
The milk should be delivered cold, and put at once into a 
cold place. The dish to hold milk should be thoroughly 
cleaned with soap, or better with washing soda, and water, 
and then rinsed with boiling water, and put in a clean place 
free from dust, to drain (not wiped), and left inverted until 
wanted. " Sterilized milk " has been heated to the boiling 
point (212 degrees) for half an hour, and will keep long; but 
has a cooked taste, and is less easily digested and satisfactory 
than raw milk. " Pasteurized milk " has been heated to 140 
degrees for twenty minutes, and cooled quickly to below fifty 
degrees ; and is held to keep practically as well as sterilized 
milk, but has not the cooked taste. Either kind may be con- 
taminated again by careless handling. Pure new milk is better 
than milk pasteurized under unsanitary conditions. Milk of 
doubtful origin may well be pasteurized at home, especially in 
summer; but for an infant, a physician's advice would be de- 
sirable, since the baby's milk needs exceptional care. There 
are patent pasteurizers and sterilizers to be bought; but a 
double boiler and a dairy thermometer suffice. The milk, after 
heating to 140 degrees for twenty minutes, should be poured 
into a lightning-jar, or ordinary milk bottle, which has just 
been rinsed with boiling water, and should be covered at once 
and set away to cool. As milk readily absorbs odors it should 
not be left uncovered in an ice box along with strong-scented 
foods. The box should be clean and sweet. Milk that has 



106 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

become warm outside the box should not be mixed with the 
cold milk inside. Preservatives should not be used to keep 
milk; they are dangerous. (Prof. P. H. Smith, of the Amherst 
Agricultural College, in a paper on the " Care of Milk in the 
Home," issued by the Massachusetts Board of Agriculture, in 
1908.) 

A few germs washed by milk from the body of one fly may 
grow into millions within a few hours, and give large doses of 
bacilli to any drinker of the milk, and cause serious illness. 
(American Civic Association.) 

To Prevent Milk from Turning. — It often happens that 
milk kept several hours, especially in summer, turns, when it 
is boiled. When it is noticed that there is some inclination 
to turn, put into a quart of it a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of 
soda; stir well, go on with the boiling; and use the milk as 
if nothing had been put in. (Fr.) 

Milk Punch. — What is commonly called milk punch is a 
mixture of whisky, brandy or rum, sugar, milk and nutmeg, 
without either lemon- juice or water. It is taken cold. 
(Leslie.) The spirit supplies the carbohydrate that is some- 
what lacking in the milk. 

Turkish Yourt. — To a quart of new milk, add as much 
sour milk as will turn it to a soft curd; and serve it up with 
sugar, or preserved fruit. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Sour-Cream Salad Dressing. — Beat half a pint of sour- 
cream with an egg beater, until it is smooth, thick and light. 
Mix together two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, a scant tablespoonful of sugar, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper, and a tea- 
spoonful, or more, of mixed mustard; and gradually add the 
mixture to the cream, beating all the while. This dressing 
may be modified to suit different vegetables ; and the season- 
ing may be varied, for example, by omitting the mustard and 
lemon, and highly seasoning the dressing with any kind of 
catchup. Sweet cream may be used instead of sour ; it should 
be quite thick. (Parloa.) 

Cream Salad Dressing. — Mix together two tablespoonfuls 
of olive oil, a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar; then beat into them half a cupful of tomato catchup; 
and finally add a cupful of cream (sweet or sour), beating it 



MILK AND CREAM. 107 

in gradually. This dressing is very good for vegetables. 
(Parloa.) 

. Milk Sauce. — Heat half a pint of milk (or terralac) over 
boiling water; beat a tablespoonful of butter (or two table- 
spoonfuls of palatable vegetable oil) and a teaspoonful of 
flour to a cream, and stir it into the hot milk. Cook five 
minutes ; then add half a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter- 
teaspoonful of pepper; and use at once. This sauce is good 
for boiled cauliflower, potatoes, carrots, and the like, and for 
scalloped dishes. It may be modified by adding flavoring 
herbs. (Parloa.) 

Milk Mustard Sauce. — Make the milk sauce as just di- 
rected. Mix a tablespoonful of mustard with a teaspoonful 
of cold water, and stir into the sauce about two minutes be- 
fore serving up. The quantity of mustard may be more or 
less according to the taste. (Parloa.) 

Cream Sauce. — Boil a pint and a half of rich cream with 
four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, some pieces of cin- 
namon, and a dozen bitter almonds, or peach kernels slightly 
broken up, or a dozen fresh peach leaves. As soon as it has 
boiled up, take it off the fire, and strain it; if it is to be eaten 
with boiled pudding or with dumplings, send it to the table 
hot; but if you intend it to accompany fruit pies or tarts, let 
it get quite cold. (Leslie.) Cream and sugar make a very 
nice sauce for many puddings. Cottage and boiled Indian 
puddings are better with sweet cream. For plain boiled rice, 
many prefer cream that is a little sour. Cornstarch is best 
with cream beaten stiff, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
or bitter almonds. (Haskell.) 

Creams. — Creams are among the most frequent dishes in 
city houses. They are easy to prepare, and very delicate 
when well made. A larger or smaller number of eggs may 
be used. The more whites you put in, the more easily the 
creams set, but it will be at the expense of their delicacy; 
if none are put in, the creams are excellent, but will take 
longer time to set. The receipts will indicate the best propor- 
tion. If it is for a family dinner, the creams may be put 
into a dish; but for a ceremonious repast, it is better to use 
cups or small jars. They have the double advantage, of 
greater elegance, and of requiring for the same number of 



108 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

guests a smaller quantity of cream. These creams are made 
to set by putting the dish in the oven of a stove, or (with 
more trouble) over a sauce-pan that holds boiling water, 
placing over the dish a cover that holds live coals. If the 
cream is in cups, or small jars, put into the sauce-pan only 
water enough to reach to one-third their height; so that in 
boiling, the water will not cover them. It takes ten or fifteen 
minutes to make the creams set. If too much set, they are 
less delicate. A quart of milk is enough to fill about fifteen 
small cups of the ordinary size. (Fr.) 

Vanilla, Lemon, Orange, Cherry-laurel, Orange- 
floaver or Coffee Cream. — For fifteen cups: Boil a quart 
of milk (or terralac) with either some vanilla as long as your 
little finger, or half of the yellow part of a lemon peel, or 
orange-peel, or two cherry-laurel leaves, or a tablespoonful of 
orangeflower water, or four spoonfuls of essence of coffee, or 
some kernels of burnt coffee; sweeten with six ounces of 
sugar ; take from the fire, and cool a little. Beat well together 
six yolks of eggs and one white ; mix little by little with a 
small part of the sweetened, flavored and cooled milk; then, 
with all the milk ; strain through a fine strainer, or sieve ; pour 
into a dish, or into some small cups ; make it set in the oven. 
The piece of vanilla can be used three times ; but, the third 
time, it must be split open, or it will give no flavor. Rinse 
it in cold water after each time. (Fr.) 

Chocolate Cream. — For fifteen cups: Take a quarter- 
pound of chocolate, a quart of milk (or terralac) ; break the 
chocolate in pieces ; put it into a sauce-pan with a little of the 
milk; melt it over the fire, and crush it well so that no lumps 
are left; pour the rest of the milk in; boil several bubbles; 
sweeten with a quarter-pound of sugar; cool down a little. 
Beat well together five yolks of eggs and one white; mix 
with the chocolate and milk, and strain, and make it set in 
the oven, in the same way as described for the vanilla 
cream. (Fr.) 

Caramel Cream. — For fifteen cups: Boil a quart of milk 
(or terralac), and sweeten with six ounces of sugar; cool 
down. Mix with caramel in the following way: Turn to 
caramel three ounces of sugar to which you have added a 
spoonful of water; when it is of a very dark chestnut color, 



MILK AND CREAM. 109 

add three or four spoonfuls of -water; boil two or three bubbles, 
and take from the fire; mix the milk and caramel. The 
mingling should be done almost cold, or the milk would turn. 
Mix with six yolks of eggs and one white well beaten together; 
strain, put into the cups, and make it set in the oven. (Fr.) 

Overset Cream. — For eight or ten persons, take a quart 
of milk (or terralac) ; if you wish the cream to be surrounded 
by sauce, which makes a much more delicate dish, take three 
pints. Boil the quart of milk with half a vanilla bean; sweeten 
with half a pound of sugar; take from the fire, and cool down 
a little. Beat well together eight eggs, yolks and whites; mix 
them little by little with a small part of the sweetened and 
flavored milk that you have cooled; then, with all the milk; 
strain with a fine strainer or sieve ; pour into a bowl, or mould, 
that is just large enough to hold the cream, and that you have 
coated with caramel not too deep colored. The caramel is 
made as follows : Put into a saucepan a quarter-pound of 
sugar with a spoonful of water, stir until the sugar is melted, 
and is of a fine chestnut color. Quickly coat with it the mould 
or bowl, which you have warmed in boiling water. When the 
cream is in the mould, let it set in the oven, or in a Dutch 
oven, fire above and below: when it is quite set, let it cool; 
place a dish over it, and turn it over without breaking it. If 
you wish this cream to be surrounded by a sauce, and thereby 
much more delicate, instead of a quart of milk take three pints, 
and sweeten with three-quarters of a pound of sugar, instead 
of half. When the milk is boiled, sweetened and flavored, set 
apart the pint intended to make the sauce; let it cool; add to 
it four yolks of eggs well mixed; strain; let it set over the 
fire, stirring all the time, like the sauce for snowball custard 
(p. 101) ; when a good thickness has been obtained, let it cool, 
and pour it around the overset cream. 

Blanc-mange. — For fifteen or eighteen persons: Take 
half a pound of almonds, among them some bitter ones; re- 
move the skin, having let them soak some minutes in boiling 
water; pound them up in a mortar; mix them little by little 
with two cupfuls of water; strain through a cloth, and press 
them strongly; sweeten this almond-milk with six ounces of 
sugar; add a cupful of milk (or terralac) and a tablespoonful 
of orangeflower water. Mingle with the preparation an ounce 
of fine gelatine melted in a glass of water. Put it into a 



110 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

mould, and let it set, in a cool place, or even on ice, if it be 
not winter. Take from the mould and serve up. (Fr.) In- 
stead of gelatine manufactured from disgusting hoofs and hides 
and often infested with bacteria, isinglass from Irish moss or 
carrageen, or the Japanese kanten, may better be used. 

Cream Pie. — Little by little moisten a heaping spoonful 
of flour with a pint of milk (or terralac) ; add some sugar of 
the bulk of an egg, and some butter as large as an English 
walnut, and half a teaspoonful of salt; let the whole set, over 
the fire, stirring all the time. When the porridge is thick 
enough, take it from the fire and let it cool; thicken it with 
two yolks of eggs. Pour it into a pie-paste shell made and ar- 
ranged in the way described on page 319. Bake 25 or 30 
minutes. (Fr.) 

Bavarian Cheese. — For fifteen or twenty persons: Boil 
a cupful of milk (or terralac) with half a vanilla bean; 
sweeten with a quarter-jjound of sugar; take from the fire, 
cover, and cool. Beat together six yolks of eggs, mix them 
little by little with the sweetened and flavored milk; strain 
with a fine strainer; put over the fire again, and stir, until 
this cream has the consistency of the sauce for snowball 
custard; cool down. Beat in an earthen pan, with a fork, or 
a wire eggbeater, a quart of sour-cream, into which you put 
a quarter-pound of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of gum 
tragacanth; beat, until it becomes frothy, but not until butter 
lumps begin to form. Over a gentle fire, melt, in half a cupful 
of water, an ounce of gelatine; take from the fire, and cool 
down. When it has begun to thicken, add little by little the 
vanilla cream prepared as just described, then the whipped 
cream. Put into a mould, and let it set, in a very cool place. 
Take from the mould at the moment of serving up, being 
careful to plunge the mould into hot water for half a minute 
so that the cheese may be readily detached from the mould. 
To render this dish yet more delicate, you may add to its 
comjDosition preserved angelica, cedrat, orange-peel, all cut in 
small bits, dried currants, cleaned and washed, Smyrna 
raisins, stoned Malaga raisins and the like. (Fr.) 

Whipped Cream or Chantilly Cheese. — For twelve or 
fifteen persons: Take a quart of good sour-cream; add a tea- 
spoonful of gum tragacanth, a quarter-pound of sugar. Add 



MILK AND CREAM. Ill 

a little vanilla powder or vanilla extract ; or a spoonful of 
orangeflower water; or a spoonful of rosewater, or a drop ot 
essence of rose, and a little of rose-lac; or a small glass of 
kirsch, maraschino, <>r aniseseed; or two two-ounce tablets of 
chocolate melted in a quarter of a cupful of water; or two 
spoonfuls of essence of coffee; or the juice of a quarter-pound 
of strawberries, with a little rose-lac for coloring. Place your- 
self in a cool spot (otherwise the cream will froth badly) and 
heat with a fork, or a wire eggbeater, until the cream visibly 
increases in volume, but not until lumps of butter begin to 
form. Keep in a eool plaee ; do not present it at the table, 
until the time to eat it. This cream can be used to garnish 
merangs. It changes rather easily. One means of making 
it froth and keep long is to add to the cream, before beating, 
some gelatine dissolved in as little water as possible; let it 
cool, and mix with the cream before it begins to set. It needs 
three quarters of an ounce of gelatine for a quart of 
cream. (Fr.) 

Another Whipped Cream. — Put into an earthen pan some 
good cream with powdered sugar, extract, or powder, of 
vanilla, essence of coffee, orangeflower water, or any other 
flavor, and a little gum tragaeanth ; whip with a fork, or an 
eggbeater; mix with whites of eggs beaten to froth; serve up. 
The preparation is, for one quart of cream, a quarter-pound 
of sugar, a teaspoonful of gum tragaeanth, four whites of 
eggs. (Fr.) 

Good-Mary Cheese (or Cream). — For twelve or fifteen 
persons: Take three pints of good, but not too thick, sour- 
cream; mix with it a quarter-pound of powdered sugar, and 
half a powdered vanilla bean. Beat a quart of cream for 
five or six minutes with a fork or an eggbeater ; let it drain 
five or six hours in a little straw basket, or a porcelain or 
earthenware one, arranged for the purpose and wrapped in a 
linen cloth. Serve it up, keeping the form of the basket, and 
surrounding it with the pint of cream which you have put 
aside without whipping. (Fr.) 

Charlotte Russe. — Take a mould of one piece, or a sauce- 
pan; garnish the bottom and the sides with lady-finger cakes 
crowded one against another; into the middle pour some 
whipped cream, either of the composition of Bavarian cheese, 



112 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

or of pastry cream; overset upon a dish; remove the mould, 
and serve up. (Fr.) 

Pastry Cream. — This cream serves to garnish pieces of 
pastry, custard, pies and the like. It can be made at any 
season, and replaces whipped cream, sometimes advantage- 
ously. Put into a sauce-pan half a spoonful of arrowroot, and 
moisten it with half a cupful of milk (or terralac) and three 
ounces of powdered sugar. Separately mix six yolks of eggs 
with half a cupful of milk (or terralac) ; then mix them with 
the milk and arrowroot, thicken by stirring over the fire, until 
the whole sets without boiling; add to the mixture a little 
vanilla-powder, and the six whites of eggs beaten to stiff 
froth; stir with a round wooden spoon over the fire, until the 
whole is well mixed; take from the fire; as soon as the whole 
is almost cold, add, in winter, half an ounce, in summer, an 
ounce, of gelatine dissolved in as little, water as possible. Pour 
immediately upon the pastry, puffs and the like that you wish 
to garnish. (Fr.) 

Ice Cream. — Take two quarts of very rich, perfectly 
sweet cream, beat it as stiff as possible; but not to butter. 
If the cream is thin, increase the quantity. Boil three pints 
of morning's milk in a double boiler; thicken with two table- 
spoonfuls of arrowroot (or with flour) to the consistency of 
thin cream; cook thoroughly in a double boiler (for fear of 
scorching), and until the raw taste of the flour has disap- 
peared; add thirteen ounces of powdered sugar, lemon essence 
or vanilla, both or either one, as desired; strain through a hair 
sieve, and pour into the beaten cream. Mix thoroughly ; taste ; 
if too sweet, add milk and cream; if not sweet enough, add 
sugar; it should before freezing be much sweeter than would 
relish, for it loses flavoring, and sweetness in freezing. Many 
prefer the ice cream much less rich, say, with equal quantities 
of cream and milk, or even less cream. Indeed, it is some- 
times made without any cream at all; and, if properly made, 
freezes very smoothly, and is taken for cream. If milk be used 
without cream, the well beaten whites of four eggs to a quart 
may be added. The mixture is frozen in a freezer free from 
rust, surrounded by broken ice mixed with an equal weight of 
coarse salt. (Haskell, adapted.) 

Another Ice Cream. — Two quarts of sweet cream, two 
quarts of new milk, one quart of powdered sugar, four eggs, 



MILK AND CREAM. 118 

one tablespoonful of vanilla, two teaspoonfuls of bitter almond, 
two tablespoonfuls of flour. Boil one quart of the milk, mix 
the flour in half a pint of cold milk, and add it to the boiling 
quart; stir constantly, until well cooked; then, thin with half 
a pint of cold milk; beat the eggs, unseparated, as light as 
possible; stir into them half a pint of cold milk, and beat the 
eggs and milk together; then; add them to the thickened milk; 
beat the thickened milk and egg briskly three minutes, add 
the remaining half-pint of milk and the sugar ; when the sugar 
is dissolved, strain the custard through a fine sieve, and after 
cooling, add the extract. Beat the cream until it is light, and 
add it to the other ingredients, after they are in the freezer. 
Freeze as usual; if modern freezers are used, the cream will 
not need beating. (Haskell.) 

French Vanilla Ice Cream.— For ten or twelve persons: 
Put into a sauce-pan a quart of good milk, with half a pod 
of vanilla ; boil ; as soon as it boils, add three quarters of a 
pound of sugar; take from the fire, and cool down. Beat Avell 
seven eggs together; mix them with the milk when it is al- 
most completely cold, strain ; put over the fire again, and stir 
with a spoon until the mixture begins to set, but be careful 
not to let it thicken; cool down, put into the freezer, filling 
only two-thirds full ; cover it, and freeze in the way described 
for ices and sherbets (p. 310). (Fr.) 

Other Flavoring for Ice Cream. — Instead of the vanilla 
and lemon, various other flavors may be used. Enough choco- 
late, or coffee, as prepared for drinking, may be stirred into 
the cream to flavor it strongly before freezing ; or orange flavor 
may be obtained by adding lump sugar that has been rubbed 
on the outside of oranges, to extract the oil from the skin, 
further adding when the cream is nearly frozen, as much 
strained and sweetened orange juice as desired. Strawberry, 
raspberry, cherry, pineapple, or any other juice or syrup can 
be used in the same way, if not too acid. (Haskell.) 

Ice Cream So-called. — Some ice creams, so-called, are 
merely a nice boiled custard frozen; and should be called 
frozen custard. (Haskell.) 



114 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES 

BUTTER. 

Butter of a good quality is of a fine yellow color ; it should 
not crumble when you break it, and should not be what is 
called short or friable. Never buy butter without first smell- 
ing and tasting it. It should be neither bitter, nor rancid, nor 
smell too much of the cream; it should taste something like 
a filbert. For white, blanquette, pullet and landlord's sauces, 
it is indispensable that the butter should be of the first 
quality. (Fr.) 

Keeping Butter. — Butter keeps some days, without any 
preparation, in a cellar, in a basement, in a cool place, wrapped 
in a wet cloth. Butter loses its quality when kept in water. 
There are two ways to keep butter for a long time; salting 
and melting. Salting is the best way; melting is solely for 
frying butter. (Fr.) 

Salting down Butter. — Take butter of the first quality, 
completely made — that is, with no part still in the state of 
cream. Wash it, and knead it in cold water, until the water 
no longer becomes milky, but continues perfectly clear and 
transparent. Take out all the water, spread out the butter; 
put upon it two ounces of fine salt for each pound of butter, 
fold and refold, knead with the hands for a good while, so as 
thoroughly to incorporate the salt. Put the butter into stone- 
ware jars that you have carefully cleaned and washed, and of 
which the bottom has been covered with a slight layer of salt 
before you begin to put the butter in. Push the butter tightly 
in every direction, so as to leave no empty cavities. Fill the 
jars up to two inches from the top; smooth out the upper sur- 
face of the butter, and cover it with a layer of the salt; set 
the jars away in the cellar, or in a cool place. Some days 
later, add brine, to the depth of an inch; cover with a cloth 
and a strong paper. When you take out some of the butter, 
be careful to take it quite evenly, and to continue taking from 
the same jar before beginning on another. (Fr.) 

Melting down Butter. — Put the butter into a kettle; 
cook it with a gentle fire, without skimming, until it is clear 
and limpid, for about three hours; take it from the fire, and 
let it stand an instant; skim it, and pour it carefully into 
stoneware j ars ; fill them completely, for cooling will make 
empty space enough at the top ; let it cool ; cover with a paper 



BUTTER. 115 

that you keep stuck, so to speak, to the butter by means of a 
piece of slate of the size of the mouth of the jar, and with 
weights thereon. If the butter, in spite of all the precautions, 
should become rancid, or acquire a strong taste, it would not 
thereby be completely lost; it could still be used for brown- 
butter sauce, or for frying; but it would be quite impossible 
to use it for white or pullet sauces, since they are detestable 
when made with bad butter. (Fr.) 

Oiled or Clarified Butter. — Put any quantity of butter 
in a clean sauce-pan over a clear slow fire; watch it carefully, 
and when it is melted, take off the scum from the top; let it 
stand two or three minutes to settle ; then pour the clear butter 
through a fine sieve into a basin, leaving the sediment at the 
bottom of the pan. Butter, thus clarified, will supply the 
place of olive oil, and is frequently preferred, either for salads 
or frying. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Butter as a Side Dish. — Select the very best and finest 
butter, serve it up on radish-dishes, shells, or boats. Small 
moulds and various apparatus are sold for shaping such butter, 
also, you can with a knife-blade gently scrape the surface of 
a piece of butter, until you have formed a little shell-shaped 
mass of it, which you can place in the shell or radish-dish. 
This butter must be kept cool until placed on the table; in 
summer, a little bit of ice may well be placed between each 
two shell-shaped pieces of butter. (Fr.) 

Butter with Vegetables. — It is almost universally con- 
ceded that vegetables, to be at their best, require the addition 
of fat; and there is no fat so suitable as butter for most 
vegetables, judged by the texture of the dish and by the flavor. 
The American housekeeper is too apt to look on the use of 
butter, milk, cream and eggs, in preparing vegetables, soups 
and sauces, as mere trimming and not food. But they are all 
wholesome, valuable foods, increasing the food value of the 
dishes, and, in reasonable quantities, are to be recommended. 
(Parloa.) Our tables and diagrams have clearly shown how 
deficient most vegetables are in the full quantity of fat re- 
quired by a perfectly well balanced diet ; and the deficiency is 
simply supplied by butter, or by the several vegetable oils 
of excellent, or wholly unobstrusive flavor, or by nuts that 
are rich in fat. 



116 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Butter in Sauces. — Most sauces are made with butter and 
are chiefly devices for adding fatty matter to the main dish 
or vegetable; for vegetables, as we have just been reminded, 
generally lack, by themselves, fat enough for an ideal diet. 

Boiling Sauces Down. — Sometimes, when a dish is 
cooked, the sauce is too dilute; take out your vegetable, and 
with a very hot fire boil the sauce down to the suitable 
quantity. (Fr.) 

Thickening. — To make the sauces perfect, to make them 
thick and unctuous, they are thickened. Here are several 
methods: thickening with flour, with arrowroot, with butter, 
with butter and flour or arrowroot, with eggs and cream, and 
with oil; but of this last we will not speak until we come to 
mayonnaise sauces. (Fr.) 

Thickening with Flour. — Mix a little flour in a plate 
with a little of the sauce ; add a little more of the same sauce ; 
pour it little by little into the sauce-pan, stirring with a spoon ; 
boil two or three bubbles, still stirring; serve up. A tea- 
spoonful of flour is amply enough to thicken a pint of sauce. 
Moreover the exact quantity cannot be fixed, as it depends on 
the quantity of sauce and its consistency. (Fr.) 

Thickening with Arrowroot. — Mix a little arrowroot in 
a plate with one or two spoonfuls of cold water. Mingle it 
little by little with your sauce, stirring the while; take from 
the fire at the first boiling, for your sauce would otherwise be- 
come thin again. Thickening with arrowroot can even advan- 
tageously replace thickening with flour. What has been said 
of the quantity of flour for thickening applies equally 
here. (Fr.) 

Thickening with Butter. — Put some butter into the 
sauce you wish to thicken; stir the sauce, until the butter is 
melted; do not let it boil; take it off the fire, as soon as the 
butter is melted. If you let it boil, the sauce loses the delicacy 
given by the butter. The butter for thickening or for white 
sauces cannot be too fine. (Fr.) 

Thickening with Butter and Flour, or with Butter 
and Arrowroot. — Mix a little butter with a little flour or ar- 
rowroot; add it to the sauce; stir it over the fire for some 
minutes, without letting it boil. If flour is used leave it on 
the fire some minutes longer. (Fr.) 



BUTTER. 117 

Brown Thickening. — Put the butter, which should be 
either fresh or clarified (or use palatable oil), into a sauce- 
pan, over a slow clear fire; when it is melted stir in with a 
wooden spoon two ounces of browned flour, constantly stirring 
it till it is quite smooth, and of a yellowish light brown. This 
must be done very carefully and patiently; if it be put on 
too hot a fire, and done too quickly, it will become bitter, 
or if it should have any burnt smell or taste, it will spoil every- 
thing it is put into; a large tablespoonful will generally be 
enough to thicken a quart of sauce. Keep it covered in an 
earthen jar for use; it will keep well a fortnight in summer, 
and longer in winter. The broAvned flour is easily prepared, 
by spreading some flour on a tin or flat dish, and placing it 
in a Dutch oven before a moderate fire, turning it frequently, 
till it is equally browned. The white thickening for white 
soups and sauces is prepared as above, using fine flour with- 
out its being browned, stirring it over a clear slow fire a 
quarter of an hour, but not allowing it to burn. Keep it cov- 
ered in a jar. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Thickening with Egg. — Take one or several eggs accord- 
ing to the quantity of sauce that you have to thicken. Break 
them carefully so as not to burst the yolk. Separate the white 
from the yolk by passing this from one-half of the shell to 
the other, until separation is complete. Remove the germs 
that are left. Mix the yolks, and beat them well. Remove 
the sauce that you wish to thicken from the fire. Cool a small 
quantity of it, and mix it with your yolks. Add this mixture 
little by little to your sauce ; stirring it. When the thickening 
has been well incorporated with the sauce, set the sauce-pan on 
the fire again. Stir, moving the wooden spoon around the 
sides and bottom of the sauce-pan. Above all, take good care 
that your sauce does not burn, when it comes to the desired 
thickness. Remove it immediately from the fire. It needs 
about two yolks for a pint of sauce. If eggs are dear, you 
can put in less of them, and incorporate a little arrowroot or 
flour with the thickening, before putting them into the sauce. 
The whites of the eggs that have been used for thickening can 
be utilized for covering other viands with bread-crumbs, beat- 
ing the whites up with a little water and oil; they can be 
added to a common omelet; they can be made into merangs 
and small macaroons; they can be used for a meranged 
charlotte. (Fr.) 



118 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Thickening with Egg and Cream. — Is done like thick- 
ening with eggs; only, you add to the yolks, while mixing 
them well, two or three spoonfuls of good and very thick sour- 
cream. (Fr.) 

Butter Sauce (Melted Butter.). — Two ounces of but- 
ter; one large teaspoonful of flour; and two tablespoonfuls of 
milk. Cut the butter in small pieces, that it may melt more 
readily; put it into a clean block-tin sauce-pan (kept for the 
purpose) ; add the flour and milk, well mixed, and about 
half a cupful of water; shake it round the same way over the 
fire, till at the point of boiling ; let it stand one or two minutes 
off the fire; boil it up, and it will then be ready. It should 
be about the thickness of good cream. Milk mixes with the 
butter much better than water alone. If the butter sauce 
should be oiled (which it is desirable to avoid), put in a 
spoonful of cold water, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; 
if very much oiled, pour it from one vessel to another, till it 
becomes right. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Another Butter Sauce. — Three ounces of butter; one 
tablespoonful of flour; a cup and a half of water; a dessert- 
spoonful of vinegar; a saltspoonful of salt; and one-eighth as 
much of fine white pepper; mix the flour and two ounces of 
butter together; set it on the fire in the sauce-pan with the 
water, constantly stirring it the same way, till at the point 
of boiling; add the vinegar, salt and pepper; stir it well, and 
pass it through a tin strainer; return it into the pan; add an 
ounce of butter, and stir it till melted over a moderate fire, 
but do not allow it to boil. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Landlord's Sauce. — This is the simplest of all sauces. 
Mix some butter with a little parsley chopped fine; spread 
on the bottom of the dish you are to use in serving up ; sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, and melt with a gentle fire; serve up, 
as soon as the butter is melted. Often the heat of the dish 
that has been cooked is enough to melt the butter. Be careful 
not to leave it long on the fire, for the butter would turn to 
oil. If you like, you can add to the landlord's sauce a little 
lemon juice or vinegar. (Fr.) 

Poor Man's Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan a cupful of 
water (more or less, according to the quantity of sauce de- 
sired), five or six shallots and three or four sprigs of parsley 



BUTTER. 119 

chopped fine, one or two spoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper. 
Let simmer until the shallots are cooked. They can be re- 
placed by onions cut in very thin slices. (Fr.) 

Black-Butter Sauce. — Brown a rather large piece of 
butter in a frying-pan, stirring from time to time, so that the 
browning may be uniform. When the butter is well colored, 
almost black, yet without being burnt, add some sprigs of 
parsley, and when the parsley is fried, pour the whole, butter 
and parsley, upon the dish of food which you wish to serve up 
with black butter. Put some spoonfuls of vinegar into the 
frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, add it to the sauce. Black- 
butter suits fish especially. (Fr.) 

Piquant Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan some butter as large 
as an egg. When it is melted, add a tablespoonful of flour. 
Brown over a quick fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until 
the butter and flour are of a fine dark chestnut color; add a 
medium-sized onion chopped fine, turn it, and make it take 
on some color. Moisten with a cupful of water or of broth. 
Add salt, pepper, a flavor-posy, one or two spoonfuls of 
vinegar. Boil half an hour or three quarters, with a small 
fire, strain and serve up. After straining you can add some 
gherkins cut in thin round slices. (Fr.) 

Another Piquant Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan some 
butter as large as an egg. Brown it of a fine rather dark 
color. Add three or four shallots chopped fine, turn with a 
spoon until the shallots are colored; add a spoonful of flour; 
stir for some minutes ; moisten with a cupful of water or 
broth. Add pepper, salt, and one or two spoonfuls of vinegar. 
Cook for a quarter of an hour. At the moment of serving up, 
add gherkins and parsley both chopped. (Fr.) 

A Third Piquant Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan some but- 
ter as large as an egg, half a spoonful of grated bread crusts, 
two shallots chopped fine, pepper and salt; stir for an in- 
stant over the fire. Add a cupful of water or broth, a little 
vinegar, two gherkins chopped; boil one or two minutes and 
serve up. (Fr.) 

Pepper Sauce. — Put some butter as large as an egg into a 
sauce-pan, and let it brown a fine color. Throw in two 
medium-size onions cut in thin round slices. When they have 
become colored, moisten with a cupful of water, or of broth. 



120 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Add salt, pepper, thyme, sweet-bay, parsley, one or two cloves, 
two or three round slices of carrots, two spoonfuls of vinegar. 
Boil an hour. Strain and thicken with some butter as large 
as an English walnut kneaded with arrowroot or flour. If the 
sauce is too pale, color it with a little caramel. (Fr.) 

Mustard Sauce. — Rub a teaspoonful of mustard quite 
smooth, with a tablespoonful of vinegar; add a little pepper 
and salt; and stir it in some butter sauce. (Vegetarian 
Cookery.) 

Brown Sauce. — Two ounces of butter (or four table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil) ; and one ounce of flour. Melt 
the butter in a frying-pan, or sauce-pan (or heat the oil in 
the pan) ; add the flour, stirring till it is of a brown color; 
add as much boiling water as will make it the thickness of 
cream; and season with pepper and salt. (Vegetarian 
Cookery.) 

American White Sauce. — Beat a tablespoonful of butter 
and two tablespoonfuls of flour to a cream; put it into a sauce- 
pan with half a pint of white broth (or of water), half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper; sim- 
mer ten minutes ; and serve up. This sauce may be modified 
by adding flavoring herbs. (Parloa.) 

Parisian White Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan some butter 
as large as an egg and a tablespoonful of flour; knead them 
well together; wet them gradually with about a cupful of hot 
water; season. Place over the fire; stir with a spoon until 
the mixture begins to boil; then add a fresh quantity of butter 
cut in pieces, so that it will melt the easier, and take it im- 
mediately away from the fire again. If you choose, you can 
make the sauce slightly acid with a little vinegar or lemon 
juice. But the vinegar or lemon must be added only at the 
moment of serving up, or the sauce will turn sour. (Fr.) 

Norman White Sauce. — A sauce ignored by most cooks, 
and consequently omitted from most cook-books. Moisten a 
teaspoonful of arrowroot or of flour with one or two spoonfuls 
of water. Add to the mixtures some butter as large as an 
egg, and half a pint, or about seven or eight spoonfuls, of the 
cream called at Paris double cream (cream of curdled milk — 
sour-cream). Put upon the fire and continue to stir, until 
the sauce has bubbled up two or three times. Serve up. 



BUTTER. 121 

You can acidulate this sauce with a little vinegar; but, just as 
with the Parisian white sauce, you must not put in the vinegar, 
until the sauce is away from the fire. (Fr.) 

White Sauce Acidulated with Sorrel. — Make a white 
sauce either Parisian or Norman, but with a little less flour; 
take it from the fire ; at the moment of serving up, add a good 
handful of sorrel well cleansed and washed and chopped fine. 
White sauces so acidulated have a taste quite different from 
a sauce acidulated with vinegar or lemon, and are quite 
agreeable. (Fr.) 

White Sauce with Capers. — Make a white sauce, either 
Parisian or Norman; at the moment of serving up add a tea- 
spoonful of capers. (Fr.) 

Blanquette Sauce. — In a sauce-pan melt some butter as 
large as an egg; add a tablespoonful of flour. After thor- 
oughly mixing them, add a cupful of water, an onion, a flavor- 
posy (p. 206), and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 
half an hour. Put into it the viand you have to prepare. Re- 
move the posy, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Pullet Sauce. — Make a blanquette sauce. At the moment 
of serving up, thicken with egg, or with egg and cream. What 
you have to cook, or warm over, should be completely cooked 
before adding the thickening; the thickening, to repeat, should 
not be added until the moment of serving up. (Fr.) 

Bechamel Sauce. — Put some butter as large as an egg 
into a sauce-pan with a spoonful of flour, some salt and 
pepper. When the butter is melted and well mixed with flour, 
pour in, while constantly stirring, a cupful of fully boiling 
milk. Cook a quarter of an hour, continually stirring. (Fr.) 

Remoulade Sauce. — Into a bowl put two or three 
spoonfuls of mustard, salt, pepper, and a dash of vinegar. 
Pour oil in, drop by drop, while turning the mustard, so as 
to amalgamate it with the oil. Put in more or less of the 
oil, according as you Like this sauce of a milder or stronger 
flavor. Some persons mix with this sauce shallot, parsley, 
cibol, all chopped very fine. The sauce is good with celery. 
(Fr.) It is practically the same as the ordinary English salad 
dressing for lettuce. 



122 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Warm Ravigote Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan, put a cupful 
of water, or of broth; add shallot, chervil, burnet, tarragon, 
common garden cress, all chopped fine; also salt, pepper, 
vinegar. Boil ten or fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, and 
thicken with an egg-size piece of butter mixed with a tea- 
spoonful of arrowroot or flour. (Fr.) 

Cold Ravigote Sauce. — Take shallot, chervil, burnet, tar- 
ragon, garden cress, chives, scallion. Pound them in a mortar. 
When the whole is reduced to paste, add the yolk of a raw 
egg. Let oil fall drop by drop, while you stir the mixture; 
when the same has sufficient consistency, add a spoonful of 
vinegar and a teaspoonful of mustard. Should the sauce, 
when finished and seasoned, be too thick, you can thin it with 
a little cold water. (Fr.) 

Tartar Sauce. — Into a dish put two or three yolks of 
raw eggs, a spoonful and a half of mustard (more or less ac- 
cording as you like this sauce of stronger or milder taste), 
some salt, pepper, and four spoonfuls of oil. Mix the whole 
well together. Let it stiffen over a very mild fire, or rather 
over warm ashes, while you stir with the spoon; one or two 
minutes are enough. You can, if you like them, add to this 
sauce, parsley, cibol, shallot, all chopped fine. (Fr.) 

White Mayonnaise Sauce. — Into a bowl put one or two 
yolks of raw eggs. Mix the whole well together; let fall into 
it drop by drop a rather large quantity of oil, stirring the 
yolks with a spoon. You will perceive that there is enough 
oil when the mixture has some consistency, and detaches itself 
from the bowl. When the yolks begin to have some consis- 
tency, you can put in more oil at a time, but, until then, only 
drop by drop. Add vinegar, salt and pepper, and stir well, 
until the whole is well amalgamated. When the sauce is 
finished and well seasoned, if it be too thick, add a little cold 
water. You can also add one or two spoonfuls of good cream. 
To succeed well with this sauce, you must work in a cool place. 
The bowl may be kept cool among broken ice. (Fr.) 

Green Mayonnaise Sauce. — Add to the white mayonnaise 
a certain quantity of chervil, tarragon, garden cress, and 
burnet, all pounded up in a mortar. (Fr.) 

Ayoli Sauce (Southern). — In a mortar pound up two 
cloves of garlic; add the yolk of a raw egg, a crumb as large 



BUTTER. 123 

as an English walnut of bread soaked in water, or milk, and 
well squeezed, some salt and pepper ; pound and mix the whole 
well together, adding about seven or eight spoonfuls of oil, 
drop by drop. If the sauce be too thick, add a little 
water. (Fr.) 

Soubise Sauce. — Take a dozen white onions, clean them, 
and cut them in two, and throw them for some minutes into 
boiling water. Into a sauce-pan put some butter as large as 
an egg, and a spoonful of flour; and melt with a mild fire; 
when the butter is melted, and the mixture is complete, add 
a cupful of lukewarm water; stir, and put the onions in; cook 
with a mild fire. When the onions are cooked, pass them 
through the strainer; put them into the sauce-pan again, season 
with salt and pepper and a lump of sugar as large as an 
English walnut. Simmer some minutes; at the moment of 
serving up, add a spoonful of sour-cream. This sauce should 
have the consistency of mashes, among which it might be 
classed. It is very good with beef and mutton. (Fr.) 

Madeira Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan, put some butter as 
large as an egg; melt it, add a teaspoonful of flour; stir with 
a spoon over a quick fire, until the butter and flour are of a 
fine chestnut color; moisten with two cupfuls of water, or 
broth; add salt, pepper, a flavor-posy (p. 206) an onion, a little 
nutmeg, a clove; simmer an hour; at the moment of serving 
up, add two or three spoonfuls of madeira ; strain and serve 
up. (Fr.) 

Devilled Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan, put some butter as 
large as an egg and a spoonful of flour; stir over the fire, 
until the butter and the flour are of a fine chestnut color; 
moisten with half a cupful of red wine and a cupful of water, 
or of broth; add seven or eight sprigs of parsley, a little 
thyme, a sweet-bay leaf, a clove of garlic, two shallots chopped 
fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper and a little salt; simmer 
twenty minutes, strain, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Curry Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan, put some butter as large 
as an egg, a teaspoonful of curry-powder, a little nutmeg, two 
spoonfuls of flour; melt over the fire, stirring the while; add, 
while still stirring, two cupfuls of water, or of broth; boil a 
quarter of an hour; thicken with a bit of butter, and serve 
up. (Fr.) 



124 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Bordeaux Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan, put four table 
spoonfuls of oil, a dozen small onions, some salt and pepper: 
brown them over a quick fire; when the onions are of a fine 
color, add a spoonful of brandy and two cupfuls of water, or 
broth, in which you have mixed four spoonfuls of tomato mash ; 
also add a handful of parsley chopped fine ; boil half an hour ; 
thicken with a little arrowroot, or flour. (Fr.) 

Bearnese Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan four yolks of 
eggs, four spoonfuls of oil, four spoonfuls of water, one 
spoonful of vinegar, one spoonful of tarragon chopped fine, 
salt and pepper ; mix the whole well together ; let them stiffen 
over warm ashes, while you turn with a wooden spoon, until 
the consistency is suitable. This sauce, quick to prepare, ex- 
cellent to eat with chops and steaks, ought to be made with 
much care, and ought to have the thickness of mayonnaise 
sauce. (Fr.) 

Dutch Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan a quarter-pound of 
butter, a teaspoonful of vinegar and two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water, some salt and butter; put it over warm ashes, and stir 
with the wooden spoon, until the butter is melted. (Fr.) 

Italian Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan put some butter as 
large as an egg, and a tablespoonful of flour; stir them over 
a quick fire, until the butter and flour are of a fine chestnut 
color; moisten with a cupful and a half of water, or of broth, 
and half a glass of white wine; season with salt and pepper; 
cook a quarter of an hour; add shallot, parsley, mushrooms, 
all chopped up; boil several bubbles, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Provencal, Sauce. — Into a sauce-pan put three spoonfuls 
of oils, seven or eight mushrooms and a shallot, all chopped 
fine, a clove of garlic, salt, pepper, a flavor-posy (p. 206) and 
a tablespoonful of flour, stir them over a quick fire, until the 
whole begins to take on some color ; moisten with a cupful and 
a half of water, or of broth, and half a glass of white wine; 
boil seven or eight minutes; take out the garlic and the posy, 
and serve up. (Fr.) 

Venetian Sauce. — Mix half a spoonful of flour with a 
cupful of cold water; season with salt and pepper, put over 
the fire, and let them stiffen, while you stir; when the sauce 
is of a good consistency, thicken with butter as large as an 



CURDS AND CHEESE. 125 

egg; add two spoonfuls of parsley chopped very fine and one 
spoonful of vinegar; stir, and serve up immediately. (Fr.) 

Cooked Salad Dressing. — In a bowl mix well a table- 
spoonful of oil, or butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful 
of mustard; and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper; add two 
eggs, and beat for five minutes; then add a gill of vinegar, 
and beat one minute. Add two gills of milk; place the bowl 
in a pan of boiling water, and cook until, in about ten minutes, 
the sauce thickens like thin cream, stirring constantly. Cool, 
and bottle what is not wanted for immediate use. This sauce 
is good for nearly all kinds of cooked vegetables. If butter 
is substituted for the oil, add it just before taking the sauce 
from the fire. (Parloa.) 

CURDS AND CHEESE. 

Kinds of Cheese. — The American factory cheese (called 
" full-cream," if made from unskimmed milk, " part-skim," if 
the cream has been partly removed, and " skim," if wholly 
removed) is of the English Cheddar type; and is the most 
commonly used of all the commercial varieties in the United 
States, and may be taken as a standard. It is usually pale 
to darker yellow in color; though it may be white, when un- 
colored. When fresh, it is mild in flavor; but when well 
ripened, has a characteristic and sharp taste. The new cheese 
is soft, though not waxy, and may be easily shaved, or broken 
into small pieces. When well ripened, it may be finely grated. 
Sage cheese is a variety of Cheddar cheese that is flavored 
with sage, and is green mottled, formerly with bits of sage- 
leaf, but now generally in another way. English dairy cheese 
is made in much the same way as Cheddar, but the curd is 
somewhat more heated, and the cheese is therefore harder. It 
is somewhat dearer than the American factory cheese, and is 
found only in the larger markets. Parmesan cheese, so-called 
outside of Italy, is a very hard cheese, with granular appear- 
ance when broken. When well made, it will keep for years, 
and may be broken and grated. In Europe, it is used with 
soups, and with macaroni and the like. Sap sago cheese is 
made from skim milk in Switzerland; and is suitable for grat- 
ing, is greenish, with an unusual flavor, and contains one 
quarter of its weight of a clover grown there, and is not dear. 
Gorgonzola cheese, from cow's milk, and Roquefort, from 



126 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

sheep's milk, are highly flavored with moulds throughout. 
Swiss cheese (Emmenthaler, Gruyere &c.) has a mild, 
sweetish flavor and large holes, or eyes. It is suitable for 
cooking, or for use uncooked. Edam cheese, made in Holland, 
is spherical, and usually dyed red on the outside. In this 
country, it is the custom to cut off a part of the top for a 
lid, and scoop out the inside. Though seldom used in American 
cooking, the hollowed-out shell is sometimes stuffed with 
cooked and seasoned macaroni, rice, or the like, and baked. 
Potted or sandwich cheeses are made by softening ordinary 
cheese with one fifth its weight of butter, or oil, and are put 
into pots, and used like any soft cheese. Sometimes, they are 
seasoned with mustard or curry powder. Cream cheese, prop- 
erly so-called, is made from rich cream curdled by souring, or 
from sweet cream curdled with rennet. After it is drained 
of the whey, it is covered, salted, and turned occasionally, and 
is ready for market in five or ten days. But there are many 
varieties of cream cheese. Soft cream cheese has more water 
(usually about one half the total weight) and more fat and 
less protein than standard cheese, and is more perishable; 
and each cheese weighs about *4 or 1-3 pound, and sells for 
10 or 15 cents or at 40 to 50 cents a pound. It is sometimes 
mixed with chopped pimento. Neufchatel cheese is similar 
in appearance, and is made from whole or skim milk curdled 
with rennet. After draining and pressing, it is thoroughly 
kneaded, formed into small rolls or blocks, ripened about four 
weeks, until special moulds develop, and is then wrapped in tin 
foil and marketed. Brie and Camembert are soft rennet cheeses 
of strong flavor and color, and of somewhat smaller nutritive 
value than standard cheese, and not often used in cookery. 
There are, besides, other soft cheeses, such as cottage cheese 
and other sour-milk and cream cheeses, junket, or curds and 
whey, Devonshire cream, and the like. (Langworthy and 
Hunt, in United States Agriculture Department Farmers' 
Bulletin.) 

Buttermilk Cheese. — Heat buttermilk gradually to about 
130° or 140° Fahrenheit. Allow it to cool; pour off most of 
the whey from the curd settled to the bottom, and strain out 
the rest. This cheese has hardly any fat, yet has a consistency 
suggestive of fat. It may be seasoned with salt only, or 
mixed with butter or cream and seasonings; or mashed and 



CURDS AND CHEESE. 127 

mixed with chopped olives and pimentos in equal parts, and 
with salt, and spread between thin slices of bread; or made 
into a roll, or moulded, cut into slices and put on lettuce leaves 
with French dressing; or used in any way like ordinary cream 
cheeses. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Buttermilk Cream. — Heating buttermilk not above 100° 
Fahrenheit, a compound is made that, after draining, has the 
consistency of a very thick cream, which is claimed to be suit- 
able for eating on bread in place of butter. It can also be 
used in making salad-dressings. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Devonshire Cream. — Let a pan of whole milk stand for 
twenty-four hours in a cool place, or for twelve hours in a 
warm place. Put it on the cooler part of the stove, and heat, 
the more slowly the better, until the milk is very hot, but not 
boiling. If overheated, a thick skin will form on the surface. 
After the heating, keep the milk in a cool place for twenty- 
four hours, and then skim it. The thick cream so obtained 
has a characteristic flavor and texture and in England is com- 
monly eaten with fresh or preserved fruit. (Langworthy and 
Hunt.) 

Devonshire Cream, Again. — Scald a gallon of new milk, 
or two quarts of cream, in a clean pan over a gentle fire, till 
it begins to froth around the sides; take it off immediately, 
and set it in two broad earthen pans, as milk is set for cream ; 
the next day, take off the cream carefully with a skimmer; 
place it on dishes in layers, and if for immediate use, sprinkle 
fine sugar between the layers. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Cheese as Food. — Some varieties of cheese are used chiefly 
in small quantities, for the flavor, to make the diet attractive 
and palatable; other kinds, comparatively low priced are suit- 
able to be eaten in large quantities, not merely for the flavor, 
but for nutrition, particularly the American standard factory 
cheese. The flavor comes from the fatty acids in the cheese, 
and their compounds, and from ammonia-like bodies formed 
during the ripening, and from salt added to the curd; and, in 
some varieties, like Roquefort, from bodies elaborated by 
moulds. The changes in the composition of the cheese are 
chiefly effected by micro-organisms, and are fermentative, and 
not putrefactive. Numerous careful experiments have proved 
that cheese, whether cooked or raw, is very thoroughly and 



128 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

easily digested, without constipation or other physiological 
disturbances ; and the digestion appears to be effected by the 
ferments of the intestines rather than by those of the stomach. 
(Of course, cheese not fully chewed may, as difficultly per- 
meable lumps, in the stomach or intestines, be somewhat hard 
to digest.) Badly cooked cheese is likely to contain burned 
fats, that may make digestion difficult. A level teaspoonful 
of potassium bicarbonate to the pound of cheese has been 
recommended for increasing the digestibility of cheese ; but ex- 
periments have not confirmed the idea. The bicarbonate, how- 
ever, does neutralize some of the free acids of the cheese, 
destroying some of the flavor, perhaps an advantage to some, 
though a disadvantage to others. An ounce of cheese roughly 
is equivalent to an egg, to a glass of milk, or to two ounces 
of meat. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Bill-of-fare Making with Cheese. — In devising a bill- 
of-fare, the aim is not merely to supply the nutritive elements 
in due proportion, but to make an attractive and palatable 
combination of foods, that is, therefore, favorable to digestion. 
For example, watery ;.nd refreshing fruit and succulent 
vegetables with their large amount of cellulose are a pleasant 
contrast to the concentrated and fatty cheese. It is conse- 
quently well to combine with a principal cheese dish crisp, 
watery vegetables, water-cress, celery, lettuce (with a dress- 
ing, or with salt alone), or simple salads, and refreshing fruits, 
rather than heavy desserts. Cheese, too, whether raw or 
cooked, is rather soft, and goes well with the harder, crustier 
kinds of bread, crusty rolls, or biscuit, zwieback, toast, pulled 
bread, ryebread and the harder brown breads, or crackers, 
and some of the numerous crisp, ready-to-eat cereal breakfast 
foods, or with brittle cookies rather than with rich soft cakes 
or puddings. As cheese has a high percentage of fat, the fat 
of accompanying dishes may be correspondingly diminished. 
Eating is often continued after taking enough in total bulk, 
solely because all that is wanted of some nutritive element has 
not been eaten ; so that the meal has thereby too much protein, 
or too much starch (carbohydrate) ; has been too moist, or too 
dry; too highly flavored, or not flavored enough. As cheese 
has no starch nor cellulose, it should be combined with bread, 
potatoes and other foods rich in starch, with vegetables and 
with sweets. A number of the cheese dishes are fully sub- 



CURDS AND CHEESE. 



129 



stantial enough to take satisfactorily the place of such meat 
dishes as have been common not merely at breakfast and 
luncheon, but at dinner. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Keeping Cheese. — One of the best ways to keep cheese 
that has been cut is to wrap it in a slightly damp cloth, and 
then in paper, and keep it in a cool place. The cloth should 
be sprinkled, and then wrung, and should seem hardly damp 
to the touch. Instead of the cloth, paraffine paper may be 
used. When cheese is put in a covered dish, the air should 
never be wholly excluded; for, if it is. the cheese moulds more 
readily. In some markets, small whole cheeses, of five pounds, 
can be bought ; and they may be kept with a slice cut from 
the top for a cover, and the inside scooped out with a knife, a 
strong spoon, or a cheese-scoop. Some hardware stores sell 
knobs that may serve as handles to the lid. The cheese be- 
low the lid should be kept wrapped in a cloth. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Grating Cheese. — It is often convenient to use a very 
coarse grater, with slits instead of round holes. It shaves the 
cheese, instead of grating it; an advantage; when the cheese 
is soft, as the grater does not become clogged. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Flavoring of Cheese Dishes. — Variety in cheese dishes 
may be had by varying the flavorings. Among the best flavor- 
ings are onions, chives, and the green sweet pepper; but, as 
the cheese needs very little cooking, and the onion or pepper 
a great deal, these should always be previously cooked, either 
by stewing in a very little water, or by cooking in butter, 
or oil. The seeds of the pepper should be removed before 
cooking. Where chopped celery is used, as it may be in most 
of the dishes, it should be cooked beforehand until tender. 
Other good flavors are mustard, curry-powder, onion juice, 
chopped olives, pimento, and, according to European receipts, 
nutmeg or mace. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Curds and Whey (Sometimes called Junket). — With a 
piece of rennet about three inches square, washed in two or 
three cold waters, to remove the salt, and wiped dry, and with 
a string tied to one corner, curdle a quart of warmed, but not 
boiled, unskimmed milk in a deep dish or pan, leaving the 
string hanging out. Cover the pan, and set it by the fire, 



130 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

or in some other warm place. When the milk becomes a firm 
mass of curd, and the whey looks clear and greenish, remove 
the rennet, pulling the string, as gently as possible; and set 
the pan in ice, or in a very cold place. Send to table with a 
small pitcher of white wine, sugar and nutmeg mixed together ; 
or with a bowl of sweetened cream, with a nutmeg grated over 
it. The rennet may be kept in white wine, cut in small pieces, 
and put into a small glass jar with wine enough to cover it 
well. Either the wine or the rennet will be found good for 
turning milk; but both together would make the curd too hard 
and tough to be eatable. Rennets will keep a year or more. 
(Leslie.) 

Sour-curdled Curds and Whey. — Sometimes, without 
rennet, the curd is formed by the souring of the milk; and 
the quicker, if the milk is kept warm, best at about 96° 
Fahrenheit, or blood heat. A much higher temperature is likely 
to make the curd hard and tough, particularly the part nearest 
to the fire. The milk may be set into a pan of warm water. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cottage Cheese, in the Pennsylvania mountains called 
Smear-case. — Cover a pan of milk just beginning to sour, and 
set it by the fire, until it becomes a curd (or you may use en- 
tirely sweet milk, curdling it with rennet). Pour off the whey 
from the top; tie up the curd in a pointed coarse linen bag; 
hang it up to drain over night, without squeezing it. In the 
morning, put the curd into a pan, adding some rich cream 
(or milk and a little butter), and work it very fine with a 
spoon, chopping and pressing it, till it is of about the con- 
sistency of soft bread pudding; or add but little cream, and 
roll into balls. To a soup plate of the fine curd add a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a piece of butter as large as a walnut, 
mixing all thoroughly together. Some also add a little black 
pepper. Then, put it into a stone or china vessel; cover it 
closely, and keep in a cold place. When thin, this cheese goes 
well with preserves or sugared fruit. (Leslie.) The large 
proportion of carbohydrates in the fruit and sugar counter- 
balances the lack of them and the excess of protein and fat in 
the cheese. 

Additional Notes on Cottage Cheese. — The milk may 
be warmed, for curdling, by pouring hot water into it. The 
water removes more of the acid, than when the whey is left 



CURDS AND CHEESE. 181 

undiluted ; and some consider that a great advantage. If the 
curd should have been overheated, it should be put through a 
meat-chopper, which will insure excellent texture. Thoroughly 
chilling the milk before draining off the whey causes more fat 
to be retained; but anyhow not much fat remains in cottage 
cheese. It is therefore, more economical to make it from skim 
milk, and add fat (say, butter, or cream, or oil) to the curd. 
Chopped parsley, caraway seeds, chopped olives, and pimento 
may, if liked, be added. Cottage cheese is mostly consumed 
immediately; but when made in quantities, it may be packed 
in tubs and kept in cold storage. Sometimes, it is formed into 
rolls, or blocks, and wrapped in tinfoil, for marketing; and 
is used without ripening. Sometimes, instead of curdling by 
souring, rennet is used ; and, then, the flavor is milder and less 
acid. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Uncooked Curd, or French Cottage Cheese. — The 
French make cheese from sour milk without heating it. They 
pour the milk into earthen moulds which have holes in the 
bottom ; or a very fine sieve may be used. The whey drips 
out, and the curd takes a curd-like consistency and the shape 
of the mould. When stiff enough, the cheese is chilled ; and is 
eaten with sweet cream and sugar, as a staple dessert, 
especially in hot weather, and is delicious with acid fruit, such 
as currants, or with strawberries. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese with Cream. — This cheese is especially agreeable 
in the summer. Curdle four quarts of milk by letting it stand 
two or three days in a rather cool place. Remove the cream; 
let the curd drain well, one day or a day and a half, putting 
it for the purpose into a linen cloth in small straw, or wicker, 
or porclain, or earthenware baskets. When the cheese is well 
drained, take it from the basket, and serve it up surrounded 
by sour cream. It is eaten with powdered sugar. Another 
way is to mingle the drained curd with its cream, crush it, 
strain it, and whip it for some minutes, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Sour-Cream Cheese. — When cream is to be made into 
cheese similar to cottage cheese, it should be drained without 
previous heating ; and the draining is facilitated by moistening 
the cloth in salt water before pouring the cream in. The 
curd is formed either by souring or with rennet. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 



132 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cream Cheese. — After completely curdling, say, eight or 
ten quarts of new milk with rennet, press a clean linen cloth 
upon the firm curd, so as to make the whey rise above. Dip 
off the whey with a saucer, or skimmer. Carefully put the 
curd, as whole as possible, into a cheese-hoop, or mould (a 
round box about six inches deep and some nine or ten inches 
wide with holes in the bottom and with a lid that fits the in- 
side exactly), spreading a clean wet cloth under the curd, 
and folding it over the top. Lay a large brick, or something 
as heavy, on the lid, and let the whey drain out through the 
holes at the bottom of the mould. Do not press hard ; for the 
finished cream cheese should be only about as hard as firm 
butter. The curd will sink down to a thickness of two or 
three inches. The whey will cease to exude in about six hours, 
or somewhat longer. Take out the cheese; rub it all over with 
a little butter, and sprinkle it slightly with fine salt. Set it 
in a dry, dark place; in four or five days it will be fit to use. 
When cut, it should, if the weather be warm, be eaten at once ; 
but, uncut, it will keep a week in a cold place, if turned three 
or four times a day. Serve it up on a large plate. (Leslie.) 

Cheese Sauce. — Thicken a cupful of milk, or terralac, 
with two tablespoonfuls of flour; season with salt and pepper; 
add one ounce of cheese (14 cupful of grated cheese) ; stir 
until it is melted; and serve up. This sauce may be used in 
creaming eggs, or to pour over toast, like milk toast. It may 
be seasoned with a little curry-powder, and poured over hard- 
boiled eggs. If two ounces of cheese (instead of one) be used, 
the sauce is suitable for use with macaroni or rice, or for 
baking with crackers soaked in milk; and if, further, two 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, or of palatable vegetable oil, 
be mixed with the flour before putting into the milk, or ter- 
ralac, the sauce becomes very rich in fat, and has only a mild 
flavor of cheese. If two cupfuls of grated cheese, or 8 ounces 
(instead of one) are used, the sauce may be used upon toast 
as a substitute for Welsh rabbit. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Potted Cheese.— One pound of cheese; three ounces of 
butter (or six tablespoonfuls of palatable oil) ; and one tea- 
spoonful of mixed mustard. Grate the cheese, and mix it with 
the other ingredients; add a little mace, and cayenne pepper; 
beat all together with a potato masher; put it into small jars, 



CHEESE. 183 

and pour clarified butter (or palatable oil) over it. Keep it 
in a dry place. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Welsh Rabbit.- — Toast some slices of bread; having cut 
off the crust ; butter them, and keep them hot ; grate, or shave 
down with a knife, some fine mellow cheese ; and, if it is not 
very rich, mix it with a few small bits of butter. Add to it, 
in a sauce-pan, a teaspoonful of made mustard a little cayenne 
pepper, and, if you choose, a wineglassful of fresh porter, or 
of red wine. Stir the mixture over hot coals, till it is com- 
pletely melted ; then brown it by holding a red hot shovel over 
it. Lay the toast in the bottom and around the sides of a 
deep dish; put the melted cheese upon it, and serve it up as 
hot as possible, with dry toast in a separate plate. (Leslie.) 

Welsh Rabbit, Another Way. — Cook a teaspoonful of 
cornstarch in a tablespoonful of butter, or in vegetable oil; 
gradually add half a cupful of milk, or of terralac, and cook 
two minutes ; add half a pound of cheese, and stir, until it is 
melted. Season, and serve up on crackers or bread toasted on 
one side, pouring upon the untoasted side. Food value, about 
that of three quarters of a pound of beef. Calculated cost 
(with cheese at 22 cents a pound), 13 cents. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Cheese on Toast. — Toast a slice of bread (about half an 
inch thick) on both sides; cut off the crust; put it on a flat 
dish, and butter it; lay a rather thin slice of good toasting 
cheese upon it; and toast before the fire in a Dutch oven. 
(Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Cheese Turnovers. — Roll some puff paste about an eighth 
of an inch thick; cut it in pieces two or three inches broad, 
and four or five long; lay some small slices of good toasting 
cheese on each; turn the paste over; and close it, and bake 
it in a quick oven. They may be served up either hot or cold. 
(Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Baked Crackers and Cheese, No. 1. — Split nine or ten 
butter crackers, or Boston crackers, or with a sharp knife cut 
them into pieces of uniform size. Pour 1% cupfuls of milk, 
or terralac, over them, and drain it off at once. Into a but- 
tered baking-dish put alternate layers of the soaked crackers 
and of a cheese sauce made with the milk, or terralac, some 
flour and 14 pound of cheese and ^ teaspoonful of salt. Cover 



134 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

with bread-crumbs, and brown in the oven; or simply reheat, 
without covering with crumbs. This dish is a very satisfactory 
substitute for macaroni and cheese, and can be made in less 
time. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Baked Crackers and Cheese, No. 2. — Soak nine or ten 
butter crackers, or soda crackers, in two cupfuls of hot milk, 
whole or skimmed, or terralac, with a quarter-teaspoonful of 
salt; place them in a buttered baking-dish in alternate layers 
with a cupful of grated cheese. Pour the rest of the milk, or 
terralac, over them, and bake. The dish may be covered with 
buttered crumbs. A very little mixed mustard may be put on 
each cracker. This is more quickly prepared than No. 1; but 
as the milk is likely to curdle, the consistency is not so good. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) The terralac, however, does not 
curdle. Macaroni and cheese and baked rice and cheese will 
be discussed under macaroni and rice. 

Cheese Rolls. — Many kinds of roll may be made by com- 
bining different kinds of cheese with pulse, either beans of 
various sorts, cowpeas, lentils or peas, adding bread-crumbs 
to make the mixture thick enough to form into a roll. Beans 
are usually mashed, but peas or small lima beans may be mixed 
whole with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, and enough of the 
liquor in which the vegetables have been cooked may be added 
to get the right consistency. Or, instead of beans or peas, 
chopped spinach, beet-tops, or head-lettuce may be used. 
Home-made cottage cheese, and the soft cream cheese of com- 
merce, standard cheese, or English dairy may be used. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 

Boston Roast. — Mash a pint (or a pound can) of cooked 
kidney beans, or put them through a meat-grinder. Add half 
a pound of grated cheese, and enough bread-crumbs to make 
the mixture so stiff that it can be formed into a roll. Bake 
in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with butter and water. 
Serve up with tomato sauce. The dish may be flavored with 
onions, chopped and cooked in butter and water. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Pimiento and Cheese Roast. — Put two cupfuls of cooked 
lima beans, a quarter-pound of commercial, or home-made, 
cream cheese and three canned chopped pimentos through a 
meat chopper. Mix thoroughly, and add bread-crumbs, until 



CHEESE. 185 

it is stiff enough to form into a roll. Brown in the oven, 
basting occasionally with butter and water. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Nut and Cheese Roast. — Cook two tablespoonfuls of 
chopped onion in a little water and a tablespoonful of butter, 
or in a palatable vegetable oil, until it is tender. Mix a cupful 
of chopped English walnuts, a cupful of bread-crumbs, the 
juice of half a lemon, some salt and pepper with the water 
in which the onion was cooked; pour into a shallow baking- 
dish, and brown in the oven. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese and Spinach Roll. — Cook two quarts of spinach 
in water for ten minutes. Drain off the water, and add a 
tablespoonful of butter, or palatable vegetable oil, and salt; 
cook, until the spinach is tender, and chop. Add a cupful of 
grated cheese, and bread-crumbs enough to make a mixture 
so stiff it can be formed into a roll; or leave it more moist, 
and cook in a baking-dish. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Vegetable and Cheese Rolls. — Instead of the spinach 
just mentioned, you may substitute beet-tops, Swiss chard, 
or the outer leaves of lettuce. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese with Mush. — Cheese may be added to a corn- 
meal mush, or to mush made from any of the corn or wheat 
preparations now on the market. The cheese is particularly 
desirable when the corn-meal mush is to be fried. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 

Fried Bread with Cheese. — Scald a cupful of milk, or 
terralac, with half a teaspoonful of potassium bicarbonate; 
add half a cupful (or two ounces) of grated cheese, and stir, 
until it dissolves. Dip six slices of bread into this mixture, 
and fry in butter, or other frying fat. The potassium bicar- 
bonate helps to keep the cheese in solution; but it is desirable 
to keep the milk hot while dipping the bread. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Potatoes with Cheese Sauce. — Cut boiled potatoes into 
cubes, and serve them up with the sauce made with one ounce 
of cheese. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Scalloped Potatoes with Cheese, No. 1. — Put into a 
buttered baking-dish alternate layers of the cheese sauce made 
with one ounce grated cheese, and of cold boiled potatoes, 



136 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

sliced or cut into dice. Cover with buttered crumbs, and bake. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Scalloped Potatoes with Cheese, No. 2. — Put into a 
buttered baking-dish alternate layers of white sauce and cold 
boiled potatoes, either sliced or cut into dice. Put over the 
top a layer of grated cheese, and then a layer of buttered 
bread-crumbs. Brown in the oven. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Scalloped Cabbage, or Cauliflower, with Cheese. — 
Cauliflower or cabbage may be scalloped in either of the ways 
described for scalloped potatoes with cheese. Sometimes a 
cauliflower is boiled whole, spread with grated cheese, then 
with buttered bread-crumbs. It is browned in the oven, and 
served up with white sauce poured around it. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Cheese with Salads. — Cheese or cheese dishes are nowa- 
days thought an acceptable addition to salads (though the 
salads are already rich enough in protein; yet the added fat 
of the cheese is beneficial.) Neufchatel or other cheese, either 
plain or mixed with pimentos and olives, may be passed with 
lettuce, or may be cut into slices, and served up on lettuce. 
Cheese balls are often served up with salad. They are made 
of some soft cream cheese, and are frequently combined with 
chopped chives, olives, sweet peppers, chopped nuts, and the 
like, for the sake of adding flavor. Cooked egg-yolk, spinach 
extract, and the like are sometimes mixed in for the sake of 
color. If the balls are rolled in chopped olives or parsley, 
both color and flavor are supplied. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Plain Cheese Salad. — Cut Edam, or common American, 
cheese into thin pieces, scatter them over lettuce leaves, and 
serve up with French dressing. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese and Tomato Salad. — Stuff cold tomatoes with 
cheese, and serve up on lettuce leaves with French dressing. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) The tomatoes scarcely need the 
additional protein of the cheese; but the added fat is ad- 
vantageous. 

Cheese and Pimiento Salad. — Stuff canned pimientos with 
cream cheese, cut into slices, and serve up one or two slices 
to each person, on lettuce leaves with French dressing. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 



CHEESE. 137 

Cheese Jelly Salad. — Mix half a cupful of grated cheese 
with a cupful of whipped cream ; season with salt and pepper ; 
add to it a twelfth of an ounce of vegetable gelatine dissolved 
in a scant cupful of water; then, mould in a large mould, or 
in small moulds. When the jelly begins to harden, cover with 
grated cheese. The jelly should be served up on a lettuce 
leaf, preferably with a cream dressing, or a French dressing, 
to which a little grated cheese has been added. (Langworthy 
and Hunt.) 

Cheese Salad and Preserves. — Buttermilk cream, or 
ordinary cottage cheese with lettuce, or other green salad, and 
a small amount of rich home-made preserves, is a combination 
of much the same character as a dish devised by epicures with 
far more expensive preserves and dearer soft cheese ; and is 
also very appetizing. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese and Celery. — Cut stalks of celery that have deep 
groves in them into pieces about two inches long. Fill the 
grooves with cream cheese salted, or flavored with chopped 
pimentos, and serve up with bread and butter as a salad 
course; or serve up as a relish at the beginning of a meal. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Buttermilk Cream Salad Dressing. — Half a cupful of 
buttermilk cream (p. 127), a tablespoonful of vinegar, a quar- 
ter-teaspoonful of salt, and cayenne pepper. This dressing 
goes particularly well with cucumbers. (Langworthy and 
Hunt.) 

Buttermilk Cream Horseradish Salad Dressing. — To 
buttermilk cream (p. 127) add a little grated horseradish and 
vinegar and salt. Serve up on whole or sliced tomatoes. 
(Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Olive and Pimiento Sandwich, or Salad, Cheese. — Mash 
any of the soft cream cheeses, and add chopped olives and 
pimientos in equal parts. This mixture requires much salt to 
make it palatable to most tastes, the amount depending chiefly 
on the quantity of pimiento used. The mixture may be spread 
between thin slices of bread, or it may be made into a roll, 
or moulded, cut into slices, and served up in lettuce leaves 
with French dressing. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 



138 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cheese Sandwiches. — Mash, or grate, American cheese, 
add salt, a few drops of vinegar, and paprika, and a speck 
of mustard. Mix thoroughly, and spread between thin slices 
of bread. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cuban Sandwiches. — Cut the crusts from slices of bread. 
Between two slices lay, first, lettuce with a little salad dress- 
ing or salt on it; then, a slice of soft mild cheese; and finally, 
thin slices of dill pickles, or a little chopped pickle. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 

Toasted Cheese Sandwiches. — Plain bread and butter 
sandwiches, with fairly thick slices of cheese put between the 
slices, are often toasted; and, on picnics, or at chafing-dish 
suppers, are browned in a pan. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Milk and Cheese Soup. — Thicken three cupfuls of milk, 
or terralac, or part milk and part stock with iy 2 table- 
spoonfuls of flour, cooking thoroughly, best in a double boiler, 
with frequent stirring. When ready to serve up, add a cupful 
of grated cheese, some salt and paprika. The proteids in this 
soup equal in amount those of five-sixths of a pound of average 
beef; and the fuel value is higher than that of a pound of 
beef. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese and Vegetable Soup. — Cook two tablespoonfuls 
of finely chopped carrots and a tablespoonful of chopped onion 
a short time in a tablespoonful of butter, or, say, in two table- 
spoonfuls of a palatable vegetable oil; add two cupfuls of 
stock and very little mace, boiling 15 or 20 minutes. Strain, 
and add a cupful of scalded milk, or of terralac. Thicken 
with flour cooked in a tablespoonful of butter, or in two table- 
spoonfuls of oil. Just before serving up, stir in a quarter- 
cupful of grated cheese, and cook, until it is melted. Season 
with iy 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Pastry, Cheese Sweets and the Like. — Cheese 
used in pastry or dough may serve simply as a flavor, or it 
may wholly or in part replace with its fat the usual shorten- 
ing, butter or other fat, and with its protein the protein of 
eggs. Hence, its use is often an economy, when eggs are scarce. 
Better results are obtained, if soft cheese be used to work 
into the dough, much as butter or other shortening is. The 
flavor is to some an advantage ; though a very mild cheese does 



CHEESE. 139 

not much affect the flavor in combination with molasses and 
spice. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Biscuit, No. 1. — Mix two cupfuls of flour, four 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
or vegetable oil, % cupful of milk, or terralac, and *4 tea- 
spoonful of salt, in the same way as for baking-powder bis- 
cuits. Roll thin, divide into two parts; sprinkle one half with 
grated cheese; lay the other half of the dough over the cheese; 
cut out with a small cutter; and bake. (Langworthy and 
Hunt.) 

Cheese Biscuit, No. 2. — Mix, and sift, two cupfuls of 
flour, four teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and l 1 /^ tea- 
spoonfuls of salt; then work in y 4 pound of soft cheese with 
a fork, or with the fingers ; and add a cupful of water 
gradually. The water may be more or less, according as the 
particular flour used is capable of taking up moisture. Toss 
the dough on a floured board, and roll out, and cut with a bis- 
cuit-cutter. Place in a buttered pan, and bake in a quick 
oven from 12 to 15 minutes. The biscuit ma)'- be sprinkled 
with cheese before being put into the oven. If the cheese is 
soft enough, it may be measured, just as butter is; and ^ 
cupful would be used. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Wafers. — Spread grated cheese on thin crackers, 
heat in the oven, until the cheese is melted. Serve up with 
soup or salad. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Relish — Spread grated cheese over bread which 
has been toasted, or fried in deep fat; then heat in the oven, 
until the cheese is melted. Serve up with salad, or as a relish 
to flavor some dish such as boiled rice or hominy, which has 
no very marked flavor. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Straws. — Roll out plain or puff paste, until it is 
one fourth of an inch thick. Spread one half of it with grated 
cheese. Fold over the other half, and roll out again. Re- 
peat the process three or four times. Cut into strips, and 
bake. Serve up with soup, or salad. (Langworthy and 
Hunt.) 

Salad Biscuit. — Mix the same ingredients in the same way 
as in cheese biscuit, No. 2, but using half a pound of cheese. 
If the cheese is hard, mix in the same way as in cheese biscuit, 
No. 1. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 



140 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cheese Gingerbread, No. 1. — Heat a cupful of molasses 
and four ounces of cheese in a double boiler, until the cheese 
is melted. Add a teaspoonful of soda, and stir vigorously. 
Mix and sift two cupfuls of flour, two teaspoonfuls of ginger 
and !/2 teaspoonful of salt, and add them to the molasses and 
cheese alternately with half a cupful of water. Bake 15 
minutes in small buttered tins. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Gingerbread, No. 2. — Rub together four ounces 
of cheese and half a cupful of sugar ; add half a cupful of 
molasses. Mix and sift two cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful 
of soda and % teaspoonful of salt; and add them to the 
cheese mixture alternately with % cupful of water. (Lang- 
worthy and Hunt.) 

Brown Betty with Cheese. — Arrange alternate layers of 
bread-crumbs and thinly sliced apples in a deep earthenware 
baking-dish. Season with cinnamon, and, if you like, with a 
little clove, and brown sugar. Scatter some finely shaved full- 
cream cheese over each layer of apple. When the dish is full, 
scatter bread-crumbs over the top, and bake 30 to 45 minutes 
placing the dish in a pan of water, so that the pudding will 
not burn. If you prefer, sweeten with molasses and an equal 
amount of hot water poured over the top; half a cupful of 
molasses being enough for a quart pudding-dish full. Cheese 
may be used instead of butter in other apple puddings. Apple 
pie made with a layer of finely shaved cheese over the seasoned 
apple, and baked in the usual way, is liked by many who are 
fond of cheese with apple pie. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Cheese Cake Pie. — Beat eight eggs, and put them into a 
quart of boiling milk, and boil, until they become a curd ; drain 
through a very clean sieve, until all the whey is out. Put the 
curd into a deep dish, and mix it with half a pound of butter, 
working them well together. When it is cold, add the beaten 
yolks of four eggs and four large tablespoonfuls of powdered 
white sugar, and a grated nutmeg. Lastly, stir in, by de- 
grees, half a pound of dried currants that have been picked 
over, washed, dried and dredged with flour. Lay puff paste 
around the rim of the dish, and bake the cheese cake half an 
hour. Send it to the table cold. (Leslie.) The dried cur- 
rants can, of course, be omitted; and the cheese cake may be 
baked in a complete shell of paste. 



FOODS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN. 
VEGETABLES. 

Structure. — Plants consist of innumerable cells, each 
with a thin membranous wall enclosing a semi-fluid mass, in 
which lie the nucleus of cell activity and minute grains of 
starch or other material. The cell walls (called cellular tis- 
sue, or cellulose) make up the whole framework of very young 
plants; but soon, wood-cells begin to form, and grow into 
thread-like woody fibre. The hardening of the cellular tissue 
and the woody fibre make poorly grown, or stale, vegetables 
hard and indigestible. Chlorophyll, the coloring matter of 
green plants, is bleached out, or not formed (garden-blanch- 
ing, or bleaching), when light is excluded by heaping the earth 
about them, or tying them in bags ; and, at the same time, 
the cells become larger with thinner walls, the leaves smaller, 
the stems longer, the percentage of water in composition be- 
comes higher, and the plant more tender to eat. (Parloa.) 

Preparation and Cooking in General. — The simpler 
the methods of cooking and serving vegetables, the better; but 
badly cooked, water-soaked vegetables are apt to be indi- 
gestible. For the best dishes, only fresh, tender vegetables 
should be cooked. If a vegetable has lost its firmness and 
crispness, before cooking, it should be soaked in very cold 
water until plump and crisp. With new vegetables, that is 
effected in a few minutes, but with old roots and tubers it 
often takes many hours. All vegetables should be thoroughly 
cleaned just before cooking. All except dried pulse are best 
put into water that is already boiling and the water made to 
boil again as soon as possible, and kept boiling, until the end 
of cooking. During the cooking, the cover must be drawn to 
one side of the stew-pan, to allow the escape of the volatile 
parts. The cooking should be thorough, but should stop while 
the vegetable is still firm, except in the case of thick strained 
soups, or mashes. In most cases, the best seasoning is salt 
and good butter (or sweet oil). Garden-blanched vegetables 
cooked with butter and other seasonings and very little 
moisture are more savory and nutritious than if cooked in 
much clear water. (Parloa.) 

Changes during Cooking. — In cooking, the cellular tis- 
sue softens and loosens ; the nitrogenous substances, or pro- 
lyl 



142 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

teids, coagulate; the starch granules absorb moisture, swell 
and burst; and flavors and odors arise. Above 125 degrees 
Fahrenheit, changes go on, especially in the starch, and in 
odor, color and flavor. Starch does not dissolve in cold water, 
but gelatinizes in hot water, and, if very hot, becomes gummy 
and opaque. Starch cooked in just moisture enough to swell 
and burst its granules, and then kept hot without more moisture 
will continue to change, though still dry and glistening. The 
flavor grows sweeter and more nutty, the longer the starchy 
food cooks in dry heat. Only vegetables composed largely of 
starch can be kept hot in this way without acquiring a strong 
taste and poor color. In cooking, gases are formed, which, 
if retained in the food, give it a strong flavor and odor, and 
are probably harmful. Carbonic acid gas is yielded by prac- 
tically all foods ; and sulphuretted hydrogen, or other volatile 
sulphur compounds, by practically all, except the starchy 
vegetables. With thorough ventilation, the gases pass off in 
the steam, and the flavor is left better, and the wholesomeness 
improved. Overcooking toughens the texture of vegetable 
foods, and destroys the chlorophyll and other coloring matters, 
and volatilizes, or injures, the bodies that contribute to the 
flavor; and consequently deteriorates the appearance, flavor, 
digestibility and palatableness. (Parloa.) 

Kitchen-Blanching. — Blanching in the kitchen (not gar- 
den) is often used with vegetables to remove a strong or acrid 
taste and improves the quality; and can be done at any con- 
venient time, leaving the cooking to be finished shortly before 
serving the dish up. Into a large stew-pan half full of rapidly 
boiling water put a tablespoonful of salt for every two quarts 
of water. Drop the cleaned and well drained vegetables into 
the water, and as quickly as possible make it boil again. Boil 
rapidly five to twenty minutes, according to the vegetable ; then 
drain off the water. If the cooking is not to be finished at once, 
pour cold water over the vegetable to cool it quickly; then 
drain and set it aside until needed. If the cooking is to be con- 
tinued at once, do not rinse the vegetable with cold water; 
but put it into a small stew-pan with butter and the other 
seasonings, and cook gently, until it is done. A few spoonfuls 
of liquid are enough for every quart of very juicy vegetables, 
and half a pint for drier ones. The stew-pan should be cov- 
ered, except a slight opening for ventilation. Vegetables 
cooked in this way should be cut up rather small, either before 
or after the blanching. (Parloa.) 



VEGETABLES. 



SHOOTS. 



143 



ASPARAGUS. 

The season for asparagus is April and May. You must 
choose it very fresh, newly cut, without rusty spots and not 
insect-eaten ; the head of the asparagus is of a fine violet color, 
and the rest very white; the green kind is less delicate. (Fr.) 

Treat this delicious spring vegetable very simply, yet care- 
fully. (Parloa.) 

Asparagus on Toast. — Cut off the woody part, and scrape 
the lower part of the stalks. Wash well, and tie in bunches. 
Put into a deep stew-pan, with the cut ends resting on the 
bottom of the pan. Pour in boiling water to come up to the 
tender heads, but not to cover them. Add a teaspoonful of 
salt for each quart of water. Boil until the asparagus is ten- 
der; from 15 to 30 minutes according to its freshness and 
tenderness ; with the cover partially off the pan. Arrange the 
cooked asparagus on some slightly buttered slices of well 
toasted bread on a platter; season with butter and a little salt; 
and serve up at once. Save the water from the boiling, to 
use in making vegetable soup. If preferred, a cream dressing 
may be served up with asparagus. (Parloa.) 

Asparagus with White Sauce. — Scrape the asparagus, 
wash it, and cut it into equal lengths ; tie it up in little bunches. 
Boil in a sauce-pan or kettle, with a little salt, and water 
enough to cover the asparagus completely; when the water 
boils with big bubbles, put the asparagus in, and let it cook; 
it needs about a quarter of an hour; to be good, asparagus 
should be a little crisp. Drain, cut the strings, serve up on 
a napkin folded in lozenge shape, with a Norman or Parisian 
white sauce in a sauce-boat. (Fr.) 

Asparagus with Oil. — Let the asparagus cook as if to be 
eaten with a white sauce; take it from the water, and let it 
cool a little; eat it with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. (Fr.) 

Boiled Asparagus Bits. — Cut all the tender part of the 
asparagus into short pieces. Add enough water just to cover 
them; boil, until they are tender (about 15 minutes); season 
with salt and butter; and serve up in the greater part of the 
juice. (Parloa.) 

Asparagus Like Green Peas. — Take very green and small 
asparagus, but very fresh, tender and sound; cut it into small 



144 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

bits hardly as large as the end of your little ringer, stopping 
when you come to the hard part ; cast into boiling water for a 
minute or two; drain; put into a sauce-pan with some butter, 
a lump of sugar, an onion, two or three spoonfuls at most of 
water ; let it cook with a small fire, with the sauce-pan covered, 
half an hour at most; take out the onion; thicken with two 
yolks of eggs, or one yolk and one or two spoonfuls of 
cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

MILK-WEED SHOOTS. 

The young shoots of the milk-weed are almost as delicious 
as asparagus, when cut into short pieces and cooked like 
asparagus so cut up ; in fact, the milk-weed and asparagus may 
be cut up and cooked together. (Parloa.) 

SEA KALE. 

Sea kale is a delicious spring vegetable. It requires prac- 
tically the same culture as asparagus, and the young shoots 
are cooked in the same way as asparagus. Sea kale may be 
cut the third year from sowing the seed. Cutting should not 
be continued after the flower heads begin to form. The flower 
heads may be cooked in the same way as brocoli. (Parloa.) 

SHOOTS OF BRIERS AND HOPS. 

Brier Shoots or Hop Shoots with White Sauce. — Take 
some new shoots of briers or hops ; remove all that is hard 
and woody of the stem; cook them eight or ten minutes in 
boiling water with a little salt; drain them well; serve up, 
with a Parisian or Norman white sauce (p. 120) in a sauce- 
boat. (Fr.) 

Brier Shoots or Hop Shoots Like Green Peas. — Take 
new shoots of briers or hops, and prepare them like asparagus 
in green pea fashion (p. 143). (Fr.) 

POKE STALKS. 

When the young poke stalks are not larger than a man's 
little finger, and show only a tuft of leaves at top, a few 
inches above ground, is the time to gather them. They are 
unfit for table use when larger and older. Scrape the stalks, 
but do not cut off the leaves. Lay in cold water, with a little 



SHOOTS. 145 

salt, for two hours. Tie in bundles, as you do asparagus, put 
into a sauce-pan of boiling water, and cook fast three-quarters 
of an hour. Lav buttered toast in the bottom of a dish, untie 
the bundles, and pile the poke evenly upon it, buttering very 
well, and sprinkling with pepper and salt. This is a tolerable 
substitute for asparagus. (Harland.) 

BAMBOO SHOOTS. 

In Japan, China, Java and perhaps other warm countries, 
the very young shoots of the bamboo are eaten, after being 
sliced into small pieces, and cooked (say, by stewing). 

BRAKE SHOOTS. 

The early, downy shoots of the brake fern are cooked (say, 
by stewing or frying) and eaten, in Japan. 

MUSHROOMS. 

It is prudent to know mushrooms well; it is prudent even 
among the good kind, not to use the old ones with black 
wattles. Cleanse the mushroom from all spots and from the 
earth which soils them ; even peel off from some of them the 
little skin above, and throw them a_ ; ou do so into water 
mixed with a little vinegar, which hinders them from turning 
red. Drain them well before putting them into the stews 
which you wish them to garnish and to flavor. The cultivated 
mushroom, which is the one most general^ used ought to be 
chosen very white, firm, full, without any cavity between the 
head and the stem. (Fr.) 

Mushrooms for Garnishing. — Take ball-shaped mush- 
rooms that are of about equal size. Clean them, leaving a 
part of the stem; and wash them well. Take them from the 
water, and dry them with a cloth. If they are left too long 
in water, they lose some of their flavor. Put them into a 
sauce-pan with (for 25 or 30 medium-size mushrooms) an 
ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of water and a little salt. 
Stir, and stew them over a quick fire, and let them cook five 
minutes, shaking the sauce-pan often, so that they will cook 
equally. Use mushrooms so prepared for sauces and garnish- 
ing. If you do not use them at once, you can keep them in 
a pan, but take pains to cover it with paper, to prevent those 



146 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

that are not completely under water from turning black. The 
liquid from the cooking can be used to flavor sauces. (Fr.) 

Stewed Mushrooms. — Clean and wash some mushrooms 
well. For 25 or 30 medium-size ones, put into a sauce-pan 
two ounces of butter; let it brown slightly; put into it the 
mushrooms with salt, pepper and a spoonful of fine herbs 
(parsley and shallot) chopped fine. Sprinkle them with half 
a spoonful of flour; stew them over a quick fire for five 
minutes ; moisten them with a little water and broth ; let them 
cook one or two minutes longer; serve up. (Fr.) 

Stewed Mushrooms in Provencal Fashion. — Cleanse 
and wash some mushrooms well. Put them into a sauce-pan 
with one or two spoonfuls of olive oil, some salt and pepper, 
and a very little garlic chopped fine; stew them with a quick 
fire for five or six minutes; sprinkle them with a little flour; 
stew them one or two minutes; add a spoonful of water and 
two of white wine, or two spoonfuls of water and one of 
brandy, some parsley and shallot chopped fine. Boil them 
two or three bubbles, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Mushrooms in Pullet Fashion. — Cleanse and wash some 
mushrooms well. Scald them one or two minutes with boiling 
water; put them back into the cold water and drain them 
well. For 30 or 40 medium-size mushrooms, put into a sauce- 
pan some butter as large as an egg, and a tablespoonful of 
flour. As soon as the butter is melted and well mixed with 
the flour, moisten with half a cupful of water, and add salt 
and pepper; let simmer for ten minutes. Put in the mush- 
rooms; let them cook five or six minutes; thicken with two 
yolks of eggs; or with one yolk and two spoonfuls of cream 
(p. 118). (Fr.) 

Mushrooms on Toast. — Prepare mushrooms in pullet 
fashion, as just indicated. Serve them up on a fine slice 
of bread fried in butter. The mushrooms can also be served 
up in little trays made of bread (p. 287). (Fr.) 

Mushrooms on Shells. — Prepare mushrooms in pullet 
fashion as already indicated. Put them into some shells; 
scatter over them fine bread-crumbs ; sprinkle with melted but- 
ter by means of a strainer, and let them brown in a red hot 
field-furnace (a Dutch oven). (Fr.) 



SHOOTS. 147 

French Broiled Mushrooms.- — For broiling, mushrooms 
should be large and open. Cleanse them well; take out the 
stem, and place them on the griddle, the hollow side up; fill 
the hollow with a little butter, salt, pepper and fine herbs 
chopped fine; let them cook four or five minutes with a fire 
that is not too lively. Serve up on a little melted butter. (Fr.) 

Broiled Mushrooms. — Peel some good-sized mushrooms, 
and cut off the stalks ; put them in a tin with a small piece 
of butter (or some palatable oil) on each; season with pepper 
and salt, and let them stay in the oven till rather brown on 
both sides ; take out the mushrooms, pour a little water (in 
which the stalks and parings have been boiled) into the tin, 
and when it boils, pour it on the dish. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Fried Mushrooms. — Pare the mushrooms, which should 
be large ones, and put them in water, the brown side down- 
wards ; drain them carefully, on a sieve or colander ; lay them 
between two cloths till nearly dry ; sprinkle them over with 
salt and pepper; and fry them a light brown. (Vegetarian 
Cookery.) 

Stewed Mushrooms. — Wipe some large button mush- 
rooms ; boil them quickly in a little water ; then let them stew 
gently twenty minutes; adding a piece of butter (or a little 
palatable oil), mixed with a dessertspoonful of flour, a little 
pounded mace, cayenne pepper and salt; boil them, frequently 
shaking the pan round during the time, and when they are 
done, add a little good cream (or terralac). (Vegetarian 
Cookery.) 

Stuffed Mushrooms. — For twelve persons, have 15 or 16 
medium-size mushrooms, of about equal size. Cleanse and 
wash them well ; drain them well on a cloth. Cut off and chop 
up the stems. Put into the sauce-pan an ounce of butter (or 
two tablespoonfuls of palatable oil) and a spoonful of flour; 
let it melt, and brown a little, over a lively fire; put into it 
the chopped mushroom-stems ; two spoonfuls of parsley 
chopped fine, half a spoonful of shallot, salt and pepper. 
Turn one or two minutes on the fire; add a cupful of water 
or of broth. Boil down seven or eight minutes with a lively 
fire. Put into a plate that can go over the fire two spoonfuls 
of oil; set upon it the mushrooms with the hollows up; fill 
them with the stuffing which you have prepared. Scatter over 



148 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

them a little bread crumbled fine, or some bread chippings. 
Let them cook ten minutes with a fire above and below; serve 
up. (Fr.) 

Mushroom Pie. — Mushrooms, potatoes ; and two ounces of 
butter (or four tablespoonfuls of palatable oil). Peel the 
mushrooms, and if they are rather large, cut them in pieces; 
add about the same quantity of potatoes, pared and sliced; 
put them in a pie-dish with the butter (or oil) and a little 
water; season with pepper and salt; cover with paste, and 
bake it. Stew the parings and stalks of the mushrooms half 
an hour in water; then strain, and pour the liquid into the 
pie when baked. (Vegetarian Cookery.) 

Mushroom Catchup. — Nicely pick over, and carefully 
wipe clean, but do not wash, freshly gathered mushrooms that 
have been closely scrutinized to make sure they are of the 
right kind. Spread a layer of them at the bottom of a deep 
earthen pan, or jar, and then sprinkle them well with salt; 
then spread another layer of mushrooms, and another layer 
of salt, and so on alternately. Throw a folded cloth over the 
pan, or jar, and set it by the fire or in a very cool oven. 
Leave it so for 24 hours, and then mash them well with your 
hands. Next squeeze, and strain them through a bag. To 
every quart of the strained liquor add an ounce and a half 
of whole black peppers; and boil slowly in a covered vessel 
for half an hour. Then add a quarter of an ounce of all- 
spice, half an ounce of sliced ginger, a few cloves, and three 
or four blades of mace. You may also add cayenne and nut- 
meg, if you like. Then boil fifteen minutes longer (the longer 
catchup is boiled, the better it will keep), take it off, and let 
it stand a while, to settle. Pour it carefully off from the 
sediment, and put it into small bottles, filling them to the top. 
The bottles should be quite small, as it soon spoils after being 
opened. Secure them well with corks dipped in melted rosin, 
and with leather caps tied over them. (Leslie.) 

French Mushroom Catchup. — Cleanse and wash some 
mushrooms well; put them into a pan, and cover them with a 
layer of fine salt; leave them so one or two days, at most. 
Press them strongly, so as to draw out the juice. Boil this juice 
with pepper, spices, one or two cloves; skim well; when no 
more scum forms, strain, and put into bottles; cork carefully 



SHOOTS. 149 

and keep in a cool place. Put a little into the sauces you 
wish to flavor. (Fr.) 

Canning Mushrooms. — For cultivated or wild mushrooms: 
Cleanse them well, and wash with several waters. Let them 
boil two or three minutes in boiling water; throw them into 
cold water and drain them; put them into jars with about 
enough water to cover them, add a little salt, close the jars 
hermetically, and tie them. Put your jars into a kettle with 
hay about them so that they will not break in boiling. Fill 
the kettle with water so as to cover the jars completely; boil 
25 or 30 minutes. Take the kettle from the fire; but do not 
take the jars from the kettle until the water is completely 
cold, lest you crack them at contact with the air. 'When 
the jars have thus been taken from the water, let them dry 
two or three days. Cover the stoppers or covers with wax, 
and put the jars away in a dry and cool place. Mushrooms 
so prepared will be used with their water, which is commonly 
very strongly flavored. (Fr.) 

MORELS. 

There are many cities in France where morels, of the 
botanical genus Phallus, are unknown; but it is a plant of 
very agreeable taste, approaching that of the common mush- 
room, and even that of truffles. The morel has a little the 
appearance of a sponge. It is found in April and May on 
the edge of wet ditches, at the side of woods, of hedges, and 
at the foot of elms and ash trees. There is a black variety 
and a gray, which is preferred. The morels are used in the 
same ways as common mushrooms, but particularly for gar- 
nishing; only, in stews, they are less delicate than common 
mushrooms, on account of the strength of their flavor. It is 
necessary to pick them over with great care; it is still better 
to cut them in two, or even in quarters ; for the inside is often 
full of earth and insects. Morels are preserved by dry- 
ing. (Fr.) 

Drying Cepes and Morels. — For cepes (Boletus aereus, 
and B. edulis), chanterelles and morels (Phallus), the better 
way to preserve them is by drying. Pick them over, and clean 
them; but do not wash them. String them in festoons, so 
that they do not touch one another, hang them in a very dry 



150 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

place. When you wish to use these dried mushrooms, let them 
soak a quarter of an hour in cold water, drain them well and 
then make use of them. (Fr.) 

TRUFFLES. 

Choose large, heavy, round truffles, black above and 
mottled within, as firm as possible, of an agreeable odor, they 
should be washed cold in several waters and brushed with a 
brush, until it is certain that not a grain of sand remains. 
Peel them, whenever you use them in stews; and put the 
chopped peelings in the stuffings. (Fr.) 

Plain Truffles. — Wash and clean some truffles well, 
wrap each one in five or six pieces of paper, which you after- 
wards moisten, and let them cook in the hot ashes for a long 
hour, take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them 
up on a napkin. (Fr.) 

Canning Truffles. — Choose black and very firm truffles. 
Cleanse the earth from them; wash them one by one in cold 
water, rubbing them carefully with a brush, so as to remove 
all the earth; above all, do not let them soak in the water. 
When all the truffles have undergone this first cleansing, 
examine them again; clean those that have not been perfectly 
cleaned by the first operation ; and finally wash them all, until 
the water is altogether clean. Wipe them one by one with a 
cloth, and leave them spread out on another cloth, until 
the next day, so that they will dry well. Place them in 
earthen pots, and pour on them melted butter enough to cover 
them completely; let them cool; cover with a paper, and keep 
in a dry cool place. Each time that you need to use any of 
them, you will melt a little butter, so as to fill the void and 
prevent the other truffles from remaining in contact with the 
air. This method of preserving truffles is excellent. They 
can be kept several months with all their flavor; and besides, 
the method is inexpensive, for the butter which quickly takes 
the place of the precious tubercle that it encloses, can be used 
to make omelets, to put into scrambled eggs and into many 
stews, which it flavors agreeably. (Fr.) 

Some Other Mushrooms. — The French cepes are excel- 
lent mushrooms of the genus Boletus, species aereus or edulis, 
and are said to be dried and sent to market from southwestern 



SHOOTS. 151 

France, and sold cheap. They are also canned in oil. They 
appear to be the same as the matsudake (pine mushroom), a 
favorite mushroom in Japan. In that country, the shiitake 
(live-oak mushroom) is the most used, and is extremely com- 
mon in the dried form, clean and good. There is also the 
yanagidahe (willow mushroom), an excellent food. The 
Chinese dried mushrooms are also to be found in Chinese 
shops in America ; but need careful inspection and washing 
on account of the worms that are apt to infest them. Italian 
shops in America, too, have dried mushrooms of good quality, 
and clean from insects, having been imported in large tin 
boxes soldered tight. Other shops have dried mushrooms from 
Russia, on strings. There are many edible varieties of mush- 
rooms growing wild in America, and many of them are de- 
licious, but comparatively few men are expert enough to dis- 
tinguish the good kinds from the bad. 



152 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

PULSE. 

Removing the Skins. — Beans are soaked in soda and 
water, and parboiled, to remove the skins, and some of the 
seed-germ is also thereby removed. Snyder considers that 
treatment with a small amount of soda and salt in cooking 
is an advantage, since it hinders the formation of gas. The 
entire removal of the skins by sifting is advisable, when they 
seem to disagree with anybody. Specially prepared dried 
beans are sold from which the skin and germ have been re- 
moved, with the idea of making the product more wholesome. 
(Abel.) 

Dried Pulse. — A well dried bean is smooth and shining; 
one poorly dried may be of inferior quality, with folds in the 
skin. The best beans are of uniform size, not too small, nor 
a mixture of different kinds. The larger ones are generally 
preferred, because they have a smaller proportion of skin; 
but some varieties of small beans have a thin skin and fine 
flavor. Heavy, well-filled beans bring a higher price. The 
value further depends on whether the bean or pea cooks soft, 
which can only be ascertained by trial. (Abel.) 

General Preparation of Dried Pulse. — The skin of 
ripened and dried pulse is tough, leathery and indigestible. 
From the pea and lentil it is easily removed; also from many 
kinds of beans, after soaking and stirring in water, the skins 
rise to the top and may be skimmed off. Lima beans after 
soaking may easily be freed from the skins by pressing be- 
tween the fingers. Soda is often used to soften the bean skins, 
so as to remove them before baking. A teaspoonful (a fifth 
of an ounce) of baking soda dissolved in a gallon of water 
is enough. The skins are about one-sixteenth of the weight 
of the dried bean, but are mostly crude and difficultly digested 
fibre, with comparatively little protein. The soda has been 
found to make the beans more quickly digestible, and to 
quicken the cooking. Soda, too, may in some degree tend to 
counteract the bad effect of the hard water of wells or rivers 
containing lime or magnesia, which retard the cooking, and 
give a less easily digestible result, and to which distilled water, 
or rainwater, is preferable. The soft water should, if possible, 
be used both for soaking and cooking. If hard water be used, 
it would better first be boiled and poured from the sediment. 



PULSE. 153 

Soaking in fresh water seems, also, to remove a certain bitter 
taste, especially noticeable in lentils. All dry pulse needs 
long cooking to bring out the proper flavor; some say as long 
as twelve hours. The addition of butter not only improves the 
flavor, but supplies the fat lacking in the pulse, and makes a 
better balanced food. Roasting (except for the peanut) is 
not common among us. but is used in the old world, and is a 
highly effective and rapid method, and the result is palatable, 
especially if the skin be first removed. (Abel.) 

Roasted Pulse. — Roasting is almost our only way of pre- 
paring the peanut, yet we seldom or never so treat the other 
kinds of pulse. But in the Mediterranean countries, the pea 
and lentil are roasted, and form a regular article of food. In 
India, peas are parched in hot sand. Roasting has some ad- 
vantages, especially for those who have only primitive ap- 
pliances. Peanuts may be roasted with a handful of char- 
coal, while at least two hours of stewing are needed to soften 
them. Likewise, the chickpea can be parched over coals in a 
few minutes, and thereby made edible, with a taste reminding 
of popcorn and roasted chestnuts. There is a slight bitter- 
ness, due, probably to the skin, which does not slip off in 
roasting, as the peanut skin does ; and when the skin is re- 
moved with half an hour's soaking, before roasting, the 
product is improved. It is used as a substitute for coffee. 
Our common split peas are also palatable, when parched ; they 
are very hard, but in India they are ground and cooked after 
parching. (Abel.) 

Salted Beans. — String-beans are salted for winter use, 
and can be kept for months. Meanwhile a bacterium works a 
change in them similar to that effected by the fermentation 
of sour-crout; the vegetable fibre is softened, and certain 
flavors are given by the process. Such beans are a favorite 
German winter vegetable. Before cooking, they are soaked 
over night to remove the salt. (Abel.) 

Cooking Shell Beans and Green Peas. — The cellulose, 
so woody in the ripened seed, is, when young, still tender and 
easily cooked, and the flavor is excellent. Each hour after 
their removal from the vines increases the length of time neces- 
sary for their cooking. They should be stewed rather than 
boiled, with water only enough to moisten them, and the 



154 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

seasonings, including plenty of butter, should be added while 
the beans, or peas, are only half cooked. Some like a sprig 
of mint to be added to green peas when cooking; but, in gen- 
eral, so delicate a flavor as that of green peas should not be 
covered by any strong or pungent additions. The French have 
a special dish, variegated green beans, a mixture of the young 
shelled bean with string beans. To preserve the flavor, green 
beans, peas and string-beans should not be overcooked. If 
cooked only until tender, they retain their attractive color; 
when overcooked they turn yellow, or brownish, and are much 
less palatable. (Abel.) 

Canned Beans and Peas. — Much of the tastelessness of 
canned peas is said to be due to throwing away the water the 
peas are boiled in during the process of blanching. (Abel.) 

Pulse Flour. — Pulse when ground into flour, and cooked 
in soup, or baked in cakes, is much more completely digested 
than when cooked whole; but at present such flour is found, 
in the market, only mixed with the flour of cereals, and sold 
under various trade names as a nutritious and digestible food, 
especially for invalids. In preparations for the market, it 
has been cooked for a long time under pressure. In some 
European countries, bean flour is mixed with wheat flour for 
bread making, especially with wheat deficient in gluten, or 
when the gluten has deteriorated from the grain's sprouting in 
wet seasons. An addition of two to four per cent, is thought 
to improve the bread. (Abel.) 

Soup of Dried Pulse. — For six: Let a pint of dried soy 
beans, broad beans, peas (either whole green, split green or 
split yellow), dried beans (either navy beans, frijoles, Roman, 
scarlet runner, red, white, black, or lima beans), lentils, or 
the white meat of roasted peanuts be carefully and very thor- 
oughly washed, with rubbing and repeated changes of water, 
much as recommended for rice (in order to remove not only 
accumulated dust and dirt, but also all traces of mould or 
mustiness), and then soaked some hours, or over night, in cold 
water. Put them on the fire in a double boiler with enough 
cold water to cover them completely. When they are cooked, 
at the end of about an hour, or more, mash them and put 
them through a strainer, pressing them well, so that only the 
skins will be left. You should have at least three pints of the 



PULSE. 155 

mash, and it should not be too thick; if it is, you will add a 
little water. Slightly brown some butter as large as an ego:, 
or use four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, or of other palatable 
oil; put the mash into it with some slices of bread; season 
with a little salt; let it simmer a quarter of an hour; stirring 
it from time to time (if a double boiler be not used), so that 
the mash will not stick to the bottom; serve it up. You can 
also make this soup with milk (or terralac) ; and then you 
must put in a little less water and a little less butter, or oil; 
at the moment of serving up, add a pint of milk (or terralac), 
bring it to a boil, and serve up. You can also add a little 
of onion chopped fine. Cook the onion slightly in the butter 
(or oil) before adding the mash. Also, instead of putting in 
bread, you can, at the moment of serving up the soup, pour 
it upon a saucerful of small fried bread-bits (p. 286). In 
white or red bean soup, you can add a handful of French 
sorrel chopped fine; many like it with this flavoring; but 
when you put in sorrel, do not put in any onion, and do not 
brown the butter. (Fr.) 

Soup Tablets and Pea Sausage. — Finely ground peas, 
beans and lentils form the basis of many soup tablets and con- 
densed foods widely used by armies, explorers, and the like. 

The best known is the " pea sausage " which did good 
service for the German troops in war time. It consists of pea 
and lentil flour well cooked, evaporated, and mixed with a 
proportion of bacon, the proper seasonings and some preserva- 
tive. Mixed with hot water it made a very nutritious soup 
for the soldier. Though considered invaluable in emergencies, 
its continuous use brought on digestive disturbances (due 
probably to the preservative), and the eater soon tired of the 
taste (perhaps owing to the bacon with its excess of protein 
and fat). (Abel.) 

SOY BEAN. 

The soy bean of China and Japan is perhaps the most 
important food plant there, next to rice. The bean is eaten 
to a small extent boiled like other beans ; but is generally 
elaborated into a variety of products remarkably rich in pro- 
tein and fat and therefore going well with rice so deficient in 
those constituents. Soy sauce is a thick brown, very salty, 
pungent and agreeable tasting liquid made from a mixture of 



156 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the cooked bean with roasted wheat flour and salt fermented 
for some years in casks with a special ferment. It is . the 
main part of Worcestershire sauce, Harvey's sauce, and per- 
haps of some other English sauces. From this bean, also, 
there are made several important varieties of bean cheese, or 
bean curd, namely, natto, miso and tofu. (Abel.) 

For Natto, the beans are boiled several hours, until 
very soft; small portions of the hot mass are wrapped in straw 
bundles and placed in a heated, tightly closed cellar for 24 
hours. Bacteria, probably from the air or from the straw, 
work in the mass, producing an agreeable change in its taste. 
(Abel.) 

Miso is made by boiling the soy bean, and then mashing 
it to a paste, and letting it dry for about three months; then 
mixing with it to a paste some rice-malt (about three-fifths 
the quantity of the miso) and some salt and water, putting it 
into a tub or cask, closing it up and allowing it to ferment one 
year ; then, it tastes bad, and is pounded up in a large wooden 
mortar, put again into the cask, allowed to ferment a second 
year, and the taste is much improved, and it can be used; 
but a third year of like treatment still further improves it. 
(R. Takahashi.) 

For Tofu, the bean is soaked, crushed and boiled in a 
good deal of water and filtered through cloth. To the filtered 
milky liquid two per cent, of concentrated sea-brine is added, 
and probably by its calcium and magnesium salts, precipitates 
the vegetable casein, or bean curd, which is then pressed into 
little snow-white tablets. It is made fresh every day; and 
unlike natto and miso, requires no bacteria or ferment. (Abel.) 
It is sometimes cooked in sesame oil, or rapeseed oil, before 
being eaten (aburage) j and if good oil is used, is delicious. 
Tofu that has been frozen (koritofu) keeps long, and is ex- 
ported to America, as aburage also is. 

Substitutes for Milk and Cheese. — The Chinese in Paris 
have been urging the culture of the soy bean. The seeds, 
when boiled, mashed and pressed, yield both milk and cheese; 
if thinned with water, a very good substitute for animal milk; 
and if coagulated with mineral salt, a cheese that is usually 
eaten fresh, though it may be preserved by salting or smok- 
ing, after being cooked. Three varieties of the cheese are 



PULSE. 157 

common in the oriental markets ; a fermented kind, white, yel- 
low, or gray in color, with a piquant taste, like roquefort ; a 
salty and white kind, like goats' milk cheese ; and a third kind, 
smoky and resembling Gruyere. The soy cheese costs about 
a fiftieth as much as animal cheese; and in nutritive value, 
like the vegetable milk, compares very favorably with the 
ordinary products of the cow. (" Phila. Ledger," Sept. 27, 
1906.) " 

Comparison with Eggs, Milk and Cheese. — The follow- 
ing table of the percentage composition (disregarding water) 
of the soy bean and its products (computed from the figures 
given by Abel) and of eggs, cheese and milk (computed from 
Atwater's figures) shows clearly the degree of their re- 
semblance and their relative food values: 

Protein 

Natto 48.9 

Fresh tofu 45.5 

Soy bean 38.1 

Swiss miso 30.2 

Soy No. 1. Unstated 10.5 jut tout. 22.7 

Soy No. 2. Unstated 11.3 per cent. 22.G 

Red miso 20.:? 

White miso 11.0 

Eggs 5G.2 

Cheese, full cream 39.4 

Cheese, cheddar 38.2 

Skim milk 35.8 

Whole milk 25.4 

It is seen that natto is not far inferior to eggs in protein 
and fat (indeed, regarding the water, would be closely their 
equivalent, if mixed with half its weight of water), besides 
having some carbohydrates ; and that natto and fresh tofu are 
decidedly richer in protein and carbohydrates than cheese, 
though having only about three-fifths as much fat; and that 
natto and fresh tofu are (disregarding water) much richer in 
protein than whole milk, or even skim-milk, and about as rich 
as whole milk in fat, besides having about half as much 
carbohydrates as whole milk; and that soy contains about as 
much protein as whole milk ; Swiss miso, more than as much ; 
red miso, nearly as much ; and white miso nearly half as much, 
and that the soy bean (and probably its milk, approximately) 





Carbo- 




Fal 


hydrates 


Ash 


27.!i 


19.5 


3.7 


30.9 


19.1 


4.5 


18.8 


37.8 


5.3 


15.9 


24.0 


29.9 




13.9 


52.9 




12.5 


53.G 


i 


54.5 ' 


25.2 




75.0 


13.4 


39.9 




3.9 


31.2 


3.6 


5.8 


50.7 


5.6 


5.5 


3.1 


53.7 


7.4 


30.8 


38.4 


5.4 



158 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

has a little more protein and an equally less amount of fat 
than cow's milk, but otherwise a closely similar composition. 
After all, the comparative amounts of protein are the most 
important features ; for it is easy to add fat in the form of 
oil or butter, and to add carbohydrates in the form of 
sugar, starch or any one of many vegetables or vegetable 
products, making a food even much superior to eggs, milk or 
cheese. 

BROAD BEAN, OR WINDSOR BEAN, OR MAZAGAN 
BEAN. 

Quite small broad beans are very delicate, far more so 
than can be conceived by those who have only eaten them 
fully developed. In shelling them, be careful to take off the 
sort of crescent at their head, for it has a bitter taste. (Fr.) 

Boiling Broad Beans. — When broad beans are young, 
boil them until tender, and serve them up with butter, pepper, 
salt; and chopped parsley, if relished. When they are old, 
boil them until the outer skin slips off, and then boil until 
they are tender; mash them fine, season with butter, pepper 
and salt. (Haskell.) 

Broad Beans in Pullet Fashion. — Choose broad beans 
not yet fully developed. Shell them, discarding the bitter 
part. Boil them in a sauce-pan, or kettle, over a big fire, 
with water enough to cover the beans completely; season with 
a little salt. When the water boils with great bubbles, put 
the beans in, and resume the boiling, taking good care not to 
put the cover on. It needs a quarter of an hour of cooking 
from the time when the water begins to boil again. Make a 
pullet sauce (p. 121), not too dilute, put into it the well 
drained beans, salt, pepper and a spoonful of savory, chopped 
very fine. Simmer a few minutes, thicken with yolks, or with 
yolks and cream (p. 118), and serve up. (Fr.) 

Broad Bean Soup. — See p. 154. 

PEANUTS. 

Peanuts, as is seen in our food table and diagram, are 
in composition much like nuts, though in reality, only a kind 
of pea. They are easily digestible, if well masticated; but if 



PULSE. 159 

not freshly roasted, are apt to be insufficiently comminuted in 
chewing, and to be therefore highly indigestible in large, very 
compact, hard bits. 

Roasted Peanuts. — As raw peanuts are unpalatable, it is 
customary to roast or bake them before selling them at retail. 
Though the dealers have little furnaces with a much perforated 
cylindrical metallic receptacle, which is by a crank and handle 
kept revolving on its horizontally placed axis over a charcoal 
fire, the baking or roasting can be done, without that ap- 
paratus, in an oven or in a pan over a fire, but less con- 
veniently and uniformly. 

Peanut Butter. — The roasted peanut ground into an oily 
meal has somewhat the consistency of butter, and is now mar- 
keted under the name of peanut butter. Salt is perhaps quite 
generally added during the process of manufacture. Water 
is also sometimes added, usually before serving up. Peanut 
butter is used like other butter to spread on bread, for making 
sandwiches, and in preparing a number of dishes. It contains 
more protein and less fat than common butter. It is probably 
well digested. (Abel.) A good soup is quickly made with 
a tablespoonful (say, two ounces) of peanut butter put into 
a pint of boiling water and seasoned with salt. Tomato may 
be added; or mashed potato; or both. 

Peanut Taffy. — Peanuts combined with sugar make a 
food duly rich in all the components of a model diet, in pro- 
tein, fat and carbohydrates. Take roasted peanuts, remove 
the shell and the inner thin red skin; chop, or, in a mortar, 
pound, or, in a mill, grind fine the white meats ; add an equal 
bulk of white sugar; melt, and thoroughly mix and brown in 
a sauce-pan over the fire; cool into thin cakes in shallow pans 
over snow or cold water. 

Terralac or Peanut-milk (here first published). — Shell 
some raw peanuts, and let them soak in cold water for twenty 
minutes. Then rub off the thin red skins, leaving the kernels 
white and clean, that is, blanched. Let them soak in cold 
water over night. Then, let them boil slowly in water enough 
amply to cover them for many hours — at least three hours, 
and if the fire be weak, several hours longer, until the kernels 
are soft enough to be thoroughly mashed. Then, using a 
vegetable masher, pass them through a fine strainer, say, a 



160 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

metallic one with 35 meshes to the linear inch. Then con- 
tinue to boil, or simmer, the liquid gently for some hours longer 
until all trace of a raw taste is lost. The preparation of ter- 
ralac is much facilitated by very finely comminuting the white 
kernels of the peanuts with the " Universal Food Chopper." 
The straining is then much easier and more rapid, and the 
cooking takes much less time. The milky liquid, if diluted 
with water to about 3% pints for each quart of unshelled 
peanuts, or half a pound of blanched kernels, has a close re- 
semblance in chemical composition to cow's milk, with an equal 
amount of protein, and just about enough excess of fat in the 
peanuts to counterbalance — for calories — the slight excess of 
carbohydrates in the milk, and with only about one third as 
much ash in the peanuts as the rather low amount in the milk. 
A less dilution (say, to three pints, or to one quart) would 
correspond to more concentrated cow's milk. This peanut 
milk, or terralac, has an agreeable, somewhat nutty, slightly 
sweet flavor, and can be used in almost all the ways that 
are customarjr with cow's milk, and is an advantageous sub- 
stitute for it. Curds, to be sure, cannot, so far as now known, 
be made, and there is no need to guard (by the addition of 
soda) against curdling on mixing with lemon juice, tomatoes, 
or other acid substances. In rapid drinking, or gulping, by 
adults, there is no danger that, with the sour gastric juice 
in the stomach, large indigestible lumps of curd will form. 
Terralac, too, is completely sterilized by boiling, and is much 
less exposed to contamination by harmful germs than the 
highly susceptible milk drawn in the cow stall, or barnyard, 
and carried dozens of miles in cans by rail and wagons with 
almost inevitable exposure to contact with harmful germs. 
Furthermore, the cost of the material of terralac is only about 
one third of the present retail price of milk in our cities, and 
the labor of preparing it is little, if at all, greater than with 
milk. The shelling of the peanuts could be facilitated by 
feeding them through a hopper, so as to fall between two 
rollers at such a distance apart as to crush the shells, but not 
the meats, in like manner, the moistened skins might be re- 
moved by two revolving rollers set with stiff bristle brushes. 

Terralac Custards. — Terralac may be used in making 
custards in the same way as ordinary cow's milk (p 101). 

Terralac Punch majr obviously be prepared in precisely 



PULSE. 161 

the same manner as milk punch (p. 106), and has a yet more 
agreeable taste. 

Terralac Cream. — Terralac may be enriched with olive 
oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, or other palatable vegetable 
oils ; and then is an excellent substitute for cream. Those 
oils, if well refined, have so delicate and slight a special flavor 
that it is entirely lost and imperceptible when other stronger 
flavors (such as sugar, salt, or spices for example) are added. 
The oil is thoroughly mixed to an emulsion with the terralac 
by means of the revolving egg-beater, very easily, in a few 
minutes. 

Terralac-Cream Salad-Dressing may be made in prac- 
tically the same way as the ordinary cream salad-dress- 
ing (p. 185), using terralac enriched with a palatable vegetable 
oil. Of course, vinegar, lemon juice, or lime juice can be used 
in replacing the sour-cream dressing. 

Terralac Sauce may be made in the same way as milk 
sauce (p. 107), using, if you please, a palatable vegetable oil, 
instead of the butter. Clearly, the mustard can be added, if 
desired, just as in the milk mustard sauce (p. 107). 

Terralac-Cream Sauce can plainly be made with ter- 
ralac-cream in just the same way as prescribed for cream 
sauce (p. 107). 

Terralac Creams may be prepared in the same ways as 
the creams made with cow's milk (p. 107). 

Terralac Blan c-M ange should be made in the same 
way as milk blanc-mange (p. 109) ; or, for cream, terralac 
cream (terralac enriched with oil) may be used. 

Terralac Cream Pie evidently is to be prepared by 
the same method as the cream pie made with milk (p. 110). 

Terralac Bavarian Cheese can doubtless • be made in 
the same way as ordinary Bavarian cheese (p. 110), substitut- 
ing terralac and terralac-cream for milk and cream. 

Terralac in Soup. — Terralac can advantageously replace 
milk in soups, potato soup, tomato soup and other soups. As 
terralac is not made to curdle by an acid, there is no need 
to add soda to counteract the acidity of tomatoes. 



162 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Ice-terralac, or Peanut Ice-cream. — Over the fire 
thicken with a tablespoonful and a half of wheat flour, or, yet 
better, cornstarch, three pints of terralac (made from a quart 
of raw peanuts, or half a pound of the blanched kernels, and 
corresponding to somewhat concentrated cow's milk — that is, 
less watery than ordinary milk) ; and with a revolving egg- 
beater thoroughly mix in it half a pint of olive oil, or peanut 
oil, or other palatable vegetable oil (even good cotton-seed oil 
will not give a bad flavor) ; add two thirds of a pound of 
granulated sugar, and a tablespoonful of vanilla extract, or 
the strained juice of two lemons, or other flavoring. Put the 
mixture in an ice-cream freezer, and freeze in the same way 
as ordinary ice-cream. 

Peanut Soup. — Roasted peanut kernels may be put to 
soak in cold water over night, and made into soup in the same 
way as other pulse (p. 154). Or peanut butter may be much 
more conveniently and speedily used (p. 159). 

Salted Peanuts. — Free the peanut kernels from the outer 
shell and inner skin, and bake them in an iron baking-pan in 
an oven, or over a gentle fire, while stirring them, or in a 
frying-pan over an oil stove with still more constant stirring. 
When they are of a uniform light yellow color, add some 
butter, or olive oil, enough to coat them, and let them dry. 
The fresher these nuts are when used, the better. Peanuts 
bought already roasted need only to be cooked a few minutes 
in the butter, or oil, and salted. Another way to finish salted 
nuts is, before the salt sprinkling, to glaze them with whipped 
white of egg, after they have been well roasted, or boiled 
and dried. But if previously boiled in very strong brine, the 
nuts need no outer coat of salt. The glazing excludes the air, 
and the nuts keep better. (." Phila. Ledger.") 

LENTIL. 

The lentil, unlike the pea and bean, is eaten only when 
fully ripe. The brown or reddish lentil is smaller than the 
yellow, but of more delicate flavor. (Abel.) 

Choose preferably broad lentils of a fine light color. (Fr.) 
Lentils in Good Woman's Fashion, Lentils in Breton 
Fashion, Lentils with Oil, and Lentil Soup are all pre- 
pared in the same way as white beans in those fashions (see 
pages 169 and 170). (Fr.) 



PULSE. 163 

Another Lentil Soup. — One quart of lentils; two pounds 
and a half of parsnips ; two pounds of celery ; two ounces of 
eschalots (or shallots, or scallions), or of leeks; one ounce of 
chopped parsley ; and two ounces of butter (or four table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil). Wash and pick the lentils; steep 
them 2i hours in soft water; set them on the fire in four 
quarts of water; add the vegetables and some salt; boil, till 
they are quite soft; rub through a fine colander, or coarse 
sieve, adding boiling water as required; return it to the pan; 
season with pepper and salt; stir in the butter (or oil), and 
boil a few minutes. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Baked Lentils. — Pick over and wash a quart of lentils ; 
soak them in cold water over night. In the morning, pour 
off the water, and put them into a stew-pan with two quarts 
of cold water, over the fire. When the water begins to boil, 
the lentils will rise to the top; take them off with a skimmer, 
and put them into a deep earthen dish with three ounces of 
butter and a small onion (or a clove of garlic) in the centre; 
adding a quart of boiling water mixed with a generous tea- 
spoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Put the 
dish into a moderate oven, and cook for four or five hours. 
The lentils must be kept moist, and, if need be, add a little 
water now and then. Stewed Lentils are prepared in about 
the same way, but with more water. (Parloa.) 

Moulded Lentils. — Three ounces of lentil-flour; four 
ounces of sugar; six drops of almond-flavor; and one pint of 
water. Mix the flour with a little of the cold water; set the 
rest of the water on the fire, and when it boils, pour a little 
to the flour, and mix well; put it into the pan with the sugar, 
and stir the whole quickly over the fire fifteen minutes, add- 
ing the almond-flavor; pour it into a mould previously dipped 
in cold water, and when it is cold serve it up with preserved, 
or stewed fruit. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

COWPEA. 

The cowpea, of several varieties (red pea, black pea, round 
" lady pea," large " black eye pea," " purple eye pea," mottled 
and speckled " whippoorwill pea," and many others), belongs 
to the bean family; but is the "field pea" of the Southern 
States, requiring a long season. It is used there for human 



164 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

food, as well as for cattle, partly before the pods become dry, 
and partly, for winter use. The dry peas are cooked like other 
dried beans, and they have a very agreeable and distinctive 
flavor. (Abel.) 

Cowpeas (common in our Southern States, of many 
varieties and names) are most excellent, if cooked like shell- 
beans, when green. The young pods are also cooked like 
string-beans. The ripe, dry beans are also very palatable and 
nutritious, and may be cooked like dried beans or lentils. 
(Parloa.) 

GARDEN PEA. 

The many varieties of garden pea are partly tough- 
podded or shelling peas, the only kind generally used in 
America, and partly the edible-podded, or sugar-peas. Of the 
shelling peas, there are smooth, or round-seeded, and wrinkled 
kinds. The edible-podded pea has a very tender pod, thicker 
and fleshier than the common pod. It is gathered when the 
pea is just forming, and used, pod and all, exactly like string- 
beans; and is excellent in flavor and texture, and deserves to 
be better known among us. (Abel.) The table however shows 
that the sugar pea is much poorer than the shelled pea in 
protein. 

Green peas should be gathered when about half grown, 
and should be cooked as soon as possible after gathering. 
Young and tender, like that, they are best simply boiled, and 
seasoned with salt and good butter. Some varieties lack sweet- 
ness, and a little sugar in the cooking water improves the flavor. 
Over-cooking spoils the color and flavor. Peas should be 
boiled slowly and with the cover partly off. The time re- 
quired depends on their maturity, freshness and the like. 
Young and tender ones generally take 20 or 30 minutes ; and 
the seasoning should be added while they are still firm and 
crisp. If cooked until the green color is destroyed, they 
are overdone and the delicate flavor is spoiled. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Peas with Butter. — Cover a quart of shelled peas 
generously with water in a stew-pan. When they begin to 
boil over a hot fire, draw them back, where the bubbling will 
be gentle. Keep the cover partly off. When the peas are 
tender, add a tablespoonful of salt and three tablespoonfuls 
of good butter; and, if the peas are not of a sweet kind, add 
a teaspoonful of sugar. Cook ten minutes longer. (Parloa.) 



PULSE. 165 

Peas with Lettuce. — Put a quart of green peas, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, the heart of a head of lettuce, a small 
onion, a teaspoonful of sugar and half a gill of water into a 
stew-pan; cover, and cook over the fire for five minutes, turn- 
ing them several times. Then, draw the pan back, where they 
will simmer slowly for half an hour. (Parloa.) 

Green Peas with Sugar. — For six persons, three pints of 
shelled peas. Shell the peas, wash them, put them into a 
stew-pan with two ounces of butter, the core of a lettuce head, 
or of Roman salad (if you have it), a middle-size onion, one 
or two spoonfuls of water, salt, pepper and a piece of sugar 
as large as an English walnut. Cook with a gentle fire, and 
with the stew-pan covered, stirring from time to time for half 
an hour ; take out the onion ; thicken with two yolks of eggs, 
or one yolk and two spoonfuls of cream (p. 118). You need 
not put in the thickening, if you do not wish to. When the 
peas are not very tender, nor very small, put in a little more 
water. (Fr.) 

Canned Peas. — Put the peas into a sauce-pan with some 
butter, a piece of sugar, a little salt, a little pepper; warm 
with a gentle fire, thicken with yolks of eggs, or yolks and 
cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

Mashed Green Peas. — For six persons, a pint of peas. 
Take some dried peas, put them to soak some hours in tepid 
water ; set them to soak in enough water to keep them covered. 
Once well cooked, they should be passed through the strainer. 
Let two ounces of butter brown slightly in a sauce-pan, in 
it let half of an onion chopped very fine be browned; put in 
the mashed peas ; season with salt and pepper ; let them sim- 
mer five minutes or six minutes, taking care not to let them 
stick to the bottom of the sauce-pan. This mash should not 
be too thin. The onion may be left out, if you do not like its 
flavor. The mash can be surrounded with fried bits of 
bread. (Fr.) 

Sugar-Pea Pods. — The green pods of the sugar-pea may 
be prepared like string-beans, and, when fresh and tender, 
have an exquisite flavor. Gather the pods while the seeds are 
still very small, string them, like beans, and cut them into 
two or three lengths. Cover with boiling water, and boil 
gently, until they are tender (if young and fresh, 25 or 30 



166 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

minutes). Pour off some of the water, which may serve for 
soup. Season with salt and butter, and serve up at once. 
When the seeds are large, and the pods tough, the peas may- 
be shelled and cooked like other peas, and are tender and 
fine flavored. (Parloa.) 

Peas in the Pod. — Choose newly gathered peas. Pick 
them over, washing the bits of adhering stems ; but leave the 
little knot at the head by which you take hold to eat them. 
Some remove the knots and strings before cooking; but that 
way is faulty, for it does not completely remove the strings. 
Cook in boiling water about half an hour, with plenty of water 
and without covering; drain, stew with butter; pepper and 
salt. Add a little cream, if you like it. To eat them, take 
them by the little knot at the head; once they are in the 
mouth, hold them with the teeth, and by pulling on the little 
knot draw out the strings that border the sides of the 
peas. (Ft.) 

Mashed Pea-Pods. — The green pea-pods are also boiled 
soft, and passed with strong pressure through the strainer, 
and are eaten alone, or with mashed peas. (Fr.) 

Green Pea Soup. — Put a quart of shelled peas into a 
stew-pan with three pints of boiling water, and cook them 
tender in about half an hour. Pour off the water, saving it 
for use later. Mash the peas fine; then add the water they 
were boiled in; and rub them through a fine strainer. Return 
them to the sauce-pan; add a tablespoonful of flour beaten 
together with two tablespoonfuls of butter; and add three 
level teaspoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper; 
then gradually add a quart of boiling milk. Beat well, and 
cook ten minutes, stirring often. (Parloa.) 

Another Green Pea Soup. — One quart of green peas; 
two lettuces ; three onions ; half a pound of bread ; two quarts 
of pea pods, with the stalks cut off; three turnips; one table- 
spoonful of salt; and a handful of spinach, or a small bunch 
of parsley. To five quarts of boiling water add the salt, a 
piece of soda as large as a small nut, the bread, the vegetables 
(sliced), and the pea-pods; boil the whole together quickly, 
15 or 20 minutes; take off the scum; cover the pan, and con- 
tinue boiling it moderately, till the vegetables are quite soft; 
rub the soup through a wire sieve, or colander; return it into 



PULSE. 167 

the pan; add a quart of boiling water; season with pepper 
and salt, and boil it about ten minutes. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Split Pea Soup. — Pick the split peas over, that there may 
be no blemished ones among them ; then wash them, and soak 
them in cold water over night. In the morning, turn off the 
water, and put them in the soup-pot with four quarts of cold 
salted water. Simmer gently seven hours, with care not to 
let the soup burn. When it has cooked six hours, add a large 
onion, two tablespoonfuls of celery, a sprig of parsley and a 
teaspoonful of pepper. Stir the soup with a large wooden 
spoon. The soup, when done, should be thin enough to pour; 
if it has boiled too thick, add boiling water. When thoroughly 
cooked, the soup is smooth and rather mealy. If not cooked 
enough, the thick part will, after standing a few minutes, 
settle, and the top will look watery. At the end of seven 
hours, strain the soup through a sieve, and return it to a soup- 
pot. Beat together a tablespoonful of flour and a table- 
spoonful of butter (or two tablespoonfuls of palatable oil), 
until they are creamy; then stir into the soup, and simmer 
half an hour longer. If need be, add a little salt. For some 
tastes, the soup would be improved by adding a quart of hot 
milk (or terralac). Serve up little squares of fried bread in 
a separate dish. (Parloa.) 

Pea Soup. — See p. 154. 

Pea and Rice Soup. — Four ounces of peas ; four ounces of 
rice; one ounce and a half of butter (or three tablespoonfuls 
of palatable oil) ; and a quarter of an ounce of salt. After 
washing the peas and rice, steep them in fresh water 12 or 
14 hours; set them on the fire with four quarts of water, some 
salt and a small piece of soda. When all are quite soft, rub 
them through a fine colander, adding gradually a quart of 
boiling water; return the soup into the pan; season with 
pepper and salt, and boil ten minutes. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Pea and Sago Soup. — Four ounces of peas ; four ounces 
of sago; one ounce and a half of butter (or three table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil) ; and a quarter of an ounce of salt. 
After washing the peas and sago, steep them in fresh water 
12 or 14 hours; set them on the fire with four quarts of water, 



168 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

some salt, and a small piece of soda. When all are quite soft, 
rub them through a fine colander, adding gradually a quart 
of boiling water; return the soup into the pan; season with 
pepper and salt, and boil ten minutes. (" Vegetarian Cook- 
ery.") 

FIELD PEA. 

The field pea, sometimes called the Canadian field pea, has 
many varieties. It is mostly grown for fodder, but some 
varieties are eaten as a vegetable. When two-thirds grown, 
the seed is delicate and well flavored ; and the dry seed is much 
used to make split peas. It has the advantage of a longer 
season than the garden pea. (Abel.) 

NAVY BEAN. 

The navy bean like the pea-bean, is a variety of the dwarf 
kidney bean (Phaseolus nanus). It may be cooked in the 
same ways as the kidney bean, or the white bean. 

WHITE BEAN. 

The white bean is a variety of the same species as the 
common kidney-bean (Phaseolus vulgaris). 

Preliminary Boiling. — If they are fresh beans, put them 
into boiling water ; if they are dried beans, after washing them 
well, put them into cold water, and it is even well to let them 
soak some hours. Cook with plenty of water. (Fr.) 

To soften dried beans and remove their strong, acrid 
flavor, soak them over night in plenty of cold water, and 
bring to the boiling point in fresh cold water, that abundantly 
covers them. This water should then be thrown away, and 
the cooking be finished in plenty of fresh boiling water with a 
tablespoonful of salt to the quart of beans. A little soda 
(as large as a bean to the quart) in the soaking water, and 
in the scalding-water, will help to soften and sweeten old and 
hard beans. The cooking should be slow, with the cover partly 
off, until they are tender. For stewed and baked beans, stop 
the cooking when the skins begin to crack. For beans with 
a sauce let them become perfectly tender, but not broken, 
or mushy. For mashes or soups, cook them very soft. 
(Parloa.) 



PULSE. 169 

White Beans in Good Woman's Fashion. — When the 
white beans are almost cooked in the preliminary way just 
described, add butter, salt, pepper, parsley, scallion chopped 
fine; boil the sauce down. When you deem it sufficiently boiled 
down, serve up. If the water should have boiled away before 
the cooking is complete, add only hot water. (Fr.) 

White Beans in Breton Fashion. — First boil as above 
described. For a quart of beans, put two ounces of butter 
into a frying-pan or sauce-pan, and let it take a golden hue. 
Add one or two onions cut into thin round slices ; when the 
onions are of a fine color, put into it the well cooked beans 
with part of their liquor. Season with salt and pepper. Sim- 
mer with a small fire fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve up 
with the sauce, not too dilute. (Fr.) 

Stewed White Beans. — First, boil as above described. 
For a quart of beans, put into the sauce-pan a quarter of a 
pound of butter, and let it take a golden color; add the well 
drained beans, salt and pepper; brown a little over a quick 
fire, after shaking the saucepan. (Fr.) 

Stewed Dried Beans. — Cook the beans tender, but not 
broken. Drain off the water, and save it for soup. Season a 
quart of the drained beans with a tablespoonful of salt and 
half a teaspoonful of pepper; and add them to three table- 
spoonfuls of butter already hot in a large-bottomed stew-pan. 
Cook them over a hot fire 15 minutes, often turning them with 
a fork. Cover, and let them cook half an hour where they 
will not burn. If the beans are liked moist, add a cupful of 
milk (or terralac) or water, before putting them to cook the 
last half hour. The dish is more savory, if a tablespoonful of 
minced chives, shallot, or onion be fried in the butter before 
adding the beans. A tablespoonful of fine herbs may also be 
added to the beans, to make them more savory. (Parloa.) 

Dried Beans with Sauce. — The well cooked and drained 
beans may be moistened with any good sauce, and cooked for 
half an hour. (Parloa.) 

Dried Beans in Salad. — Season the cooked and drained 
beans with any of the salad dressings, and serve up as a 
salad. (Parloa.) 

White Beans with Oil. — First boil the beans, as above 
described. Drain them well; put them on a plate or a salad 



170 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

dish; on them put some parsley and some scallion chopped 
fine; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. (Fr.) 

Baked Beans. — Cook the dried beans gently, and uncov- 
ered, until the skins begin to break; then drain off the water. 
Put the beans into a bean-pot, or a deep earthen dish, with 
butter (say, 14 pound to a quart of the beans) a tablespoonful 
of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper to a quart of the 
beans, mixing them in water enough to cover the beans. If 
liked, a tablespoonful of mustard may be added, as well as a 
tablespoonful, or more, of molasses and an onion. Bake the 
beans in a very moderate oven for eight or ten hours. Add 
a little boiling water now and then, but never more than 
enough to cover the beans. Any kind of bean may be so 
cooked ; but the small pea-bean is best for " Boston baked 
beans." The lima and large white beans are best for the 
deep earthen dish. (Parloa.) 

Mashed White Beans.— For eight or ten persons take 
three pints of fresh beans, or a quart of dried ones. Boil, 
first, in the way above described; pass them through the 
strainer, but use very little of the liquor ; for this mash should 
be rather thick, much more so than for soup. Let two ounces 
of butter become golden-hued in a frying-pan; add, if you 
like, a little onion chopped fine, when the onion has taken a 
little color, add the bean mash; season with salt and pepper; 
simmer some minutes, taking care to stir the mash, so that it 
will not stick to the pan; serve up. (Fr.) 

Dried-Bean Mash. — Cook very soft a quart of beans in 
water; then drain well (saving the water), and rub through 
a fine strainer. Put a pint of the strained beans into a stew- 
pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
and hot milk (or terralac) enough (say, about half a pint) 
to make a thick mash of the beans. Cook in a double boiler 
for an hour, stirring often, and adding more milk, if the mash 
be too dry. A soup may be made with the rest of the strained 
beans and the drained water. (Parloa.) 

Dried-Bean Soup. — Wash a pint of di'ied beans, and soak 
them over night in cold water. In the morning, pour off the 
water, and put them in the soup-pot with three quarts of cold 
water. Place on the fire, and when the water comes to a boil, 



PULSE. 171 

pour it off, and throw it away. Add four quarts of boiling 
water to the beans, and put the pot where they will simmer 
for four hours; adding a tablespoonful of celery, or a few 
dried celery leaves, for the last hour of the cooking. Cook a 
large onion minced fine and four tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a stew-pan for half an hour. Drain the water from the beans, 
saving it; and put the beans into the stew-pan with the onion 
and butter. Add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook half 
an hour, stirring often. Then mash fine, and gradually add 
the water the beans were boiled in, until the soup is like thick 
cream. Then rub through a fine strainer, and return to the 
fire; add two teaspoonfuls of salt and half a teaspoonful of 
pepper ; and cook twenty minutes or more. Any kind of beans 
may be used for this soup ; the lima beans give the most 
delicate soup; but the large or small white beans are very 
satisfactory and cheaper. — In cold weather the quantity of 
beans and flavorings may be doubled ; but only six quarts of 
water are used. The resulting thick soup can be kept in a 
cold place, and a portion boiled up, as required, and thinned 
with water or milk (or terralac). (Parloa.) 

French Bean-Soup. — See p. 151. 

Cream-of-Bean Soup. — Make soup in the way just de- 
scribed ; but add only enough of the water the beans are boiled 
in to make the mixture like thin mash. Have this very hot, 
and add boiling hot milk (or terralac) to make it like thick 
cream; about a quart of the milk to three pints of the bean 
mash. Boil up at once, and serve up. It spoils a cream 
soup to let it cook manv minutes after the milk is added. 
(Parloa.) 

FRIJOL. 

The frijol is a small, flat bean frequently of a reddish 
brown or light tan color, but of other colors, too. It is next 
to maize, the staple food of Mexico and our southwestern 
territories ; and is largely used also as a green or snap bean. 
The dry frijol might apparently well be used farther north; 
it is very good both in soup and as a vegetable. (Abel.) 

SCARLET RUNNER BEAN. 

The bean of the rapidly growing ornamental scarlet run- 
ner is eaten in Europe, especially England, and often pre- 
ferred, both as string-beans and as green shell beans, to the 



172 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

beans almost exclusively so used in America; but when dry, 
they are inferior. They should be more appreciated as food 
in America. (Abel.) 

The tender green pods are " whittled " into small sections 
(after stringing), and cooked just tender in water. Like other 
green vegetables, they lose their color and delicate flavor, if 
over-cooked. They are at their best when seasoned only with 
butter and salt. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Scarlet Beans. — The pod of the scarlet bean, if 
green and young is extremely nice, when cut into three or 
four pieces and boiled. They take nearly two hours, and 
must be drained well, and mixed, like string beans, with butter 
and pepper. If gathered at the right time, when the seed 
is just perceptible, they are superior to any of the common 
beans. (Leslie.) 

LABLAB BEAN, ASPARAGUS BEAN AND MUNGO 
BEAN 

are little used in America, though eaten in oriental coun- 
tries. The green pods of the asparagus bean are largely used 
as a snap bean. The pods are long, with ten to sixteen seeds, 
more slender than string-beans, and slightly ridged along the 
middle of the two valves. It is cultivated by the Chinese in 
California, and is said to be finding favor with Americans as 
a valuable variety of snap bean. The mungo bean is highly 
esteemed in India, and eaten by the rich and by sick people, 
but always with a seasoning of asafoetida to prevent flatu- 
lence. (Abel.) The mungo bean is also called gram, in India ; 
and when dried and split is called dal. Dal is there much 
used in curries. 

STRING, SNAP OR GREEN BEAN. 

The best string, snap, or green beans have little or no 
" string," some requiring no preparation for cooking. The 
German method in cooking is to cut them transversely a few 
times, or " whittle " them. This seems to shorten the time 
of cooking, and to allow of a better distribution of the season- 
ing. They are then boiled in salted water, and drained, or 
the water may be thrown away after a few minutes of boiling, 
the beans then being stewed in as little water as possible, and 
the seasoning added when they are half done. When young 



PULSE. 173 

enough and freshly gathered, they will cook tender in 20 to 
40 minutes. (Abel.) 

Very fresh and very green and newly gathered ones 
should be chosen. They should be broken off at both ends 
and have their strings stripped off, so far as may be. (Fr.) 

In the very early stage of the pod, almost any kind of 
bean will be good, if properly cooked; but all, except the 
stringless kind, must have their strings carefully removed. 
The pods should be gathered while small and tender. If they 
should become wilted, as usually happens when they are 
brought from far south in cold weather, they must be made 
crisp and fresh by being stringed, cut up, and soaked in cold 
water for at least twelve hours. They will then cook like- 
fresh beans. (Parloa.) 

Blanching Green Beans. — Green beans should always 
be blanched. To do this, drain them from the cold water, 
and put them into rapidly boiling water, with a teaspoonful 
of salt to two quarts of water. Boil rapidly, with the cover 
partly off, for twenty minutes. Turn into a colander, and let 
cold water run on them. They are now ready to be finished 
in any way you like. The blanching can be done early in 
the day, and the cooking finished at dinner time. (Parloa.) 

Green Beans Plain. — Take a quart of beans, string them, 
if necessary, cut them into two inch lengths ; and blanch them, 
as above directed. Drain them, and put them into the sauce- 
pan with a cupful of water, a generous tablespoonful of 
butter, and a level teaspoonful of salt. Cook for ten minutes 
over a hot fire; turning them now and then. Serve up very 
hot. If the beans are not tender, it may take fifteen minutes, 
to cook them; but in any case, be careful not to over-cook, 
as this ruins the flavor, and the beans become yellow or 
brown. (Parloa.) 

Preserving. — The following, out of many ways, are the 
principal methods of preserving string beans : 

In Brine. — Gather quite fine and green ones, string them, 
put them in a glass jar, or an earthenware pot, in layers of 
two fingers in thickness, covered with salt, ending with a 
layer of salt. When the brine is formed, see that it covers 
all the beans. To use the string-beans preserved in brine: 
Let them soak two or three days in fresh water, until they 



174 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

are completely freshened; then cook them in boiling water. 
Add a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, so that they will cook 
better. When they are cooked, arrange them in various ways 
indicated for string-beans. (Fr.) 

Drying. — Pick them quite small and green; string them; 
throw them into rather salt boiling water, and let them boil 
some minutes ; drain them well. Put them on cloths in a warm 
oven, turning them several times, to make them dry well. 
When they are well dried, keep them in boxes or bags. To 
use them: Soak them some hours in cold water, and boil them 
in much water, putting them in when the water is cold. (Fr.) 

Canning. — Take them quite small and green; string them; 
throw them into rather salt boiling water, and let them boil 
some minutes, put them into wide-mouthed jars with some 
of this liquor; close the jars, and tie them tight; lay them 
in a kettle with hay between them, so that they will not break 
one another during the boiling; fill the kettle with water 
so that the jars are completely covered. Boil five minutes. 
Take the kettle from the fire; but do not take out the jars 
until the water is completely cold, lest you break them at con- 
tact with the cold air. When the jars have been taken from 
the water, let them dry two or three days; cover the stoppers 
with wax, and put away in a dry cool place. (Fr.) 

Preliminary Cooking of String-Beans. — String and 
wash. Boil in a sauce-pan, water enough to cover the beans 
completely; add a small handful of salt. When the water 
boils with great bubbles, put the beans in; recommence the 
boiling with a big fire, taking good care not to cover the sauce- 
pan; boil until the cooking is complete, which you will ascer- 
tain by pressing a piece of the string-beans between your 
fingers ; it should yield under the pressure, but not be mashed. 
It needs ten or twelve minutes (longer with a gentle fire) 
from the moment that the water begins to boil again. If this 
method be exactly followed, the beans will keep of a fine 
green color. The important points are, to put in a great 
quantity of water, the quantity of salt indicated, and to cook 
with a big fire, and with the sauce-pan uncovered. The liquor 
can be used for sorrel soup. (Fr.) 

String-Beans in Landlord's Fashion. — For eight or ten 
persons, take a pound of string-beans. Prepare and cook 



PULSE. 175 

them in the way just described. Drain them well, put them 
into the sauee-pan again, with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
and a tablespoonful of parsley chopped very fine; serve up 
as soon as the butter is melted. (Fr.) 

String-Beans with Cream. — Prepare them as in land- 
lord's fashion; but at the moment of serving up, add one or 
two spoonfuls of cream. (Fr.) 

String-Beans ix Pullet Fashion. — Prepare and cook in 
the preliminary way just described. Drain them well, and 
put them into a pullet-sauce, not too dilute; thicken with 
two yolks of eggs, or with yolks and cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

String-Bean Salad. — Prepare and cook in the prelimin- 
ary way above described. Drain them well and put them 
into a salad bowl, with a spoonful of parsley chopped fine. 
Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. (Fr.) 

Canned String-Beans. — Take them from the can or jar; 
drain them; prepare them in one of the ways above indicated 
for fresh ones. (Fr.) 

Dried String-Beans. — Let them soak over night; put 
them on the fire along with the water, taking care not to put 
in salt. When they are once cooked, which takes a longer 
time than for fresh beans, arrange them in one of the ways 
above indicated for fresh beans. (Fr.) 

Brine String-Beans. — Wash them, and take out the salt, 
until they are completely freshened (during several days, if 
need be), changing the water often. Put them to cook in 
boiling water, without covering the sauce-pan. When they 
are once cooked, which takes about fifteen minutes, arrange 
them in one of the ways above indicated for fresh string- 
beans. (Fr.) 

SHELLED KIDNEY BEANS. 

All the varieties of kidney beans, when gathered while 
the seeds are still tender, may be cooked like the lima beans. 
It takes from one to two hours. (Parloa.) 

RED-BEAN AND BLACK-BEAN. 

Red beans and black beans are prepared and cooked in 
the same way as the white beans, but take a little longer to 
cook. (Fr.) For their soups see p. 154. 



176 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

LIMA BEAN AND FLAGEOLET. 

The season for flageolets is from the beginning of July 
to the middle of October. Choose the small ones of a fine, 
green color. (Fr.) 

Drying. — They can be preserved by drying. Pick them 
before they ripen when they are still very green; shell them; 
and spread them on a table that is covered with a table-cloth 
or a blanket. When they are quite dry, put them into bags 
or wooden boxes. (Fr.) 

Boiled Green Lima Beans. — Cover a quart of the shelled 
beans with boiling water. Over the fire, boil them up quickly ; 
then draw them back, where they will just simmer until done, 
45 to 60 minutes. When they are tender, pour off a part 
of the water; season them with a teaspoonful of salt and two 
heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, or with four tablespoonfuls 
of palatable oil. (Parloa.) 

Stewed Lima Beans. — Drain the water from the beans 
boiled tender, as just described. Put the two heaping table- 
spoonfuls of butter, or four of oil, into a sauce-pan with a 
tablespoonful of flour; stir over the fire until they are smooth 
and frothy; then add the beans, and stir over the fire for five 
minutes. Draw them back, and add half a pint of water, 
or milk; simmer ten minutes. If liked, a teaspoonful of fine 
herbs may be added a few minutes before serving up. 
(Parloa.) 

Preparatory Cooking of the Lima Beans. — Wash the 
lima beans in cold water, in a sauce-pan, or a kettle; over a 
big fire boil enough water to cover them completely. When 
the water boils with great bubbles, put the beans in; start 
boiling again lively; but take care not to put on the cover, 
if you wish to have them green. Put salt in, when the cook- 
ing is half done. The cooking needs about half an hour; 
make sure by taking a bean and seeing if it bends under the 
fingers, without being mashed. (Fr.) 

Lima Beans in Landlord's Fashion. — Take the beans of 
the preparatory cooking just described from the fire and 
drain; put them into a sauce-pan with a quarter of a pound 
of butter, a teaspoonful of parsley chopped very fine; serve 
up as soon as the butter is melted. The water of the cooking 
can be used for sorrel soup. (Fr.) 



PULSE. 177 

Lima Beans with Cream. — Add to the lima beans in land- 
lord's fashion one or two spoonfuls of cream, at the moment 
of serving up. (Fr.) 

Canned Lima Beans. — Take them from the can; drain 
them; arrange them in landlord's fashion, as just de- 
scribed. (Fr.) 

Dried Lima Beans. — Let them soak over night; put them 
over the fire at the same time as the water; do not put salt 
in. When they are cooked, arrange them in landlord's fashion, 
or with cream, as just described. (Fr.) 

Lima Bean Soup. — See p. 154-. 

CHICKPEA. 

The chickpea, or the garavance, garbanzos, of Spain, or 
the East Indian gram, is practically unknown in the United 
States though largely cultivated in southern Europe and in 
Spanish America ; and in many parts of the East. It is eaten 
boiled, though more commonly roasted. (Abel.) In India, 
gram is fed to horses. 

LOCUST BEAN. 

The carob, or locust bean, grown on the Mediterranean 
shores for cattle-food, and a good deal eaten by the poorer 
people, has its ripe seeds surrounded by a sweet mucilaginous 
pulp of agreeable flavor, and when dried contains as high as 
50 per cent, of sugar. The dried pod is found on our con- 
fectioners' stands under the name of St. John's Bread. 



PREDOMES, OR EAT-ALL BEAN. 

Take eat-all beans (that is all edible including the pod) 
freshly gathered, small and very green, yet with the kernel 
well formed. To string them break off the ends, taking care 
to remove with them the strings that commonly border the 
sides, especially if the bean is a little mature. (Fr.) 

Predomes Fricasses. — String and wash the predomes, and 
cook them, with uncovered sauce-pan, half an hour in boiling 
water, in which you have put a little salt. For about a pound 



178 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of beans, brown in a sauce-pan some butter as large as an egg ; 
brown in it also a medium-size onion chopped very fine. When 
the onion is of a fine color, put the beans in with a little of 
their liquor; sprinkle with a spoonful of flour. Season with 
salt and pepper ; add a little parsley chopped fine ; stew ; sim- 
mer until the sauce is almost completely boiled away. Add 
two or three spoonfuls of cream; stir, and serve up with a 
sauce that is not dilute. If you have no cream, put in a 
quarter of a cupful of milk (or terralac) ; but then you must 
let it simmer some minutes with the milk. The predomes also 
are arranged in all the ways indicated for string-beans. (Fr.) 



LEAVES. 

SPINACH. 

Spinach may be sown in September, protected in hard 
freezing weather with leaves, straw, and the like; and in the 
very early Spring makes good spring greens. Spinach is a 
great resource in cold weather, when green vegetables are 
scarce. The common kind goes to seed quickly in hot weather ; 
but New Zealand spinach is a very different plant, and yields 
tender greens all summer. The shoots should be cut regularly ; 
if not, the old shoots become tough, and rank-flavored. Like 
most other vegetables, it is rarely cooked to perfection; yet 
it is not difficult to prepare. The simplest methods are usually 
the best for it. A good deal of time, water and patience is 
needed to wash it clean; and no other vegetable requires so 
much butter for the best result. To clean the spinach, cut off 
the roots, break the leaves apart, and drop them into a large 
pan of water; rinse them well in this water, and put them 
into a second pan of water. Continue washing in clean waters, 
until it becomes fresh and crisp. Drain from this water and 
blanch. (Parloa.) 

Blanching Spinach. — Put half a peck of thoroughly 
washed and drained spinach into three quarts of boiling water, 
with a tablespoonful of salt, in a large sauce-pan. When it 
begins to boil, draw the cover a little to one side, to allow the 
steam to escape. At the end of ten minutes from its beginning 
to boil, pour the spinach into a colander, and pour cold water 
over it, after the hot water has passed through. When the 
spinach is well drained, mince it coarsely or finely, according 
to the way it is to be served up. One peck of spinach will 
make about a pint and a half, when blanched and minced. 
(Parloa.) 

Spinach with Cream. — Blanch and mince half a peck of 
spinach. Heat two tablespoonfuls of butter in a sauce-pan 
over the fire; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and stir, until 
it is smooth and frothy; then add the minced spinach and a 
teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cook 
three minutes longer; serve up. (Parloa.) 

Spinach with Egg. — Wash, blanch and drain half a peck 
of spinach, using two teaspoonfuls of salt in the blanching 

179 



180 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

water; chop the drained spinach rather fine, return it to the 
sauce-pan, and add a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of butter; cook ten 
minutes on the fire; heap in a mound on a hot dish, and 
garnish with two hard boiled eggs cut in slices. (Parloa.) 

Spinach Cooked without Water. — Fresh spinach, when 
washed, holds water enough for cooking. Put the spinach in 
a stew-pan on the fire; cover and cook for ten minutes, press- 
ing down, and turning the spinach over several times during 
the cooking. Then turn the spinach into a chopping bowl, 
and mince rather fine. Return it to the stew-pan, and add the 
seasonings, allowing for half a peck of spinach two generous 
tablespoonfuls of butter, or four of palatable oil, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Simmer ten minutes ; or, if it is very tender, 
five minutes will be enough. Spinach so cooked will retain 
all its salts ; it will be more laxative, and have a stronger 
flavor than when blanched (boiled in water). In young, 
tender spinach this is not objectionable; but when overgrown 
spinach is cooked in its own moisture, the flavor is strong and 
somewhat acrid. (Parloa.) 

Spinach with Broth.— For six persons, one pound of 
spinach. Take off the stems, and, at the same time, cleanse 
the spinach of all straws and dirt, wash with much water, and 
drain; cook five minutes in boiling water; take the spinach 
out and cool it quickly in cold water. If you let the spinach 
cool of itself, it would turn yellow, and would have a less 
delicate taste. Press it well, so as to drive out all the water. 
Chop it up. Put it into a sauce-pan with some butter as large 
as an egg, and some salt and pepper; sprinkle over it half a 
spoonful of flour. Stir over the fire for about five minutes ; 
add two or three spoonfuls of broth; serve it up warm; sur- 
rounded by fried bits of bread. (Fr.) 

Spinach with Sugar. — Prepare, and cook as for spinach 
with broth, only put in two lumps of sugar; thicken with two 
yolks of eggs, or one yolk and one or two spoonfuls of cream 
(p. 118) ; and serve it up in the same way surrounded by fried 
bits of bread. (Fr.) 

Spinach for Coloring. — Take any quantity of spinach ; 
pound it in a mortar to extract the juice; squeeze it through 
a thin cloth ; put it in a sauce-pan over a slow fire, and when 



LEAVES. 181 

it is just ready to boil, take it off, and strain it. A small 
quantity of this juice stirred in will give any sauce, or soup, 
a green color. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

CRESS. 

There are two kinds of cress: water cress grown all the 
year in shallow running water; and upland cress, also called 
pepper grass. Cress is used in salads, giving them a pleasant 
pungency. (Beattie.) 

Water-cress Salad. — Remove the stems that are too thick 
or too hard ; likewise remove all the threads ; wash well and 
shake in a salad-basket; put into a salad bowl, and dress with 
oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, the same as a common salad 
(see lettuce.) (Fr.) 

Water-cress instead of Spinach. — In the summer, 
spinach is often acrid ; and it can then be replaced without 
too much disadvantage by water-cress. After preparing it as 
just described for a salad, cook it in the way described for 
spinach; either with sugar or with broth. (Fr.) 

SORREL. 

Sorrel, if properly protected, will make a rapid growth 
as soon as anything begins to grow in the spring. It makes 
delicious greens by itself, or it may be cooked with other 
greens. It also makes a refreshing salad. (Parloa.) 

Sorrel Mash for a Garnish. — For six persons, take six 
good handfuls of sorrel. Pick it over, remove the stems, 
wash, and drain; put over a gentle fire, with some butter as 
large as an egg, a little salt and a little pepper; let simmer 
for at least 20 minutes. Stir and mash, and even, if you 
wish to have it very fine, strain it. Thicken it with two yolks 
of eggs, or one yolk and one or two spoonfuls of cream 
(p. 118). If you think that the sorrel is very acid, you can 
throw it for a minute into boiling water and drain it, before 
cooking it with the butter. The sorrel mash can accompany 
hard or soft boiled eggs. (Fr.) 

Sorrel Soup. — Tear the tender green parts from the mid- 
ribs of the cultivated sorrel; wash in cold water, and shred 



182 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

very fine. Put a tablespoonful and a half of butter, or three 
spoonfuls of palatable oil, into a stew-pan, and add a third 
of a cupful of shredded sorrel. Cook over the fire, stirring 
often. Then add three pints of boiling water, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt; and boil ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two 
eggs well; then add to them three tablespoonfuls of milk, or 
terralac, and pour them into the soup-tureen, adding a 
spoonful and a half of butter cut into bits, or three of oil. 
Gradually pour the boiling hot soup into the tureen, stirring 
all the while, to combine the soup with the egg yolk. Add 
half a cupful of bread cut in dice and dried in the oven, or 
fried in butter. (Parloa.) 

Sorrel Soup with Bread, Rice or Vermicelli. — For six 
persons. Pick over, wash, and coarsely chop a large handful 
of French sorrel, more or less according as it is more or less 
acid. Put it on the fire with some butter as large as an egg. 
When the sorrel has cooked five minutes, add three pints of 
water and a little salt, cut into it about a quarter of a pound 
of bread in thin slices; or, instead of the bread, add five 
spoonfuls of rice well washed in warm water; or, instead of 
the rice, add (when the soup boils) one third of a pound of 
vermicelli. Boil, with the bread, two or three bubbles ; but 
with the rice, half an hour, and with the vermicelli, 20 minutes, 
from the time the boiling begins again. At the moment of 
serving up, thicken with two yolks of eggs, or one yolk and 
two spoonfuls of cream, in the following manner: Separate 
the yolks from the whites by passing them from one half of 
the egg-shell to the other; beat the two yolks, or the one yolk 
and the cream; then beat them with some spoonfuls of the 
soup, which you have set aside to cool, lest they should turn 
your thickening; then, when this mixing is complete, turn the 
thickening, little by little, and stirring the while, into the soup 
already taken from the fire; pour immediately into the tureen 
and serve up. Some leave the whites with the yolks for thick- 
ening; but that method often causes the soup to turn. If you 
should wish to use the whites, the following way is better: 
Separate the yolk and white, as just directed, and put the 
white to cook five or six minutes in the soup, before adding 
the thickening. When the white is in the soup, be careful not 
to stir the soup, lest you scatter the white. The white so 
cooked is not disagreeable in sorrel soup. (Fr.) 



Sorrel Soup with Pulse Broth. — Sorrel soup is made 
in the usual way, but instead of simply using water, the liquor 
from boiling white, red, black, lima or string-beans is used, if 
it be at hand. (Fr.) 

Sorrel Broth, or Herb Broth. — Boil a quart of water; 
when it boils with great bubbles, put into it a small handful 
of well cleansed French sorrel, two or three sprigs of chervil, 
some grains of salt, some butter as large as an English walnut, 
or a tablespoonful of palatable oil; boil two or three bubbles, 
and strain. (Fr.) 

Canning Sorrel. — In all households frequent use is made 
of sorrel; in winter, it is scarce, and consequently dear. It 
is, therefore, well to preserve it, especially as the method is 
not very expensive. Here is a very simple way: Pick the 
sorrel over, wash it, put it to melt over a gentle fire, stir it 
from time to time, and let it simmer, until all the water has 
been absorbed, and the mash is therefore sufficiently thick. 
Put it into preserve-jars. Cover with a layer of butter. Let 
it cool. Cover with a paper, and shut it up in a cool place. 
To use some of it, take off the layer of butter, and use the 
mash as you would the mash of fresh sorrel. The layer of 
butter can afterwards be used for frying. (Fr.) 

LETTUCE. 

Lettuce should be white and well-headed ; except the early 
little lettuce, that is eaten, although it is green and hardly 
headed, and is nevertheless very delicate, even more so than 
the finely headed lettuce fully in season. (Fr.) 

Salads. — Nearly all vegetables may be made into salads; 
but perhaps raw ones are more refreshing and more gen- 
erally relished than cooked ones. In America, lettuce is the 
plant most used for salads, and perhaps celery, alone or mixed 
with other materials, next. Endive, chicory, blanched dande- 
lion, and other plants should also be used for a pleasant 
variety. The Roman lettuce is a delicious kind that is less 
common in America than it deserves to be. Raw vegetables 
should be used only when young, tender and fresh. When 
boiled green vegetables are used for salad, they should not 
be cooked so long as to lose crispness and flavor. Salad dress- 
ings are usually sharp or pungent sauces intended to moisten 



184- VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and season, or " dress " the salad. The best all-round salad 
dressing is the so-called French salad dressing. It is suit- 
able for any vegetable salad, raw or cooked. Besides the 
dressing proper, several herbs, especially chervil, tarragon, 
chives and cibol are used as flavors; and some or all of them 
are considered essential to salad in France and the rest of 
continental Europe, while garlic, and hard boiled eggs are 
optional. (Parloa.) 

French Salad Dressing. — Put a quarter-teaspoonful of 
salt and an eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper into the salad 
bowl; or into a small bowl, if the sauce" is to be served up 
separately. Add a little oil, and stir well, then gradually 
add the rest of four tablespoonfuls of it, stirring all the while. 
Lastly stir in a tablespoonful of vinegar; which should be 
diluted with water, if very strong. (Parloa.) 

For an ordinary salad: Not quite a spoonful of vinegar, 
if it is very strong, hardly half a spoonful; three or four 
spoonfuls of oil; half a teaspoonful of salt; a quarter of a 
teaspoonful of pepper. Mix the pepper and salt with the 
vinegar in the salad spoon ; pour here and there upon the salad ; 
add the oil; turn the salad. It may be well for the lady of 
the house to adopt the following expedient: Before going 
to the table, put pepper, salt, oil and vinegar into the salad 
bowl; stir and beat them well together; carefully place the 
salad on this dressing. You will not turn it, until the moment 
for eating it. Preparing the dressing in advance has the ad- 
vantage of permitting it to be well mixed. (Fr.) 

Lettuce Salad with French Dressing. — Remove all the 
green tough leaves from two heads of lettuce; break off the 
tender leaves one by one, and rinse each in cold water; shake 
off the water, and lay the leaves on a piece of cheese cloth; 
and put them, wrapped tightly in the cloth, on ice. At serving 
time, put the leaves into the salad bowl. Tear into small 
bits two or three sprays of tarragon and six or eight branches 
of chervil, and mince a tablespoonful of chives or cibol, if 
liked; and sprinkle all of them over the lettuce. Sprinkle 
the French dressing, a spoonful at a time, over the salad with 
the spoon and fork, lift and turn the salad lightly and care- 
fully so as not to crush it. When all the dressing has so been 
mixed, serve it up at once. The lettuce should be crisp and 



185 



tender, with delicate flavoring herbs, the vinegar never strong, 
the oil good, and, finally, the dressing must be added just be- 
fore the salad is served up. In the summer, when head let- 
tuce is scarce, the tender young plants may be used. The 
flavor may be varied by adding other green salads and herbs, 
such as chicory, sorrel, borage, burnet, and the like. If tar- 
ragon be lacking, tarragon vinegar may be used. (Parloa.) 

Lettuce Salad. — Pick the lettuce over with care, for in 
it nestle many slugs and plant-lice. Take off the withered 
leaves and those that are too hard and green; take off the 
ribs of the others; leave whole the heart or core, of the size 
of an egg, or cut it into halves or quarters ; wash well with 
fresh water; shake well, so that no water remains; put into 
the salad bowl. Put upon the lettuce some chervil and tar- 
ragon chopped fine ; you can also use burnet, green onions and 
the like. Adorn with some nasturtium flowers, if you like. 
Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Lettuce salad 
should be turned without being pressed, for it is easily bruised. 
Hard boiled eggs are an excellent garnish for lettuce-salad ; 
cut them in quarters and arrange them on the salad in an 
ornamental way. (Fr.) Mustard may be used instead of 
pepper. 

Lettuce Salad with Cream Dressing. — Remove the 
outer leaves from a head of lettuce, leaving only crisp, clean 
bleached leaves. Break these one by one from the head, and 
if they are perfectly clean do not wash them ; if they be not 
clean, wash them quickly in cold water, and drain them. Tear 
each leaf into three or four pieces; and put them into a large 
bowl or napkin, and place them on the ice in a cold cellar. At 
evening time, put the lettuce into a salad bowl. Mix half a 
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper with 
a tablespoonful of vinegar in the salad spoon, and sprinkle 
them over the lettuce; stir well four tablespoonfuls of thick 
sweet cream, then add it, a spoonful at a time, to the salad, and 
mix by tossing the lettuce lightly with the spoon and fork. 
Serve up at once. (Parloa.) 

Lettuce Salad with Cream is prepared and arranged 
and seasoned like the ordinary lettuce-salad, only you substi- 
tute for the oil three or four spoonfuls of cream, which you 
mix with the vinegar. (Fr.) 



186 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Mayonnaise Salad Dressing. — Take the yolk of a hard 
boiled egg, one teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one third of a 
teaspoonful of salt; mix smooth with a little oil, adding a few 
drops at a time; add the yolk of a raw egg, stirring it in, 
until quite smooth; then add sweet-oil gradually, a cupful or 
more; a spoonful of vinegar is now added. If the mayonnaise 
is very thick, it is well to beat up the white of the raw egg 
to a stiff froth, and add it beaten in. (Fr.) 

Common Salad Dressing with Mustard (or Remoulade) 
is prepared in the way just described, except that no egg is 
used. Dry mustard may be used instead of mixed mustard. 

The remoulade goes well with celery. (Fr.) 

Boiled Lettuce. — Lettuce grown rather too old for salad 
may be cooked, and makes a fairly palatable dish. Wash four 
or five heads of lettuce, carefully removing thick, bitter stalks, 
and retaining all sound leaves. Cook in plenty of boiling salted 
water for ten or fifteen minutes ; then blanch in cold water 
for a minute or two. Drain, chop lightly, and heat in a stew- 
pan with some butter and salt and pepper to taste. If pre- 
ferred, the chopped lettuce may be heated with a pint of white 
sauce seasoned with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. After 
simmering for a few minutes in the sauce, it should be drawn 
to a cooler part of the stove, and the well-beaten yolks of 
two eggs are beaten in. See, also " Peas with Lettuce." 
(Parloa.) 

Lettuce with Pullet Sauce. — Take good heads of let- 
tuce; three large ones for six persons. Take off the green 
leaves ; remove every kind of slug and plant-louse ; cut the let- 
tuce heads in halves or quarters ; let them cook twenty minutes 
in boiling water ; take them out, and put them into cold water ; 
drain them; and dry them well with a cloth; put them into a 
pullet sauce, and let them cook with fire above and below for 
an hour; boil the sauce down, if it is too thin; arrange the 
lettuce in crown shape on a dish; thicken with the yolks of 
eggs or yolks and cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

Stuffed Lettuce. — Take a good and very firm head of 
lettuce, and proceed in the same way as for stuffed cabbage, 
(p. 143). (Fr.) 



LEAVES. 187 

ROMAN SALAD, OR COS-LETTUCE. 

Choose Roman salad, or cos-lettuce, very white. It is pre- 
pared and arranged in all the ways indicated for common 
lettuce. (Fr.) 

CORN SALAD. 

Corn salad is also called lamb's lettuce and fetticus (in 
French, mache). The leaves are often used in their natural 
green state, but they may be garden-blanched by being cov- 
ered with anything that excludes the light. The leaves are 
used as a salad in place of lettuce, or mixed with lettuce, or 
water-cress. The flavor is very mild, and is improved by 
mixing with some other salad plant. Corn salad is also boiled 
with mustard for greens. (Beattie.) 

CHICORY. 

Chicory is used like spinach, but should be boiled in two 
waters to remove the bitter taste. As a salad, the roots are 
dug in the autumn, and planted in dark cellars, or under a 
green-house bench, where they produce abundant blanched 
leaves, that are to be eaten raw, or that may be boiled in place 
of greens. (Beattie.) 

The season for chicory is from June to January. Choose 
it as white as possible. It is eaten in salad and in stews. (Fr.) 

Chicory Salad. — Take off the green leaves; remove the 
bigger ribs of the other leaves ; clean the rest from sand, slugs 
and plant-lice; wash in cold water; and season in the way 
indicated for lettuce-salad (p. 185). Particularly with chicory, 
a seasoning is used called the chapon: a piece of bread crust 
with no soft bread on is rubbed on all sides with a clove of 
garlic, and then put into the salad before the dressing, and 
goes very agreeably with the chicory; but you abstain from 
putting it in, when you are not sure of the taste of your 
guest. (Fr.) 

Cooked Chicory. — For six persons, twelve heads of 
chicory. Choose heads that are very fresh and very white. 
Pick them over, and, so far as possible, remove the hard parts, 
and, above all, cleanse thoroughly from every kind of worms, 
slugs and plant-lice; wash with several waters. Cook for 25 
minutes in boiling water, drain, and press well; chop up; put 



188 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

into a sauce-pan with at least two ounces of butter, or four 
tablespoonfuls of palatable oil, a spoonful of flour, some salt 
and pepper ; stir for some minutes over a quick fire. Add one 
or two spoonfuls of broth or gravy; simmer a quarter of an 
hour, serve it up in the midst of fried bread bits. (Fr.) 

Canning Chicory. — Chicory can be preserved in the same 
way as sorrel, and is at least as advantageous as sorrel. 
Chicory becomes rather dear in winter, and, for cooking, a 
large quantity is needful; it is therefore worth while to pre- 
serve it. Take off the greenish leaves and the stems; pick 
it over, and wash it well; throw it into somewhat salted boil- 
ing water; and let it cook about 25 or 30 minutes. Drain it, 
pressing it well between the two hands, and chop it up well. 
Turn it over in a sauce-pan on the fire with butter, salt and 
pepper. Simmer a quarter of an hour, so that all the water 
evaporates; put into jars, and let them cool thoroughly; cover 
with butter, and that with paper, and keep in a dry, and cool, 
place. To use the chicory so preserved, it is only necessary 
to remove the layer of butter, and warm the chicory over a 
gentle fire, adding one or two spoonfuls of water or of broth. 
The layer of butter so removed can be used for frying. (Fr.) 

ENDIVE. 

Endive is a kind of chicory. It is used as a salad at all 
times of the year when lettuce and like plants are out of 
season. (Beattie.) 

CARDOON. 

The cardoon is a thistle-like plant, much resembling the 
globe artichoke, but is grown as an annual. The growing 
leaves may toward autumn be drawn together, and the centre 
blanched, like endive. If intended for winter use, the leaves 
are not blanched in the garden, but the plants are lifted with 
a good deal of earth adhering to the roots, and are stored in a 
dark pit or cellar, to blanch. The blanched leaf stems are 
used for making salads, soups and stews. (Beattie.) 

SWISS CHARDS. 

Swiss chards are a variety of beet, with a leaf stalk and 
midrib developed, instead of the root. It is cultivated like 
spinach, and its green tender leaves are prepared exactly like 



that vegetable. The midribs of the full grown leaves may be 
cooked like celery. (Parloa.) 

BEET GREENS. 

Young beet plants make delicious greens., particularly if 
the root has attained some little size; and it is not to be 
separated from the leaves. Examine the leaves carefully, and 
reject those that are infested by insects. Wash thoroughly 
in many waters. Put into a stew-pan, and cover amply with 
boiling water. Add a teaspoon ful of salt for every two quarts 
of greens. Boil rapidly until they are tender, about thirty 
minutes. Drain off the water, chop rather coarse, season with 
butter and salt. (Parloa.) 

DANDELION. 

The dandelion, when gathered before the flowerbud has 
attained any size, makes tender greens, and is much liked by 
many for its pleasant bitter flavor. The cultivated dandelion 
is large-leaved, more tender, and milder in flavor; and is also 
a fine salad, if blanched in the garden, like celery. A small 
bed of this vegetable will give a handsome return in the spring 
for the small amount of care it requires. (Parloa.) 

The dandelion is eaten raw as a salad. Choose it as white 
as may be. It can also be cooked in the same way as chicory 
(p. 187). It much resembles chicory, and takes its place very 
well at a season when chicory is difficult to obtain. (Fr.) 

MUSTARD-LEAVES AND DOCK. 

Mustard and dock, when very young, also make excellent 
greens, and are cooked like dandelion. (Haskell.) 

VARIOUS SPRING GREENS. 

A number of plants may be left in the garden for early 
spring use. Jerusalem-artichokes, parsnips, salsify, leeks and 
potato-onions will give roots or buds as soon as the frost will 
permit digging. For greens, there are such plants as curled 
green kale and cabbage. The roots should be well earthed 
up ; and, when the hard freezing weather comes, the plants 
must be covered with hay, or straw. Many of the common 
weeds are tender and well flavored when very young. The 



190 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

white goosefoot (Chenopodium album), better known as pig- 
weed and lambsquarter, grows in almost all cultivated land; 
and, when young, makes good greens, and should be cooked 
like spinach. The marsh marigold, commonly called cowslip, 
is found in many marshy places ; and in the early spring makes 
good greens, to be cooked like spinach. Purslane, a weed 
common in most gardens, is very palatable, if cooked like 
spinach. Turnip sprouts, cabbage sprouts and collards are 
favorite greens of garden origin. (Parloa.) 

CELERY. 

Celery is at its best in the late fall and early winter, when 
the weather has been cold enough to crisp the blanched stalks. 
It is most useful as a salad and flavorer, but is perhaps most 
often eaten raw, with no dressing but salt. Only the tender, 
inner stalks should be eaten raw. The hard outside stalks 
make a delicious and wholesome dish, when properly cooked; 
and should then be blanched and served up with a sauce. 
(Parloa.) 

Celery is used as a salad and stewed. Choose it very white 
and without rusty spots. (Fr.) 

Celery Salad. — Remove the green leaves and the rusty 
spots, and wash well. Split in two or in quarters; arrange 
in fan shape in a salad bowl; put a salad-dressing (sauce 
remoulade) in a small bowl in the middle. (Fr.) 

Celery as a Side Dish. — Celery can be made into a side 
dish pleasing to the eye. When the celery has been picked 
over and washed, divide each head into four, six or sixteen 
parts ; split each little branch to a certain distance, which will 
make them curl ; surround with the celery, so arranged, a side- 
dish shell, put a mustard salad-dressing (sauce remoulade) in 
the middle. (Fr.) 

Stewed Celery. — To blanch celery in cooking, remove 
all the leaves from the stalks. Scrape off all the rusted and 
dark spots ; cut into pieces three inches long, and put into cold 
water. Wash and drain the celery, and put it into boiling 
water in a stew-pan over the fire, with a teaspoonful of salt 
for two quarts of water. Boil rapidly fifteen minutes, with 
the cover partly off. Pour off the water, and rinse with cold 
water, and then drain. The celery is now ready to finish, as 



LEAVES. !9! 

follows : Put into the stew-pan with a tablespoonful of butter, 
or two of oil, and a teaspoonful of salt for each quart of 
celery. Cover, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes, shaking 
the pan frequently. Serve it up hot. (Parloa.) 

Celery with Brown-butter Sauce. — Take off the green 
leaves and the rusty spots, and wash well. Split each head 
in two. Cook in boiling water with a little salt, pushing the 
celery under water from time to time, to prevent it from 
becoming black. Put into a sauce-pan some butter and a 
spoonful of flour; stir them over a quick fire, until they are 
of a chestnut color; moisten with a cupful of water, or of 
broth ; season with salt and pepper ; boil a quarter of an hour ; 
put the heads of the celery in, when it has been well drained 
after cooking in water, as just described; boil until the sauce 
is reduced to the needful quantity. (Fr.) 

Brown Celery. — Prepare and cook as just described for 
celery with brown-butter sauce. Butter a dish, arrange the 
celery upon it; powder it with bread crumbled very fine; 
sprinkle with melted butter by means of a strainer, brown in 
a Dutch oven almost red hot. A little grated cheese, say 
Swiss and Parmesan, may also be mixed with the bread 
crumbs that are used to powder the celerv before brown- 
ing. (Fr.) 

Celery Vinegar. — Pound two ounces of celery seed in a 
mortar, and steep it for a fortnight in a quart of vinegar ; then 
strain, and bottle it. (Leslie.) 

CABBAGE. 

Cabbage contains a comparatively large amount of sul- 
phur, and is therefore apt to be indigestible, and cause 
flatulence, when improperly cooked ; but may be cooked so as 
to be delicate and digestible. It is a highly useful vegetable, 
and can be had in the late fall, winter and spring, when 
other green vegetables are scarce. The quickest and simplest 
methods of cooking are the best for it; the essentials are plenty 
of boiling water, a hot fire, to keep the water boiling, and 
thorough ventilation, to carry off the strong-smelling gases in 
the steam. Young cabbage will cook in twenty-five or thirty 
minutes; late in the winter forty-five may be needed. When 
done, it should be crisp and tender, any green part, green; 



192 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and the white, white, not yellow or brown. Over-cooked cab- 
bage or cauliflower is more or less yellow, has a strong flavor, 
and is much inferior to the same dish properly cooked. 
(Parloa.) 

Choose cabbages that are very fresh and without traces of 
caterpillars, and let the core be very firm. If you wish to 
lay them by for the winter, you must choose the best headed 
ones; gather them in drj' weather; hang them to the ceiling 
in a cellar or storeroom, stem uppermost, head down- 
wards. (Fr.) 

Boiled Cabbage. — Cut a small head of cabbage in four 
parts, cutting down through the stock. Soak them half an 
hour in a pan of cold water, adding a tablespoonful of salt; 
this is to draw out any insects that may be hidden in the 
leaves. Take from the water, and cut into slices ; put them 
into a large stew-pan half full of water, pushing them under 
the water with a spoon. Add a tablespoonful of salt, and cook 
from twenty-five to forty-five minutes, according to the age 
of the cabbage. Turn into a colander, and drain for about 
ten minutes. Put into a chopping bowl, and mince. Season 
with butter (a scant tablespoonful, or two of oil, for a pint), 
pepper, and more salt, if need be. Cabbage cooked in this 
way will have a delicate flavor, and generally may be eaten 
without distress. With the kitchen windows open, there will 
be little or no odor in the house. (Parloa.) 

Crea'med Cabbage. — Put a pint of boiled and minced cab- 
bage with half a pint of hot milk (or terralac), half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper, into a stew-pan over the fire. Beat a 
tablespoonful of butter (or two of palatable oil) and a tea- 
spoonful of flour together until creamy; then stir them into 
the contents of the stew-pan. Simmer ten minutes, with care 
not to scorch the sauce; serve it up very hot. (Parloa.) 

Cabbage with White Sauce. — Clean the cabbage well, 
cut it in halves or quarters, remove the stump ; cook in boiling 
water seasoned with a little salt ; it needs half an hour or three 
quarters for cooking. Drain well, with pressing; serve up 
on a white sauce, Parisian or Norman. (Fr.) 

Browned Cabbage. — For a cabbage of medium size, put 
into a sauce-pan a piece of butter as large as an egg and a 
spoonful of flour; stir them over a quick fire, until the butter 



LEAVES. 198 

and flour have taken a fine dark chestnut color; then moisten 
with half a cupful of water; add two or three onions, a carrot 
cut in round slices, and a flavor-posy ; season with salt and 
pepper; let boil a quarter of an hour; then put in the cab- 
bage well cleaned and washed and cut in quarters. Let it 
cook three quarters of an hour, take out the posv, and serve 
up. (Fr.) 

Stuffed Cabbage (a warm side dish). — Select a well- 
headed cabbage; clean it well; remove the stump, yet not so 
but that the leaves will hold together. Pour upon it very 
hot boiling water; thereby, you will be able to separate the 
leaves so as to stuff them. Drain well ; fill the spaces between 
the leaves with stuffing; instead of sausage-meat, or hashed 
bacon and veal, or of force-meat, use a somewhat spicy stuffing 
with bread ; tie well together. Brown some butter as large 
as an egg and a spoonful of flour ; when they are of a fine 
dark chestnut color, moisten with a cupful of water, or of 
broth (soup-stock) , and two spoonfuls of brandy ; season with 
salt and pepper; let them boil one or two bubbles; stir. Put 
in the cabbage arranged as has just been directed; put around 
it one or two onions, a carrot cut in round slices and a flavor- 
posy (p. 206) ; let cook, with the sauce-pan well covered, four 
hours with a small fire. Remove the posv, untie, and serve 
up. (Fr.) 

White Stuffed Cabbage is arranged and cooked like the 
above-described stuffed cabbage, only the butter, or oil, and 
flour are not allowed to brown; and as soon as the butter is 
melted and mixed with the flour, add the water or broth 
(soup-stock) . At the moment of serving up, remove the posy, 
place the cabbage on the dish on which you are to present 
it at the table, untie it, and thicken the sauce with yolks of 
eggs, or with yolks and cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

Cabbage Soup. — For six persons: Boil three pints of 
water; put into it a cabbage cut in quarters (or the half, or 
the quarter of a cabbage, according to its size) ; cook an hour 
or even an hour and a half. When the cabbage is cooked, add 
a pint of milk (or terralac), some butter (or palatable oil) 
as large as an egg, some salt; at the first boil, pour the liquid 
and the cabbage upon some thin slices of bread. Into this 
soup, you can put one or two leeks cut fine, which give a rather 
agreeable flavor ; and likewise can put some potatoes in. Clean 



194 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES, 

and wash the potatoes, and add them to the cabbage at about 
the time necessary for cooking them. (Fr.) 

Cold Slaw. — Into a sauce-pan put one cupful of vinegar, 
one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, a 
pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper; let them come to a boil; 
pour them scalding over a finely shredded head of cabbage; 
and set it away until perfectly cold. Just before serving up, 
stir into it with a silver fork two tablespoonfuls of sour 
cream. (Harland.) Or raw cabbage chopped fine may be 
dressed like lettuce with a salad dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, 
mustard, and, if you like, hard boiled eggs. 

Warm Slaw. — Cut the cabbage into shavings, as for cold 
slaw (red cabbage is best) ; warm it, cover it closely in a deep 
earthen dish, on the top of a stove or in a slack oven for half 
an hour, until it is warm throughout, but not boiling. Then 
pour upon the warm cabbage a boiling dressing such as above 
described for cold slaw; and serve up at once. (Leslie.) 

Cabbage Salad. — Either red or white cabbage may be used 
for salad, and must be firm, crisp and tender. Remove the 
outer leaves, and cut the tender cabbage into fine shreds. Wash 
them well and soak them in cold water for half an hour. Drain 
and season with French dressing, or cooked salad dressing. 
Serve it up at once. (Parloa.) 

Sourcrout. — All white cabbages with large heads and not 
curly can be used to make sourcrout. Clean them, remove the 
withered leaves and the green ones ; cut the heads in halves or 
in quarters, to remove the stem and large ribs ; cut the cab- 
bage into fine shreds not larger than a blade of grass. Take 
a wine-barrel; let it be cleaned with special care; cover the 
bottom with a layer of salt; on this layer put a layer of the 
shredded cabbage; scatter over it some juniper berries, some 
European laurel (sweet-bay), some pepper-corns; press the 
cabbage down well, yet without bruising it; put on a new 
layer of cabbage, then a layer of salt, and every second layer, 
one of juniper berries, sweet-bay and pepper-corns; press 
down well. For 25 large cabbages, about four pounds of 
salt will be needed. Do not fill the barrel more than three 
quarters full ; cover the sourcrout with a piece of strong cloth, 
place on that a round board that will go into the barrel and 
rest on the sourcrout; load the board with stones and weights. 



LEAVES. 195 

After a short time, the board sinks down, and the water that 
has been formed rises above it; take off part of the water, 
but not enough to leave the board dry. You must wait at 
least a month before taking out the sourcrout. When you do 
take it out, be careful to wash the cloth and the board, be- 
fore replacing them, and to add a little fresh water after you 
have taken some from above the sourcrout. Sourcrout has a 
very bad odor, but that is no reason for worrying; for it is 
the effect of the fermentation, and the odor disappears on 
washing. Good sourcrout is very white. Sourcrout is sold 
ready-made. (Fr.) 

Pickled Red-cabbage, a side-dish. — Remove the ribs; cut 
the leaves into shreds no larger than a blade of grass; put 
them into a vessel; powder them liberally with salt; the next 
day. turn them over; leave them again twelve hours; drain 
them; put them into a pot or jar. with pepper-corns, cloves, 
small onions, and even allspice, if you have any; cover with 
strong vinegar. Keep well covered in a dry, cool place. Red 
cabbage is used in shell-shaped dishes as a side dish ; and can 
be used as a companion to gherkins, Indian pickles, pickled 
mushrooms, and the like. (Fr.) 

KALE, OR BORECOLE. 

Kale is a kind of cabbage, with loose leaves, without a 
head. Its composition and cooking are much the same as al- 
ready described for cabbage. 

There are several varieties of kale. The dwarf, green- 
curled kind is best for the table, and is a fall and spring 
vegetable. The leaves are sweeter and more tender after hav- 
ing been touched by the frost. In the north, the root may be 
banked with earth at the beginning of winter, and in ex- 
tremely cold weather may be covered lightly with hay or straw. 
In the early spring, the old stalks will produce young shoots 
that make delicious greens. (Parloa.) 

Minced Kale. — Remove all the old or tough leaves. Wash 
the kale thoroughly, and drain; then cook in a kettle of boil- 
ing water, to which has been added salt, a teaspoonful to a 
gallon of water. Boil rapidly, with the cover off, until the 
kale is tender. Pour off the water ; chop the kale rather fine ; 
put it back into the kettle; add a tablespoonful of butter, or 
two of oil, and two tablespoonfuls of water for each pint of 



196 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the minced kale; and add more salt if need be. Cook ten 
minutes, and serve up at once. The cooking requires thirty to 
fifty minutes, thirty for young and fresh kale. (Parloa.) 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Brussels sprouts are small cabbages hardly as large as an 
English walnut, and they grow on a special kind of cabbage- 
plant, at the junction of the leaves and the main stem. The 
season for Brussels sprouts is from the beginning of Novem- 
ber to the end of February. They should be chosen very green, 
very firm, freshly picked, and without yellow and withered 
leaves. (Fr.) 

Brussels Sprouts Blanched. — Remove the wilted or yel- 
low leaves from the little heads, or sprouts, cut the stock 
close to the head, and soak in salted cold water for an hour 
or more. Drain well, and put into plenty of boiling salted 
water (one teaspoonful of salt to two quarts of water). Boil 
rapidly for fifteen or twenty minutes, according to the size 
of the heads. They are now ready to cook in butter, or to 
serve up with any kind of sauce. Or the boiling water may 
be drained from the sprouts, and they can be seasoned with 
butter, salt and pepper. (Parloa.) 

Fried Brussels Sprouts. — Blanch a quart of Brussels 
sprouts, and drain them well. Put them into a broad-bot- 
tomed sauce-pan with three tablespoonfuls of butter, half a 
teaspoonful of salt and a quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Cook 
five minutes, over a hot fire, shaking frequently. Serve them 
up hot. (Parloa.) 

Brussels Sprouts in Landlord's Fashion. — For eight or 
ten persons, one pound of Brussels sprouts. Remove the stems 
and the yellow and withered leaves; wash, and drain. Boil 
in a sauce-pan, with a little salt, enough water to cover the 
sprouts completely. When it boils with large bubbles, put in 
the sprouts; let them cook with a strong fire; it needs about 
five or six minutes for the small ones, fifteen minutes for the 
large ones, counting from the moment the water begins to boil 
again. You must not cover up the Brussels sprouts while they 
are cooking, if you wish to keep their green color. When 
they are too much cooked, they lose much of their delicacy. 
When the sprouts are exactly cooked, of which you will make 



LEAVES. 197 

sure by taking one in your ringers, empty them into a strainer, 
and let them drain. Put them back in the sauce-pan with a 
quarter of a pound of butter, or four tablespoonfuls of oil, 
salt, pepper; sprinkle them with a little flour; stir them over 
a quick fire, and serve up, as soon as the butter is melted. (Fr.) 

Brussels Sprouts with White Sauce. — Clean the sprouts, 
and cook them as directed for Brussels sprouts in landlord's 
fashion. When they have been well drained, put them into 
a white sauce, either Parisian or Norman — not too dilute. You 
must not put vinegar into the white sauce for Brussels sprouts ; 
vinegar goes badly with Brussels sprouts. (Fr.) 

Brussels Sprouts with Pullet Sauce. — Clean, and cook 
the sprouts as pointed out for Brussels sprouts in landlord's 
fashion; when they have been well drained, put them into a 
pullet sauce. Thicken with two yolks of eggs or a yolk and 
cream (p. 118), and serve up. (Fr.) 

Brussels Sprouts with Brown Sauce. — Put into a sauce- 
pan some butter as large as an egg, or four tablespoonfuls of 
oil, and a spoonful of flour; stir them over a quick fire, until 
the butter and flour have taken a fine light chestnut color; 
add half a cupful of water, or of broth (soup-stock) ; let sim- 
mer a quarter of an hour, put in the sprouts cooked with water 
and salt as directed for Brussels sprouts in landlord's fashion; 
sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg; serve up. (Fr.) 

CAULIFLOWER. 

White, close-growing and firm cauliflowers should be 
chosen. (Fr.) 

Cauliflower is most delicious, when properly cooked; but 
vile when improperly so, or overcooked. (Parloa.) 

Plain Boiled Cauliflower. — Remove all the large green 
leaves and the greater part of the stalk. Let soak an hour 
or more, head down, in a pan of cold water containing for 
each quart a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar; 
in order to draw out any hidden worms. Then put the cauli- 
flower into a large stew-pan, stem-end down, and amply cover 
with boiling water. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil gently 
with the cover partly off; a full-half hour, for a large com- 
pact head; or twenty to twenty-five minutes for small heads. 
If the flowers are loose, the heat penetrates quickly; if com- 



198 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

pact, a little more time is needed, but never more than half 
an hour. Over-cooking immediately deteriorates; it is very 
common, but gives a strong flavor and a dark color, and causes 
indigestion. If the cauliflower must be kept warm any length 
of time, cover the dish with cheese-cloth. In hotels and 
restaurants, it is better to blanch it, chill it with cold water, 
and heat in salted boiling water, when needed. (Parloa.) 

Creamed Cauliflower. — Heat a tablespoonful of butter 
(or two of palatable oil) in a sauce-pan over the fire; then 
add half a tablespoonful of flour, and stir, until they are 
smooth and frothy; then gradually add a pint of milk (or ter- 
ralac), stirring all the time; when the sauce boils, add half 
a teaspoonful of salt and one-sixth of a teaspoonful of pepper, 
and a pint of plain boiled cauliflower which has been broken 
into branches and seasoned with the like amounts of salt and 
pepper. Cook ten minutes, and serve it up very hot on slices 
of toast. (Parloa.) 

Cauliflowers with White Sauce. — Remove the leaves, 
cut the stem off, but not too close, so as not to separate the 
little bunches of flowers ; examine them with great care and 
attention, on account of the little green caterpillars or other 
insects that commonly live there; and if you should have too 
much difficulty in cleaning them off, it would even be better 
to separate each head into two or four parts. Throw them 
as fast as cleaned into cold water mixed with vinegar. In a 
pot or sauce-pan boil enough water to cover the cauliflowers 
completely, and season it with salt. When it boils violently, 
put the cauliflowers in with the stem below. When they bend 
under the fingers, they are done; it takes fifteen or twenty 
minutes. Cauliflowers too much cooked are insipid. We 
recommend strongly that they should be covered with water 
throughout the boiling, for otherwise they will become black- 
ish. Take them, when once cooked, from the fire; but do not 
take them out of the water until the moment of sending them 
to the table, if you wish them to be quite white. Take them 
from the water, drain them well; put them on the dish, the 
stem below, and serve them up, with Parisian or Norman 
white sauce in a sauce dish; you can serve them up, too, with 
the white sauce around them. The cauliflowers left over can 
be cooked brown, or with cheese; or they can be fried. (Fr.) 



LEAVES. 199 

Cauliflowers with Tomato Sauce. — Prepare them, and 
cook them as for cauliflowers with white sauce; drain them 
well, and serve them up on a tomato sauce. (Fr.) 

Browned Cauliflowers. — Prepare them, and cook them 
as for cauliflowers with white sauce; drain them well; mash 
them with butter, cream, salt and pepper. Butter the bot- 
tom of a plate, put into it the cauliflowers prepared as just 
directed; level the top, sprinkle them with fine bread-crumbs, 
and, by means of a strainer, with melted butter; brown them 
in a hot oven, or in a Dutch oven. (Fr.) 

Cauliflowers with Cheese. — Prepare and cook as di- 
rected for cauliflowers with white sauce ; drain them well. For 
a good sized cauliflower, put into a sauce-pan some butter as 
large as an egg and a spoonful of flour ; stir over the fire, until 
the butter and the flour are well mixed ; moisten with a cupful 
of water, season with salt and pepper, and boil ten minutes. 
Add a saucer ful of grated cheese (say, Swiss cheese and about 
one quarter as much Parmesan) ; take from the fire. Butter 
slightly the bottom of a dish, put into it a quarter of the cauli- 
flower mashed; cover with a layer of the sauce just described; 
coat on all sides the rest of the cauliflower with the rest of 
the sauce, and place it on the layer of sauce and mashed cauli- 
flower. Powder the top with grated cheese and fine bread- 
crumbs; by means of a strainer, sprinkle with a little melted 
butter. Put in a Dutch oven with a very quick fire on top. 
Serve up of a fine color. (Fr.) 

Cauliflower with Cheese in a Simpler Way. — Prepare, 
and cook as directed for cauliflowers with white sauce; drain 
them well; mash them with butter, cream, salt and pepper 
and a saucer ful of grated cheese (say, Swiss cheese and one 
quarter as much Parmesan.) Butter slightly the bottom of a 
dish; put into it the cauliflowers; level the top; sprinkle with 
grated cheese and fine bread-crumbs. Put into the oven, or 
into a Dutch oven with a very quick fire on top, serve them up 
of a fine color. (Fr.) 

Fried Cauliflowers. — Prepare, and cook as directed for 
cauliflowers with white sauce, but a little less cooked. Drain 
them, separate them into two or three bunches, soak them in 
a little vinegar, with salt and pepper. Dip them into frying 
paste; fry to a fine golden color; serve up in the form of a 
pyramid. (Fr.) 



200 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Cauliflowers with Oil. — Prepare, and cook as directed 
for cauliflowers with white sauce. Drain them well. Eat 
them with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. (Fr.) 

Cauliflowers for Trimmings. — Clean them well, sep- 
arate them into bunches, wet them with water mixed with a 
little vinegar, let them cook as directed for cauliflowers with 
white sauce, but a little less cooked, so that they will hold 
together well. They are set around the viand of which they 
are to serve as trimmings. (Fr.) 

BROCOLI. 

Brocoli is a kind of cauliflower, and can be cooked and 
served in the same way. (Parloa.) 

Remove the withered leaves and the hard part of the stem ; 
tie into bunches the brocoli so cleaned. In a pot or in a sauce- 
pan, with a little salt, boil enough water to cover the brocoli 
completely. When it boils with large bubbles, put in the 
brocoli; let it cook ten or twelve minutes, drain it well; serve 
it up with white sauce, Norman or Parisian. (Fr.) 

COLLARDS. 

Collards are cultivated and used in the same way as cab- 
bage and kale, but withstand the heat better than either of 
them, and the type known as Georgia collards is highly 
esteemed in the South. Collards do not form a true head, but 
instead, a loose rosette of leaves, which, when blanched, are 
very tender and of delicate flavor. (Beattie, " Agriculture De- 
partment Bulletin, 255. ") 

KOHL-RABI, OR TURNIP CABBAGE. 

Kohl-rabi seems to be half-way between the cabbage and 
turnip, and its edible part is the swollen, turnip-like stem 
of the plant, just above the ground. It is fine flavored and 
delicate, if cooked when very young and tender. It should 
be used when its diameter is not more than two or three inches. 
When grown larger, it becomes tough and fibrous. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Kohl-rabi. — Wash and pare the kohl-rabi, and 
cut it into thin slices. Boil tender in slightly salted boiling 
water, with the cover partly off the stew-pan. Pour off the 
water, and season with butter, salt and pepper. Cold boiled 
kohl-rabi may be served up as a salad. (Parloa.) 



LEAVES. 201 

RHUBARB. 

Rhubarb is generally used for pies, but is sometimes stewed 
and sweetened for a sauce. 

Rhubarb is a vegetable little eaten in France, but highly 
prized in England. It has the immense advantage of being a 
resource in April, May and June, when other vegetables of 
the past year have been eaten up, and the new crop is not 
yet ready. The leaf-stems and ribs used in cooking have not 
the purgative effect of the root, and are no more cooling and 
laxative than apple-sauce. (Fr.) 

Canning Rhubarb. — Cut the rhubarb when it is young 
and tender. Wash it thoroughly, and then pare it; cut it 
into pieces about two inches long; pack in sterilized jars. 
Fill the jars to overflowing with cold water, and let them 
stand ten minutes. Drain off the water, and fill again to over- 
flowing with fresh cold water. Seal with sterilized rings and 
covers. When it is required for use, treat it like fresh rhu- 
barb. Green gooseberries may be canned in the same way. 
Rhubarb may also be stewed with sugar, and canned in the 
same way as gooseberries. (Parloa.) 

Rhubarb Sauce. — Separate the ribs, chiefly the big ones, 
from all the other parts of the leaves ; peel them ; garnish a 
baking-dish from place to place with small pieces of butter 
as large as half a filbert; powder with sugar, and with a 
little lemon zest chopped fine; upon this layer place your 
sticks of rhubarb near one another; over them here and there 
put some quite small bits of butter; powder with sugar and 
lemon-peel chopped fine. For a quarter-pound of rhubarb, 
you need a fifth of a pound of sugar, butter as large as half 
an egg, and the quarter of a lemon-peel. Cook, with fire 
above and below, about half an hour or three-quarters. At the 
moment of serving up, if you perceive that there is too much 
juice, boil it down with a quick fire; serve up. (Fr.) 

Rhubarb Pudding or Dumpling is made in exactly the 
same way, as French apple pudding, or dumpling (p. 376) ; 
only neither lemon or spices are put in; but a little finely 
chopped lemon-zest is added; and, as the rhubarb is acid, 
plenty of sugar is needed. (Fr.) 



202 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Rhubarb Pies. — Take the young green stalks of the rhu- 
barb plant, or spring fruit, as it is called in England; and 
having peeled off the thin skin, cut the stalks into small pieces 
about an inch long, and put them into a sauce-pan with plenty 
of sugar, and their own juice. Cover it, and stew it slowly, 
till it is soft enough to mash to a marmalade ; let it cool down ; 
fill with it some freshly baked shells of paste, and sprinkle 
sugar over the top. For covered pies, cut the rhubarb very 
small; mix a great deal of sugar with it, and put it in raw. 
Bake the pies three-quarters of an hour. (Leslie.) 

French Rhubarb Pie. — Make and arrange a crust, or 
paste shell, in the way indicated on page 319. Separate the 
ribs of the rhubarb, chiefly the big ones, from all the other 
parts of the leaves; peel them; cut these sticks of rhubarb 
so stripped and peeled, into little pieces of the thickness of a 
quarter-dollar; put a layer of them as thick at least as your 
finger into your dough; powder with sugar and lemon-peel 
chopped fine; cook half an hour or three-quarters. For a pie 
of the size of a large plate, you need at most a quarter-pound 
of rhubarb, a quarter of a lemon-peel, but at least an eighth 
of a pound of sugar. (Fr.) 

Another French Rhubarb Pie. — Instead of leaving the 
rhubarb in bits, as just described, you can make a marmalade 
of it; only, for a pie of the same size, you must use one half 
more of rhubarb. (Fr.) 

Rhubarb Pudding. — One pound of rhubarb ; twelve ounces 
of bread, without crust ; and sugar. Lay the rhubarb in water 
ten minutes ; cut the bread into slices a quarter of an inch 
thick; toast the slices, and soak them a few minutes in boil- 
ing water poured on a plate, and mixed with two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar; place some of the slices at the bottom of the dish; 
cut the rhubarb into pieces an inch long; fill the dish, mixing 
the sugar with it; place the other slices of toast over the top; 
bake the whole in a moderate oven; turn it out, and serve it 
up, either hot or cold. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

LEEK. 

The leek belongs to the same class as the onion, but does 
not form a true bulb, and the stem is uniformly thick through- 
out. It may be stored for winter, the same as celery. 
(Beattie.) 



LEAVES. 203 

The leek is milder in flavor than the onion or garlic; and 
is excellent in soups and in curries, and is an agreeable dish 
stewed by itself, in much the same way as onions. 

Hashed Leeks. — Cleanse a good quantity of leeks ; cut 
them into two or three pieces, rejecting the hard green part; 
wash; if they are strong-flavored, blanch them in boiling 
water; then (or, if not so treated, at once), cook them in 
water; drain them, pressing out all the water; chop them up, 
like spinach. Put a piece of butter into the sauce-pan, and 
in it half cook the leeks with a pinch of flour, some salt and 
pepper; moisten with cream, and cook; thicken with two yolks 
of eggs, and serve up with fried bread-bits. (Fr.) 

French Leek Soup. — For six persons: In a sauce-pan, 
melt some butter as large as an egg; put into it five or six 
leeks cut in thin round slices ; brown slightly. Add a quart 
of water, some salt and very little pepper. Cook twenty 
minutes, add a pint of milk (or terralac). When the boiling 
begins again, pour upon thin slices of bread. (Fr.) 

Leek Soup. — Wash the leeks, and cut off the roots. Cut 
the white part in thin slices, two cupfuls. Pare some potatoes, 
and cut them in dice, four cupfuls ; and put them in a bowl 
of cold water. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter, or four of 
oil, the leeks and four tablespoonfuls of minced onion into the 
soup-pot, and over the fire. Cook twenty minutes slowly, 
stirring often; then add three quarts of boiling water, the 
potatoes, three teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
pepper; and cook at least half an hour longer. Serve the 
soup up very hot. If it is convenient and liked, cook with the 
leeks and butter the stalks of four or five cibols ; or one shallot 
may be cut fine and cooked with the leeks. This is a delicious 
and wholesome soup, and is even better reheated the second 
time than the first. (Parloa.) 

Cream of Leek Soup is made as directed for leek soup, 
but using only three pints of water. When it is cooked, rub 
it through a sieve, return it to the soup-pot, and add one 
quart of hot milk (or terralac). Beat it with a whisk until 
it is smooth. Half a cupful of the milk may be reserved cold, 
and added to two well beaten yolks of eggs, and stirred into 
the soup, just as it is taken from the fire. The yolks make 
the soup very much richer. (Parloa.) 



204 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

SEA-SAMPHIRE (CRITHMUM MARITIMUM). 

Sea-samphire, a plant which is, so to speak, the first to 
grow on alluvial land, is found abundantly in certain countries. 
It is an agreeable food not only pickled, but also cooked like 
string beans, in landlord's fashion, with pullet sauce, &c. 
Take away all the hard, yellowish and withered parts. (Fr.) 

Pickling Sea-samphire. — Pick it over. Put it into a pot 
or a jar with enough strong vinegar to cover it entirely; add 
some small onions, peppercorns, a clove, tarragon, &c. Cover 
up, and keep in a cool place. For other preparations of sea- 
samphire, see the receipts for string beans (p. 174). (Fr.) 

PARSLEY. 

Drying. — Parsley can be preserved, just like tarragon, by 
drying in the shade; but it is less important to do so, for 
parsley can be found almost the year round. (Fr.) 

Parsley-roots and celery-roots can also be dried, and can 
be used for flavor-posies (p. 206). (Fr.) 

Crisped Parsley. — Pick over and wash young curled par- 
sley; dry it in a cloth; spread it on a sheet of clean paper 
in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn it frequently, till it 
is quite crisp. It may also be nicely crisped by spreading it 
on a dish before the fire, putting small pieces of butter upon 
it, and turning it frequently with a fork. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

CHERVIL. 

There are two kind of chervil; salad chervil and turnip- 
rooted chervil. The leaves of the salad chervil are used in 
the same way as parsley, for garnishing and in flavoring 
soups. The edible part of the turnip-rooted chervil is the root, 
which somewhat resembles the carrot, and is used in the same 
way. (Beattie.) 

TARRAGON. 

If you have a great quantity of tarragon, you can by a 
very simple method keep it for the winter, a season when 
it is excessively rare. Cut the sprigs of tarragon; shake them, 
to take off the dust; remove the cobwebs; but above all be 
careful not to wash it. When it is well cleaned, let it dry 



LEAVES. 205 

in the shade, turning it from time to time. When it is quite 
dry, put it into a well-closed jar, and shut it up in a dry place. 
This dry tarragon is used like the green for all stews where 
flavor is" desired ; except for salads, for which there is the re- 
source of tarragon vinegar. (Fr.) 

Tarragon- Vinegar for Salads. — Put a good handful of 
tarragon into a sauce-pan or earthen dish ; pour upon it a 
quart of good vinegar; cover it up, and let it steep till next 
day; strain it, and put it into a Dottle; cork it, and keep it 
in a cool place. This vinegar is especially precious in winter, 
when there is no tarragon. It is used like other vinegar. (Fr.) 

Strip about three ounces of leaves from the branches of 
tarragon; put them into a quart fruit-jar, and fill up with 
good vinegar; the best for the purpose is white wine vinegar, 
but good cider vinegar will also answer. Close the jar, and 
let it stand for about twenty days ; then strain. The best time 
to make tarragon vinegar is about the last of August, when 
the plants are large and vigorous. It may be used for salads 
and sharp sauces, when no fresh tarragon is to be had. 
(Parloa.) 

SWEET BASIL, GREEN MINT, SWEET-MARJORAM. 

Sweet Basil, Green Mint, or Sweet-marjoram Vinegar 
is made in precisely the same way as tarragon vinegar. 
(Leslie.) 

BURNET. 

Burnet- Vinegar. — Nearly fill a wide mouthed bottle with 
the fresh green leaves of burnet, cover them with vinegar, 
and let them steep two weeks. Then strain off the vinegar, 
wash the bottle, and nearly fill it again with fresh burnet 
leaves ; pour the same vinegar over them, and let it steep a 
fortnight longer. Then strain it again, and it will be fit for 
use. The flavor is exactly like that of cucumbers. (Leslie.) 

FINE-HERBS. 

In its broadest sense, the term " fine-herbs " includes all 
the delicate savory herbs, such as burnet, sweet basil, tar- 
ragon and chervil. Commonly, however, three only, parsley, 
chervil and chives, make up the seasoning called fine-herbs, 
and combine well with almost any vegetable. They are minced 



206 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

fine, and added to the sauce, soup, omelet, or the like. For 
an omelet, a teaspoonful of them for three eggs is stirred into 
the beaten eggs. To sauces, the herbs are added just before 
serving up. In general, the herbs should be washed, placed 
on a clean board, and cut with a sharp knife. Chervil and 
tarragon for use in soup or salad should be torn leaf by leaf 
into small pieces. (Parloa.) 

FLAVOR-POSY, or POT-HERBS. 

A flavor-posy (bouquet garni) is a little bunch of different 
plants put into sauces to give them flavor. It is commonly 
made up of parsley, thyme and sweet-bay (the European 
laurel, not the American). The parsley, thyme and sweet- 
bay are to be washed, the sweet-bay and the thyme are put 
in the middle ; parsley is put on both sides ; and they are tied 
together. A well prepared flavor-posy ought not to be longer 
than the little finger. The flavor-posy is of frequent use in 
cooking. It ought always to be removed before serving up the 
preparation into which it has been put. (Fr.) Such a posy, 
called pot-herbs, is sold in Philadelphia for one cent and is 
commonly made of parsley, thyme, a little celery, a green 
onion leaf and red pepper. They are tied up in a bag, and 
can be used two or three times before the strength is gone. 

The flavor-posy, or " bouquet garni," is made of two 
bunches of parsley, a sprig each of thyme and summer savory, 
a small leaf of sage, and a small bay leaf (to be purchased 
at the grocer's), all tied together. It is cooked with the dish 
from ten to twenty minutes, and then removed. (Parloa.) 

VEGETABLES FOR FLAVORING. 

Much of the excellence of well cooked vegetables depends 
upon the proper use of seasonings, sauces and flavorers. The 
flavorers selected should undoubtedly be suitable for the dish; 
but so much depends upon custom, that only general sugges- 
tions can be made. The Italians and some other races are 
much fonder of garlic than Americans are; the Germans of 
summer savory, or " bohnenkraut," in string-beans ; and the 
English, of mint with peas. Each cook must select the season- 
ings preferred by the family, and try to use them so that the 
special flavors may be most satisfactorily brought out. 
(Parloa.) 



LEAVES. 207 

Frying Vegetables for Flavoring. — Vegetables, when 
used raw as a seasoning, give a strong taste, and only a little 
of each should be used. For flavoring soups, sauces, stews, 
and the like, fried vegetables are far superior to the raw. To 
prepare them for use, clean and peel, or scrape them, then 
cut them into small pieces, and put into a sauce-pan with but- 
ter or sweet oil, allowing two large tablespoonfuls of butter, 
or four of oil, to a pint of vegetables. Stir them, over a hot 
part of the stove, until the butter and vegetables become hot. 
Partly cover the sauce-pan, and set it back where the cooking 
with frequent stirring will go on slowly for half an hour. 
Then place the pan on a hot part of the stove, and stir the 
contents until the butter begins to separate from the vegetables. 
Drain the butter, saving it. covered, in a cool, dry place, for 
use in other cooking; and add the vegetables to the dish they 
are to flavor. (Parloa.) 

Cooking Flavorers. — When a soup, sauce, or vegetable is 
to be flavored with an herb or another vegetable, the flavorer 
should be added towards the end of the cooking period. For 
the oil and other bodies that give seasoning vegetables and 
herbs their flavor, being volatile, are either driven off by long 
continued cooking, or rendered much less delicate in flavor. 
Herbs that are to be left in the dish, or served up with the 
dish, must be added just before the food is served up. The 
herbs generally served up with the dish are chervil, parsley, 
tarragon, and chives. Burnet, thyme, summer savory, sage 
and sweet-basil are cooked with the dish a short time, not 
over twenty minutes, and are then removed. Turnips, carrots, 
parsnips, celery, leeks, cibol, onions, and the like, when used 
merely as flavorers, should be tied in a bunch and cooked 
twenty or thirty minutes in the dish, and then be removed. 
Shallot and garlic, so used, should never be cut, but separated 
into cloves. One clove will be enough for a small quantity of 
soup, sauce or stew. Never fry shallots or garlic. Cook them 
in the dish to be flavored about ten minutes, then take them 
out. (Parloa.) 

NASTURTIUM. 

Nasturtium flowers are simply used as an ornament around 
salads; but their buds and the hardly formed seeds can be 
used, pickled in vinegar, instead of capers. (Fr.) 



208 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Pickling Nasturtium Buds or Seeds. — It is for a side 
dish. Choose some nasturtium buds that have not yet opened, 
or some hardly formed seeds; put them gradually, as gathered, 
into strong vinegar; add pepper-grains and small onions. 
Cover up, and keep in a dry, cool place. (Fr.) 

ANGELICA. 

Angelica Comfits. — Select angelica stalks that are very 
tender, cut them in pieces twice as long as your finger, and 
as you do so, throw them into cold water; take them out, and 
put them into water ready to boil; let them steep there an 
hour, but with the pan removed from the fire ; take the angelica 
from the water, remove the strings and skin, and throw the 
angelica, as you do so, into the pan with enough water to 
cover it, and boil it, until it bends under your fingers ; take 
it from the fire, and throw into the water half a handful, or a 
handful, of salt, to make the angelica turn green again; let 
it steep an hour, take it out, and drain it; make a syrup with 
as many pounds of sugar as of angelica, and finish in the 
same way as indicated for green-gage comfits. (Fr.) 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 

BANANA. 

The pulp of the ripe banana, the usually seedless fruit of 
a gigantic herb, contains, according to the " Encyclopaedia 
Britannica," 9th edition, leaving the water out of account: 
18.17 per cent, of protein; 2.42 per cent, of fat; 76.08 per 
cent, of carbohydrates; and 3.03 per cent, of ash. Dr. E. 
B. Smith, in his book on " Foods," also cites practically iden- 
tical results obtained, apparently independently, by Coren- 
winder, giving; protein, 18.61 per cent.; fat, 2.43 per cent.; 
carbohydrates, 76.68 per cent.; leaving, for the ash, 2.28 per 
cent. It, therefore, accords well in composition with other 
herbaceous fruits, and is an almost ideal food, nearly agree- 
ing with the average requirements of the human body; and 
it is, then, not surprising to learn that it is a veritable staff 
of life to numberless inhabitants of the tropics. Atwater, how- 
ever, gives its dry composition quite differently, and more like 
that of tree-fruits and berries, namely: protein, 5.0 per cent.; 
fat, 2.5 per cent.; carbohydrates, 88.8 per cent.; ash, 3.7 per 
cent. The 11th edition of the "Encyclopaedia Britannica'" 
does not repeat the analyses given in the 9th; but gives one 
of banana flour (by Hutchison), that somewhat resembles At- 
water's. There are many varieties of banana, though all are 
said to be of one species. In British India, where it is called 
plantain, a very small kind, three or four inches long, is 
preferred, as more delicate in flavor. In the West Indies, the 
name plantain is given to a very large kind (say, twelve, or 
even fourteen, inches long), somewhat sweeter and coarser in 
quality, than the common, six or eight inches long banana; 
and, before being eaten, it is cooked, sliced and fried, or boiled, 
or baked. Red bananas are also sweeter, " richer," than the 
ordinary yellow ones, and are sometimes cooked, fried, or made 
into fritters. Bananas are eaten raw, either alone, or cut in 
slices and with sugar and cream, or wine and orange juice. 
Cooked when green or ripe, they are fried alone or in butter, 
baked with the skins on, or made into puddings or pies. They 
may be cut into strips and dried, or pounded into a paste; 
in the latter form, they are the staple food of many Mexican 
tribes. ("American Encyclopaedia," 1873.) They are also 
dried unripe in the sun, and made into a meal, of which a 
sort of bread is made, that is said to be easily digested. 



210 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

EGGPLANT, OR BRINJAL. 

The English name, brinjal, though uncommon in America, 
is convenient for the fruit as distinguished from the plant. 
The fruit of the eggplant in America is commonly fried, the 
butter or oil used in frying making good the natural deficiency 
of fat in the fruit itself, and giving to the vegetable rather 
an ideal dry composition (that is, leaving the abundant water 
out of account), corresponding closely to the main diet of 
mankind ; for the proportion of protein is larger than in many 
other vegetable foods. 

Fried Eggplant. — Slice the eggplants about half an inch 
thick, and lay them an hour or two in salt and water, to 
remove their strong taste. Then take them out, wipe them, 
and season them with pepper only. Dip each slice of egg- 
plant in egg-yolk, and then in bread-crumbs, until both sides 
are well covered; and fry them brown, taking care to have 
them done quite through, as the least rawness is very un- 
palatable. (Leslie.) 

Another Way. — Cut the eggplant in slices about half an 
inch thick, and pare. Sprinkle them with salt, pile them on 
one another, and put a plate with a weight on top of the pile. 
Let them rest an hour; then remove the weight and plate. Add 
a tablespoonful of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half 
a teaspoonful of pepper to an egg; and beat well. Dip the 
slices of eggplant in the egg, then in dried bread crumbs; 
spread them on a dish for twenty minutes or longer. Fry 
them in deep butter (or palatable oil), until they are brown. 
(Parloa.) 

Baked Eggplant. — Cut the eggplant in two lengthwise ; 
scrape out the inside, and mash it fine, and mis it with enough 
stale bread that has been soaked in cold water to make a pint 
when the water is pressed out of it, and with a tablespoonful 
of fine-herbs, about one-fifth of a teaspoonful each of sweet- 
basil and summer savory, and two good tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter, or four of oil, two good teaspoonfuls of salt and a little 
pepper ; return the mixture to the shells ; place them in a 
pan and cook forty-five minutes in the oven. (Parloa.) 

Stuffed Eggplant. — For five or six persons take three 
medium-size eggplants. Cut into two parts lengthwise, take 
out the innermost meat. Into a sauce-pan put two spoonfuls 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 211 

of oil; place the eggplants therein, and let them half cook 
over a quick fire; when they are of a fine golden color, drain 
them upon a cloth, the hollow side down. Chop up the por- 
tion that you have taken from the interior, and press it well 
in a cloth, to draw out all the moisture. Into the sauce-pan 
with the oil put a spoonful of flour, stir over a quick fire, until 
the oil and the flour are of a fine chestnut color ; moisten with 
half a cupful of broth; into this sauce put the chopped egg- 
plant, three spoonfuls of fine-herbs chopped fine, salt, pepper; 
boil down. Garnish the pieces of eggplant with this stuffing; 
place them in the sauce-pan, adding two spoonfuls of oil; 
powder them with bread-crumbs, and let them cook ten minutes 
with fire above and below. (Fr.) 

Broiled Eggplant. — The eggplant is sliced and drained 
in the way just described for frying. Then spread the slices 
on a dish, season with pepper, baste with salad oil, sprinkle 
with dried bread-crumbs, and broil. (Parloa.) 

Eggplant on the Gridiron. — Cut the eggplants in two 
lengthwise; powder them with salt and pepper, and sprinkle 
them with s little oil ; leave them so half an hour ; let them 
cook on the gridiron with a lively fire five minutes on each 
side, sprinkling them from time to time with oil. (Fr.) 

Stewed Eggplant. — Put eggplants whole into a pot with 
plenty of water, and simmer them until quite tender. Then 
take them out, drain them, peel them, cut them up, and mash 
them smooth in a deep dish. Mix with them some grated 
bread, some powdered sweet-marjoram, a large piece of but- 
ter (or palatable oil), and a few pounded cloves. Grate a 
layer of bread over the top, and put the dish into the oven, 
to brown. The same dish must go to the table. (Leslie.) 

TOMATO. 

If possible, tomatoes should ripen fully on the vines, as 
the flavor is much better than when they are plucked green 
and then allowed to ripen. Over-cooking spoils the flavor and 
color of the tomato. (Parloa.) 

Peeling Tomatoes. — Put ripe tomatoes into a dish, and 
pour boiling water over them. When they have rested about 
a minute in the water, pour it off. The thin skin will now peel 
off readily. When a quantity of tomatoes are to be peeled, put 



212 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

them in a frying-basket, and lower them for a minute into 
boiling water enough to cover them, in a deep stew-pan a little 
more than half full, over the fire. (Parloa.) 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Peel the tomatoes, and cut them into 
small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan over the fire. Boil 
gently for twenty minutes or half an hour, counting from the 
time boiling begins. Season five minutes before the cooking 
is finished. Allow for each quart of tomato one large tea- 
spoonful each of salt and sugar, and one tablespoonful or 
more of butter. (Parloa.) 

Scalloped Tomatoes. — Out of a pint of grated bread- 
crumbs, reserve three tablespoonfuls, and spread the rest on 
a pan; brown in the oven, with care not to burn them; with 
them mix a pint of peeled and cut tomatoes, a level teaspoonful 
of salt, a trace of pepper and half a tablespoonful of butter 
(or a whole spoonful of oil), and put them into a shallow bak- 
ing dish. Spread the unbrowned crumbs on the top, and dot 
them over with another half-tablespoonful of butter cut into 
bits (or a spoonful of oil). Bake in a moderately hot oven 
for half an hour. The top of the dish should be brown and 
crisp. (Parloa.) 

Tomato Toast. — Boil a quart of peeled and cut tomatoes 
for ten minutes; then rub them through a strainer. Return 
them to the stew-pan, adding two level teaspoonfuls of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of pepper and two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Cook five minutes, over the fire. Pour the hot tomato 
over well-toasted slices of bread upon a hot platter. Serve 
up at once. A dropped, or poached, egg may be put on each 
slice of toast. (Parloa.) 

Canning Stewed Tomatoes. — Wash the tomatoes, and 
plunge them into boiling water for five minutes. Peel and 
slice them, and put them into the preserving kettle; set the 
kettle on an iron ring upon the stove. Heat them slowly, 
stirring often from the bottom. Boil thirty minutes from the 
time they begin to boil. Put into sterilized jars, and seal 
(p. 341). (Parloa.) 

Canning Whole Tomatoes. — Take eight quarts of med- 
ium-sized tomatoes and four quarts of sliced tomatoes. Put 
the peeled and sliced tomatoes into a stew-pan and cook in 
the same way as stewed tomatoes. When they have been boil- 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 213 

ing twenty minutes, take from the lire, rub through a strainer, 
and return them to the fire. While the sliced tomatoes are 
cooking, peel the whole tomatoes, and put them into sterilized 
jars. Pour into the jars enough of the stewed and strained 
tomato to fill all the interstices. Put the jars uncovered into 
a moderate oven, placing them on an asbestos-pad, or in shal- 
low pans of hot water. Cook for half an hour. Take from 
the oven, and fill to overflowing with boiling hot, strained 
tomato, then seal. If there is any of the strained tomato left, 
can it for sauces. (Parloa.) 

Stuffed Tomatoes. — For six persons, take ten tomatoes 
of equal size. Plunge them for a minute into boiling water; 
take them out, and remove the thin peel ; then, open them on 
the stem-side, making a round hole about an inch and a quarter 
in diameter; take out the seeds carefully (using the handle of 
a teaspoon) ; season with salt and pepper ; place them in a 
sauce-pan, into which you have put two tablespoonfuls of oil; 
make a stuffing, such as has been described for mushrooms 
(p. 147) ; fill the hollowed-out tomatoes up to three-eighths of 
an inch above their edges ; powder with bread-crumbs ; put 
upon a very quick fire for eight minutes, fire above and be- 
low. (Fr.) 

Browned Tomatoes. — Split open six tomatoes in the di- 
rection of their thickness, spread butter or oil over the bottom 
of a dish; add salt, pepper, fine herbs, the crumbled inner 
part of bread; place the half tomatoes on this layer; powder 
with bread-crumbs, salt and pepper ; sprinkle with melted but- 
ter or oil; put into tha oven, or into a Dutch oven, fire above 
and below; cook an hour. (Fr.) 

Pickled Tomatoes, a side-dish. — Cut in thin round slices 
three tomatoes and an onion ; season with salt, pepper, oil and 
vinegar. This side-dish can replace gherkins. (Fr.) 

Mashed Tomatoes, a winter preserve. — Pick some very 
fine tomatoes. Cut them in pieces, and let them cook with a 
small fire. Pass them through the strainer; put them on the 
fire again, until all the water has evaporated, and the mash 
has come to the state of a thick marmalade. Turn it into pre- 
serve-jars, let it cool, cover it with butter or melted paraffine, 
and that, when it has cooled, with paper ; and shut them up in 
a cool dry place. Instead of putting the tomato-mash into 



214 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

preserve-jars and covering it with butter, or paraffine, the fol- 
lowing method may be followed: Cook and reduce to a mash 
in the way above indicated; put the mash into rather wide- 
mouthed small bottles; cork, and tie strongly; lay the bottles 
in a kettle intermingled with hay, so that they will not break 
during the boiling; into the kettle put water enough to cover 
the bottles completely; boil ten minutes. Take the kettle from 
the fire; but do not take the bottles from the kettle, until the 
water is fully cold, lest they should break at contact with the 
air. When they have been taken from the water, let them 
dry two or three days ; cover the stoppers with wax, and shut 
the bottles in a dry, cool place. Tomato-mash preserved by 
either of the above methods may be kept a long time; it is 
used like the mash from fresh tomatoes. If it makes too thick 
a sauce, add a little water, or broth. (Fr.) 

Tomato Soup. — Mix four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
with a quart of cold water, and put them into a stew-pan with 
a quart of peeled and fine-cut tomatoes, a whole onion, a table- 
spoonful of sugar, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper. Stir often, until the soup boils, and from 
that time, cook for half an hour. Then beat together two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of flour until 
they are light and smooth ; and stir them into the soup. Cook 
ten minutes longer; then take out the onion, and serve up the 
soup with toasted or fried bread. If a smooth soup is desired, 
strain it through a fine sieve. This is the simplest kind of 
tomato soup. It may be varied by adding rice, macaroni, 
beans, peas and other vegetables. Instead of the fried bread, 
stale bread may be cut in small pieces, and put in the bottom 
of the soup-tureen. (Parloa.) 

Tomato Sauce. — Cook a pint of peeled and cut tomatoes ; 
then rub them through a strainer. In a sauce-pan, beat smooth 
and light a tablespoonful of flour and a large tablespoonful 
of butter (or two of oil). Into it, gradually beat the hot 
tomato; add salt and pepper, and cook ten minutes. This 
sauce goes well with macaroni, rice and the like. The flavor 
may be modified by adding onion, spice or herbs. (Parloa.) 

French Tomato Sauce. — Cut in pieces seven or eight 
tomatoes, and cook them over a not too lively fire, strain them 
through a fine strainer. Slightly brown some butter half as 
large as an egg; add to it the strained tomatoes, some salt 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 215 

and pepper, simmer five minutes, stirring from time to time. 
If the sauce be too thin, thicken with a little arrowroot or flour 
(p. 84). If the sauce made in the same way from canned 
tomatoes be too thick, thin it with a little water or broth. (Fr.) 

Tomato Catchup. — Boil a peck of tomatoes, and strain 
them through a strainer ; add to the liquid four tablespoonfuls 
of salt, one of pounded mace, one of powdered cloves, two of 
ground mustard, and half a tablespoonful of black pepper, 
and a tablespoonful of celery-seed (tied in a muslin rag). 
Mix all and boil five or six hours, stirring frequently, and the 
last hour constantly. Let it cool in a stone jar, take out the 
celery-seed ; add a pint of vinegar ; bottle it, and keep it in a 
dark, cool place. (Beecher.) 

Another Way. — To every gallon of juice strained from 
selected, not over-ripe, peeled tomatoes add three table- 
spoonfuls of salt, three of ground black pepper, three of mus- 
tard, one teaspoonful of ground allspice; mix the spice in a 
part of the tomato- juice, and strain them through a sieve; add 
the expressed juice of one quart of horseradish. Into a small 
hag put four large pods of sweet peppers, and, if relished, one 
onion, and with them boil the catchup down to a proper con- 
sistency to pour from the bottles without difficulty ; leave the 
catchup in the bottles, with a piece of cotton cloth tied loosely 
on the neck, for three months to ripen ; then cover and seal 
tightly. (Haskell.) 

OKRA. 

The dry composition of okra (disregarding the water) is 
excellent, nearly identical with that of the mean diet of all 
mankind, or the model diet. 

But the taste for okra is said to be acquired by habit, 
since few relish it at first trial. (The same might have been 
said of tomatoes sixty years ago.) The French use it more 
than Americans ; although Southerners use it to thicken soups. 
The okra-pods should be gathered when young and tender 
enough for the head of a pin to be readily pushed through 
them. Okra is much used, not only as a thickening for soups, 
but for stewing. It may be dried, if cut in thin slices, and 
exposed to a gentle heat, or strung, and hung in the sun, like 
apples or peaches. (Haskell.) 



216 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Okra will grow in most parts of the United States, though 
more common in the South. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Okra. — The young okra-pods should be boiled in 
salted water until tender (about twenty minutes), then drained 
and heated for five minutes with cream (a scant cupful to a 
quart of okra), a tablespoonful of butter, and salt and pepper. 
Okra is also a common ingredient of soups. (Parloa.) 

Stewed Okra. — Chop fine two quarts of okra-pods, stew 
them in a very little water, until cooked through; season with 
butter, pepper and salt. (Haskell.) 

Okra with Dutch Sauce. — Boil the young pods in enough 
salted water to cover them, until tender. Drain thoroughly, 
and when dished, pour over them a sauce of three or four 
spoonfuls of melted (not drawn) butter, a tablespoonful of 
vinegar, some pepper and salt. Heat the sauce to boiling 
before covering the okra with it. Okra is also used chopped 
up, in soups, and is pickled. (Harland.) 

Tomato and Okra Soup. — Put a pint of sliced okra, a 
pint and a half of pared and finely cut tomatoes, two quarts 
of water, three tablespoonfuls of rice, three tablespoonfuls of 
minced onion, a green pepper deprived of seeds and cut fine, 
three teaspoonfuls of salt, and a quarter-teaspoonful of pep- 
per into the soup-pot; and cook gently for two hours; then 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter (or four of oil), and serve 
up. (Parloa.) 

ARTICHOKE. 

The large flower bud of the Cynara scolymus is known as 
the globe, or French artichoke. The buds must be used be- 
fore they are open. The edible portion is the thickened lower 
part of the leaf-like scales, and the receptacle, or bottom, to 
which the scales are attached. The central part of the bud 
is called the choke, and must always be removed. When very 
young and tender, the edible parts may be eaten raw as a 
salad. When the artichoke is hard, as it soon becomes, it must 
be cooked. When boiled, it may be eaten as a salad, or with 
a sauce. The scales are pulled with the fingers from the 
cooked head, the base of each leaf dipped in the sauce, and 
then eaten. The bottoms, which many consider the most 
delicate part, may be cut up and eaten as a salad, or they 
may be stewed, and served up with a sauce. (Parloa.) 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 



217 



The season for artichokes is in May and in October. Take, 
by preference artichokes with oval, somewhat long leaves rather 
than the Breton artichokes, more compact, rounder, somewhat 
flat-shaped, and much less delicate. Choose artichokes that 
are very green, very fresh, and without prickers at the top 
of the leaves; since these would be hard and stringy. The 
large artichokes are eaten cooked, the small ones with salt 
only, or with oil and vinegar. (Fr.) 

Preparing Artichokes. — Remove all the hard outer 
leaves, cut off the stem close to the leaves. Cut off the top 
of the bud. Drop the artichokes into boiling water, and cook 
until tender, thirty to fifty minutes ; then take them up, and 
remove the choke. Serve them up, either hot or cold, with a 
dish of French salad dressing. Melted butter also makes a 
delicious sauce for hot artichokes. (Parloa.) 

Artichokes with White Sauce. — One medium-size arti- 
choke for two persons. Cut off the stem, and remove some 
of the leaves next to it ; cut off the end of the others ; clean 
from animals and insects, and wash in cold water. Boil in 
a sauce-pan or kettle, with a handful of salt, enough water 
to cover the artichokes entirely. When the water boils with 
great bubbles, put the artichokes in, bottom downwards; cook 
without covering up. To make sure that the cooking is com- 
plete, pull off a leaf; if it is easily detached, they are done; 
it needs about half an hour of cooking. Take them from the 
water, drain them well; remove Lhe choke; and serve up, with 
Parisian or Norman white sauce in a sauce-boat. Left-over 
artichokes can be eaten with oil and vinegar at a subsequent 
meal, or their bottoms can be put into stews, or fried. (Fr.) 

Artichokes with Brown-butter Sauce. — Take off the 
stem, cut off the end of the leaves, cut the artichokes in halves 
or quarters, remove the choke ; throw into boiling water, and 
boil four or five minutes. For three artichokes, put into a 
sauce-pan some butter as large as an egg, and a spoonful of 
flour; stir over a quick fire, until the butter and flour are of a 
fine chestnut color; moisten with a cupful of water, or of 
broth; add one or two onions, a flavor-posy, salt, pepper, one 
or two spoonfuls of brandy. Put into them the artichokes pre- 
pared as just described; cook with a gentle fire, with the 
sauce-pan covered, a half hour or three-quarters. To serve 
up, arrange the artichokes in a circle on a dish; take away 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



the onions and posy; put the sauce in the midst of the arti- 
chokes. (Fr.) 

Fried Artichokes. — Cut off the stems, remove all the 
green of the leaves, consequently the outer leaves almost com- 
pletely; cut off the point of the white leaves; cut in quarters, 
eighths or sixteenths, according to the size of the artichokes ; 
remove the choke. Cook in boiling water with a little salt. 
Let them drain well. Dip each into batter for frying; fry 
with very hot butter or oil, drain, pile up in pyramid-shape, 
powder with fine salt, and serve up. The bottoms of the arti- 
chokes, after cooking in water, may also be fried in this 
way. (Fr.) 

Artichokes with Pepper Sauce. — It is principally the 
small artichokes that are eaten with pepper-sauce ; but medium- 
size ones, too, can be eaten so. Cut off the stems and the first 
leaves, and the end of the others ; wash in cold water, and 
present them upon a napkin or on a side-dish shell. At the 
same time, pass to each guest the oil cruet, the salt and the 
pepper, so that each one may make the dressing according to 
his own taste. Very small artichokes can be eaten merely 
with a little salt. (Fr.) 

Keeping Artichokes. — Choose fine artichokes; cut them 
in quarters, and take away the choke and the green of the 
leaves ; as you do so, put them into water to which you have 
added a little vinegar, to hinder their turning black. When 
they are prepared, throw them into boiling water, and let them 
half cook, but not in an iron kettle, which would blacken them. 
Take them out, and drain them on cloths. Then, run a string 
through them, and make festoons of them, and hang them in 
a dry place, but not in the sun. In stringing them, do not let 
them touch one another. They should be washed, and their 
cooking is finished along with the dish they accompany. (Fr.) 

PEPPERS. 

The sweet green pepper deserves to be better known as a 
vegetable. Sliced it makes a very fine salad alone, or, more 
commonly, mixed with other salad plants like lettuce. Stuffed 
and baked peppers are very palatable. (Parloa.) 

Green Peppers Stuffed and Baked. — Use only tender, 
sweet peppers. For six medium-size peppers make the fol- 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 219 

lowing dressing: Soak in cold water enough stale bread to 
make one pint when the water is pressed out. Season it with 
two tablespoonfuls of salt, one tablespoonful of fine-herbs, 
about one-fifth of a teaspoonful each of sweet-basil and sum- 
mer savory, and two tablespoonfuls of butter (or four of oil). 
Cut off the stem end of the peppers; remove all the interior, 
particularly the seeds; fill it with the dressing; and place the 
peppers on end in a shallow baking-dish. Prepare the fol- 
lowing sauce: To a tablespoonful of butter heated in a sauce- 
pan (or two spoonfuls of oil) add a level tablespoonful of 
fiour ; stir until they are smooth and brown ; then gradually 
add three gills of stock, or water, and season with a level 
teaspoonful of salt ; cook five minutes ; then pour the sauce 
around the peppers. Put the dish in a moderately hot oven, 
and bake one hour, basting often with the sauce in the dish. 
(Parloa.) 

Pickled Peppers. — Open large sweet green peppers; fill 
them with a few cloves, cinnamon, ginger-root, a little mus- 
tard, some bits of horse-radish (scraped and split in fine 
strips), nasturtium seeds, small button-onions (shallots) 
peeled, radish pods, young beans, green grapes, cucumbers no 
larger than the little finger, minute melons, young gherkins, 
small tomatoes, young martenias and white mustard; and cover 
with boiling vinegar. When removing the seeds, have a basin 
of milk near, in which to dip your hands, or the peppers will 
cause intense suffering. (Haskell.) 

Another Way. — Fill tomato-shaped, or any other peppers, 
with piccalilli, or cabbage and celery chopped together and 
seasoned with mustard-seeds ; sew them firmly, and cover with 
hot vinegar. (Haskell.) 

To Make Cayenne Pepper. — Dry ripe chillies a whole 
day before the fire, turning them often. When they are quite 
dry, trim off the stalks, and pound the pods in a mortar to a 
fine powder, mixing in about one-sixth of their weight in salt. 
Or you may grind them in a very fine mill. While pound- 
ing the chillies, wear glasses to protect your eyes. Put the 
powder into small bottles, and secure the corks closely. 
(Leslie.) 

Pickled Cayenne Peppers. — Pick the small peppers; 
prick them, and put them in ten per cent, vinegar. (Haskell.) 



220 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Chilli- Vinegar. — Cut a hundred red chillies, or capsicums 
or cayenne peppers, freshly gathered, into small pieces, and 
steep them for a fortnight in a quart of the best vinegar, 
shaking the bottle every day. Then strain it. (Leslie.) 

PHYSALIS, OR GROUND-CHERRY, OR HUSK- 
TOMATO. 

There are many varieties of physalis, varying in size and 
color. The common variety is a bright-yellow fruit about as 
large as a cherry. Towards fall, the fruits drop to the 
ground, and are protected for some time by their husks ; and 
may be kept a long time in a cool place. They are excellent 
for making preserves and marmalade. (Beattie.) 

MUSTARD. 

Mustard is the best of all stimulants that are employed 
to give energy to the digestive organs. It was in high favor 
with our forefathers, as shown by the records of 1512. 
(Kitchiner.) 

As a condiment, mustard has been known from ancient 
time's, but the idea of grinding the seeds in a mill and sift- 
ing the flour from the husk for table use, dates only from 
1720 and the English town of Durham. The English and 
Americans usually mix mustard with water and a little salt; 
but the French and Germans prepare it with various flavoring 
articles, and usually cook it, depriving it of much of its 
pungency. The imported French mustard is of various flavors, 
that containing tarragon being much esteemed; celery seed, 
garlic, cloves, anchovies, and other things are used. German 
mustard is mixed with vinegar in which black pepper, cinna- 
mon and other spices, and onions have been boiled, with salt 
and sugar added, the vinegar is used boiling, hence, the mus- 
tard is very mild; it improves by keeping. ("American 
Encyclopaedia.") Pure mustard mixed, as it often is, with 
wheaten or starch flour loses its unmitigated bitterness and 
sharpness of flavor, and keeps much better. (" Encyclopaedia 
Britannica.") 

Mustard in a Minute. — Mix very gradually, and rub 
together in a mortar, an ounce of flour of mustard, with three 
tablespoonfuls of milk (cream is better), half a teaspoonful 
of salt and the same of sugar; rub them well together, until 



HERBACEOUS FRUITS. 221 

quite smooth. Mustard so made is not at all bitter, and is 
therefore instantly ready for the table. (Kitchiner.) 

To Mix Mustard. — Rub out the lumps of the mustard with 
the back of a spoon; add boiling water very gradually; also a 
little salt; and beat it, till perfectly smooth. If cream or new 
milk be used instead of water, it is much milder ; a saltspoonful 
of sugar may then be added. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

French Mustard. — Mix together four ounces of the very 
best mustard powder, four saltspoonfuls of salt, a large table- 
spoonful of minced tarragon leaves ; and two cloves of garlic 
chopped fine. Pour on by degrees vinegar (tarragon vinegar 
is best) enough, probably half a pint, to dilute it to the proper 
consistency. Mix it well, with a wooden spoon. Cork it very 
closely, when done, in a wide-mouthed bottle, or in little white 
jars. It will not be fit for uce in less than two days. (Leslie.) 

Keeping Mustard. — Dissolve three ounces of salt in a 
quart of boiling water, or rr ther vinegar, and pour it hot upon 
two ounces of scraped horse-radish; closely cover the jar, and 
let it stand twenty-four hours ; strain, and mix it by degrees 
with the best of flour of mustard; beat well together, until 
quite smooth and of the proper thickness ; put it into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, and stop it closely. (Kitchiner.) 



222 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



UNRIPE CEREALS. 

GREEN CORN. 

Green corn is easily spoiled by over-cooking; the longer 
the cooking, the less decided the delicate corn flavor. The 
most satisfactory way to serve up green corn is on the cob. 
(Parloa.) 

The corn should be sweet and green, and gathered quite 
young, before it begins to glaze; and should be cooked soon, 
as it loses flavor by long keeping, wilting and drying. 
(Haskell.) 

Boiled Green Corn, Four Ways. — After husking and 
silking, throw the corn into boiling water for about fifteen 
minutes, five for the cooling of the water, and ten for boiling 
the corn. It should boil only long enough to cook through; 
every minute after that only hardens it, and lessens its sweet- 
ness. 

Or: Cut the corn from the cob; have just enough water 
ready to cover the corn; throw in the cobs, and let them boil 
until fifteen minutes before the time to serve up the corn; 
then take out the cobs, and stir in the cut corn; in about five 
minutes it will be boiling ; boil ten minutes ; add butter ; salt 
and pepper, if you like. 

Or: When the corn is in that way ready to dish, stir into 
a quart of it a pint of rich sweet cream, not old enough to 
curdle; add a little salt, but no pepper. 

Or: Cook cut corn in its own juice slowly for fear of burn- 
ing, in a double boiler covered tight; say, half an hour. This 
is better than the other ways, but takes more time, season 
with fresh butter, or with cream and salt. (Haskell.) 

Boiled Corn on the Cob. — Drop the corn freed from 
husks and silk into abundant water boiling hard in a kettle, 
and cook ten minutes. If only a few ears have lowered the 
temperature but little, eight minutes may be enough. (Parloa.) 

Corn Cut from the Cob. — Cook the ears five minutes in 
boiling water, to set the juice. Then with a sharp knife cut 
lengthwise and centrally through each row of grains, and with 
the back of a case-knife press the grains from the hulls. Put 
the corn in a sauce-pan, and season with salt, pepper and but- 
ter. Add enough hot milk (or terralac), to moisten well, and 



GREEN CORN. 223 

cook ten minutes. Serve up at once. The raw corn may be cut 
from the cob, and heated in the same way. (Parloa.) 

Green Corn Cakes. — Grate the corn; make a rich batter 
with cream, as for batter cakes. Use just enough batter to 
hold the corn together ; fry on a griddle ; serve up with butter. 
(Haskell.) 

Corn Muffins. — Prepare as above described; put the corn 
with batter into muffin-rings, and bake in the oven; serve up 
with butter. (Haskell.) 

Corn Oysters. — To every pint of grated corn add three 
well beaten eggs and flour enough to make the corn hold 
together in the shape of fried oysters. Season with pepper 
and salt. If they are not quite flat, they will not be thor- 
oughly cooked. (Haskell.) 

Succotash. — Old beans, if used, must be soaked over 
night, and par-boiled in two waters, skimming out the beans 
on the first boiling, and ten minutes after the second boiling. 
Beans not fully ripe need the par-boiling in but one water. 
Then in renewed water, boil them tender. In this boiling, 
the cobs from which the corn was cut should also be boiled. 
The beans should boil gently, so as to keep whole ; the water 
should be enough not to need more when, after removing the 
cobs, the cut corn is added at fifteen minutes before serving 
up. Dish the corn and beans in a deep dish with the broth, 
which many prefer to have abundant ; season with butter and 
very little salt, and no pepper, which can be added later by 
those who desire. (Haskell.) 

Another Way. — To a pint of corn cut from the cob and 
cooked in the way above described, add a pint of cooked and 
seasoned shelled beans. (Parloa.) 



224 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

GOURDS. 

CUCUMBER. 

Cooking Cucumbers. — Although the cucumber is much 
oftener eaten in America as a salad than cooked, yet it is a 
very palatable vegetable when stewed and served up with a 
white sauce, or seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, and 
served up on toast. Before serving up in either of these ways, 
the pared and quartered cucumber should be cooked until 
tender in boiling salted water (about fifteen minutes). Cucum- 
bers may also be cut in slices lengthwise and fried like egg- 
plant or summer squash. (Parloa.) 

Preliminary Cooking. — Choose cucumbers that are very 
fresh and firm. Peel them, and cut them in quarters, in pieces 
as long as your finger, and take out the seeds; throw into 
boiling water with some salt and half a cupful of vinegar. 
At the end of five or six minutes of cooking, drain in a 
strainer, and upon a white cloth; for this vegetable cannot 
be too thoroughly drained. Then prepare them in landlord's 
fashion, with pullet or bechamel sauce, or fried. (Fr.) 

In Landlord's Fashion. — Into a sauce-pan put some but- 
ter treated with chopped parsley, scallion, salt and pepper; 
stew the cucumbers therein, after the preliminary cooking, 
and serve them up warm. (Fr.) 

With Pullet Sauce. — Make a pullet sauce (p. 121), put 
the cucumbers, after the preliminary cooking, into it, and 
thicken with two yolks of eggs (p. 117). (Fr.) 

With Bechamel Sauce. — After the preliminary cooking, 
finish the cooking in broth, and serve up in a bechamel sauce, 
(p. 121). (Fr.) 

Stewed Cucumbers. — Stew pared cucumbers, cut in quar- 
ters, or in thick slices, for fifteen minutes in a sauce-pan with 
a little water and a minced shallot, or a small minced onion. 
Pour off the water ; stir in a little flour, butter, and salt ; heat 
for two or three minutes, and then serve up. (Parloa.) 

Fried Cucumbers. — Boil pared and quartered cucumbers 
for three minutes only. Then drain them, and season with 
salt and pepper. Roll them in flour, and cook them in a 
sauce-pan with butter for twenty minutes. This dish may 



GOURDS. 225 

be varied by adding minced parsley, chives, and chervil about 
five minutes before the cooking is finished. (Parloa.) 

French Fried Cucumbers. — Cut the cucumbers in slices 
lengthwise, wipe them, flour them, and fry them. Also you 
can put them in batter (p. 312), like salsify. (Fr.) 

Cucumber Salad. — Cucumbers should always be crisp and 
fresh, when used. Some believe them to be more wholesome, 
if the slices have been soaked in cold water, or salted water. 
Doubtless the distress sometimes felt is caused by insufficiently 
masticating them. But they are probably wholesome enough; 
for in some countries, particularly Persia, they are much 
eaten and highly esteemed. The cucumber is so succulent as 
often to be used by travellers for quenching thirst where water 
is of poor quality. Cucumbers should be pared and sliced 
thin, and then may be dressed with oil and vinegar, like let- 
tuce; or with a little vinegar, salt and pepper. They are best 
when fairly young, and should not be eaten, after the seeds 
have become hard and tough. For a pleasant variation in 
appearance, rather small cucumbers may be sliced lengthwise, 
instead of across. (Parloa.) 

French Cucumber Salad, a side dish. — Cut in thin round 
slices, powder them with fine salt; let the water be drawn out; 
drain them, and season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. 
If you like onions, you can mix with the cucumbers some very 
thin round slices. (Fr.) 

Cucumber Pie. — One cucumber; two ounces of onion; and 
butter (or palatable oil). Pare and cut a large cucumber 
in pieces; take out the seeds, salt it well, and drain it in a 
coarse sieve two hours; season with pepper, and add a little 
more salt, if required; add the onion, cut small, and a little 
butter (or oil) ; cover with paste, and bake in a moderately 
hot oven. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Pickled Gherkins. — Choose small very fresh, very firm 
and very green cucumbers. There is a very simple and very 
good method, which has the only defect of not keeping the 
gherkins of a fine green color. Rub them in a cloth with a 
little salt; leave them in a pan until the next day, and then 
drain them well; put them into an earthenware or glass jar, 
and cover them with strong vinegar; after some days, add 



226 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

tarragon, garlic, allspice, small onions, peppercorns. Cover 
up, and keep in a dry cool place. (Fr.) 

Another Method, which has the advantage of keeping 
them very green. — Take a hundred little cucumbers, brush 
them, cut off the end of the stem, put them into an earthen jar 
with two handfuls of salt; turn them over, so that they may 
become impregnated with salt; drain them of the water they 
have exuded; pour upon them boiling vinegar enough to cover 
them. Cover the jar, and let them soak for 24 hours, and 
they will have taken a yellow color ; take out the vinegar from 
them, and boil it on a very hot fire in a brass or copper 
kettle that is not tinned; throw the gherkins into it, and at 
the moment when they begin to boil, stir them equally; they 
will become green again; four minutes of boiling is enough. 
Put them into the jars where they are to be kept, and cover 
them with seasoning, such as tarragon, allspice, small onions, 
garlic; fill the jars with vinegar enough to cover all; close 
the jars with care; they will be good in a week. (Fr.) 

PUMPKIN AND SQUASH. 

Thudicum says that the crook-necked summer-squash, now 
sometimes called vegetable marrow, was until about 1830 
called simply gourd. 

The several varieties of the summer-squash (crook-neck, 
or gourds, or vegetable marrow; and turban shaped, or cym- 
lin) are generally cooked when so small and tender that the 
thumb-nail can easily pierce the rind. (Parloa.) 

The yellower the pulp of the winter-squash, the bet- 
ter. (Fr.) 

Pumpkins and squashes should be handled carefully to 
avoid bruising, and should be stored in a moderately warm 
but well ventilated room. (Beattie.) 

Cooking Summer Squash. — Wash the squash cut into 
small pieces, and either cook in boiling water half an hour, 
or steam it about an hour. Then mash it fine, and season 
with salt, pepper and butter. It is a delicate-flavored but 
rather watery dish. Summer-squash is also very palatable 
when cut in slices and fried, like eggplant. Many claim that 
very young summer-squashes, particularly the turban-shaped 
cymlin not much larger than a silver dollar, are very palatable 



GOURDS. 227 

when cooked whole; but crook-necked and other summer 
squashes seem to be richer in flavor when large. From the 
more mature squash remove the thin skin and seeds ; cut in 
small pieces ; put into a stew-pan with boiling water enough 
to cover; boil for half an hour, drain, mash, and season with 
salt, pepper, and butter. Cook winter-squash in the same 
way. Squash needs a good deal of butter. (Parloa.) 

Stewed Vegetable Marrow. — Peel several gourds, and 
stew them gently, until quite tender, in a stew-pan with water, 
salt, lemon juice and a bit of butter, serve them up with a 
rich Dutch, or any other piquant sauce. (Kitchiner.) 

Mashed Pumpkin, or Winter-Squash. — For six persons, 
about a pound of squash. Remove the seeds and the peel; 
cut in pieces; put into a sauce-pan with a cupful of water; 
cook an hour and a half witli a fire not too lively, lest it burn; 
pass it through the strainer; in a sauce-pan slightly brown 
a piece of butter as large as an egg; in it brown a small onion 
chopped fine ; add the mashed squash ; season with salt and 
pepper; simmer with a small fire a quarter of an hour; thicken 
with two yolks of eggs, or one yolk and a spoonful of cream 
(p. 118), and served up in the midst of fried bits of 
bread. (Fr.) 

Pumpkin, or Winter-Squash, Marmalade, a preserve. — 
Remove the seeds and peel of a pumpkin or winter-squash; 
cut in pieces; put over the fire with a little water (very little, 
only enough to keep from sticking to the bottom of the pan) 
and a quarter of a pound of sugar for half a pound of squash, 
and some orange or lemon zest; the zest of one orange or 
lemon to a pound of squash. Cook with a not too lively fire 
for an hour and a half, stirring it very often, five minutes 
before the cooking is complete, add the juice of the orange 
or lemon. Put into jars; let them cool; close them and keep 
them in a dry cool place. (Fr.) 

Pumpkin, or Squash Pie. — Select a fine, sweet pumpkin 
(or winter-squash), stew it slowly, until it is reduced to paste 
with no standing juice. Pass it through a strainer, and thin 
it to the consistency of batter; add to a six-quart pan of it a 
teaspoonful of salt, and sugar to suit the taste, ginger, and, 
if relished, nutmeg. If pumpkins are plenty, use no eggs; 
if not, three may be used to the six quart pan, and with milk 



228 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

(or terralac) added; a little thin cream is a good addition. 
Cover a plate, to the edge with paste (p. 319) ; pack it to the 
rim of the plate, and prick it two or three times with a needle 
or pin; then bake the crust; and, while it is baking, make 
a roll of the paste as thick as your little finger and long 
enough to reach around the edge of the plate; pinch it, or 
leave it round, as you prefer; fill the paste, or shell, with 
the pumpkin, and bake it in a hot oven, without burning, or 
blistering. In filling the shell, do not drop any of the pump- 
kin on the edge. (Haskell.) 

Another Pumpkin, or Squash Pie. — Remove the rind 
and seeds of a pumpkin, or winter-squash; cut it in pieces, 
and boil it until tender; then rub it through a sieve. Add 
to it, when cold, milk (or terralac) to thin it, and to each 
quart of milk five well beaten eggs ; and sugar, cinnamon and 
ginger, to your taste. The quantity of milk depends on the 
size and quality of the pumpkin or squash. Bake with 
moderate heat, until the centre is firm. (Beecher.) Squash, 
being less rich than pumpkin, needs about one eighth more 
egg. (Harland.) Pumpkin pies so-called, outside of New 
England, are commonly made, in reality, with squash. The 
name chosen (with the hope that a better name will give a 
sweeter taste) clearly indicates that pumpkin is the superior 
material; as, indeed, it is considered in New England. Some 
claim that squash has a more delicate flavor; but it has less 
body than pumpkin, and, as Harland says, is " less rich," 
and it is not so fit a receptacle of flavoring spices. In fact, 
squash compared with pumpkin, is " as moonlight unto sun- 
light, or as water unto wine." 

Pumpkin or Squash Soup. — Take about two pounds of 
pumpkin, or winter-squash; remove the seeds and the rind 
to the depth of half an inch, and cut into square bits; put 
them into a sauce-pan with a cupful of water. Cook for an 
hour and a half with a fire that is not too lively, for fear 
they will burn; pass them through a strainer; put them in 
the sauce-pan again with a quart of milk (that you have 
taken pains to boil beforehand, so that it will not turn sour), 
or with terralac, a piece of butter as large as an egg, a small 
lump of sugar, salt and pepper and some slices of bread; 
set over the fire; stir from time to time; and at the first boil 
pour into the soup tureen. A similar soup may be made of 
melon that is too bad to eat. (Fr.) 



ROOTS. 
CELERIAC. 

Celeriac, also called knot celery and turnip celery and 
German celery, is a kind of celery, with a root that is about 
as large as a white turnip, and that is eaten instead of the 
leaf-stems; but more often as a vegetable than as a salad. 
(Parloa.) 

Celeriac is prepared in all the ways indicated for com- 
mon celery, and is eaten as a salad, or cooked and browned; 
only instead of being separated into sprigs, it is cut into thin 
slices. (Fr.) 

Celeriac Mash. — Cook a quart of celeriac cut in dice 
thirty minutes in boiling water, rinse it in cold water; then 
pass through a fine strainer. Put two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter into a saucepan; when it is hot, over the tire, add a table- 
spoonful of flour, and stir, until it is smooth and frothy, and 
then add the strained celeriac, and cook five minutes stirring 
often. Add a teaspoonful of salt and a gill of cream, or 
broth, and cook five minutes longer. If the mash seems dry, 
add more cream, or broth. The vegetable varies as to the 
amount of moisture it requires. It should be eaten very hot. 
It may be served up on toast, or fried bread. (Parloa.) 

Cream of Celeriac Soup. — Follow the directions for 
celeriac mash just given, gradually adding a quart of hot 
white broth; rub through a fine sieve, return the soup to the 
fire, and add a cupful of boiled green peas, and a cupful of 
cream. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and add a cupful of cold 
cream to them; then stir the mixture into the soup. Draw 
back from the fire and beat with a whisk for a minute; then 
serve up at once. (Parloa.) 

RADISH. 

There are different varieties of radish: rose, white, gray, 
black. The preferable ones for a ceremonious dinner are the 
little rose radishes. They should be of a fine rose color, small 
and not hollow. The hollow radish is big and of a deep red 
color. Radishes are cleansed by removing the rootlets, and 
leaving two or three of the shortest leaves. The radishes 
are placed in order on side-dish shells with a little fresh water, 



230 VKGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

but very little, so as not to be sprinkled over the table. The 
radishes may be cut in such a way as to look like flowers; 
but when so cut are gastronomically much less delicate. The 
black radish, much more pungent than the little rose ones, 
is liked by many. It is commonly excluded from ceremonious 
dinners, but not absolutely so. Serve it up peeled and cut 
in slices as thin as a cent; place them in a side-dish shell; 
sprinkle them with salt. (Fr.) 

HORSERADISH. 

Wash horseradish roots, scrape off the outside skin, grate 
them fine, and mix with strong vinegar, and add to one pint 
of the grated horseradish a teaspoonful of sugar. (Haskell.) 

Horseradish Vinegar. — Pour a quart of the best vinegar 
boiling hot on four ounces of scraped horseradish. Let it 
stand a week then strain it off; renew the horseradish, pour- 
ing on the same vinegar cold, and let it stand a week longer, 
straining it again at the last. (Leslie.) At the beginning of 
the steeping, add an ounce of minced shallot and one drachm 
of cayenne pepper. (Kitchiner.) 

Another Way. — Make this in the spring: to one quart of 
grated horseradish add one quart of strong vinegar; press 
the liquor out as soon as possible; bottle, cork, and seal im- 
mediately. This must be made as speedily as possible, or the 
flavor will escape before bottling; use one ounce bottles, as it 
will become tasteless, if open one day. (Haskell.) 

Horseradish Powder. — Horseradish is in highest perfec- 
tion about November; and the time to make horseradish 
powder is during November and December; slice the horse- 
radish to the thickness of a quarter dollar, and lay it to dry 
very gradually in a Dutch oven (a strong heat soon evaporates 
its flavor) ; when it is dry enough, pound it up, and boil it. 
(Kitchiner.) 

BEET. 

Wash the beets, cook them in the oven, or in water. Those 
cooked in the oven are better; they are sweeter, and have 
more flavor. The oven should not be too hot; and when they 
are large, they need six or seven hours of baking. (Fr.) 

Beets may be had all through the summer, and also be 
stored well for winter use. Sometimes beets are cut in small 



ROOTS. 231 

pieces, after boiling, and are served up with white sauce; but 
the commonest and most palatable way is to serve them up 
with butter. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Beet-Root. — Wash and brush the roots, being 
careful to avoid breaking off the fibres, to prevent the juice 
from escaping and spoiling the appearance and flavor; put 
them into a pan of boiling water, adding salt and a small 
piece of soda ; let them boil from one to two hours, according 
to size; put them into cold water, and rub off the skin with 
the hand ; cut them in slices ; lay them neatly on a dish and 
serve up with either vinegar or mustard sauce. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Baked Beet-Root. — Wash the roots perfectly clean; bake 
them whole, till tender; put them in cold water; rub off the 
skin with the hand; if they are large, cut them into thin round 
slices; but if they are small, slice them lengthwise; place 
them on a flat dish ; garnish with parsley, and serve up with 
mustard sauce. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Fried Beet-Root. — Prepare the beets as for Baked Beet- 
root; season with pepper and salt; fry the slices in butter (or 
palatable oil) ; place on a flat dish; and garnish with parsley. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Beets with Butter. — Wash the beets, with care not to 
break the skin. Put them into a stew-pan with abundant 
boiling water, and boil them tender. Young beets will cook 
in an hour ; older ones need more time ; and in winter they 
become so hard as to take four hours, or more, of steady boil- 
ing to become soft, and are then only suitable for pickling 
in vinegar, after thorough boiling. Take the young beets, 
when they are cooked, from the boiling water, and drop them 
into cold water. Rub off the skin. Cut them in thin slices, 
and season with salt and butter. Serve up at once. (Parloa.) 

Beets for Salad. — Cook the beets in the oven or in water ; 
peel them; cut them in round slices a sixteenth of an inch 
thick, the thickness of a quarter of a dollar; pickle them 
in vinegar, with salt and pepper; place them around the salad 
that you wish to garnish and adorn. In case the beet-slices 
should not have been pickled, the salad dressing should have 
a little more vinegar. (Fr.) 



232 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Beets in Country Fashion. — Cook the beets in the oven 
or in water; peel them, cut them in round slices as thick as 
a quarter of a dollar, and treat them in the same way as car- 
rots in country fashion (p. 248). (Fr.) 

ONION. 

Onions should be gathered from the soil after the tops 
are practically dead, and should be spread in a dry well 
ventilated place, to cure; and afterwards may be stored in 
crates or bags for winter use. There are several kinds that 
may stay in the soil all winter. The multiplier, or potato, 
onion contains, if large, a number of distinct hearts, and, if 
planted will produce a number of small onions; but if small, 
will produce a large onion. There is also the top, or tree 
onion, with a number of bulblets above ground, on the top of 
a stem. The small onion called shallot has small bulbs, or 
cloves, which are used in the same way as common onions; 
and its leaves are also used for flavoring. There is more- 
over, the cibol, or Welsh onion, grown either from seeds or 
bulbs. If the seed be sown in the autumn, the leaves will in 
the spring be ready to use for flavoring soups. (Beattie.) 

The onion is the most useful of all our flavorers, and 
there is hardly a soup, stew, sauce, or the like, that is not 
improved by adding the onion flavor. Also, by itself, it may 
be prepared in several ways. The white onions are the most 
delicate, and therefore better, by themselves, than the yel- 
low or red kind. The large Spanish onions and the Bermuda 
onions are likewise delicate and suitable for separate cook- 
ing. If the stronger onions are so cooked, they must be thor- 
oughly kitchen-blanched. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Onions in White Sauce. — Cut off the rootlets, 
and peel the onions, dropping them into cold water as soon 
as peeled. Drain them from the cold water, and put them 
into a stew-pan with boiling water enough amply to cover 
them. Add a teaspoonful of salt for each quart of water. 
Boil rapidly for ten minutes with the cover partly off. Drain 
off the water, and cover the onions with hot sweet milk (or 
terralac), a pint for a quart of onions. Simmer half an hour. 
Beat together a tablespoonful of butter and a level table- 
spoonful of flour. Add a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter 
teaspoonful of white pepper. Gradually beat in about half 



roots. 233 

a cupful of the milk in which the onions are cooking. When 
the mixture is smooth, stir it into the onions and milk. Let 
the dish cook ten minutes longer, and serve it up. (Parloa.) 

Fried Onions. — Peel some large onions ; cut them in 
slices; season with salt and pepper, and fry them in butter 
(or palatable oil), till nicely browned. ("Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

English Stewed Onions. — Peel and slice the onions; put 
them into a dish with some butter (or palatable oil), 
previously browned; set them in a moderately hot oven, and 
when they are nicely browned, pour over them some rather 
thin butter sauce; season with pepper and salt, and let them 
stew a quarter of an hour longer. If the onions are strong, 
they should be boiled about five or six minutes before they 
are stewed. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Stewed Onions. — Cut the onions in slices, and boil them 
in salted water for ten minutes. Drain them well, and return 
them to the stew-pan. For three pints of onion, measured 
before boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper. Cover 
the stew-pan, and cook over a hot fire for five minutes, shak- 
ing the pan to prevent the onion from burning. Set the stew- 
pan back, where the cooking will go on slowly for forty 
minutes. (Parloa.) 

Glazed Onions for a Garnish. — Choose onions of about 
equal size; cut off the head and tail. Boil in water five 
minutes ; cool in cold water. Take off the yellow peel and the 
first white layer; take out some of the middle part of the 
onion, and put in powdered sugar. Place the onions on a 
buttered dish. Brown them with a rather quick fire; turn 
the onions, so as to color them equally on the other side; 
when they are colored, add water or broth enough to cover 
them; boil down completely with a big fire, moistening the 
onions frequently. You must arrange to finish this cooking 
without taking too much time, for the onions would get 
mashed. (Fr.) 

Pickled Onions, a side dish. — Preferably take small 
onions, no larger than the end of your thumb; clean them, 
taking care not to injure them; remove the stem, or leaves, 
and the rootlets; put into an earthen jar, or into a bottle, or 



234 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

a small glass jar, with enough very strong vinegar to cover 
them completely; add one or two cloves of garlic, tarragon, 
one or two allspice grains, peppercorns, cloves; cover up, 
and keep in a dry, cool place. (Fr.) 

Onion Soup. — For six: Three pints of water and a quar- 
ter of a pound of bread. Brown some butter as large as an 
egg (or use four tablespoonful of palatable oil) ; put into it 
two onions of medium size cut into very thin round slices; 
and let them become strongly colored. Add three pints of 
water, some salt and pepper ; let them boil one or two minutes, 
and pour into the tureen upon the bread cut in very thin 
slices ; serve it up boiling. You can grate cheese into the 
soup; it is a flavor that some like. (Fr.) 

Onion Soup with Milk is made in the way just de- 
scribed; only, you put in one half less of water, and at the 
last moment add one half of boiling milk (or terralac). (Fr.) 

Another Onion Soup. — For six persons: Put into a 
sauce-pan some butter as large as an egg, add half a spoonful 
of flour; stir over a quick fire, until the butter and flour are 
of a fine chestnut color; add two onions of medium size cut 
into thin round slices, and, when they have become colored, 
three pints of water, or a quart of water and a pint of milk 
(or terralac) ; boil four or five minutes, and pour upon a quar- 
ter of a pound of bread cut in very thin slices. You can also, 
instead of merely pouring upon the bread in serving up, let 
the soup boil one or two minutes with the bread. (Fr.) 

Onion Soup with Rice or Vermicelli. — Make the soup 
as directed for onion soup; only, instead of bread, put in rice 
or vermicelli; let it boil until the rice has burst, or until the 
vermicelli is cooked soft. If milk (or terralac) is put in, 
let it be put in boiling, and at the last moment. (Fr.) 

Onion Pie. — Onions; apples; a quarter of an ounce of 
dried sage; and two ounces of butter (or four tablespoonfuls 
of palatable oil). Cut the onions in two, boil five minutes, 
and chop them small, adding the sage; season with pepper 
and salt, and put in a pie dish, with the butter (or oil) and 
a little water. Prepare the apples as for sauce, with a little 
sugar; lay them over the onions, cover with paste, and bake 
it. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 



roots. 235 

Onion Pudding. — Half a pound of onions ; half a pound 
of bread-crumbs ; a teaspoonful of dried sage ; half a tea- 
spoonful of thyme; and two ounces of butter (or four table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil). Peel and cut the onions in two; 
boil them about ten minutes ; drain away the water, and chop 
them, but not very small ; put them to the bread, with the herbs 
and the butter, melted (or oil) ; season with pepper and salt; 
and boil it an hour and a quarter in a buttered basin. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Onion and Sage Pasty. — Three quarters of a pound of 
onions; two ounces of fresh sage; half an ounce of parsley; 
and one ounce of butter (or two tablespoonfuls of palatable 
oil). Peel and cut the onions in two; boil them ten minutes; 
drain away the water ; and chop them, adding the parsley, 
previously chopped small; season with pepper and salt; stir in 
the butter ; roll out some pie paste ; lay the herbs on one half, 
and turn the other over it; close it by pinching the edges 
together, and bake in a rather quick oven. When it is baked, 
pour in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water through a funnel, 
making a small hole in the crust; and serve up with brown 
sauce and apple sauce. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Onion Chowder. — Cook a pint of minced onion and three 
tablespoonfuls of butter together for half an hour, but slowly, 
so that the onion will not brown. Then add three quarts of 
boiling water, a quart of potatoes cut in dice, three tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; and cook 
an hour longer; then add a tablespoonful of fine herbs, and 
serve up. (Parloa.) 

Keeping Onions through the Winter. — Onions, shallot 
and garlic can be perfectly kept, if the needful precautions 
are taken. They should not be gathered before complete 
maturity, that is, not until their stems are entirely dry. On 
pulling them from the ground, expose them to the sun for 
some days to dry them; and then hang them in festoons in 
a dry loft, or spread them out on straw. (Fr.) 

Shallot Vinegar. — Peel, and chop fine four ounces of 
shallots, or small button onions. Pour on them a quart of the 
best vinegar, and let them steep a fortnight; then strain, and 
bottle it. (Leslie.) 



236 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



CHIVE. 



The chive is a small onion-like plant with flat hollow 
leaves, that are used for flavoring soup. They may be cut 
freely, and are soon replaced by others. (Beattie.) 

TURNIP. 

Turnips should be chosen quite sound, not hollow, and 
without worm-eating. For the pot-au-feu, or hotchpot, take 
preferably the common large turnips; for stews, small turnips. 
The true season for turnips is from the first of May to the 
end of February. Those who wish to lay in a stock of them 
for the winter should dig them up in October, by the end of 
that month, at latest; cut the leaves off an inch from the 
collar; place the turnips side by side on straw in a basement 
or cellar that is not damp and where it does not freeze. 
Turnips are cleansed by cutting off the leaves and a small 
part of their base, and by scraping. The scraping is done 
with a knife, holding them by one end; the stem and the 
rootlets are to be cut off, and the turnips are then to be washed 
with plenty of water. (Fr.) 

Turnips are generally spoiled by overcooking. The flat, 
white summer turnip, when sliced, will cook in thirty minutes. 
If cooked longer it grows worse, dark in color and strong 
in flavor. Winter turnips need from forty-five to sixty 
minutes. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Turnips. — Peel and slice the turnips. Drop them 
into a stew-pan with boiling water enough amply to cover 
them. Cook them tender; then drain them well. They are 
now ready to mash or chop. If they are to be mashed, put 
them back into the stew-pan, and mash them with a wooden 
vegetable masher; for metal is apt to give them an unpleasant 
taste. Season with salt, butter, and a little pepper. Serve 
up at once. (Parloa.) 

Hashed Turnips. — Chop the above-mentioned drained tur- 
nips into rather large pieces. Return them to the stew-pan ; 
and for a pint and a half of turnips, add a teaspoonful of 
salt, a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, and four tablespoonfuls of water. Cook over a very hot 
fire until all the seasonings are absorbed. Serve up at once. 
Or the pepper, butter, and a tablespoonful of flour may be 



ROOTS. 237 

added to the hashed turnips ; then the stew-pan may be placed 
over the hot fire and shaken frequently, to toss up the turnips. 
After so cooking them five minutes, add half a pint of milk (or 
terralac), and cook ten minutes. (Parloa.) 

Turnip Hash Soup. — Three quarters of a pound of tur- 
nips ; three quarters of a pound of potatoes ; two tablespoonfuls 
of flour; two ounces of butter (or four tablespoonfuls of 
palatable oil) ; one large onion ; and a tablespoonful of salt. 
Set three quarts of water in a well-tinned pan over the fire; 
put in the turnips (cut in small square pieces), and the onion 
(cut small) ; add the salt, and let boil for an hour; then put 
in the potatoes (also cut in pieces), and, after three quarters 
of an hour more of boiling, add the butter (or oil) ; rub the 
flour in half a cup of cold water, till perfectly smooth; pour 
it into the pan, and let it boil slowly a quarter of an hour 
longer, and then the liquid part of the mash will be of the 
consistency of thin butter sauce; boil it two hours, and keep 
it covered the whole time. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Turnip with White Sauce. — Scrape the turnips; remove 
the heads and tails; let the turnips cook with water and salt; 
and let them drain; serve up with Parisian or Norman white 
sauce. (Fr.) 

Turnips with Pullet Sauce. — Put into a sauce-pan a 
piece of butter and a tablespoonful of flour; when the butter 
is melted and well mixed with the flour, wet it with a cupful 
of water, add one or two onions, a flavor-posy, salt and pepper. 
Then add the turnips well-cleansed and washed and cut in 
halves ; or in quarters, if large. Let them cook with a small 
fire. Take out the posy and the onions, thicken with the yolks 
of eggs, or yolks and cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 

Turnips with Sugar. — Take small turnips; clean and 
wash. Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter, and let it brown 
slightly; then add the turnips. When they are of a fine color, 
sprinkle sugar over them ; moisten with half a cupful of water, 
or of broth; season with salt and pepper, cook with a small 
fire, with the sauce-pan covered. (Fr.) 

Mashed Turnips. — Clean the turnips by scraping them 
with a knife, and wash them ; let them cook in water seasoned 
with a little salt. When they are well cooked, take them from 
the water, let them drain, mash them, pass them through the 



238 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

strainer; mix them with butter, salt and pepper; warm them 
over the fire, while stirring them; serve up. (Fr.) Mashed 
turnips thoroughly mixed with mashed potatoes make a good 
combination. 

Flemish or Turnip Soup. — For six: Cook in three pints 
of water three or four turnips of medium size, as many 
potatoes and a piece of bread-crust, salt and pepper; mash 
and pass through the strainer; add enough water to make 
about a quart of the mash; let it simmer a quarter of an hour, 
stirring it now and then; add some chervil chopped fine and 
some butter as large as an egg; serve up as soon as the butter 
is melted. (Fr.) 

Turnip Pie. — One pound and a half of turnips; four 
ounces of onions; and one ounce of butter (or two table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil). Pare and cut the turnips; season 
with pepper and salt, and put them in a pie-dish, with the 
onions, about half boiled, and chopped, adding the butter (or 
oil) and a little water; cover with pastry, and bake it. After 
the baking, more butter (or oil) may be added. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

RUTA-BAGA. 

The culture and use of the ruta-baga are the same as for 
the turnip. (Beattie.) 

POTATO. 

There are many varieties of potato, and tastes differ about 
them. In America and England, the white, mealy varieties 
are the most prized. On the continent of Europe, the " yel- 
low Holland " potato is a favorite. The white potato, when 
light and dry, is of a delicate flavor, and is thought to digest 
easily. It is especially suitable for boiling, steaming and bak- 
ing, and for soup and mashing. The yellow potatoes are more 
suitable when it is desired that the whole potatoes, or pieces of 
them, shall retain their shape in cooking; and are best for 
salads, ragouts, hash, and the fried puffed potatoes. In gen- 
eral, the yellow potato has a richer flavor than the white. In 
spite of the common use of the potato, perhaps no other 
vegetable is so carelessly cooked, as a rule. In cooking, the 
somewhat nitrogenous juice is partly coagulated by the heat, 



roots. 239 

and the starch granules swell and burst, and the starch ab- 
sorbs the watery part of the juice; and if the moisture is in 
the right proportion, the potato acquires a light, dry, glisten- 
ing appearance, and becomes digestible. Ripe potatoes and 
those grown on a well drained or sandy soil, will generally be 
dry and mealy, if properly cooked. Potatoes grown in a wet 
season, or in a heavy damp soil, generally contain too large 
a proportion of moisture for the starch. Old potatoes that 
are allowed to sprout will be watery; probably because some 
of the starch has been withdrawn to feed the sprouts. Potatoes 
for the table should not be allowed to sprout, or to be ex- 
posed to strong light; for under such circumstances they pro- 
duce a poisonous substance called solanin. Potatoes cooked in 
dry heat, as in the oven, or in hot ashes, or in deep frying- 
fat, or, with the jackets on, in steam, retain all their com- 
ponents, and have a more decided and savory flavor than when 
cooked in water; but, when done, must be served up at once, 
or they become soggy and bad flavored. Potatoes cooked in 
the skin should be free from blemish and washed absolutely 
clean. Potatoes kept until spring or early summer are better 
for being soaked in cold water and peeled before cooking. 
(Parloa.) 

Potatoes from a culinary point of view, may be divided 
into two classes: those that may be fully cooked without be- 
coming crushed or deformed, the ones oftenest used, generally 
long, twisted, or oval ; and those that are easily crushed, there- 
fore preferable for mashing, generally more spherical. For a 
garnish, prefer the kidney-potato and the Dutch potato; they 
keep their shape. The kidney-potato is superior in taste, but 
is rather rare; it may be replaced without much harm by the 
Dutch potato, which is recognized by its long oval shape and 
its smooth skin of a pale yellow color. Potatoes should have 
no mouldy or decayed spots even on the outside; avoid, too, 
those that have a greenish tinge. The color ought to be de- 
cidedly yellowish gray, or a fine red, or a fine violet, according 
to their variety. Avoid those that have begun to sprout. 
Potatoes can be kept fresh pretty long in a cellar or base- 
ment. They should be dug in dry weather, cleaned from earth 
and roots, left exposed some hours to the sun, turned from time 
to time; piled up on a straw bed in a dry place, where they 
will not freeze; and deprived as much as possible of light; 
and should be turned over with a shovel now and then. (Fr.) 



240 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Baked Potatoes. — Select smooth, unmarred potatoes. 
Wash them perfectly clean. Put them uncrowded in an old 
baking pan kept for the purpose, and into a hot oven. Potatoes 
of medium size in a large hot oven will cook in forty minutes ; 
but if the oven be filled with cold potatoes, it will be so chilled, 
that an hour will be needed for the cooking. Baked potatoes 
should be served up as soon as done. If they must be kept 
any time after complete cooking, break them, to let the 
moisture escape. Keep them in a warm oven or covered with 
cheese cloth in a stew-pan. (Parloa.) 

Potatoes Baked in the Ashes, or in the Oven. — Choose 
fine potatoes. Put them into very hot ashes, covering up with 
live coals, and let them cook three quarters of an hour; or an 
hour; take them out, remove the dust, and serve them up in a 
napkin. They can be eaten with butter and a little salt. It 
is better to bake the potatoes in the oven ; they are cleaner, and 
some people are very fond of eating the skin. Wash them 
well, and cook them in a very hot oven. (Fr.) 

Potatoes in Their Jacket. — Wash the potatoes, cook 
them well covered with water, seasoned with a little salt; it 
takes about half an hour or three quarters; serve up, without 
peeling them, in a napkin folded in lozenge-shape, to keep 
them warm. These potatoes can be eaten with any kind of 
dish, and in England and Germany they take the place of 
bread. They can also be peeled, and brought to the table in a 
vegetable dish. (Fr.) 

Kitchiner's Boiled Potatoes. — Put to the potatoes as 
much cold water as will cover them about an inch; they are 
sooner boiled and more savory than when deeply drowned in 
water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too little 
water, but potatoes are often spoiled by too much. They must 
be merely covered, and a little allowed for waste in boiling, 
so that they may be just covered at the finish. Set them on 
a moderate fire, till they boil ; then take them off, and put them 
by the side of the fire, to simmer slowly, till they are soft 
enough to admit a fork. Place no dependence on the usual 
test of their skin's cracking; which, if they are boiled fast, 
will happen to some potatoes when they are not half done, 
and while the inside is quite hard. Then pour the water off; 
for if you let the potatoes stay in the water a moment after 
they are done through, they will become waxy and watery. 



ROOT!. 241 

Uncover the sauce-pan, and set it far enough from the fire not 
to burn. Their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and they 
will be perfectly dry and mealy. (Kitchiner.) 

French Boiled Potatoes. — Cook the potatoes in water 
with some salt; as soon as it is possible to remove the skin, 
peel them, put them over the fire again without water, with 
the kettle well covered, and let them finish cooking. These 
potatoes are eaten with butter and salt. (Fr.) 

Boiled Potatoes. — A dozen or two ordinary-size potatoes, 
whether peeled, partly peeled, or unpeeled, if put on the fire 
in a large stew-pan and amply covered with boiling water, 
and the pan covered at once, will cook properly in thirty 
minutes from the time the cover was put on. Small potatoes 
will cook two minutes quicker, and very large potatoes will 
need about thirty-five minutes. If the potatoes are to be boiled 
in their skins, wash them clean, and then with a sharp knife 
cut a narrow band of the skin around the middle of the potato, 
and cut a little bit from each end. If the potatoes are to be 
peeled, use a very sharp knife, and remove the thinnest pos- 
sible layer. The skins may be scraped off, if you prefer; and 
there are special knives for the purpose. Let the potatoes 
boil fifteen minutes, then add a tablespoonful of salt for every 
dozen potatoes. After cooking thirty minutes, drain off every 
drop of water, and let all the steam pass off. Now, you may 
serve them up; though they would even be improved by being 
kept hot for an hour or more, if well ventilated, so that they 
dry, rather than retain moisture. When boiled or steamed 
potatoes must be kept warm for any length of time, place the 
stew-pan on a tripod or iron ring on the stove, and cover the 
potatoes with one thickness of cheesecloth, to protect them 
from the cold air, and let the moisture pass off. (Parloa.) 

Steamed Potatoes. — Steamed potatoes are prepared in 
the same way as for boiling; and put into a vessel closed at 
the top, but with a perforated bottom; and the vessel is then 
put over a kettle of boiling water. The water must be kept 
boiling hard all the time. They need from thirty to forty 
minutes to cook. (Parloa.) 

Reheating Potatoes. — Cold boiled, steamed, or baked 
potatoes may all be appetizingly utilized; but they must be 
well seasoned to become savory, heated as hot as possible 



242 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

without burning, and served up very hot. The cold potatoes 
may be sliced or cut in small pieces, and seasoned with salt 
and pepper; then, heated in the frying-pan with butter. A 
little minced onion, or chives, or green pepper, or a table- 
spoonful of green herbs may be added. A tablespoonful of 
butter and a teaspoonful of flour may be stirred over the fire, 
until smooth and frothy. Add a pint of well seasoned potatoes, 
and stir with a fork for three minutes ; then add half a pint 
of milk (or terralac), and cook until they are thoroughly 
heated, taking care not to let them burn. A pint and a half 
of cold potatoes cut in cubes and seasoned with salt and pep- 
per may be heated in a pint of white sauce. (Parloa.) 

Scalloped Potatoes. — Cut in cubes a pint and a half of 
cold cooked potatoes; season them with a teaspoonful of salt 
and a quarter-teaspoonful of pepper; and mix them with a 
pint of cream sauce (or terralac sauce). Put the mixture into 
a shallow baking dish, cover with grated bread-crumbs, and 
dot the surface with butter, or sprinkle with oil. Bake half 
an hour in a moderate oven. (Parloa.) 

For a Garnish. — Choose long potatoes that do not lose 
their shape in water, and of about equal size ; peal them, wash 
them, and put them into a sauce-pan with enough water to 
cover them and with a little salt. Cook about fifteen or six- 
teen minutes ; ascertain with a pin the progress of the cook- 
ing, and if it enters easily, throw the water away, and finish 
the cooking with the steam ; that is, leave the sauce-pan over a 
gentle fire, and cover the pan with a sheet-iron cover, and put 
fire on the top. Eight or ten minutes will be enough to finish 
the cooking. If some of the potatoes cooked in water are 
left over, they can be used for a subsequent meal, either as a 
salad or mashed, or stewed, or as duchess potatoes. In the 
winter, when white salad for a mayonnaise is scarce, it may 
be replaced by boiled potatoes cut in round slices. Pour 
mayonnaise sauce on them. (Fr.) 

Lyonnese Potatoes. — Put into a large frying-pan four 
ounces of butter, or eight tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, with two 
white onions sliced fine; fry until they are softened; add (say, 
one quart) peeled and sliced small cold boiled potatoes (the 
small ones are less liable to break). Season with salt and 
pepper, and fry a light brown, stirring occasionally; drain 



roots. 243 

off the butter, strew a handful of chopped parsley over the 
potatoes, mingle well, and serve up. (Leslie.) 

Hashed Potatoes. — Peel, and hash, fine uncooked pota- 
toes. To each quart allow a piece of butter half as large as 
an egg (or two tablespoonfuls of palatable oil), half a tea- 
cupful (or half a gill) of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
a dust of pepper only, if any; it is easier to add than to take 
out; put water, butter, salt and pepper in a spider until it is 
hot; then stir in the potatoes, and let them cook slowly; so 
as not to burn; stir often, but do not mash them; sweet cream 
can be added, if desired, when they are taken from the fire; 
this is nice for breakfast. (Haskell.) Starting with cold 
boiled potatoes, and omitting the water, and letting the pota- 
toes become partly browned, you have hashed browned pota- 
toes. 

Stewed Potatoes. — Pick out potatoes that do not lose 
their shape in cooking, and are of about equal size ; peel, wash 
and Avipe them. Take a sauce-pan so large that the potatoes 
will not be one a-top of another ; put in a good piece of butter, 
so that when it is melted it will be at least as deep at the 
bottom of the pan as one-sixteenth of an inch, or the thickness 
of a quarter of a dollar (or use oil). When the butter is quite 
hot, place the potatoes in it, and sprinkle them with salt and 
pepper; turn them over every two or three minutes, so that 
they will take color equally on all sides. Towards the end, 
they may be covered, to hasten the cooking. When they bend 
under the finger, they are done. (Fr.) 

Another Way. — Select potatoes that do not crush in cook- 
ing; wash them; half cook them with water and salt; peel 
them, and cut them in round slices half as thick as your finger. 
Let some butter slightly brown in a sauce-pan; put the pota- 
toes into it; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stew over a lively 
fire, until the surface of the potatoes is of a fine golden 
color. (Fr.) 

Fried Potatoes. — Peel, wash and wipe the potatoes; cut 
them in one direction or the other, as you prefer, in slices 
half as thick as your finger. Melt the frying-butter with a 
lively fire (or use oil), and when it begins to smoke, put in 
the potatoes; stir often with the skimmer, so that they will 
cook equally, they ought to be fully cooked at the end of eight 



244 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

or ten minutes. When they are of a fine golden color remove 
them from the butter with the skimmer. Put them an instant 
on a strainer to drip; put them on a dish; sprinkle with salt; 
and serve up. (Fr.) 

Potato Straws. — Peel, wash, and wipe some potatoes; 
cut them in little sticks hardly twice as thick as a straw. 
Melt some frying-butter with a lively fire; when it is all 
smoking, put the potato-straws into it. Let them cook four 
or five minutes, often stirring with the skimmer, put them a 
second on the strainer, to dry; put them on a dish, sprinkle 
with fine salt, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Puffed Potatoes are a kind of fried potatoes that are 
very common in Paris restaurants, and that require great dex- 
terity. The following receipt obtained from one of the best 
hotels at Cherbourg will, it is hoped, be clear. Peel, wash 
and wipe the potatoes, and cut them in round slices half as 
thick as your finger. As soon as the frying-butter is melted 
over a hot fire, put the potatoes in; as soon as the brown skin 
begins to form, take them out of the butter, and put them into 
other very hot frying-butter — not too many at a time, lest they 
injure one another. The skin will at once puff out. Take 
them from the butter, drain them well, sprinkle with fine salt, 
and serve up immediately. (Fr.) 

Potatoes in Landlord's Fashion. — Choose potatoes that 
do not lose their shape in cooking; cook them with water and 
salt; it takes half an hour or three quarters. When they are 
well cooked, peel them, cut them in round slices half as thick 
as your finger, put them into a sauce-pan with a piece of but- 
ter, salt, pepper and parsley chopped fine. Stew for an in- 
stant over the fire, and serve up hot. When the potatoes are 
very small, there is no need to cut them. (Fr.) 

Potato-Stew. — Choose potatoes that keep their shape in 
cooking. Peel and wash them. Put into a sauce-pan a good 
piece of butter, and let it brown slightly over a lively fire 
(or use oil) ; put into it one or two onions cut in round slices ; 
when the onion has taken a fine pale chestnut color, put the 
potatoes into the pan, with a cupful of water; season with 
salt and pepper, and a flavor-posy; let them cook with a fire 
that is not too lively for three quarters of an hour, or an 
hour. (Fr.) 



roots. 245 

Potatoes with White Sauce. — Choose potatoes that do 
not lose their shape in cooking. Cook them with water and 
salt ; peel them ; if they are large, cut them in halves, or quar- 
ters, or in round slices ; pour on them a Norman or Parisian 
white sauce, with or without parsley chopped fine, and slightly 
acidulated with vinegar. (Fr.) 

Potatoes in Sailor Fashion. — Choose potatoes that do 
not lose their shape in cooking; peel, and wash them. Put 
into a sauce-pan a dozen medium-size potatoes, a quarter of a 
pound of butter and a good spoonful of flour ; stir over a quick 
fire, until the butter and flour are of a fine chestnut color; 
moisten with a cupful of water and as much wine; add salt, 
pepper, a flavor-posy, a dozen small onions, then the potatoes ; 
cook, with covered sauce-pan, a half hour or three quar- 
ters. (Fr.) 

Potatoes in Provencal Fashion. — Take potatoes that 
do not lose their shape in cooking; peel, and wash them. For 
a dozen potatoes of medium size, put into a sauce-pan six 
spoonfuls of oil, some salt, pepper, garlic, parsley, scallion 
chopped very fine, a little nutmeg, then the potatoes. Cook 
them with covered sauce-pan half an hour, or three quarters, 
stirring them from time to time. (Fr.) 

Mashed Potatoes. — For six: Take twelve potatoes of 
medium size; preferably take round potatoes, of a very mealy 
kind. Wash them, cook them with water and salt. Peel them 
(carefully cutting out all the eyes or black specks), mash 
them, even pass them through the strainer, if you wish the 
mash to become quite fine; put them into a sauce-pan with a 
piece of butter as large as an egg (or four tablespoonfuls of 
oil), some salt, pepper and a little milk (or terralac), enough 
to make the desired consistency. Let them bubble once or 
twice, stirring them, so that they will not stick to the pan. 
Serve up. (Fr.) 

Browned Mashed Potatoes. — Make mashed potatoes as 
directed above; put them into a dish; smooth over the top; 
sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; let it brown in the Dutch 
oven. (Fr.) 

Duchess Potatoes. — For six persons, twelve potatoes. 
Prefer very mealy potatoes, among others the round yellow 
kind. Wash them; cook them in water with a little salt. Peel 



246 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and mash them; and pass them through the strainer; add to 
them some butter as large as an egg, three egg-yolks and 
whites, and, if you like, a little parsley chopped very fine; 
mix the whole well together. Divide into heaps as big as an 
egg; shape into balls, then flatten them, so as to form a cake 
of the thickness of the finger. In a frying-pan, or a broad- 
bottomed sauce-pan, slightly brown enough butter to make the 
depth of a sixteenth of an inch, or the thickness of a quarter 
of a dollar (or use oil) ; place in it the little potato-cakes near 
one another; when they are colored on one side, turn them 
on the other. When they are of a fine color, serve up. In- 
stead of merely browning them in a dish, they can be out-and- 
out fried; and they can also be made into croquettes. Shape 
them like pears, or like corks, flour them, dip them in the yolk 
of an egg and the white beaten with a spoonful of oil and a 
spoonful of water, and then in bread crumbled very fine; fry 
in very hot butter. Serve them up ornamented with fried 
parsley. (Fr.) 

Potato Soup. — Pare eight medium-size potatoes, and put 
them into a stew-pan with half a pint of chopped celery and 
four tablespoonfuls of minced onion. Cover with boiling water; 
put over a hot fire, and from that moment cook thirty minutes. 
Heat a pint and three quarters of milk (or terralac), in a 
double boiler. Mix a tablespoonful of flour with half a cupful 
of cold milk and stir them into the boiling milk. When the 
potatoes have been boiling thirty minutes, pour off the water, 
saving it to use later. Mash and beat the vegetables, until they 
are light and fine; then gradually beat in the water they were 
boiled in; rub them through a fine strainer; and put back on 
the fire. Add a teaspoonful and a half of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper. Beat with an egg-whisk for three minutes, 
then gradually beat in the boiling milk. Add a tablespoonful 
of butter and a teaspoonful of minced chervil, or parsley; and 
serve up at once. (Parloa.) 

French Potato Soup. — For six: Pare and wash seven 
or eight potatoes (more or less according to their size) ; cook 
them in enough water to wet them all over; when they are 
well cooked, at the end of about half an hour, mash them 
and pass them through the strainer. You should have at least 
three pints of the mash; and it should not be too thick. If 
it is, you will add a little water. Treat the mash in the same 
way as that for pea soup (p. 154). (Fr.) 



roots. 247 

Potato Salad. — Take potatoes that do not lose shape in 
cooking. Wash them, and cook them in water seasoned with 
salt. Peel them, and cut them in round slices. Sprinkle them 
with parsley and scallion chopped fine. Season like an ordin- 
ary salad, with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. This salad may 
be ornamented with round slices of cooked beets, with capers, 
and the like. Instead of the common salad dressing, you can 
pour on it a white or green mayonnaise dressing. (Fr.) 

Cabbage and Potato Mash. — Peel six medium-size pota- 
toes; put them into a stew-pan with boiling water enough to 
cover them; and cook them just thirty minutes. Pour off the 
water, and mash them fine and light. Beat in half a pint of 
milk (or terralac), two teaspoonfuls of butter, two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper and a pint of 
boiled and finely minced cabbage, cook about five minutes 
longer. (Parloa.) 

Potato Pie. — Two pounds of potatoes ; two ounces of 
onions (cut small) ; one ounce of butter (or two tablespoonfuls 
of palatable oil) ; and half an ounce of tapioca. Pare and 
cut the potatoes; season with pepper and salt; put them in 
a pie-dish, adding the onion, tapioca, a few pieces of butter 
(or the oil) on the top; and half a pint (a cup) of water; 
cover with paste, and bake in a moderately hot oven. A little 
celery, or powdered sage, may be added. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

CARROT. 

Choose very fresh carrots, of thickset shape, and of a fine 
dark color. The season for new carrots is from the first of 
May until the beginning of October. Those that are to be 
kept through the winter should be dug up in October, at latest 
by the end of that month, in quite dry weather. Cut off the 
leaves at an inch from the neck; place the carrots side by 
side on straw in a basement, or cellar, that is not damp, and 
where it does not freeze. Carrots are cleansed by cutting off 
the leaves and a small part of the neck, and by scraping with 
a knife, holding the root by one end; the tip of the root and 
the rootlets are cut off, and. the carrots are washed in plenty 
of water. Carrots for the pot-au-feu are cut lengthwise; those 
for garnishing stews are cut in round slices, or in the shape 
of corks or small pears. (Fr.) 



248 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

The carrot is valuable as a vegetable and as a flavorer. 
When partially grown and fresh, its flavor is delicious, and it 
is so tender that it can be cooked without water. As it grows 
older, the flavor becomes stronger, and, in most varieties, the 
heart grows hard and woody; and then only the outer layers 
are desirable for food. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Carrots. — Wash and brush the carrots; boil them 
in plenty of water, till quite tender, adding a little salt; rub 
off the skin with a clean cloth; cut them in slices, and serve 
them up with butter sauce. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Carrots with White Sauce. — Scrape the carrots lightly; 
then cut into large dice or slices, put into a stew-pan with 
salted boiling water, allowing a teaspoonful of salt for a quart 
of water; and boil them tender. Young carrots will cook in 
thirty minutes, old ones in forty-five. Drain, season with a 
little salt, put them into a vegetable dish, and pour white 
sauce over them. Or, after the draining, put the carrots back 
into the stew-pan, and for every pint of them add a table- 
spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, and a gill of water; and cook over a hot fire, until 
the carrots have absorbed the seasonings and liquid. (Parloa.) 

Carrots in Country Fashion. — Scrape some fine red car- 
rots with a knife and wash them; let them cook in water with 
a little salt; when they are well cooked, cut them in round 
slices of the thickness of a quarter of a dollar. For about a 
pound of carrots, put into a sauce-pan, or a frying-pan, some 
butter as large as an egg, let it brown slightly, and add two 
onions cut in thin round slices; when the onions have taken 
a fine chestnut color, put the carrots in with a cupful of milk; 
thicken with half a spoonful of flour; season with salt and 
pepper; let simmer ten minutes, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Small New Carrots with Pullet Sauce. — Scrape some 
small new carrots, cut off the tips and the rootlets, wash well. 
For about a pound of carrots put into a sauce-pan some but- 
ter as large as an egg, and a spoonful of flour; melt, and mix 
well; moisten with a cupful of water; add one or two onions, 
a flavor-posy, season with salt and pepper, boil for several 
bubbles; put the small carrots in, let them cook half an hour, 
take out the posy and the onions, thicken with two yolks of 
eggs, or with yolks and cream (p. 118). (Fr.) 



roots. 249 

Cressy or Carrot Soup. — Cleanse, and wash about half a 
pound of carrots, cut them in pieces, put them into n sauce- 
pan with some butter a little larger than an egg and with the 
white part of two leeks and an onion of medium size cut in 
quarters. Cook slightly in the butter. Then put with them 
a pint of water and two ounces of bread; let them simmer 
over a gentle fire with the sauce-pan covered, until the carrots 
are entirely cooked. Pass them through a fine strainer; then 
set them over the fire again with a quart of water. Simmer 
quite gently for about an hour with the sauce-pan covered, 
taking care to stir now and then with a wooden spoon. Serve 
up with fried bits of bread. (Fr.) 

Carrot Pie. — Carrots and three ounces of butter (or six 
tablespoonfuls of palatable oil). Fill a dish with carrots, 
half-boiled and cut in slices; season with pepper and salt; 
put in the butter (or oil), and a little water; cover with 
paste, and bake it. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Angel Locks. — Scrape and wash a pound and a half of 
fine red carrots; cut them in very fine strips like straws; put 
them one or two minutes into boiling water; then take them 
out, and drain them. Into a sauce-pan put a pound of sugar 
with a cupful of water ; boil ten minutes, and put in the carrot 
strips and a lemon-zest chopped very fine. When the syrup 
is well boiled down, squeeze upon the carrots the juice of a 
lemon. When the syrup is completely boiled down, take it 
from the fire; spread the strips upon a plate; let them cool; 
pile them up in the shape of a pyramid, and serve up. (Fr.) 

SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. 

Salsify is of a yellowish-gray color; viper's grass, or winter 
salsify, called scorzonera, is black; the viper's grass is often 
the more tender. Both are prepared in the same way. The 
sort of leafy heart made up of the leaves where they join the 
root of the salsify is good to eat. It is cleansed and washed, 
and put in bunches, and is cooked with the salisfy, or sep- 
arately, in all the ways indicated for salsify. (Fr.) 

Salsify may be left in the ground over winter, and can 
therefore be used in the late summer, fall and spring. To pre- 
vent it from turning dark, it must be dropped, as soon as it is 



250 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

pared and cut, into a mixture of flour and water made slightly 
acid with vinegar. (Parloa.) 

Cooking Salsify. — Wash and scrape six good sized roots, 
then cut them into slices about three inches long, and drop 
them into a mixture of a tablespoonful of vinegar, two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and three pints of 
water. In a stew-pan over the fire, cook thirty minutes, count- 
ing from the time the boiling begins. Drain the salsify, and 
serve it up in a white sauce. Or mix together a tablespoonful 
of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of lemon 
juice, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley, or chervil; and 
add the mixture to the drained salsify, and serve up at once. 
(Parloa.) 

Salsify with White Sauce. — Scrape the salsify roots, re- 
move the top and the rootlets, and throw into water to which 
a little vinegar has been added, a quarter of a cupful of vinegar 
to two quarts of water; this precaution is to prevent the roots 
from turning black. Boil enough water to cover the salsify 
completely, with a small handful of salt; when it boils with 
big bubbles, put the salsify in; cook half an hour; drain well. 
Put into a dish, pour on it a Parisian or Norman white sauce; 
boil a bubble or two; add a little vinegar; serve up. (Fr.) 

Salsify with Pullet Sauce. — Scrape the salsify, remove 
the top and the rootlets, and throw into water with a little 
vinegar, a quarter of a cupful of vinegar to two quarts of 
water; this is to prevent the roots from turning black. - Put 
into a sauce-pan some butter and some flour; when the butter 
is melted and well mixed with the flour, moisten with two 
cupfuls of water; add salt, pepper, one or two onions, then 
the salsify; there should be enough sauce to cover the salsify, 
when it is put into the sauce-pan. Cook, with covered sauce- 
pan, half an hour at least. Take out the onion ; thicken with 
the yolks of eggs, or with the yolks and cream (p. 118). If 
the sauce at the end of the cooking is too thin, take out the 
salsify, with a skimmer, and boil down the sauce with a big 
fire, before adding the thickening. The left-over part of the 
salsify with pullet sauce can be fried. (Fr.) 

Fried Salsify. — Prepare, and cook the salsify in boiling 
water with a little salt as if for a white sauce, or a pullet 
sauce; dip into frying batter (p. 312), and fry of a fine 
color. (Fr.) 



ROOTS. 251 

Scorzonera. — Wash and scrape the scorzonera (or viper's 
grass, or winter salsify, black) taking off the tops, as with 
carrots ; put it in cold water ; tie in small bundles, and boil in 
the same way as asparagus ; and serve it up on toast with 
butter sauce. Salsify is prepared in the same way. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Fried Scorzonera. — Wash and scrape the scorzonera, tak- 
ing off the tops, as with carrots ; boil it, till it is tender ; then 
dip it in butter, and fry it; lay two or three of the roots to- 
gether, and serve them up with brown sauce. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

PARSNIP. 

The parsnip has a strong flavor, and is probably not so 
generally liked as most of the other roots. It is at its best 
in the early spring, when it has been in the ground all winter. 
(Parloa.) 

Cooking Parsnips. — The simplest method of cooking the 
parsnip is to wash it clean; boil it, and then scrape off the 
skin; then cut it in slices and put them into the vegetable 
dish, and season them with salt and butter. Tender parsnips, 
fresh from the ground, will cook in thirty-five minutes; old 
ones need from forty to fifty minutes. The cooked and peeled 
parsnips may be chopped rather coarse, seasoned with salt 
and put into a stew-pan with hot milk (or terralac) enough to 
cover them. Put the stew-pan on the stove where the heat 
is moderate. Stir into them, for every pint and a half a 
tablespoonful of butter (or two of oil), and a teaspoonful 
of flour; and simmer for ten minutes. Parsnips, after boiling, 
are often cut in slices and fried in butter. (Parloa.) 

Baked Parsnips. — Scrape or pare the parsnips, and if 
they are large, cut them into quarters; lay them on a flat 
baking dish; add a little water; dredge with flour and salt; 
and bake, till soft, and slightly browned. A little butter (or 
palatable oil) may be put on the top just before serving them 
up. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

JERUSALEM-ARTICHOKES. 

Jerusalem-Artichokes, tubers of the Helianthus tuberosus, 
a kind of sunflower, look a little like deformed, twisted and 
violet-colored potatoes. In taste, they resemble the bottom 



252 YEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of the globe-artichoke (Cynara scolymus), but are a little more 
insipid and sweeter. They are eaten alone, or as a garnish. 
They can be used as a garnish where salsify or artichoke- 
bottoms are used. (Fr.) 

The jerusalem-artichoke is in season in the fall and 
spring; and may be cooked like kohl-rabi, and served up in 
a white, or cream, sauce; or it may be cooked in milk (or 
terralac) ; and it makes a very good soup. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Jerusalem-Artichokes. — Wash and brush the 
artichokes ; but do not peel them ; boil them as potatoes ; drain 
and peel, and serve them up hot in a vegetable dish, with 
butter sauce poured over them. They may also be boiled and 
mashed as turnips, with a little cream (or terralac) ; adding 
pepper and salt. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Jerusalem-Artichokes in Milk (or Terralac). — Cut 
the washed and peeled artichokes into cubes ; put them into a 
double boiler stew-pan, and cover with milk (or terralac), a 
large pint to a quart of cubes. Add a small onion and cook 
twenty minutes. Beat together a tablespoonful of butter and 
a level tablespoonful of flour, and stir them into the boiling 
milk. Then season with a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter- 
teaspoonful of pepper, and continue the cooking half an hour 
longer. (Parloa.) 

Jerusalem-Artichokes with White Sauce. — Wash some 
jerusalem-artichokes, put them over the fire with enough water 
to cover them, and with some salt. Prove the cooking with a 
pin ; it must penetrate very easily ; it needs about half an hour, 
or three quarters, of cooking. Peel them, cut them in round 
slices; put them in a Parisian or Norman white sauce, into 
which you put a little vinegar; let them bubble again. Serve 
up. (Fr.) 

Jerusalem-Artichokes in Landlord's Fashion. — Cook 
jerusalem-artichokes as if for a white sauce, with water and 
salt; peel them; cut them in round slices; stew them with a 
good piece of butter (or with oil) ; sprinkle them with salt 
and pepper and parsley chopped very fine; serve up as soon 
as the butter is melted. A dash of vinegar can be added. (Fr.) 

Fried Jerusalem- Artichokes. — Cook jerusalem-arti- 
chokes as if for a white sauce, with water and salt; peal them; 
cut them in round slices; souse them in a little vinegar, with 



roots. 258 

salt and pepper, dip them into frying-batter (p. 312). Fry 
them in very hot butter or oil. (Fr.) 

Jerusalem-Artichoke Salad. — Is made in the same way 
as potato salad. (Fr.) 

Jerusalem-Artichokes for a Garxish. — Cook Jerusalem- 
artichokes as if for a white sauce, with water and salt; peel 
them, cut them in round slices or lengthwise. Put them into 
the white or brown stews to be garnished, one or two minutes 
before serving up. (Fr.) 

Jerusalem-Artichokes with Pullet Sauce. — Put into a 
sauce-pan a piece of butter (larger or smaller according to the 
number of Jerusalem-artichokes) and a good tablespoonful of 
flour; stir over the fire with the wooden spoon, until the butter 
and flour are well mixed ; add about two cupfuls of water, 
some salt and pepper; boil several bubbles; add the Jerusalem- 
artichokes well peeled, washed and cut in round slices not 
thicker than your finger, then one or two onions. Cook about 
half an hour; thicken with the yolks of eggs, or the yolks of 
eggs and cream (p. 118). Serve up. (Fr.) 

SWEET-POTATO. 

At the North, the dry sweet-potato is preferred ; at the 
South, the moist. Potatoes grown for the northern market are 
commonly less sweet and moist than those for the southern. 
But long cooking will make any sweet potato moist. (Parloa.) 

Sweet-potatoes may be cooked in all the ways indicated 
for potatoes. (Fr.) 

Baked Sweet-Potatoes. — Wash the potatoes, and bake, 
the same as white potatoes. Small ones will bake in half an 
hour, but very large ones need an hour or more. If you like 
them very moist and sweet, bake from an hour to two hours, 
according to their size. (Parloa.) 

Browned Sweet-Potatoes. — Boil medium-size sweet pota- 
toes forty-five minutes. Peel them and cut them in halves 
lengthwise. Put them in a baking pan, and baste them with 
butter (or sweet oil), and season with salt. Cook them in a 
hot oven for twenty minutes. (Parloa.) 

Fried Sweet-Potatoes. — Cut the boiled potatoes in slices, 
and fry them brown in butter. Or the potatoes may be cut 



254 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

in quarters lengthwise, put into a frying basket, and cooked 
for ten minutes in smoking hot butter (or oil) that is deep 
enough to cover the potatoes. (Parloa.) 

Candied Sweet-Potatoes. — Candied sweet potatoes are 
much liked at the South, and when well prepared are ex- 
tremely palatable. Cut boiled sweet potatoes into large slices ; 
place them in an earthen dish; put lumps of butter (or oil) 
on each slice; and sprinkle with sugar. Some cooks add a 
little water also. Bake until the sugar and butter have candied, 
and the potatoes are brown. (Parloa.) 

VARIOUS VEGETABLES MIXED. 

Vegetable Hash. — Hash may be made of one or many 
cooked vegetables. The potato is the most useful vegetable 
for a hash, as it combines well with other vegetables. The 
vegetables should be cut fairly fine, yet not so fine that the 
pieces lose their shape, or stick together. Each vegetable must 
be cut up separately; then all be mixed. They must be well 
seasoned with salt and pepper; and, if liked, a little minced 
onion, chives, parsley, chervil or finely minced green pepper 
may be added. The hash must be moistened a little with broth, 
milk (or terralac) or water, not more than half a cupful for a 
quart of hash. Spread the mixed, seasoned and moistened hash 
lightly upon a tablespoonful of butter melted (or use oil) in 
a frying-pan, adding over it little dots of butter, about an- 
other tablespoonful in all (or, instead two spoonfuls of oil). 
Cover the pan, and place it where the hash will not burn, 
but where the heat is fairly good ; and cook for half an hour ; 
then fold and turn on a hot platter. A rich brown crust will 
have formed on the bottom of the hash, if the heat was enough. 
Serve it up very hot upon hot plates. (Parloa.) 

Vegetable Broth (or Stock Resembling Ordinary 
Stock). — Into three quarts of water put four or five carrots, 
one turnip, three or four leeks tied together in a bunch, a 
piece of cabbage, an onion with two cloves sticking in it, a 
flavor-posy, a sprig of celery, some salt, some pepper-corns, 
a quarter of a pound of butter; let them boil gently for three 
hours; taste; add coloring. After passing this broth through 
a strainer, you may use it like ordinary stock. It is parti- 
cularly good with rice and tapioca, to which you add the car- 



MIXED VEGETABLES. 255 

rots washed and passed through the strainer. (Fr.) The 
French author adds: " I have seen individuals think they 
were eating a meat soup, a little light, it is true, but very 
nice." As a matter of fact, it is more nourishing than the in- 
nutritious, if not even poisonous (see p. 56), soup-stock or 
consomme made with meat. 

Vegetable Broth. — Half fill a pan that will contain about 
four quarts with turnips, carrots, onions and other vegetables 
(cut in pieces); add seasoning herbs, mushrooms and salt; 
nearly fill the pan with water, and boil all together, till the 
vegetables are tender; then strain it, and use as required. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Brown Soup. — One pound of turnips ; one pound of car- 
rots; half a pound of celery; six ounces of onions; one pint 
and a half of peas ; four ounces of butter (or eight spoonfuls 
of palatable oil) ; and half a pound of bread. Cut the vegeta- 
bles into small pieces; put them into the pan with the butter 
(or oil), cover the pan, and let them stew over the fire, till 
brown, occasionally stirring them; put in the peas with the 
water in which they were boiled ; add enough boiling water to 
make three quarts in all; next add the bread, which should 
be browned, or toasted, before the fire, but not burnt; season 
with black pepper-corns, pimento (allspice) and salt; let the 
soup boil gently three or four hours ; rub it through a coarse 
sieve; return it into the pan; let it boil, and it will be ready 
to be served up. If dried peas be used, they should be steeped 
twenty-four hours in soft water, and boiled two hours. 
("Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Another Brown Soup. — Six turnips; six carrots; four 
potatoes; four onions; and three roots of celery. Slice and 
fry the vegetables in butter (or palatable oil) ; put them in a 
pan with five quarts of boiling water; let them stew four or 
five hours ; pass the soup through a sieve ; season with pepper 
and salt, and when it is boiled it will be ready to serve up. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Mixed Vegetable Soup. — When three quarts of water are 
boiling hard in a stew-pan, add a quart of shredded cabbage, 
half a pint of minced carrot, half a pint of minced turnip, 
half a pint of minced onion, a leek, two tablespoonfuls of 
minced celery, and two tablespoonfuls of green pepper. Boil 



256 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

rapidly for ten minutes, then draw the pan back where it 
will boil gently for an hour. Then add a pint of sliced potato, 
two tomatoes, two tablespoonfuls of butter (or four table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil), three teaspoonfuls of salt and half 
a teaspoonful of pepper; and cook an hour longer. Have the 
cover partly off the sauce-pan throughout the cooking. The 
soup may be varied by using different kinds of vegetables. 
(Parloa.) 

Herb Soup. — Into a stew-pan with four tablespoonfuls of 
butter (or, say, eight tablespoonfuls of palatable oil) put the 
white heart leaves of a head of lettuce, half a pint of spinach, 
and a quarter-pint of sorrel, that all are fresh and tender and 
free from tough midribs, and that have been washed and 
shredded (the spinach finely), and a quarter-pint of a blanched 
and thinly sliced leek; and cook them fifteen minutes, taking 
care not to brown them. Then add four potatoes of medium 
size, three teaspoonfuls of salt, and two quarts of boiling water. 
Place the stew-pan where the soup will boil quickly; and as 
soon as boiling begins, draw the pan back where it will boil 
gently for an hour. Then crush the potatoes with a fork; 
add a tablespoonful of chervil; simmer five minutes longer; 
turn into the soup-tureen ; add half a pint of bread cut in dice 
and fried in butter, or browned in the oven; and serve up. 
If preferred, the soup may be rubbed through a fine strainer; 
returned to the fire; and when boiling hot, be poured on the 
yolks of two eggs that have been beaten with two table- 
spoonfuls of milk (or terralac). This soup may be varied 
indefinitely. Any number of green vegetables may be used, 
with care to use only a small quantity of those that have strong 
flavor. (Parloa.) 

Hotchpotch. — Four large turnips; one pound of carrots; 
one onion ; one lettuce ; and parsley. Set four quarts of water 
in a pan on the fire, and put in the carrots and turnips (part 
of which must be grated, and the rest cut in small square 
pieces) with the other vegetables (all cut small) ; season with 
pepper and salt, adding a small piece of soda, and let all 
boil well together slowly. Young green peas may be added, 
part of them to be put in with the other vegetables, and the 
rest about an hour before the soup is ready. Other vegetables 
may be added. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 



MIXED VEGETABLES. 257 

Winter Hotchpotch. — Four carrots ; four turnips ; four 
onions ; one pound of dried green peas ; one savoy cabbage ; 
and one root of celery. When the peas have been picked and 
washed, steep them twelve hours in fresh soft water, or with 
a small piece of soda put into the water in which they are to 
be steeped; put half the carrots and the turnips (sliced), and 
a whole one of each, the peas, cabbage and onions into a pan 
with four quarts of water; let the whole boil two hours, then 
take out the whole carrot and turnip; bruise them well, and 
return them with the rest of the sliced vegetables into the 
pan ; boil the whole gently for an hour, and when they are 
nearly ready, add the white part of a root of celery cut into 
very small shreds. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Spring Soup. — Cook in some water (or broth), along with 
some sugar as large as an English walnut, a medium-size car- 
rot, a small potato, a small turnip cut into balls as thick as 
the little finger, and a small handful of young lima-beans 
(flageolets) ; add water (or broth) enough to complete the 
soup; then, when the whole boils well, a quarter of an hour 
before taking from the fire, add asparagus-tips, green peas 
and some small bits of cauliflower. (Fr.) 

Spring Soup with Poached Eggs. — If you desire a soup 
still more elaborate than the foregoing, you can add to it in 
the soup-tureen some poached eggs. One of them is served 
up with some soup and some of the vegetables to each guest. 
It is a dish prized by epicures. (Fr.) 

Julienne Soup. — For six: Take a large carrot, or two of 
medium size; a potato; a small turnip; a leek; a small onion; 
a very small sprig of parsley ; one or two cabbage-leaves. Cut 
the carrots, potato, turnip, cabbage-leaf into very fine little 
strips ; chop up the onion, the leek, the parsley and the celery. 
Put some butter larger than an egg (or, say, four table- 
spoonfuls of palatable oil) and some sugar as large as a large 
English walnut into a sauce-pan, and let them brown slightly; 
cook in them slightly the vegetables prepared as just described; 
add a cupful of water, salt, pepper; let the whole simmer two 
hours over a gentle fire. Add three pints of water; boil a 
quarter of an hour longer; add coloring, if necessary; serve 
up hot. A spoonful of rice may be added and cooked along 
with the vegetables. Also it is an improvement to add some 



258 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

green peas, or string-beans, or lima-beans, lessening a little 
the quantity of the other vegetables. (Fr.) 

Mashed Julienne Soup. — Strain the foregoing soup; let 
it simmer some minutes on the fire; serve up. This kind of 
soup should not be too thick. (Fr.) 

Julienne Soup with Dried Vegetables is not so good 
as with fresh ones, but sometimes may do. Soak the vegeta- 
bles some hours in advance; drain them. Brown the butter 
and sugar; add the vegetables, and proceed as with fresh 
ones. (Fr.) 

Brown Vegetable-Medley, a garnish. — For eight or ten 
persons: Into a sauce-pan put some butter as large as an 
egg (or four tablespoonfuls of oil) and a tablespoonful of 
flour; stir over a quick fire, until the butter and flour are of 
a fine chestnut color; moisten with two cupfuls of water, or 
of broth ; season with salt and pepper, and add the follow- 
ing vegetables: two medium-size carrots and a turnip cut into 
pieces at most as thick as your little finger, and a quarter as 
long; a medium-size onion chopped fine; a handful of small 
lima-beans; a lump of sugar as large as an English walnut. 
Let simmer at least two hours. An hour before the cooking 
is complete, add a handful of string-beans well picked over 
and cut to half the length of your little finger; a fine potato 
cut like the carrots and the turnip (the string beans and the 
potato are added late, because they need less time for cook- 
ing) ; boil down to a not too dilute sauce ; put into the dish ; 
place thereon what viands you please; ornamented with little 
branches of cauliflower, or little piles of green peas, asparagus- 
tips, brussels-sprouts ; cook each kind separately, with water 
and salt. It is not indispensable that all the vegetables indi- 
cated should enter into this stew; those are used that you can 
get; a cook, though she has a good guide, must sometimes have 
discretion of her own. (Fr.) 

White Vegetable-Medley, a garnish and side dish. — 
For eight or ten persons: Proceed exactly as just described 
for the brown vegetable-medley, but without waiting until the 
butter and flour become brown, only until they are well mixed ; 
and add the same vegetables in the same way. Boil down 
to a not too dilute sauce; thicken with two yolks of eggs, or 
one yolk and two spoonfuls of cream; put into a dish in 



MIXED VEGETABLES. 259 

the same way and with the same additions as just described 
for the brown vegetable-medley. The white vegetable-med- 
ley can be used without any accompanying viand; then it is 
a side dish, and it can be presented, if you like, surrounded 
by fried bits of bread. (Fr.) 

Vegetable-Medley Salad, salad and side dish. — Cook in 
water with a little salt, but separately, a handful each of 
celery chopped fine, string-beans, small lima-beans, green peas, 
brussels-sprouts ; also, the bottoms of two artichokes, one 
cauliflower, three potatoes, two medium-size carrots, two 
medium-size turnips. Drain them well, and let them cool; 
cut the artichokes, potatoes, carrots and turnips in slices, the 
cauliflower in small sprigs. Arrange the different vegetables 
symmetrically and tastefully in a salad-bowl; adorn with 
some cores of lettuce, or Roman salad, but in small quantity, 
and some hard boiled eggs cut in quarters, and the like. Season 
with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, like an ordinary salad, but 
a little more; or else pour upon it a white or green mayon- 
naise. (Fr.) 

Vegetable Pie. — Carrots; turnips; onions; celery; and 
two ounces of butter (or four tablespoonfuls of palatable oil). 
Cut the vegetables in pieces, put them in the pan with the 
butter (or oil), and very little water; season with pepper and 
salt ; stew them over the fire, and when they are nearly tender, 
pour them into a pie dish; when it is cool, cover with paste, 
and bake it. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

A Vegetable Curry. — A stew called kari (or kah-ree) 
by the Hindoos. For two portions: Cut a small onion, or half 
a large one, into thin slices and put them with a piece of 
butter the size of an egg (or four tablespoonfuls of olive 
oil, or other palatable oil), into a sauce-pan, and let them 
brown slightly over the fire. Pare a good-sized potato and a 
half, or one large potato, and cut it into thin slices, and 
wash them. When the onion is browned, add to it the potato 
and, if convenient, half a pint of canned green peas; and 
cover the pan. Mix a good tablespoonful of wheat flour with 
very little water, so as not to become lumpy ; then, add enough 
water to make about a cupful in all; and put in a teaspoonful 
of curry-powder (more or less, according to taste) and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Add this mixture to the potatoes, when 
they have cooked some fifteen minutes, and are almost soft; 



260 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and, stirring all the time, or still better in a double boiler, 
let the whole cook gently an hour or so longer. Instead of the 
peas, or in addition, one or more other vegetables may be 
added: asparagus cut in short bits, or any other shoots, or 
mushrooms ; spinach, or other leaves ; any kind of pulse ; egg- 
plant cut in small pieces, tomatoes, okra, cucumbers, pumpkin 
or squash; in short any vegetables rich in protein, but not 
sweet, and very starchy ones in addition to the potato. 
Macaroni can be put in, or even bread-bits. The potato can 
be used alone; or can be omitted. If canned food be used, 
it should be put in after the potato has cooked for fifteen 
minutes. For eating you use a dessert-spoon and fork to mix 
the curry with boiled rice; and, in eating the partly liquid 
mixture, use the spoon. The rice should be boiled in such 
a way as to be loose, though thoroughly cooked and soft. In- 
stead of rice, hominy may be used, having nearly the same 
composition; or finely crumbled bread can be used instead 
of rice. A speck of chutney can, in eating, be added to each 
spoonful of curry and rice. It is a great mistake to suppose 
that very hot spicing is essential to curries; though it is true, 
that Europeans living in the tropical East, with little bodily 
exercise, and consequently with torpid stomachs, are apt ex- 
cessively to crave such a stimulant. 

White Curry. — To curry (especially if made with 
gourds), cocoanut milk may be added; or, instead, almond 
milk, or filbert milk, or brazil-nut milk, or terralac (peanut 
milk). 

Curry Powder. — Pound the following ingredients in a 
marble mortar, and rub them through a fine sieve: three ounces 
each of coriander seed and turmeric; one ounce each of black 
pepper, mustard and ginger; one half ounce of allspice, and 
rather less of cardamoms ; one quarter ounce of cumin-seed. 
Thoroughly pound and mix them together, and keep them in 
a well stoppered bottle. The ingredients are the same as are 
used in India, except that, there, some are in a raw green 
state. (Kitchiner.) In India, the cook mixes the spices ac- 
cording to his own taste. 

Curry Powder. — Three ounces of coriander seed; three 
ounces of turmeric; one ounce each of black pepper, mustard 
and ginger; half an ounce each of mace and cloves; less than 
half an ounce of cardamoms; and a quarter of an ounce each 



MIXED VEGETABLES. 261 

of cumin-seed and cayenne pepper. Put the ingredients in 
a cool oven all night; pound them in a marble mortar; rub 
them through a hair sieve, and keep in a bottle well corked. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Chutney is variously compounded, and has various names 
according to the leading ingredient: Tomato, cucumber, 
brinjal, coconut, mint, cranberry, cranberry and tamarind, 
mashed potato, mango, mango and tamarind, apple and goose- 
berry chutneys. To the leading ingredient some onion, celery, 
and green chillies, all chopped, and salt and vinegar are added, 
but no oil (except to the cucumber, together with some sugar). 
The mint should be scalded and sweetened. To the cran- 
berry, made mustard and pounded preserved ginger is added; 
also to the cranberry and tamarind, together with chillies and 
mustard seed. To the mashed-potato, add minced onions, 
green chillies, salt, pepper, vinegar and some sugar. To the 
mango, mango and tamarind, apple and gooseberry chutneys 
are added dried currants or raisins, ginger, red pepper or 
chillies, garlic, mustard-seed, sugar, and vinegar. Joan Crom- 
well's grand salad, practically a chutney, contained equal parts 
of almonds, raisins, capers, pickled cucumber, and boiled 
turnips, together with cream, oiled butter, or olive oil, and a 
salad-flavoring mixture of vinegar, lemon and herbs. (Thudi- 
cum.) Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian 
mango. (Kitchiner.) 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



NUTS. 



WALNUTS. 

Giving to Dry Old Walnuts the Appearance of Fresh 
Ones. — It is only necessary to soak the old walnuts seven or 
eight days in cold water. They regain a part of their first 
quality, and the pellicle is easily removed. (Fr.) 

Salted Green Walnuts. — Take large English walnuts at 
the moment when the meat is fully formed but not completely 
ripe; split them in two; with the point of a knife detach each 
half-meat and throw them one by one into cold water mixed 
with a little vinegar, to hinder their turning black. At the 
moment of serving up the green walnuts, drain them, and put 
them in a salad bowl, or preserve dish; add, for 50 walnuts, 
which makes 100 pieces, a heaping spoonful of coarse kitchen- 
salt well crushed ; toss the green walnuts and salt in the salad 
bowl, and pass them around. Some people add to the season- 
ing a dash of vinegar; but not to do so is more likely to meet 
with the guests' approval. (Fr.) 

Walnut or Butternut Catchup. — Gather walnuts or 
butternuts when they can be pierced with a pin. Beat them 
to a soft pulp, and let them lie for two weeks in quite salt 
water; say, a small handful of salt to every twenty nuts, and 
water enough to cover them. Drain off this liquor; and mix 
a pint of boiling vinegar w ; th the nuts, and then strain it out, 
adding the strained vinegar to the previously drained liquor. 
To each quart of the resulting liquid add three tablespoon fuls 
of pepper, one of ginger, two of powdered cloves and three 
of grated nutmeg, carefully mixing the spices equally. Boil 
an hour, and bottle it, when it is cold. (Beecher.) 

Walnut Comfits. — Take green walnuts of which the meat 
is not yet formed, peel them slightly, and, as you do so, throw 
them into a basin of cold water; boil them until a pin can be 
pushed through them; take them from the fire; throw them 
into cold water, and drain them well. For each pound of the 
walnuts, put into an untinned copper sauce-pan a pound of 
sugar and a cupful of water; boil with a strong fire; stir, and 
skim from time to time, until the syrup marks 29 degrees of 
the syrup gauge; then pour the syrup upon the walnuts, and 
let them soak in it for 24 hours. Take the walnuts from the 



nuts. 268 

syrup, boil the syrup over the fire, until it marks 32 degrees; 
again pour it upon the walnuts, and let them soak 24 hours. 
Boil the syrup for a third time, and until it reaches 33 de- 
grees; pour it boiling upon the walnuts; and let them soak 
this time 18 hours. Then, put the walnuts into jars with 
their syrup, or dry them in a warm place, or dry them in an 
oven heated only, say, to 68 or 104 degrees Fahrenheit, and 
afterwards shut them up in boxes. Walnuts so prepared can 
be used for dessert. (Fr.) Doubtless the American black 
walnut or the butternut might be preserved in the same way 
as the English walnut. 

ALMONDS. 

Salted Almonds. — Almonds are sometimes salted by being 
boiled in very strong brine made from the best table salt and 
a little water. After draining, they are browned in a little 
butter or olive oil. The salt penetrates throughout, and is 
thought to make them keep better than if merely salted out- 
side ; and they are cleaner to handle. Salted nuts may be 
served up in individual plates. (" Philadelphia Ledger.") 

Marchpane. — Blanch half a pound of walnuts, pound 
them in a mortar, adding now and then a little white of egg, 
to prevent their turning to oil, and so using about the white 
of two eggs; add a little lemon-zest chopped fine (or vanilla 
powder) and half a pound of powdered sugar; divide the 
paste into little lumps, and put them on sheets of paper, flat- 
tening them a little; cook ten or fifteen minutes in a very 
gentle oven. Do not open the oven, until they are completely 
cooked; for they would not rise. Do not detach them from 
the paper, until they are quite cold. (Fr.) 

Macaroons. — Macaroons are made in the same way as 
marchpanes; only, more sugar is used. (Fr.) 

Nougat or Almond Cake. — Blanch a pound of almonds 
(by plunging them for five minutes into boiling water, drain- 
ing and peeling them) ; wash and wipe them well, cut them 
into shreds, or coarsely chop them; dry them in a sauce-pan 
over a gentle fire, taking care to stir them all the time. Into 
a sauce-pan over the fire put three quarters of a pound of 
sugar; melt it, while stirring with a spoon; when the sugar 
is melted and of a fine brownish color, put the warm almonds 



264 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

in; take from the fire, and set up as thinly as possible in a 
carefully oiled mould. The setting up should be done as 
rapidly as possible, so as to leave no time for getting cold. 
In order not to burn your fingers, you press on the almonds 
and sugar with a well-cleaned and dried carrot, or with a 
lemon. When large nougats are made the sugar and almonds 
must be cooked in several portions; one individual sets up 
the nougat, while another looks after the cooking of the sugar 
and almonds. (Fr.) 

Almond Milk. — To have a pint of milk, take a quarter 
pound of sweet almonds, to which you add some bitter al- 
monds ; put them some minutes into boiling water, to enable 
an easy removal of the skin; when they are well blanched, 
pound them in a mortar with three ounces of sugar and a 
spoonful of orange-flower water; add a pint of milk; boil 
some minutes; strain, with strong pressure; cool down. (Fr.) 

Orgeat Syrup. — Weigh, without mixing, two pounds and 
a half of water and five pounds of sugar. Throw a pound and 
a half of sweet almonds and a quarter of a pound of bitter 
almonds into boiling water so as to be able to rid them of 
their skin; then, when rid of it, put them into cold water, 
drain them, and pound them up in a mortar, a small quantity 
at a time, adding now and then some drops of orange-flower 
water, to prevent their turning to oil. When the almonds are 
reduced to paste, wet them with a little more than half of 
the weighed water; strain the mixture through a cloth, press- 
ing as strongly as possible. Return the rest of the pounded 
almonds to the mortar, and pound them again, adding a little 
sugar and finally by degrees the rest of the water; strain this 
new liquid, and add it to the former. Put the rest of the 
sugar with a little water over the fire, boil a few bubbles, 
and skim; add to it the almond milk just prepared, and stir, 
until it begins to boil, then take from the fire; add half a 
cupful of orangeflower water; cool down, and put into 
bottles. (Fr.) 

Burnt Almonds. — Take a pound of sweet almonds, or fil- 
berts, or pistachio nuts; rub them in a cloth to remove all 
their dust; put them with a pound of sugar and half a cupful 
of water in an untinned copper or brass frying pan, or sauce- 
pan, over the fire. When the nuts begin to crackle rather 
strongly, take from the fire, and stir them with a wooden 



nuts. 265 

spoon, until the sugar becomes like white sand. Take the 
nuts and half the sugar out of the pan; put the other half of 
the sugar with half a cupful of water over the fire again; 
boil, until there is a slight caramel odor; then put the nuts 
in again; take the pan from the fire, and turn the nuts over, 
until they are well coated with sugar ; take them from the pan. 
Put into the pan, with half a cupful of water, the sugar you 
have put aside; boil until there is a little caramel odor, put 
the nuts in, and take from the fire; stir the nuts, until they 
have taken up all the sugar; take them out, place them on 
paper, with care not to let them stick together. (Fr.) 

Replacing. — Almonds as an accessory of a dish can, in 
case of need, be replaced by English walnuts or filberts, not- 
withstanding the flavor is not exactly the same. (Fr.) 

FILBERTS. 

Filbert Milk is made in the same way as almond milk 
(p. 26i). (Fr.) 

CHOCOLATE. 

There are two ways to prepare chocolate: with water, and 
with milk. Prepared with water, the chocolate digests more 
easily; but with milk, is more unctuous and more agreeable. 
In either case, the chocolate as manufactured should be sweet 
enough not to need more sugar, which would take the place 
of so much chocolate, and so lessen the flavor. As manufac- 
tured, each pound is divided into eight tablets, each of which 
is enough for a cupful of water, or of milk (or terralac), 
about the quantity which is understood by a cupful of choco- 
late; the evening cup is one half of that. Break the tablets 
in pieces ; do not grate them, for that takes away a great part 
of the flavor. Avoid using chocolate-pots of bronze or iron; 
for they may give a blackish color, and sometimes, especially 
the bronze ones, a bad taste. When you wish to have foam- 
ing chocolate, use the apparatus called chocolatiere, put the 
chocolate-stick in motion, and serve up when the foam 
rises. (Fr.) 

Chocolate with Water or Milk. — Take as many tablets 
of chocolate as you wish to have cupfuls; break the tablets 
in pieces ; add a little water, or milk (or terralac) ; melt over 



266 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the fire, and crush with a spoon; when no more lumps are 
left, add as many cupfuls of water, or milk, as there were 
tablets. Let simmer a quarter of an hour; serve up. (Fr.) 

CHESTNUTS. 

Boiled Chestnuts. — Take out the bad chestnuts ; put the 
good ones into a sauce-pan with enough water to cover them 
completely, and, for a quart of chestnuts, one spoonful of salt ; 
boil 20 or 25 minutes ; serve up in the liquor; for if they should 
be dry, it would be difficult to remove their inner skin. (Fr.) 

Roasted Chestnuts. — Take out the bad chestnuts; open 
a crevice or notch in the good ones, to prevent their exploding 
when heated; put them into a frying pan perforated with 
small holes ; stir often ; make sure the cooking is complete ; 
serve up in a napkin folded in lozenge-shape. It takes about 
20 minutes of roasting. (Fr.) Of course, a regular peanut- 
roasting apparatus would be still better and more convenient 
for the roasting. 

Stewed Chestnuts. — Roast 40 or 50 chestnuts; remove 
the inner skin; put them into a sauce-pan with a quarter- 
pound of sugar, a cupful of water and a small piece of vanilla; 
simmer 25 or 30 minutes; at first over a small fire, and then 
with a quicker fire, so that the syrup may get a little con- 
sistency; pour into a preserve dish. (Fr.) 

Glazed Chestnuts. — Boil some chestnuts in water, until 
they are done; peel them carefully, so as not to crush them 
in your hands; as they are peeled, put them into cold water, 
to make them a little firmer; half an hour afterward, put into 
another vessel some sugar syrup boiled down to the consis- 
tency of glue ; put into it the chestnuts (with the greatest care 
lest they break). The next day take the chestnuts out of the 
syrup boil the syrup several bubbles, and pour it again upon 
the chestnuts; repeat the operation every 24 hours for four 
days, taking care the last time to give a little more boiling 
to the sugar. After that, you do the glazing, or icing, as you 
please; dipping the chestnuts into an excessively thick syrup, 
and letting them dry by the stove. (Fr.) 

Mashed Chestnut Soup. — For six persons: Take thirty 
European chestnuts of medium size, and remove the outer 



nuts. 267 

shell; put them into a frying-pan over a hot fire, in order 
easily to peel off the inner skin; let them cook with a small 
fire in a quart of water. Mash in a strainer, adding enough 
water to make in all a quart of mash. Slightly brown some 
butter a little larger than an egg; add the chestnut mash and 
a little salt; simmer 20 minutes. Stirring now and then, to 
keep the mash from sticking to the bottom; serve up with 
fried breadbits. (Fr.) 

Chestnut-Flour Puff. — For ten or twelve persons: 
Little by little mix two good spoonfuls of chestnut-flour with 
a quart of milk (or terralac) ; and half a pound of sugar, and 
a little vanilla, if you like this flavor; cook four or five minutes, 
stirring all the time; cool down. When the porridge is almost 
cold, add to it six egg-yolks, then the whites beaten to a very 
stiff froth ; mix the whole well, and pour into a deep dish 
slightly buttered. The dish should be only three quarters 
full ; and the mixing with the eggs should be quickly done, 
lest the whites fall. Put the porridge into the not too hot 
oven for 18 or 20 minutes. When it is well risen and of a 
fine color, sprinkle it with sugar, and serve it up at once, as 
puffs fall back very quickly. (Fr.) 

COCONUTS. 

Coconut Custard Pie. — Boil a quart of milk (or ter- 
ralac) ; take it from the fire; whip in gradually six eggs, al- 
ready beaten to a froth; when the mixture is nearly cold, 
flavor it with a teaspoonful of nutmeg and two teaspoonfuls 
of vanilla, or rosewater; add a pound of grated coconut; pour 
the whole into paste-shells. Bake twenty minutes. Do not 
boil the egg and milk together. If the custard be put quite 
raw into the pie-dishes, the coconut is apt to settle to the 
bottom. But the raw mixture may be put into cups, and 
baked, setting them in a pan of boiling water, stirring well 
once as they begin to warm. This is coconut cup-custard, and 
is much liked. (Harland.) 



268 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

CEREALS. 
OATS. 

Oats, unlike wheat and rye, contain no true gluten, and 
therefore cannot alone be made into a light, attractive loaf 
of bread, though when mixed with wheat flour it becomes ex- 
cellent and healthful bread. Oatmeal, if not tightly sealed in 
its packages, as sold, is apt in the warm summer season to be- 
come infested with small black winged insects (weevils), or 
even with white worms half an inch long. Naturally, the result 
would be a much diminished sale of the oatmeal during the 
summer. 

Oatmeal Water. — Mix raw oatmeal with water, stirring 
thoroughly, and allowing the coarser particles to settle. Some 
material is dissolved, and some fine particles undoubtedly re- 
main suspended in the somewhat milky-looking liquid. It is 
thought to be better than water for quenching the thirst of 
severely laboring workmen. (Woods & Snyder.) 

Oatmeal Gruel. — Mix three ounces of oatmeal with water 
to a paste, and add water until it is about as thick as rich 
cream; put it into a sauce-pan, add one quart of water; stir 
the gruel constantly, until it boils, and afterwards frequently; 
let it boil half an hour, and add salt to suit the taste; eat it 
with milk (or terralac), or alone, as desired. (Haskell.) See 
also Cornmeal Gruel, and Water Gruel (p. 323). 

Oatmeal Porridge. — -Let half a pint of oatmeal steep in 
about a pint of water over night. In the morning, boil it an 
hour or more, regardless of the twenty minutes prescribed on 
the package as enough. It can hardly be cooked too much. 
Add salt to the water, if you like. Eat with sugar and milk 
(or terralac) or butter (or a palatable oil) ; and slices of 
banana, or apple sauce, or other fruit jam or marmalade, 
mixed with it, go well. Or figs may be cooked in the porridge ; 
and a spiced steam pudding is sometimes made with the oat- 
meal. 

Oatmeal Bread. — Take one pint of boiling water, one 
tablespoonful of butter (or two of oil), two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar; melt them together, and thicken with two-thirds 
oatmeal and one-third fine wheat flour. When the mixture is 
bloodwarm, add half a cup of some home-brewed yeast (or 



CEREALS. 269 

a quarter cup of brewery yeast) and two well beaten eggs. 
Mould into small cakes, and bake on buttered tins; or make 
two loaves. (Beecher.) 

Oat Cake. — Mix good oatmeal with a little salt and warm 
water; allow half an ounce of German yeast to two pounds 
of meal; heat this batter (which should be of about the same 
consistency as for crumpets), till smooth, and bake on a hot 
bake-stone or iron plate (griddle) in the same way as 
crumpets, but not quite so quickly. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Sowens (in English Flummery). — Sowens (Scotch), a 
nutritious article of food made from the husks of the oat, by 
a process not unlike that by which common starch is made; 
called flummery in England. Flummery, a kind of food made 
of oatmeal steeped in water, until it has turned sour, which 
is then strained and boiled to a proper thickness, to be eaten 
with milk or other liquid. ("Webster's Dictionary"). One 
pound and a half of fine oatmeal; one tablespoonful of white 
sugar, and a little salt. Steep the oatmeal in cold water 2-1 
hours; then pour off the water; add the same quantity of fresh 
water, and let it stand the same length of time ; strain through 
a fine hair sieve; put the meal into a sauce-pan, adding the 
sugar and let it boil, till it becomes about the consistency of 
hasty pudding, stirring constantly. Pour it on a dish, and 
serve it up with milk or cream (or terralac), and sugar or 
molasses. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Scotch Sowens. — Mix two pounds and a half of coarse 
oatmeal with a pint of butter-milk and five pints of lukewarm 
water; cover it, and place it at a little distance from the fire; 
let it stand 36 hours; then pour off the liquid, and add more 
water, changing the water two succeeding days ; then put 
some of the meal into a hair sieve, adding plenty of water, 
and knocking the sieve with the hand, to make the finer par- 
ticles of the oatmeal pass through, leaving the coarser part. 
Again let it stand eight or ten hours ; pour off the water, and 
put the rest into a pan lined with earthenware, adding salt, 
and water enough to make it about as thick as oatmeal por- 
ridge ; stir it constantly while it is on the fire, and let it boil, 
till it becomes smooth. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 



270 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



BARLEY. 



Barley, like oats and maize, and unlike wheat and rye, 
contains no true gluten, and therefore does not make light 
bread. Its whole grain is, however, closely like rye in the 
proportions of its nutritious components. But pearl barley 
(that is, barley of which the outer or bran layer has been 
ground off) has about one-third less protein than the whole 
grain. It is often put into soups. 

Barley Water. — Take a couple of ounces of pearl bar- 
ley, wash it clean with cold water, put it into half a pint of 
boiling water, and let it boil five minutes ; pour off this water, 
and add to the barley two quarts of boiling water; boil it to 
one quart, and strain it. This is a simple barley water. To 
a quart of it, are frequently added two ounces of figs, sliced ; 
two ounces of stoned raisins ; half an ounce of liquorice, sliced 
and bruised; and a pint of water. Boil it down to a quart, 
and strain. (Kitchiner.) 

Barley Gruel. — Boil pearl barley until tender, reduce it 
to pulp, pass it through a sieve, add water until the con- 
sistency is right, boil fifteen minutes, and season to suit the 
taste. (Haskell.) 

Barley Broth. — Four ounces of Scotch barley; four 
ounces of onions ; four ounces of oatmeal, or Indian meal ; 
and two ounces of butter (or four tablespoonfuls of palatable 
oil). After washing the barley well, steep it in fresh water 
twelve hours ; set it on the fire in five quarts of water, adding 
the onions and a little salt, and boil gently an hour and a 
quarter. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan (or use the oil) ; 
stir into it the meal, till it becomes a paste; then add a little 
of the broth gradually, till the thickness is proper for mixing 
with the whole quantity; stir well together, till it boils, and 
mix with a little of the broth a dram (a sixteenth of an ounce) 
of celery or cress seed, or half a dram of each, and a quarter 
of a dram of cayenne pepper, all finely pounded; stir well 
in the broth; simmer it gently a quarter of an hour longer, 
and add a little more salt, if required. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Barley Griddle Cakes. — One teacup of boiled barley, 
one pint of sweet milk (or terralac), two eggs, a piece of 



CEREALS. 271 

butter as large as a hickory nut (or a tablespoonful of 
palatable oil), a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, flour enough 
to make the cakes into a batter, and half a teaspoonful of 
soda. (Haskell.) 

Barley Soup. — Three ounces of barley; one ounce and a 
half of stale bread-crumbs, one ounce and a half of butter 
(or three tablespoonfuls of palatable oil) ; a quarter of an 
ounce of chopped parsley; and a quarter of an ounce of salt. 
Wash the barley, and let it steep twelve hours in half a pint 
of water, to which a piece of soda as large as a pea has been 
added; pour off the water that is not absorbed; add the bread- 
crumbs, three quarts of boiling water, and the salt ; boil slowly 
in a well-tinned covered pan four or five hours, and add the 
parsley, butter (or oil), and white pepper, about half an hour 
before the soup is ready to be served up. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Barley and Pea Soup. — Half a pound of pearl barley; 
one pint of dried green peas ; one large onion ; and one ounce 
of butter (or two tablespoonfuls of palatable oil). Wash the 
barley and peas ; steep them in fresh water twelve hours ; put 
them in a pan with six quarts of boiling water; add the onion, 
pepper and salt; boil the whole gently four or five hours, 
till the barley and peas are quite soft; pass the soup through 
a wire sieve, or fine colander ; return it to the pan, and when 
it boils, stir in the butter (or oil), till well mixed. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Pearl Barley Pudding without Milk or Eggs. — A 
quarter of a pound of pearl barley ; half a pound of apples ; 
two ounces of sugar; and half a teaspoonful of salt. Pick 
and wash the barley, and let it steep in water twelve hours; 
put it into a pan with three pints of water, adding the salt; 
let it boil two hours; pour it into a buttered pie-dish; put in 
the apples, cut as for a pie; add the sugar; and bake it in a 
moderately hot oven one hour ; and serve it up with sugar and 
cream. ("Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Moulded Barley. — Six ounces of pearl barley; seven 
cupfuls of water; and six ounces of sugar. Steep the barley 
twelve hours ; drain it, and pour the water, boiling, upon it ; 
stew quickly in the oven in an earthen jar, covered, till per- 
fectly soft, and till all the water is absorbed ; when it is about 



272 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

half enough done, add the sugar and six drops of essence of 
lemon; pour it into a mould, and let it stand to set. When 
boiled quickly, the above quantity requires two hours and a 
half, and is of a much better color than when it is longer in 
preparation. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 



CEREALS. 273 

WHEAT. 

WHEAT, WHEATEN GRITS, FL&UR, PASTES. 

Frumenty. — Boil some wheat; when it is soft, pour off 
the water, and keep the wheat for use as it is wanted. It is 
put into milk (or terralac), to give an agreeable thickness; 
then, sugar and nutmeg are added. (Hartshorn.) 

Frumenty. — Take some good white wheat; just wet it a 
little; put it into a coarse bag, and beat it with a stick, till 
the external husk is loose enough to be rubbed off; then wash 
it well, changing the water five or six times ; till perfectly 
free from loose bran; then put it into a stew-pan, with plenty 
of water; cover, and set it in the oven, till the wheat is quite 
soft and when it is cold, it will be quite a jelly. When it is 
required for use, put as much of the wheat with milk into a 
pan, as will make it of about the consistency of rice milk, 
stirring constantly, with a wooden slice or spoon, and mash- 
ing the wheat, it being liable to burn; when it is near boiling, 
stir a small portion of flour, mixed till smooth with a little 
milk, adding sugar, grated nutmeg, and a little salt, and when 
it boils, it will be ready. Frumenty may be thickened with 
the yolks of eggs, beaten with a little milk, instead of flour; 
dried currants, or Sultana raisins, picked and washed, may 
also be added. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Cracked-Wheat (or Wheaten Grits) Soup. — For six 
persons: three pints of broth, five spoonfuls of cracked wheat 
(or wheaten grits). When the broth boils with big bubbles, 
put the cracked-wheat into it, showering it in with one hand, 
while stirring it with the other, so as to mix it well and pre- 
vent caking together. Simmer 25 to 30 minutes. (Fr.) 

Cracked-Wheat (or Wheaten Grits) Soup with Milk. 
— For six: Boil three pints of milk (or terralac). When it 
boils, put into it five spoonfuls of cracked wheat, sprinkle 
them in with one hand while stirring with the other, to aid in 
mixing, and to prevent lumps from forming; add a pinch of 
salt. Simmer 25 or 30 minutes. Serve up along with pow- 
dered sugar. (Fr.) 

Cracked Wheat Pudding. — Boil a quart of milk (or ter- 
ralac) ; and half a pound of cracked-wheat (or wheaten grits), 



274 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

making a thick porridge; let it cook a little; sweeten with a 
quarter-pound of sugar; flavor with orangeflower water, or 
with lemon-zest, or vanilla ; add four egg-yolks and two whites 
beaten to froth. Butter a mould or sauce-pan, sprinkling the 
coating of butter with very finely powdered rusk; pour the 
mixture in; finish cooking over a gentle fire, with the mould 
surrounded by ashes and with fire on the cover; serve up the 
pudding warm and of golden color. Instead of coating the 
mould with butter and rusk powder, you can coat it with 
caramel, as described for rice pudding (p. 334). A sauce may 
also be added, such as described for snowball custard (p. 101). 
At the moment of putting the eggs into the pudding, raisins 
and preserved fruits may be added. Also a little rum can be 
put in ; but then there is no need of any other flavoring, vanilla 
or orangeflower water. Malaga raisins should be stoned. The 
preserved fruits — cedrat, citron, angelica — should be cut into 
small pieces. (Fr.) 

Flour Gruel. — Tie a teacupful of flour in a strong cloth, 
and boil it six hours ; when it is done, it will be a hard cake 
of flour; dry it, and grate a large teaspoonful of it, mix it to 
a paste with cold water, and stir it in boiled milk (or terralac), 
let the gruel boil gently ten minutes and add salt. (Haskell.) 

Wheat Flour Soup. — For six persons: Three spoonfuls 
of flour, three pints of milk (or terralac). Moisten the flour 
with the milk, pouring the milk in little by little, so as to 
avoid the forming of lumps ; add a pinch of salt. Put over 
the fire, and cook for about fifteen minutes, stirring all the 
time with a wooden spoon, especially at the bottom of the 
sauce-pan. If the soup is too thick, add a little milk. When 
it is cooked, it ought to have consistency enough to leave a 
slight white coating on the spoon. Serve up with powdered 
sugar. (Fr.) 

Overset Porridge. — Wet six spoonfuls of flour, little by 
little with a quart of milk (or terralac) cook them over a 
gentle fire, stirring all the time. When the porridge has be- 
come very thick, add a quarter pound of butter (or palatable 
oil) and half a teaspoonful of salt; continue to cook with a 
small fire, constantly stirring; at the end of some minutes, 
remove from the fire, and let cool; thicken with three egg- 
yolks; add a little lemon-zest chopped fine, or a tablespoonful 
of orangeflower water, and the whites of the three eggs beaten 



WHEAT. 275 

to froth. Butter a sauce-pan, or a mould; put a round piece 
of paper at the bottom, and a strip all around; pour in the 
porridge cooked and prepared as just described. The mould 
should be only three quarters filled. Cook three quarters of 
an hour in the oven, or in the Dutch oven ; overset into a dish ; 
serve up with or without the paper. (Fr.) 

Macaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Italian Pastes and 
the Like are made by mixing hard durum, or strong (gluten- 
rich) wheat flour and hot water into a stiff paste, which is 
then moulded and dried and given a name according to the 
form. The mode of cooking is essentially the same for all 
the forms. 

Good macaroni is of a fine pale yellow color. Macaroni 
should be put into water that is boiling strongly. As it swells 
to at least double its bulk, and as it needs 25 or 30 minutes to 
cook well, enough water should be put in, not to boil away 
too much; for half a pound of macaroni, it needs five pints of 
water; for a pound seven pints. (Fr.) 

Macaroni and Cheese, No. 1. — Cook a cupful of macaroni 
broken into small pieces in two quarts of boiling salted water; 
drain in a strainer; pour cold water over it, to prevent the 
pieces from sticking together. Make a cheese sauce with a 
quarter to half a pound of cheese, seasoning with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and a speck of cayenne pepper. Put the sauce 
and macaroni in alternate layers in a buttered baking dish, 
cover with buttered bread-crumbs, and heat in the oven, until 
the crumbs are brown. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Macaroni and Cheese, No. 2. — Make a rich cheese sauce, 
and heat the boiled macaroni in it. The mixture is usually 
covered with buttered crumbs, and browned in the oven. But 
it is unnecessary to have a hot oven, as the sauce and macaroni 
may be simply reheated, without the browning, on the top of 
the stove. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Macaroni with Cheese and Tomato Sauce. — Boiled 
macaroni may be heated in tomato sauce, and sprinkled with 
grated cheese just before serving up. (Langworthy and 
Hunt.) 

Italian Macaroni and Cheese. — Cook a cupful of 
macaroni broken into small pieces with half an onion and two 
cloves in two quarts of boiling salted water; drain; remove 



276 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the onion and cloves; reheat in tomato sauce; serve up with 
grated cheese. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 

Macaroni in Italian Fashion. — For six, break half a 
pound of macaroni into pieces as long as your finger, and put 
it into the water boiling with great bubbles ; then cook with 
small bubbles 25 or 30 minutes. When it is cooked enough — 
which you ascertain by taking a piece in your fingers — put in 
a little salt; but carefully, for the cheese you use may be very 
salty, and then the macaroni might become too salty; let it 
bubble once or twice more; take it from the fire, and drain it. 
Put it on the fire again with a piece of butter as large as an 
egg, some salt and pepper; turn it on the fire, until the butter 
is melted ; then sprinkle upon it with one hand, while you stir 
continually with the other, from a quarter to half a pound 
of grated cheese (say, four-fifths Swiss and one-fifth Par- 
mesan). When it is well thickened and well mixed and well 
seasoned, turn it into a dish, and serve it up. If the butter 
turns to oil, add half a quarter of a cupful of water, stir on 
the fire a minute, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Browned Macaroni. — Cook the macaroni in Italian 
fashion; put it into a dish; level the top; sprinkle it with 
part of the grated cheese, which you have reserved for the 
purpose; brown it in the oven, or before a hot fire. (Fr.) 

Macaroni Eggless Omelet. — One pound of bread-crumbs; 
half a pound of onions; a quarter of a pound of macaroni; 
three ounces of chopped parsley; one tablespoonful of tapioca; 
two tablespoonfuls of salad oil ; and one teaspoonful of baking 
powder. Boil the macaroni in water, adding a little salt; or 
cook it in the oven with plenty of water, covered with a plate, 
till tender, but not soft; drain the water from it, and when it 
is cool, cut it in small pieces; boil the tapioca in a quarter 
of a pint of water five or six minutes; mix it with the onions, 
boiled a little and chopped, the bread-crumbs, parsley, and 
baking powder ; season with pepper and salt. Put the oil in a 
dish, then a layer of the mixture and the macaroni alternately, 
having three layers of the mixture and two of macaroni; bake 
in a moderately hot oven, and turn it over on a hot flat dish. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Macaroni Pie. — Line a dish, or sauce-pan, with pie-paste 
rolled as thin as half the thickness of your finger; put into it 



WHEAT. 277 

some macaroni cooked in Italian fashion; and cover it with 
like paste ; bake in an oven not too hot, for about half an hour ; 
remove from the mould, and serve up. (Fr.) 

Vermicelli, or Italian Paste Soup. — Break up the 
vermicelli a little. For six persons, three pints of broth, at 
least, and five spoonfuls of vermicelli, or of Italian pastes. 
Put the broth on the fire; when it boils with big bubbles, 
throw into it the vermicelli, or Italian paste ; simmer fifteen 
or twenty minutes, with the sauce-pan three quarters covered; 
taste, to see if it is salted enough ; skim the froth, if any, from 
the surface; and serve up, with, if you like, a plate of grated 
Swiss or Parmesan cheese. (Fr.) 

Lazane Soup. — For lazanes, which are a ribbon-shaped 
Italian paste, the method is the same as for vermicelli; only, 
it takes fully half an hour to cook them, and consequently 
needs a little more broth. Serve up with a plate of cheese, if 
you like. (Fr.) 

Vermicelli, or Italian Paste, Soup with Milk. — Break 
up the vermicelli a little. For six persons: Three pints of 
milk (or terralac), five spoonfuls of vermicelli; five spoonfuls 
of Italian pastes. When the milk boils, put into it either the 
vermicelli, or any Italian paste, with a pinch of salt. Sim- 
mer; if it is vermicelli, 15 or 20 minutes; if it is an Italian 
paste, 20 or 25 minutes. Serve up along with powdered 
sugar. (Fr.) 

Macaroni Soup. — For six persons, have a quarter pound 
of macaroni, three pints of broth. Boil in a sauce-pan three 
pints of water. When it boils well, put into it the macaroni, 
broken in pieces of the length of your finger; at the end of 
half an hour of cooking, add a little salt. When the macaroni 
is almost done (it needs 40 or 45 minutes), put it to drain 
in a strainer. Boil the broth; when it boils well, put the 
macaroni into it ; boil it ten minutes ; and serve up, along 
with grated cheese, Swiss or Parmesan, on a separate plate. 
It is better to boil the macaroni in water first, because it would 
render the broth turbid, and, besides, it would take much more 
broth. (Fr.) 

Noodle Soup. — Noodles are small strips of paste; they 
can replace macaroni, even advantageously, either in soup or 
in any other preparation. To make them: take half a pound 



278 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of flour, make a hole in the middle, put in three eggs, both 
yolks and whites, butter as large as an English walnut, half 
a teaspoonful of fine salt, a little pepper, a very little nut- 
meg, a quarter of a cupful of water. Mix the whole so as to 
make a very smooth and rather firm dough or paste. Roll out 
the dough on a table (that you have floured to prevent stick- 
ing), until the paste is no thicker than a dollar; cut it into 
little strips of the length and half the breadth of your finger. 
Cook them six minutes in strongly boiling water. Drain well, 
pour upon them three pints of boiling broth, and serve up, 
with grated cheese, Swiss or Parmesan, on a separate 
plate. (Fr.) 

Quenefe Soup (Russian). — For six pexsons, three pints 
of broth. Take a quarter o a pound of flour; make a hole 
in the middle ; put into it six yolks of eggs and only two whites, 
half a cupful of water, butter as large as an English walnut, 
a teaspoonful of fine salt and a good pinch of pepper; mix 
the whole well together. Boil the broth; when it is boiling 
well, let the paste that you have prepared drop into it in 
small quantities. For that purpose, fill a teaspoon with paste, 
and with the finger push it into the liquid, thereby forming a 
round or oval ball. Cook half an hour and serve up. (Fr.) 

BREAD. 

Unleavened Bread. — The East Indian chuppatee (a thin 
wafer-like cake some ten inches broad, formed of coarse wheat 
flour, or meal, and water, gently clapped flat and thin between 
the two outspread hands, and then baked, or roasted crisp be- 
fore a fire) and the Passover bread of the Jews, pilot bread, 
or ship's biscuit, and common hard biscuit, or crackers, are a 
few of the numerous varieties of unleavened bread, simple 
mixtures of wheat flour and water, baked dry and hard. Some- 
times milk (or terralac), butter, lard, spices or dried fruits 
are mixed with the flour and water. (H. W. Atwater.) 

Maryland or Beaten Biscuit is unleavened bread made 
with a rather stiff dough of flour and water, or milk (or ter- 
ralac), and shortening (say, perhaps a quarter-pound of but- 
ter [or palatable oil] to a quart of flour) and salt, kneaded or 
pounded with a wooden mallet or hammer, and folded mean- 
while over and over many times, until it is light and puffy, 



WHEAT. 279 

and ready to be shaped into biscuits and baked. The folding 
and pounding encloses small quantities of air in numberless 
little blisters, which in baking expand and make the biscuit 
light and porous. (H. W. Atwater.) 

Raised Bread. — Light or raised bread is commonly made 
with wheat flour and Avater (or milk, or terralac), mixed with 
yeast. The yeast, a minute plant that grows rapidly through 
a lukewarm mixture of that kind (though killed by 158 de- 
grees Fahrenheit), produces alcohol and carbonic acid gas 
(a process called alcoholic fermentation), and swells up the 
dough with small bubbles and coarse pores, that are left 
permanent by the heat of baking, and make the bread more 
palatable, and more easy to be attacked by the digestive 
liquids. Baker's Bread is made in two principal methods: 
First, with " straight, or offhand, dough," the materials are 
all mixed at once, with a long kneading, then set in a warm 
place (77 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit), to rise, for ten hours or 
more before baking; Second, with "sponge dough," the yeast 
works eight or ten hours in the sponge, a portion of the flour 
mixed to a batter with more water than there is in offhand 
dough, and the sponge is afterwards mixed by thorough knead- 
ing with the other materials, and the whole is then left to 
rise a few hours before baking. The straight dough requires 
more yeast and stronger, gluten-richer, flour; and the bread is 
usually coarse in texture with a raw, grainy taste, and the 
kneading is a long one in stiff dough. For the sponge, strong 
flour is commonly used, and a little salt added to prevent lactic 
fermentation, and a weaker flour may be used in the second 
mixture, giving a mild sweet flavor; but there are the two 
short kneadings in soft dough; which, however, rises evenly 
and well, and the bread keeps well. Home Made Bread 
is made in many ways, but the two most common ones are: 
First, the quick-rising method, in which a stiff dough is made 
of the flour, water and much yeast, and is allowed to rise 
to double its bulk, is then again thoroughly kneaded, allowed 
to rise again, and then baked, the rising taking in all about 
two hours and a half, and the baking being finished in four 
or five hours after the rising begins; Second, the slow-rising 
method, in which a batter (" sponge ") is made of the flour, 
water and less yeast, and is allowed to rise during ten or 
fifteen hours, say, overnight, at perhaps 70 degrees Fahren- 



280 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

heit; then more flour is added, and the dough kneaded until 
smooth, and after rising again is baked. Plainly, in any case, 
the yeast is, either by stirring the batter, or by kneading the 
dough to be mixed as evenly and thoroughly as possible 
throughout the flour. Flour — Flour should be white with 
a faint yellow tinge ; if pressed in the hand, r.hould fall loosely 
apart, not forming lumps from too much moisture; if rubbed 
between the fingers should not feel too smooth and powdery, 
but should let its individual particles be vaguely distinguished ; 
between the teeth, it should crunch a little; it should be sweet 
and nutty in taste, and not the least acid or musty. Flour 
rich in gluten is more tenacious, or strong, and will bear more 
yeast ; the bubbles in weaker flour would burst, and make large 
irregular cavities. Yeast — The yeast (say half a pint for 
four quarts of flour of the first rising, or sponge) should be 
fresh and strong with a pungent smell, not sour. If old and 
weak, more of it is needed; but if too much is put in, the 
bread is apt to be disagreeably bitter, and to have a yeasty 
taste, and to be heavy and soggy from the bursting of the 
bubbles and escape of gas. The compressed and dry yeasts 
sold ready-made are, if carefully made, more uniform in 
strength and purity than liquid yeast (one cake is about equal 
to half a pint of the best homemade liquid yeast) ; ordinary 
brewers' yeasts are apt to be full of bacteria, or germs, that 
set up lactic, butyric or other fermentations in the bread, and 
give it a disagreeable taste and odor, and are, besides, too 
susceptible to weather changes to be relied on. But, usually, 
a few of the extraneous germs are left in all yeast, for the 
slight acid taste they give the bread is liked. The yeast 
germs are so widespread, even in the atmosphere, that they 
soon start alcoholic fermentation in a dish of malt extract 
simply exposed to the air. Leaven — This "wild yeast," 
set in dough, would spread through it, and a portion reserved 
from the baking would serve as leaven for a subsequent batch ; 
and such is supposed to have been the origin of the ancient 
leaven, and of the leaven still commonly used in France. 
There, a little dough ready for baking is saved, and mixed 
with an equal amount of flour and water, and allowed to stand 
four or five hours. The operation is repeated three or four 
times before mixing with the dough for bread, and so the 
yeast acts but a short time on each lot of flour, and, before be- 
coming exhausted and letting other fermentations begin, re- 



WHEAT. 281 

ceives fresh yeast-food, and produces many yeast cells, against 
comparatively few lactic and butyric germs. But even then, 
leavened bread is more acid than yeast bread. The leaven is 
about one-third of the entire dough; but more in winter, less 
in summer, as the yeast grows less quickly in cold weather. 
Leavened bread has large holes, because germs in the leaven 
gives rise to a ferment (called diastase) and acids which tend 
to soften the gluten. Water — The water should be luke- 
warm, and may be about one-third as much in bulk as the 
flour, but varies with the strength of the flour. There should 
be enough to make the dough incline rather to softness, for 
thorough mixing. But too much for the strength of the flour 
may make the bread heavy, or soggy. Salt — Salt may be 
added toward the end of the mixing, say, a teaspoonful to a 
quart of the flour; not for the flavor, but because the salt 
checks lactic and butyric fermentations that are apt to follow 
the alcoholic one, and that tend to make the bread sour, or 
even (with butyric acid) putrid. Kneading — Thorough 
kneading of the dough is of the utmost importance, so that 
the yeast may be uniformly distributed throughout. For 
home bread, the kneading is usually done with the clenched 
fists, vigorously pushing the knuckles and ball of the hand 
into the dough with the full strength of the arm and repeatedly 
turning, folding and pressing the dough for twenty minutes 
or half an hour, first in the pan, and then on the flour-bestrewn 
board, or table, until no flour is needed to prevent sticking to 
the board or hand. Insufficient kneading may make the bread 
heavy; too much may, by uniting small cavities, make it full 
of large irregular holes. The utmost and, if possible, 
microscopic cleanliness should be maintained in the kneading, 
as in every other part of the bread making; for the last fifty 
years have taught us much of the serious harm that may fol- 
low from the presence of even invisible germs, that are es- 
pecially apt to accompany every kind of dirt, however minute, 
their favorite home and multiplying ground. The perspira- 
tion that may fall during the strenuous exertion of hand- 
kneading large quantities of dough, as in bakeries, should be 
avoided by using, instead, mechanical appliances. It is, to 
say the least, not appetizing to think of the French and Ger- 
man bakers' method of kneeding bread with the feet, however 
scrupulously conscientious and thoroughly refined the work- 
men may be supposed to be in considerate preliminary bath- 



282 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

ing. Nowadays, even for household use, small machines are 
conveniently and altogether satisfactorily used for kneading 
the dough. In some large bakeries, it is claimed, the flour and 
dough are not touched by hand in any part of the process 
of bread making, and the loaves are delivered wrapped in 
paraffine paper. Rising — If the bread rises too long, the 
yeast consumes the flour, and causes the dough to fall, and 
become sour; which can be somewhat remedied by working 
into it soda dissolved in water, about half a teaspoonful for 
each quart of flour. Baking — The dough once fully pre- 
pared, is put into a tin or iron pan that has been greased 
with butter. The baking is then done in an oven hot enough 
to brown, but not blacken, flour thrown on its floor, and to 
allow of holding the bare hand inside for twenty minutes, at, 
say, about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. It is best to use a high- 
temperature thermometer, a pyrometer. The heat should not 
be too great at first, lest the crust should become thick and 
dark, and be perhaps lifted up by the expanding gas below, 
before the inner part of the loaf is done. To prevent too 
rapid formation of the crust, bakers often moisten the tops 
of the loaves with water before putting into the oven, or pass 
steam over them while baking. The top of the loaf in Vienna 
bread becomes glazed and shiny from a gum (called dextrin, 
resembling gum arabic), formed from the starch by the hot 
steam. In a stove-oven the crust-hardening, if appearing too 
rapid, may be delayed by putting a sheet of paper over the 
loaf. Sometimes, the heat of the oven is gradually increased 
during the baking, and in some large ovens one end is made 
hotter than the other, and the loaves are mechanically moved 
forward. Small biscuits or rolls^soon becoming well done to 
the centre, can stand a much hotter oven, or part of an oven, 
and a quicker baking than large loaves. The baking takes 
perhaps half an hour for small rolls, and an hour or an hour 
and a quarter for pound loaves. Cooling. — The bread on 
removal from the oven, should be taken at once from the pans, 
and placed on slats, or sieves, or leaned up sidewise, not laid 
flat on the table, until thoroughly cooled ; it is best not to wrap 
it in cloths, which shut up the steam in the loaf, make it damp 
and clammy, and subject to mould. Keeping — Of course 
cleanliness in handling and keeping the completed bread 
should be as great as in making it. It should not be exposed 
to dust and dirt from the street or handled with dirty hands, 



WHEAT. 283 

for example, by a not too scrupulous or circumspect and con- 
siderate driver fresh from the stable, or from handling his 
horse, or dirty reins, or other unclean things. For in such 
wars, numerous disease germs may readily find their way into 
the* mouth of the bread-eater ; even though the flavor may not 
be perceptibly spoiled. In the home, bread should be kept 
in a dry, airtight box, a protection against mould germs. 
Home-made and Baker's Bread — The choice between mak- 
ing bread at home and buying baker's bread has some ad- 
vantages on each side. The large scale of bakers' work en- 
courages a careful uniformity of method and of the propor- 
tions of ingredients according to their thoroughly ascertained 
quality, and enables the use of various beneficial appliances, 
such as kneading machines that do not require handling the 
dough with the danger of harmful, or even disease-bringing, 
germs ; and such as the automatic regulation of the temperature 
of the oven, or part of the oven, and the movement of the 
bread through the oven. Some of those mechanical appliances, 
however, have now been successfully adapted to household use. 
Bread making at home, furthermore, makes it possible to be 
more perfectly sure of the quality of the materials used, with- 
out depending on an imperfect knowledge of the baker's integ- 
rity; and to be sure of the strict cleanliness of the work, 
without having to trust to the scrupulous carefulness of un- 
cultivated workmen ; and to indulge one's own preference more 
completely as to the kind of bread. The retail price of bakers' 
bread, though very variable in different places, appears to be, 
in general, about thirteen-sixths of the cost of its ingredients, 
or, sav, $216.50 for bread of which the material cost $100. 
(H. W. Atwater.) 

Home-made Hop Yeast. — Pare and slice five large pota- 
toes, and boil them in one quart of water with a large handful 
of common hops tied in a muslin bag. When the potatoes are 
soft, press them through a colander, and add a small cup of 
white sugar, a teaspoonful of ginger, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
and (when the mixture is only blood-waim) two teacups of 
common yeast, or half as much of distillery yeast. The salt 
and ginger help to preserve the yeast. It will keep good two 
or three weeks. Do not boil in iron, or use an iron spoon, 
as it colors the yeast. Keep the yeast in a freshly scalded 
stone, or earthenware, jar, with a plate fitting well to the 



284 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

rim. A jug is less easy to fill and to cleanse. The rule for 
quantity is, one tablespoonful of brewers' or distillery yeast 
to every quart of flour; or twice as much home-made yeast. 
Potato Yeast — is made by the same rule, omitting the hops. 
It can be used in large quantities without giving a bitter taste ; 
and so raises the bread sooner. But it has to be renewed much 
quicker than hop yeast, and the bread loses the flavor of hop 
yeast. Hard Yeast — is made with home-brewed yeast (not 
brewers' or distillery yeast) thickened with Indian meal and 
fine wheat flour in equal parts, and then made into cakes an 
inch thick and three inches by two in size, dried in the wind, 
but not in the sun. Keep them tied in a bag in a dry, cool 
place, where they will not freeze. One cake soaked in a pint 
of warm (not hot) water is enough for four quarts of flour. 
It is well to work mashed potatoes into this yeast, and let it 
rise well before using it; it makes the best bread. (Beecher.) 
In making as just described, a pint of flour may be added to 
the potatoes. The yeast cakes, if kept dry, will last months. 
If hops cannot be had, use peach leaves, though fresh hops 
are the best. (Haskell.) 

Salt-Rising, or Milk Yeast. — When there is no yeast to 
start with, mix a quart of warm new milk, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a tablespoonful of flour (or, instead of flour, enough 
cornmeal to mix to a stiff batter). Leave at blood heat until 
the batter is sour (say, overnight). It has become yeast by 
propagating the " wild yeast " germs that have dropped into 
it from the atmosphere; but is only half as strong as common 
yeast, requiring, therefore, a double quantity to be used. Bread 
made with it is baked in a moderate oven, and is light, porous, 
wholesome, and palatable, but is said not to keep so well as 
bread made with hop yeast (owing probably to lactic and 
butyric fermentation which the salt is intended to check). In- 
stead of beginning with the milk, a pint of very warm water 
may be used; and, again, instead of flour or cornmeal, bran 
enough stirred in for a spoon to stand upright. (H. W. At- 
water, Beecher, Haskell and others.) 

Substitutes for Yeast. — Instead of making the bread 
light with carbonic acid gas produced by yeast, the gas is some- 
times made with a baking powder evenly disseminated through 
the dough. The powder is commonly a mixture of carbonate, 
or bicarbonate, of soda and cream of tartar, sour milk, or but- 



WHEAT. 285 

termilk, or hydrochloric acid, or phosphate of lime, or some- 
times, alum ; or instead of the soda, saleratus (that is, bicar- 
bonate of potash) is sometimes used. There are numerous 
baking powders made from various chemicals. In the United 
States Army, self-raising flour is used ready-mixed with a 
baking powder. When water is added in making, the re- 
action of the baking powders produces carbonic acid in the 
dough. Such yeast substitutes, unless carefully prepared, 
may be inefficient, or harmful; they are easily adulterated, 
bread made with them is comparatively tasteless, without the 
flavor and aroma that good yeast gives. If the soda and cream 
of tartar are mixed by the cook, the quantity is often exces- 
sive, giving a bad taste and smell, and injuring the stomach. 
The soda and the tartaric acid of the cream of tartar form in 
the bread tartrate of soda, which is said to be a diuretic 
aperient, and is probably harmful in the long run ; the hydro- 
chloric acid is apt to be impure, and to contain even arsenic; 
the alum (which is also used by bakers in yeast-raised bread 
to keep it white, with inferior flour, and to increase the amount 
of water retained) is unwholesome to the stomach. Aerated 
bread popular in London, is made by Dr. Dauglish's process, 
invented in 1856, with water charged with carbonic acid gas, 
and is mixed with the flour in a machine. (H. W. Atwater 
and others.) 

Graham Bread. — The graham flour used should be from 
wheat of the best quality, either run through a smut-mill, or 
washed and dried before grinding. The flour should be rather 
coarser than common flour; and not bolted. It takes more 
wetting than fine flour. For every loaf allow three table- 
spoonfuls of molasses, one quart of wetting (water or milk or 
terralac), a teaspoonful of salt, and, say, a tablespoonful of 
good brewer's yeast, or twice as much of homemade yeast. 
Mix the yeast, molasses and salt in the wetting; add half a 
teaspoonful of soda, and mix in as much coarse flour as can 
possibly be stirred in with a spoon. Then knead the bread 
briskly, until it cleaves from the hand. If made with brewers' 
yeast, put the loaves in the pan, and pat it in place and shape. 
If made with homemade yeast, sponge the bread, as in direc- 
tions for sponging bread; and add the molasses and other 
wetting after the sponge rises. Knead until the dough cleaves 
from the hands. Set it in a warm place, until it rises; when 



286 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

it is light, knead it again, as before, and put it in the pans 
to rise. Add no flour after the first mixing; the dough will 
not be stiff enough to form into loaves ; shape the loaves after 
they are in the pan with the hand. (Haskell.) 

Fancy Leavened Breads. — Most like the ordinary white 
bread are of course, the fancy white ones, Vienna and French 
rolls, milk breads, and the like. They usually differ chiefly 
in the use of milk, sugar, butter, and the like, in the dough. 
Entire wheat, graham, rye, barley, or oatmeal flours are made 
into bread in essentially the same way, and vary in texture 
and nutritive value according to their original composition. 
Soda, cream of tartar, or baking-powder biscuit, short-cakes 
and the like, are intrinsically the same thing as ordinary white 
bread, except that the baking powder, or its substitute, does 
the work of yeast. Such breads do not require to be kneaded, 
or set to rise, and bake very quickly; hence, they are very 
convenient when yeast is unobtainable, or time is short. They 
never become so light and porous as yeast-made bread, how- 
ever, and dry very quickly. (H. W. Atwater.) 

Simnel. — One pound of flour; a quarter of a pound of 
butter (or half a cupful of palatable oil) ; a quarter of a 
pound of white sugar ; one pound of dried currants ; two ounces 
of candied lemon; half a cupful of milk (or terralac) ; one 
egg; and a quarter of an ounce of baking powder. Mix the 
baking powder with the flour; rub in the butter (or oil) ; add 
the sugar, the currants, the candied lemon and the milk (or 
terralac), mixed with the egg, well beaten; mix all together 
and bake in a tin mould, in a moderately hot oven. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Soda Biscuit. — Sift one teaspoonful of soda and two of 
cream of tartar with one quart of flour into the bread pan. 
Add two ounces of butter cut in fine bits, or four spoonfuls 
of oil. Mix thoroughly and quickly, without rubbing the but- 
ter in. Add a pint of sweet milk (or terralac, or, instead of 
the milk, put in a little more butter, or oil, and a large pint 
of water) ; mix quickly ; roll out the soft dough half an inch 
thick; cut it with a small biscuit-cutter; and bake immediately 
in a brisk oven. (Haskell, Beecher.) 

Bread-Bits for Soup. — Cut slices of bread into the form 
of dice about as thick as your finger; fry them. Do not 



WHEAT. 287 

put them into the soup, until the moment of carrying it to the 
table; otherwise the bread-bits will swell, and become soft, 
and lose their delicacy. (Fr.) 

Little Trays of Bread. — Little trays are made of bread 
to hold small portions of culinary preparations, such as hot 
side-dishes. Cut some slices of bread of the thickness of two 
fingers, cut the slices in whatever shape you please, triangular, 
square, round and the like, but preferably not larger than 
half your hand, or even smaller. Hollow out these pieces to 
one half their thickness, in the shape of a tray with a border 
that is not too narrow. Fry them to a fine color in very hot 
butter or oil. (Fr.) 

Bread and Milk or Terralac. — If bread be crumbled 
into milk, and a little sugar added, the excess of protein and 
of fat in the milk or terralac make up for the slight, if any, 
deficiency of protein in the bread, and its greater deficiency 
of fat; and the sugar counterweighs the deficiency of carbohy- 
drates in the mixture of bread and milk, or terralac; so that 
the result is a well balanced food, just about the mean of all 
human diets. If the milk be first warmed to 140 degrees 
Fahrenheit, for twenty minutes (pasteurized), the germs, or 
bacteria, that might cause disease, are killed. If the germs 
were killed by fully boiling the milk, it would become less 
digestible, and have a less agreeable taste. (" Bread and milk 
ranks very high as a rational, palatable and economical dish." 
Woods & Snider.) 

French Panada. — Break a stale penny roll in pieces ; put 
it in a sauce-pan with just enough water to cover the bread; 
stir it well over the fire, allowing it to boil five minutes; then 
add half a teaspoonful of salt and one ounce of fresh butter 
(or two spoonfuls of oil); mix, and take from the fire; beat 
the yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk (or ter- 
ralac), or water, and pour it into the panada, stirring very 
quickly half a minute. Any other nice light bread would 
answer the purpose as well as the roll. Panada should be 
rather thicker than gruel, and may be made of milk, but water 
is preferable, being lighter and more digestible. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Brewis. — Cut some bread in thin slices (toasted if pre- 
ferred) into a basin; pour boiling water upon it, and cover it 



288 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

with a plate; let it stand a few minutes, and then stir in a 
piece of butter (or some palatable oil) and a little salt. Oat- 
cake toasted and cut in pieces is frequently used. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Rusk. — The rasped crust of bread, or bread dried and 
browned in the oven and reduced to powder serves for browned 
dishes and other culinary preparations. One of the simplest 
ways to prepare it is to rasp the upper crust of a loaf of 
bread. Also it can be made of pieces of bread dried in the 
oven. When they are well dried and of a fine light brown 
color throughout, but not scorched, crush them, or pound them 
in a mortar and sift them as fine as meal. The powder should 
not be too brown, for it would give a bitter taste. (Fr.) 
The heat has partly changed the starch of the wheat into 
dextrin (a gum resembling gum arabic), and has thereby 
facilitated digestion. Rusk eaten, instead of common bread, 
with milk (or terralac) is delicious. Muffins, or the sweeter 
Sally Lunn teacakes, or uncommonly sweet ones may be used 
in the same way. 

Sweetened Rusk or Homemade " Breakfast Food." — 
Small pieces of whole wheat, or graham bread dipped in a 
dilute mixture of glucose and malt, then dried in an oven and 
crushed, closely resemble some of the granular, specially pre- 
pared breakfast foods. Any stale bread may be dipped in 
a little molasses and water, dried from twelve to twenty-four 
hours in the warming oven of an ordinary range, then crushed, 
and served up like the granular brands of breakfast foods. 
Many tests have been carried on with such homemade break- 
fast foods, and they seem to be quite as appetizing as the 
preparations which they resemble, and which sell for 12.5 
or 15 cents a pound. (Woods & Snider.) 

Toast. — Cut stale bread into slices half an inch thick, 
and toast them quickly, first on one side, then on the other, 
before a hot fire of coals, or of flames; so as not to dry the 
interior of the slice, but give the surface a uniform delicate 
brown color, with care not to burn black any part of the slice, 
nor to smoke it. The bread thereby becomes crisp on the sur- 
faces and slightly changed in flavor, while the interior is yet 
moist; and should be eaten at once. If kept a short time, even 
though kept warm, it becomes tough, hard and comparatively 



unpalatable. The heat, here too, has converted some of the 
starch of the wheat into dextrin, aiding its digestion. 

Buttered Toast. — Procure a nice square loaf that has 
been baked one or two days previously, i.nd with a sharp 
knife cut the requisite number of slices, about a quarter of an 
inch in thickness ; place a slice of the bread on a toasting fork, 
about an inch from one of the sides; hold it a minute before 
the fire; then turn it, hold it before the fire another minute; 
by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot ; then begin to 
move it gradually till the whole surface has assumed a yel- 
lowish brown color; turn it again, toasting the other side in 
the same manner; then lay it upon a hot plate, spread rather 
less than an ounce of butter over it, and cut it into four or 
six pieces ; if three or four slices are required, cut each slice 
into pieces, as soon as buttered, and pile them lightly upon 
the hot plate on which they are to be served up, as often, in 
cutting through several slices with a bad knife, all the butter 
is squeezed out of the upper slice, and the lower one is found 
swimming in butter. Warming the bread gradually on both 
sides greatly improves the quality of the toast, and makes it 
much lighter. The butter should not be too hard, as pressing 
it upon the toast would make it heavy. Dry stale bread may 
be dipped in warm water, and toasted gradually before being 
buttered. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Dry Toast. — Toast the bread as for buttered toast, and 
place it in a toast-rack, or raised on a plate, one piece rest- 
ing against another ; and serve it up immediately, or it will 
become tough. Any kind of toast should not be made till just 
before it is wanted. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Toast Water. — Cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf about 
twice the thickness of ordinary toast; slowly toast it, until 
it be completely browned all over, and through and through, 
but not at all blackened or burnt ; pour into a pitcher as much 
boiling water as you wish to make into drink; put the toast 
into it, cover it, and let it steep until it is quite cold; the 
fresher it is, the better. If the boiling water be poured on 
the bread, it will break it, and make the drink less clear. To 
make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, and 
just cover it with boiling water; let it stand until cold, then 
fill up with cold water, and pour it through a fine sieve. It 



290 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

is a pleasant, excellent beverage, grateful to the stomach, re- 
freshing in the summer, and deserves a constant place by the 
bedside. (Dr. Kitchiner, Haskell.) Sugar, cream or milk 
(or terralac), may be added. (Beecher.) As toast water con- 
tains in liquid, highly digestible form some small amount of 
the well proportioned nourishment of bread, it is useful to 
convalescent invalids. In particular, the dextrin formed from 
the starch in the wheat flour by toasting would by solution 
enter into the toastwater. Japanese soy adds an agreeable 
flavor, as well as protein. 

Dip Toast. — Toast nice, freshly sliced bread over hot 
coals, dip it in boiling water quickly, and spread it with plenty 
of sweet butter. (Haskell.) 

Hot Water Toast. — Carefully and quickly toasted slices 
of stale bread, preferably with the crust trimmed off, may be 
dipped in a pint of nearly boiling water into which a cupful 
of butter (or of oil) and a little salt have been put. Serve 
up with the remaining water still hot in a sauce-boat. (Has- 
kell.) 

Molasses Toast. — Boil good molasses, strain it through a 
hair sieve or a thin cloth; let it boil five minutes slowly, with 
an ounce of butter (or two spoonfuls of oil) to a pint; if the 
toast is dry and hard, dip it quickly in hot water, and then in 
the molasses; if fresh, in the molasses only. (Haskell.) The 
molasses and butter (or oil) supply well the deficiencies of 
the bread, and make the dish a particularly well proportioned, 
delicious food. Toasting has also produced dextrin. 

Milk Toast. — Boil a pint of rich milk (or terralac), take 
it off and stir into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
(or a gill of palatable vegetable oil) mixed with a small table- 
spoonful of flour. In case of using terralac, add, if you like, 
a little salt, say, a quarter of a teaspoonful. Then let it again 
come to a boil. Have ready two deep plates, with half a dozen 
slices of toast in each. Pour the milk (or terralac) over them 
hot, and keep them covered, till they go to the table. (Leslie.) 
What was said of the merits of bread and milk, or bread and 
terralac, as a rational (that is, well proportioned) and 
palatable food applies also to milk toast, with the additional 
advantage of the conversion of some of the starch of the wheat 
flour into dextrin, by the toasting. 



Cream Toast is made in the same way, but with a little 
less butter, and with cream instead of milk; or, in case of using 
terralac, with a somewhat larger amount (say half as much 
again) of palatable vegetable oil. 

CAKES. 

Sally Lunn Tea-Cakes. — Beat three eggs well, add a 
pint of sweet, lukewarm milk, or terralac (or, instead of the 
milk, a fourth egg, with much lighter result), half a cupful of 
melted butter, a teaspoonful of salt and half a cupful of 
sugar (some say, less sugar, or none at all) ; stir in thoroughly 
a quart of flour; and beat in well a gill of the best fresh yeast. 
Let the whole rise as high as it will — say, two or three hours, 
or longer with weak yeast. Bake in a quick oven, and serve 
up. (Kitchiner and others.) 

Muffins. — Melt half a cupful of butter, stir it into a pint 
of sweet milk (or terralac), add three eggs beaten light, a 
quart of flour, a heaping tablespoonful of brewer's yeast, and 
a teaspoonful of salt. Let the batter rise in a warm place; 
butter the muflin rings ; set them on a buttered hot griddle ; 
pour the batter with a large spoon, or a ladle, into the rings 
and bake the muffins quickly to a light brown ; serve them up 
hot. (Haskell.) The ingredients, except the sugar, are evi- 
dently the same as in Sally Lunns. 

Crumpets also are of essentially the same composition, but 
sometimes have more butter, or oil, (say, double), and some- 
times one-half more eggs ; sometimes none at all ; and some- 
times sugar is put in the batter. 

Buns. — Add a pound of sugar to four pounds of sifted 
flour; make a hole in the middle and stir in a gill of good 
yeast, a pint of lukewarm milk (or terralac) ; with enough of 
the flour to make it as thick as cream; cover it over, and let 
it lie two hours; then melt to oil (but not hot) one pound of 
butter (or use palatable oil), and stir it into the other in- 
gredients, with enough warm milk (or terralac), to make it 
a soft paste; throw a little flour over it and let it lie an hour; 
with the hand mould the dough into buns about as large as 
a large egg ; lay them in rows full three inches apart in a but- 
tered platter; set them in a warm place for half an hour, or 
till they have risen to double their size; bake them in a hot 



292 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

oven to a good color; and, on drawing them from the oven, 
wash them over with a brush dipped in milk (or terralac). 
Cross Buns — To the mixture just described add one ounce 
and a half of ground allspice, cinnamon and mace, mixed; 
and when the buns are half risen, press them in the centre 
with the form of a cross, using a tin mould made for the pur- 
pose ; and proceed as above indicated. Seed Buns — Into 
two pounds of the plain bun dough above described mix one 
ounce of caraway seeds ; mould the dough into buns, and put 
each one into a buttered tart-pan ; set them to rise in a warm 
place ; and when they are risen enough, ice them with the white 
of an egg beaten to a froth, laying it on with a paste-brush ; 
put some powdered sugar on that, and dissolve it with water 
splashed from the brush; bake then in a warm oven about 
ten minutes. Plum Buns — To two pounds of the plain 
bun dough above described add half a pound of dried currants, 
a quarter-pound of candied orange-peal cut into small pieces, 
half a nutmeg grated, half an ounce of mixed spices, such as 
allspice, cinnamon and the like; mould them into buns; jag. 
them around the edge with a knife, and proceed as with the 
plain buns. (Kitchiner.) 

Bath Buns. — Rub together with the hand one pound of 
fine flour and half a pound of butter; beat six eggs, and add 
them to the flour, with a tablespoonful of good yeast; mix 
them all together, with about half a teacupful of milk (or 
terralac) ; set it in a warm place for an hour, then mix in 
six ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds ; mould 
them into buns with a tablespoon, on a clean baking-plate; 
throw six or eight caraway comfits on each and bake them 
in a hot oven about ten minutes. This quantity should make 
about eighteen buns. (Kitchiner.) 

American Buns. — Take three teacups of light dough from 
homemade yeast bread, mix into the dough three teaspoonfuls 
of melted butter (or palatable oil) ; a little salt, an ounce and 
a half of sugar, three well beaten eggs, and half a teaspoonful 
of dissolved and strained soda; mix all together and add flour 
to make the dough stiff enough to knead; after kneading it 
well, let it rise; when it is light, make the dough up in rather 
high cakes as large round as a dollar; pack them closely in 
the pan, and dredge lightly with flour to prevent their becom- 
ing one mass. Bake as soon as they are light, and when they 



WHEAT. 293 

are done, brush over the top with yolk of egg and sugar; do 
not separate them, until they are cold. (Haskell.) 

Pitcaithly Bannocks. — One pound of flour ; half a pound 
of butter (or a cupful of palatable oil) ; two ounces of al- 
monds ; two ounces of candied orange ; two ounces of caraway 
comfits ; and two ounces of powdered sugar. Dry the flour 
before the fire; then mix it with the almonds, blanched and 
thinly sliced, the candied orange cut in small shreds, and the 
caraway comfits; mix all well together with the butter, melted 
(or oil); form the bannock; lay it on a flat baking tin, and 
bake it in a rather slow oven. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Shrewsbury Cakes. — Half a pound of flour; six ounces 
of sifted loaf sugar; and five ounces of fresh butter (or ten 
tablespoonfuls of palatable oil). Soften the butter a little, 
pressing out the water; mix the flour and sugar together; work 
in the butter (or oil) with a wooden spoon, till well incor- 
porated; then add not quite two tablespoonfuls of water; mix 
well with the spoon, till it becomes a smooth stiff paste; roll 
it very thin, and cut the cakes round, or in any other form. 
If the paste does not roll smoothly, cover it, and set it in a 
cool place till the next day; then roll it thin; lay the cakes 
on baking tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Or, instead, 
begin with three quarters of a pound of flour, six ounces of 
butter (or twelve tablespoonfuls of palatable oil) ; eight ounces 
of powdered sugar, and one egg. Beat the butter to cream; 
add the sugar, then the egg, well beaten, and then the flour 
well dried; then proceed as already described. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Wafer Cakes, Waffles, Griddle or Flannel Cakes and 
Crullers or Wonders. — Wafer cakes, waffles (both these 
kinds fried between slightly greased, strongly heated irons), 
and griddle or flannel cakes (fried quickly on a thinly greased, 
very hot griddle), and crullers, or wonders (fried immersed 
in fat), appear to have mainly the same composition, with 
somewhat variable proportions of flour, milk, butter, sugar and 
eggs, according to taste. French Wafers — Put into an 
earthen dish half a pound of flour; make a hole in the middle; 
put into it a teaspoonful of salt, a spoonful of brandy, a 
spoonful of olive oil, three egg-yolks and two whites, two 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a spoonful of orangeflower water, 



294 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

or a little of the grated yellow rind of a lemon, and two good 
ounces of melted butter (or four spoonfuls of oil). Moisten 
the flour little by little with all that you have put into it, 
without disturbing the border or making any lumps ; add milk 
(or terralac) little by little, until the batter is like thick mush, 
add the third white of egg, beaten to froth. Heat the wafer- 
iron on both sides over live charcoal; grease the interior of 
the iron with a little butter in a bit of coarse muslin (or with 
oil) ; pour in a little of the batter ; close without squeezing 
tight; put one side after the other on the fire, one or two 
minutes, according to the heat of the fire; remove any of the 
batter that may have spilled outside the irons ; when the wafer 
is lightly browned, remove it, and sprinkle it with sugar. 
(Fr.) Wafer Cakes are essentially the same; only, no 
milk is put in. (Leslie.) A batter with like proportions of 
thick cream (instead of the milk), sugar and eggs, with the 
butter omitted, is prescribed for cream griddle cakes. 
(Beecher.) American Waffles are thicker than wafer 
cakes, and instead of depending on the beaten eggs, or whites, 
for lightness, have some yeast, or soda and an acid, for raising 
them. For example, a teaspoonful of soda and a pint of sour 
cream are added ; or, again, a tablespoonful of thick brewer's 
yeast with only a quarter-teaspoonful of soda, and no sour, 
but an additional cupful of sweet milk (or terralac) are put 
in, and the batter is allowed to rise until light. (Haskell.) 
An essentially similar composition is prescribed for wonders 
or crullers, except that the milk is omitted (the greater 
quantity of frying fat probably supplying all the fat that is 
desirable) ; the soft paste is rolled out an inch thick, cut and 
twisted into fantastic shapes and fried in a skillet (or frying- 
pan) of boiling fat (say, oil or butter) ; taken out with a 
skimmer, spread on a large dish, and, after cooling, sprinkled 
with sugar. (Leslie.) 

Roussettes. — Make a paste with a pound of flour, three 
eggs, a quarter pound of butter, a little salt, two spoonfuls 
of milk, a spoonful of brandy and one of orangeflower water; 
let it rest three hours ; roll it out to the thickness of a quarter- 
inch; cut it in squares, lozenges, rounds and the like, shaping 
the top; fry (immersed in fat), and sprinkle with sugar on 
both sides. Roussettes can be eaten either warm or cold; and 
they can be kept several days. (Fr.) 



WHEAT. 295 

Pancakes. — Sift half a pound, or a pint, of flour. Beat 
seven eggs very light, and stir them gradually into a quart 
of rich milk (or terralac). Then add by degrees the flour, 
so as to make a thin batter. Mix it very smooth, pressing out 
all the lumps with the back of a spoon. Set the frying pan 
over the fire, and when it is hot, grease it with a spoonful of 
butter. Then put in a ladleful of the batter, and fry it of a 
light brown color on both sides, turning it with care to pre- 
vent its breaking. Make each pancake large enough to cover 
the bottom of a dessert plate, greasing the pan every time. 
Send them to the table hot, with powdered sugar and nutmeg 
mixed, and with wine. (Leslie.) 

Sweet Pancakes. — Color the foregoing pancake batter a 
fine pink by stirring into it the juice of a large beetroot boiled 
tender, cut up and pounded in a mortar. Fry the pancakes, 
and as fast as they are done spread them thickly over with 
raspberry or other jam, or any kind of marmalade. Then roll 
them up nicely, and trim off the ends. Lay them side by side 
on a large dish, and strew powdered sugar over them. Send 
them to table hot, and eat them with sweetened cream. 
(Leslie.) 

French Pancakes. — For 16 or 18 cakes, take five good 
spoonfuls of flour, wet them little by little with three eggs, 
two spoonfuls of brandy, a pint of milk (or terralac) ; be 
careful to have no lumps ; add a teaspoonful of fine salt and 
a pinch of pepper; mix and beat the whole well together. The 
preparation should have the consistency of a very thin por- 
ridge, and should be made three or four hours beforehand. In 
a frying-pan melt some butter as large as a large filbert ; make 
it move in all directions, so as to grease the whole bottom 
of the frying-pan; put into it a ladleful of the batter, spread 
it out over the whole bottom of the pan in an extremely thin 
layer; when the cake is colored on one side; turn it on the 
other; eat it burning hot. To succeed with pancakes, they 
must cook quickly over a bright fire, and must not be put into 
the frying-pan, until it is very hot. More economically, in- 
stead of the pint of milk (or terralac), use half a pint of 
it and half a pint of water; and two eggs, instead of three; 
and one spoonful of brandy instead of three. (Fr.) 



296 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

CAKE. 

Wheat flour is combined in countless ways, according to 
fancy, with eggs, butter (or cream, or milk, or terralac) and 
sugar to make cake that is baked, or fried (either dry or im- 
mersed in fat). The cohesion of the flour into one heavy lump 
is prevented by raising to lightness either with yeast, or bak- 
ing powder, or eggs. Although such powders be unwholesome 
for daily use in bread, the small quantity used in cakes can 
probably do no harm. A few examples will be given, chiefly 
indicating the proportions of the ingredients, after some gen- 
eral directions for preparing and baking any kind of cake. 

Mixing and Baking Any Cake. — Except in dough-cake, 
the mixing of the ingredients should never be done with the 
hands, but with a wooden spoon in an earthen pan. Sift the 
flour and spices, and prepare the fruit, beforehand. When 
fruit is used, sprinkle it with a little flour to keep it from 
sinking while baking. The fruit may be spread evenly by 
putting it in layers, one in the middle and another near the 
top. Mixing new and stale milk injures the cake. Imperfect 
mixing may cause streaks in the cake. Egg-whites beaten tc 
a froth should be put in the last thing, just before baking, 
that the lightness, which comes almost wholly from them, may 
be more perfectly retained; for, if kept too long, they some- 
times go back. Care in baking is important. If the bottom 
of the oven be too hot, set the pan on a brick. If the oven 
is very hot, and the top crust forms too quickly, it prevents 
what is below from rising properly; so, cover the top with 
paper. Unequal baking or a sudden decrease of heat, before 
the cake is done, may make streaks in the cake. In baking, 
move the cake gently, if you change its place, or it will fall in 
streaks. The cake-pan, especially if old, should be lined with 
oiled paper, to prevent its giving a bad taste to the cake. Try 
when the cake is done by inserting a splinter, or straw; if it 
comes out clean, the cake is done. Neither cake nor bread 
should be wrapped in a cloth ; they are best kept in a tin box 
or a stone jar. (Beecher.) 

Icing or Frosting is added to the baked cake with white 
of egg and, for each egg, about a quarter-pound of sugar. Beat 
the whites, slowly adding the sugar; a little lemon-juice or 
tartaric acid makes the frosting whiter and better. Pour the 



WHEAT. 297 

icing on the centre, and spread it with a knife dipped in water. 
If possible, dry in an open sunny window, otherwise, harden 
it in the oven. In adding the sugar, some almonds pounded 
to a thin paste may be mixed in. (Beecher.) 

Gingerbread. — Take half a pint of molasses, or sugar, a 
small cup of soft butter, a gill and a half of water, a heaping 
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of hot water, 
and one even tablespoonful of strong ginger, or two if it be 
weak. Rub the butter and ginger into the flour, add the water, 
soda and molasses, and, while doing it, put in two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Roll into cards an inch thick, and bake 
half an hour in a quick oven. (Beecher.) 

Sponge Gingerbread. — Add to the foregoing two beaten 
eggs and water enough to make it as thin as pound cake; and 
bake as soon as it is well mixed. (Beecher.) 

Ginger Snaps and Seed Cookies. — One cup of butter (or 
of oil), two cups of sugar, or molasses, one cup of water, one 
tablespoonful of ginger, one heaping teaspoonful of cinnamon 
and one of cloves, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a small 
cup of hot water. Mix. and add flour enough for a stiff dough ; 
roll thin and cut into small round cakes ; or into larger 
rectangular hard gingerbread. If you omit the spices, and put 
in four or five tablespoonfuls of caraway seeds, you have 
seed cakes. If you leave out all spice and seeds, you have 
plain cookies. (Beecher.) 

Short Cake. — Rub three quarters of a pound of fresh 
butter (or a gill and a half of oil) into a pound and a half 
of sifted flour; and make it into dough with a little cold 
water. Roll it out into a sheet half an inch thick, and cut 
into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler. Lay them in 
a shallow iron pan sprinkled with flour and bake them in a 
moderate oven, till they are brown. Send them to the table 
hot; split and butter them. (Leslie.) 

Briosh. — To make a briosh (" brioche ") is one of the dif- 
ficult feats of cake making, but a careful attention to the fol- 
lowing details will insure a good result. For six or seven 
persons, put a quarter-pound of good flour into a pan, a soup- 
tureen, or a salad-bowl. Make a hole in the middle, and into 
it put two tablespoonfuls of brewery yeast. Mix the flour 
little by little with the yeast, until you have a rather firm 



298 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

paste, knead it well with your hands, make it into a ball, which 
you bury in the middle of the flour. It is the sponge. Put it, 
covered up, in a warm place — but not too warm, so that it 
would cook — until the lump of paste has swollen to double 
or triple its former bulk. It will take five or six hours. When 
the sponge has fully swollen, take it from the flour, and make 
a hole in the flour again; put into it four spoonfuls of milk 
(or terralac), a heaping teaspoonful of fine salt, six ounces 
of good butter (or twelve spoonfuls of oil), mix them little by 
little with the flour, stirring and shaking it well, and beat- 
ing it, so to speak, with the fingers ; add an egg, white 
and yolk, keep on mixing; add another egg, constantly 
knead, handle, work the paste in the salad-bowl, or pan. 
Finally, mix this paste with the sponge thoroughly, yet 
without working the paste too much. When the mixing is 
complete, make the paste into a little heap in the middle of 
the pan; cover up with a cloth and a plate, but without letting 
the plate rest on the paste; and set it in a warm place for 
about eleven or twelve hours. The briosh paste should not be 
either too soft or too hard; it should be soft, but not so as to 
flow or spread out, and, if too soft, more flour should be added ; 
if it is too hard, more egg. At the end of eleven or twelve 
hours, roll it out on a well floured table ; fold the edges over 
towards the centre, and roll out again. Repeat this operation 
four times ; collect it again into a ball. Let it rest four hours, 
covered with a cloth. Again roll it out, and fold it over four 
times. Take about a quarter of the paste to make a head; 
round it, and place it upon the rest of the paste rolled out to 
a thickness of two inches, and nicely round in shape. Put 
the briosh upon a paper, gild it with an egg beaten as if for 
an omelet, bake at once in a hot oven ; yet, if it is a bread oven, 
wait until after the bread has been put in. It takes half an 
hour, or three quarters, for the baking; if it is becoming too 
much browned before that, cover it with paper. If you have 
only a Dutch oven for the baking, heat it well, and mould the 
briosh into the form of a crown, shaping and kneading it. 
Put it upon the paper, and make a slit in the middle of the 
breadth of the briosh. The sponge can be prepared in the 
afternoon, the paste made late in the evening, and the paste 
finished the next morning. (Fr.) 

French Plum Cake (Baba). — Make and mix a sponge 
and paste exactly in the same way as for the briosh; only the 



WHEAT. 299 

paste and sponge, when mixed together, should be a little thin- 
ner than for the briosh; if it is too thick, add a little milk (or 
terralac). When the mixing is complete make a hole in the 
middle, and put into it two ounces of powdered sugar, a wine- 
glassful of Madeira, or of rum, two ounces of stoned Malaga 
raisins cut in two, two ounces of dried currants, a third of an 
ounce of cedrat comfit cut in small shreds, and a pinch of 
powdered saffron. Mix the whole well together. Put it into 
a buttered sauce-pan or mould ; as the paste will greatly swell, 
do not fill the mould more than half full; wait until the paste 
has risen almost to the top of the mould; bake an hour and a 
half in a moderate oven. (Fr.) 

English Plum Cake. — Take a pound of dough at the 
baker's. Knead it up with six ounces of dried currants well 
cleaned and washed, a piece of orange-peel comfit, cut into 
quite small bits ; six eggs, whites and yolks ; a quarter-pound 
of butter; a tablespoonful of half-and-half anise and caraway 
seed; a quarter-pound of powdered sugar; half a teaspoonful 
of fine salt. Beat the whole well together; line the inside of 
a single-piece mould with buttered paper; three quarters fill 
it with the mixture ; cook an hour and a half in an oven that is 
not too hot. Do not take out of the mould until fifteen or twent}^ 
minutes after taking from the oven. The plum-cake can be 
eaten either warm or cold. Instead of one large cake, small 
ones may be made with small moulds. If there be no bakery 
near, to provide the dough, make the cake as follows: Melt 
a quarter-pound of butter over a gentle fire (or eight spoonfuls 
of oil), and take it from the fire; beat it up with a quarter- 
pound of sugar; add a half-pound of dried currants and a piece 
of orange-peel comfit cut into quite small bits, the anise and 
caraway ; then add, one after the other, beating well, six whole 
eggs, and lastly three-quarters of a pound of flour and a 
spoonful of good brewery yeast. Bake in the way already de- 
scribed. (Fr.) 

English Cake. — Take a pound of dough prepared for 
bread, some butter as large as an egg (or four spoonfuls of 
oil), half a cupful of milk (or terralac), two spoonfuls of 
powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of fine salt, and eight spoonfuls 
of dried currants ; mix the whole well together, and bake it in 
a buttered saucepan for about an hour, with fire above and be- 
low. (Fr.) 



300 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Doughcake, Baked or Fried. — Mix with the hands, three 
cups of raised dough, half a cup of butter (or of oil), two 
cups of sugar, two eggs, fruit and spice according to taste. 
When the mass is light, bake in loaves. The cake can be made 
more or less sweet and shortened, by lessening or increasing 
the quantity of dough. If the dough be thickened enough to 
roll, and be rolled an inch thick, and cut into oblong strips, 
it may be fried in butter for doughnuts. (Beecher.) 

Yeast-Raised Plain Loaf Cake. — Mix well two pounds 
of dried and sifted flour, a pint of warm water in which is 
melted a quarter of a pound of butter half a teaspoonful of 
salt, three eggs without beating, and three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar; then add two nutmegs, two teaspoonfuls of cinna- 
mon, and half a pint of home-brewed, or a quarter-pint of dis- 
tillery yeast. When the mixture has risen light, add two or 
three pounds of fruit, and let it stand half an hour, before 
baking. If the dough be thickened enough to roll, and be 
rolled an inch thick and cut into oblong strips, it may be fried 
in butter for doughnuts. (Beecher.) 

Rich Loaf Cake is made like the foregoing, only adding 
more eggs, butter and sugar. For example: Four pounds of 
flour, three of sugar, two of butter (or a quart of oil), a quart 
of water or milk (or terralac), ten unbeaten eggs, half a pint 
of wine, three nutmegs, three teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, and 
two cloves; half a pint of distillery yeast, or twice as much 
home-brewed. In New England this is called Election or Com- 
mencement Cake. Two or three risings used to be practiced; 
but one is as good, if the mixing is thorough. (Beecher.) 

Four Quarters. — Take three or four eggs and the same 
weight each of flour, butter (or oil), and powdered sugar. Mix 
well together the flour, butter, sugar and the yolks of the eggs ; 
seasoned with a pinch of salt and a spoonful of orangeflower 
water ; add the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth ; put into a 
buttered (or oiled) mould, sprinkle with sugar, and cook an 
hour and a half in an oven that is not too hot. With Al- 
monds: To make the four quarters more delicate, add a 
quarter pound of blanched almonds. To blanch the almonds 
drop them some minutes into very hot water. (Fr.) 

One-Two-Three-Four Cake. — Take one cup of butter, or 
oil, (half a cup is better), two cups of sugar, three cups of 



WHEAT. 



301 



flour, and four eggs. Mix the butter, sugar and yolks. Then 
mix in the flour very thoroughly, and lastly the whites in a 
stiff froth. Bake immediately, and the cake will be light, with 
nothing further added. But it is equally light, if, omitting 
the eggs, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar be worked into 
the flour, and the flour then mixed with the previously well 
mixed butter and sugar. When ready to bake, mix in very 
thoroughly and quickly a teaspoonful of soda, or a bit of sal 
volatile (carbonate of ammonia), dissolved in a cup of warm 
(not hot) water. This makes two loaves. For several varia- 
tions, Chocolate Cake: Bake the cake in layers about an 
eighth of an inch thick. When they are nearly cool, spread 
over them a paste made of equal parts of scraped chocolate 
and sugar wet with water. Place the layers one over another, 
frost the top, and cut in oblong pieces for the cake basket. 
Jelly Cake is made in the same way, only using jelly in- 
stead of chocolate. Orancje Cake again is made in the same 
way, using instead of jelly, peeled, finely chopped and sweet- 
ened oranges, and flavoring the cake with a little grated orange 
peel. Almond Cake: Blanch three ounces of almonds (that 
is pour on boiling water, and take off the skins.) Chop or 
pound them with an equal quantity of sugar, make a thin paste 
with water, and use this instead of the jelly. Coconut 
Cake: Coconut, chopped fine, can be used instead of almonds. 
Strawberry, Peach, Cranberry and Quince Cake and the 
like: Strawberries, peaches, cranberries, quinces, or any 
other fruit, mashed or cooked, can be sweetened and used in 
the place of the jelly. This cake can be made richer by add- 
ing spices and fruit before baking. Cream can be used in 
place of butter. Chopped almonds, citron or coconut may be 
put into the cake before baking, making still another variety. 
(Beecher.) 

Egg-Raised Plain Cake. — Take a pound, or quart, of 
flour, half as much sugar, half as much butter (or oil) as 
sugar, four or five eggs, one nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon. Mix well the sugar, butter, yolks and spice; then 
the flour, and last the whites as stiff froth. Clearly, this is 
the same as the one-two-three-four cake, except slightly less 
flour; or, you may say, slightly more sugar and eggs. For 
Crullers, thicken stiff with flour; roll thin, cut in strips, 
form twisted cakes, and fry in butter. For other variations, 
see the end of the next receipt. (Beecher.) 



302 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Pound Cake, very rich. — Of flour, sugar and butter (or use 
oil), one pound each; nine eggs, a glass of brandy, one nutmeg, 
one teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon. Mix half the flour with 
the butter, brandy and spice; add the yolks beaten well into 
the sugar. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add them 
in alternate spoonfuls with the rest of the flour; then beat 
a long time, and bake as soon as done. This cake and the 
foregoing may be varied by adding citron, fruit, or other 
spices, making them more or less rich. (Beecher.) 

Fruit Cake. — Fruit-cake is made either like pound-cake 
with fruit added, or like plain cake raised with either eggs 
or yeast, adding fruit. Walnut-meats or almonds may 
be chopped, and put into the cake, instead of fruit, making 
another variety. (Beecher.) 

Huckleberry Cake. — One quart of huckleberries, three 
cups of sugar, a cup and a half of butter (or oil), three cups 
of flour, six eggs, one cup of sweet milk (or terralac), and 
one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water. Cream 
the butter and sugar, and the beaten yolks. Then add the 
milk, flour, and two grated nutmegs. Then add the whites, 
whipped to a stiff froth, and the berries, gently, so as not to 
mash them. Currants and other berries may be used in 
the same way. If they be very sour, add more sugar. If 
doubtful of raising it enough, add a teaspoonful of soda; or, 
more surely, a bit of sal volatile (carbonate of ammonia), as 
large as a hickory nut. (Beecher.) 

Gold-and-Silver Cake. — For each kind, take one cupful 
of sugar (for the silver, white; and for the gold, brown may 
be used), half a cup of butter (or of oil), half a cup of milk 
(or terralac), two cups of flour, one teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar, and half as much soda. For the one cake, use the 
yolks of three eggs; and for the other, the three whites, as 
stiff froth. Mix the cream of tartar very thoroughly in the 
flour, and put the soda in last. Bake immediately. This 
makes one loaf of each kind, in flat pans, and each is to be 
frosted. (Beecher.) 

Plain Sponge Cake. — Mix thoroughly two cups of sifted 
flour and two cups of white sugar with one teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar. Beat four eggs to a froth, not separating the 
whites, and add some grated lemon peel, or nutmeg, or rose- 



WHEAT. 303 

water. Just before 1 iking, add half a teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in three tablespoonfuls of warm water. Beat quick, 
and set in the oven immediately. If you add flour enough 
to roll, and fry in butter, you have doughnuts. (Beecher.) 

Rich Sponge Cake. — Take twelve eggs, a pound of sugar, 
and three-fifths of a pound of flour. Beat the sugar into the 
yolks; add the juice and grated rind of a lemon; then the 
flour; and then the whites beaten to a stiff froth; and bake 
as soon as possible, in brick shaped pans lined with buttered 
paper. (Beecher.) Lady Fingers are made of sponge cake 
baked in small pans of their shape. 

WHEATEN PUDDINGS. 

Groat Pudding. — One quart of groats ; four ounces of 
onions; one teaspoonful of powdered sage; half a teaspoonful 
of marjoram and two ounces of butter (or four tablespoonfuls 
of palatable oil). Pick and well wash the groats; steep them 
twelve hours in cold water; pour off the water not absorbed, 
replacing it with fresh water; add the onion chopped small, 
sage, marjoram, butter (or oil), pepper and salt, and bake 
in a moderate oven. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Rolled Pudding. — Make a paste of a pound of flour and 
half a pound of butter; and roll it out thin into a square or 
oblong sheet; trim off the edges, so as to make it an even 
shape. Spread thickly over it some marmalade, or cold stewed 
fruit, made very sweet, either apple, peach, plum, goose- 
berry or cranberry. Roll up the paste, with the fruit on it, 
into a scroll. Secure each end with a nicely fitted round piece 
rolled out from the trimmings you have cut from the edges 
of the sheet. Put the pudding into a cloth, and boil it at least 
three hours. Serve it up hot, and eat it with cream sauce, 
or with butter and sugar. (Leslie.) 

French Rolled Pudding. — Make a hole in the middle 
of a pound of flour; put into it a quarter-pound of butter (or 
eight spoonfuls of oil), an egg, a teaspoonful of fine salt, 
about a cupful of water; knead the whole well together; roll 
it out to the thickness of a dollar; spread over the whole sur- 
face an excessively thin layer of currant jelly, or of plum, 
or apricot, marmalade; roll up the dough so covered, into the 
shape of a big sausage; wrap it up in a cloth; tie both ends 



304- VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

with strings ; cook an hour and a half or two hours in boil- 
ing water. The water should be constantly boiling, and 
should completely cover the pudding. If the water boils away 
too much, fill up the pot again with boiling water. Unwrap 
the pudding, and serve it up. The pudding is cut in slices, 
and should be eaten hot. The left-over part can be cut in 
slices, and warmed up in a little sugared water. (Fr.) 

Loaf Pudding. — When bread is too stale, put a loaf in a 
pudding bag, and boil it in salted water an hour and a half, 
and eat it with hard pudding sauce. (Beecher.) 

Bread Pudding without Milk or Eggs. — One pound of 
stale bread ; half a pound of dried currants ; a quarter of a 
pound of sugar; and one teaspoonful of ginger. Pour boiling 
water on the bread, and when it is cool and properly soaked, 
press out the water, and mash the bread, adding the sugar, 
currants, ginger, a little salt and grated nutmeg; mix the 
whole well together; put it into a buttered dish, laying a few 
small pieces of butter (or some palatable oil) on the top ; and 
bake in a moderate oven ; when it is baked, let it stand a few 
minutes ; then turn it out on a flat dish, and serve it up, either 
hot or cold. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Left-over Bread Pudding. — Boil half a pint of milk (or 
terralac) with sugar, salt and half a spoonful of orangeflower 
water, or lemon-zest. Cut some pieces of briosh, or of bread, 
in slices as thick as your finger; put them to soak in the milk, 
then put them to drain. Dip them in eggs beaten as for an 
omelet, and then in finely crumbled bread-crumb; fry them; 
serve them up sprinkled with sugar. (Fr.) 

Fried Bread Pudding. — Cut stale bread (preferably 
baker's bread, as surer to be perfectly light) in thick slices, 
for greater delicacy omitting the crust; and put it to soak 
several hours in cold milk (or terralac) ; or still better in un- 
cooked custard. Then cook on a griddle, with some salt; 
and eat it with sugar, or molasses or a sweet sauce. (Beecher.) 

Boiled Bread Pudding. — Pare off the crust from a pound 
loaf of baker's bread, and cut the crumb into very small pieces ; 
and pour upon them, in a pan, a quart of boiling milk (or 
terralac). Cover the pan closely, and let the bread steep in 
the hot steam for about three quarters of an hour. Then re- 
move the cover, and let the milk cool. Beat four eggs thick 



WHEAT. 305 

and smooth; then beat into them a tablespoonful and a half 
of fine wheat flour. Next beat the eggs and flour into the 
bread and milk, and continue to beat hard, until the mixture 
is as light as possible; for on this the success of the pudding 
chiefly depends. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Dip 
your very thick pudding-cloth (better a square cloth than a 
bag) into it, and dredge it well with flour. Pour in the 
mixture, and firmly tie up the cloth, leaving room for it to 
swell, and plastering up the opening, if there be any, with 
flour moistened with water. If any water gets into it, the 
pudding is spoiled. Keep the water boiling hard, and, if 
necessary, add boiling water from a kettle. Cold water would 
chill the pudding, and make it hard and heavy. Boil it an 
hour and a half. Turn it out of the bag the minute before 
you send it to the table. Eat it with wine sauce, or with 
sugar and butter, or molasses. It may be much improved by 
adding to the mixture half a pound of raisins, preferably 
seedless ones, well floured to prevent their sinking. (Leslie.) 

Bread Pudding with Onion. — Half a pound of bread- 
crumbs ; two ounces of onion ; a teaspoonful of sage ; three 
quarters of a pint of milk; and two eggs. Mix the bread, 
sage, onion, pepper and salt with the milk, add the eggs Avell 
beaten, and bake in a rather quick oven. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Pudding and Dumpling Cloths should be squares of 
coarse thick linen hemmed, and with tape strings sewed to 
them. After use, they should be washed, dried and ironed; 
and kept in a kitchen drawer, so as to be always ready when 
wanted. (Leslie.) 

French Boiled Bread Pudding. — For 12 or 15 persons: 
Soak half a pound of bread-crumbs in milk (or terralac), take 
it out without pressing it, knead it with a quarter-teaspoonful 
of salt, a little nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, two eggs (whites 
and yolks), a quarter-pound of dried currants, well cleaned 
and washed, a quarter-pound of stoned Malaga raisins, a 
quarter-pound of butter (or eight spoonfuls of oil). Boil 
some water with big bubbles, dip into it a cloth, wring it 
out, spread it on a table, dredge flour over it; turn upon it 
the mixture; raise up the edges of the cloth, and tie them 
together with a string, taking care not to crowd the paste too 
much. Put the pudding so wrapped up, into the boiling water, 



306 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

which should completely cover it; and let it boil without in- 
terruption for about an hour and a quarter. Take it from 
the water, but do not unwrap it for a quarter of an hour; so 
that it may become a little firm. Put into a sauce-pan a 
quarter-pound of butter (or eight spoonfuls of oil) and a 
teaspoonful of flour; add a quarter of a cupful of water, and 
as much rum, two ounces of sugar, and a little salt. Simmer 
eight or ten minutes ; pour upon the pudding, and serve 
up. (Fr.) 

Baked Bread Pudding. — Cut the crust from a stale pound 
loaf of bread; and grate or rub the crumb as fine as possible. 
Boil a quart of rich milk (or terralac), and pour it hot over 
the bread; then stir a quarter of a pound of butter (or eight 
spoonfuls of oil), the same quantity of sugar, a glass of wine 
and brandy mixed, or a glass of rosewater; or, without the 
liquor, the grated peel of a large lemon. Add a tablespoonful 
of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg, pounded. Stir the whole very 
well, cover it, and set it away for half an hour. Then let 
it cool. Beat seven or eight eggs very light, and stir them 
gradually into the mixture, after it is cold. Then butter a 
deep dish, and bake the pudding an hour. Send it to the 
table cool. (Leslie.) 

French Bread Pudding. — For 12 or 15 persons: Soak 
half a pound of finely crumbled bread-crumb in milk (or ter- 
ralac), drain it well, even press it, to drive out the milk; mix 
it with half a pound of powdered sugar, a quarter-pound of 
stoned Malaga raisins, a quarter pound of dried currants, well 
washed and cleaned, a quarter-pound of butter (or eight 
spoonfuls of oil) ; add four eggs, of which the whites are 
beaten to froth, and a small glass of rum. Do not put the 
whites in, until the moment of pouring the mixture into the 
mould. Put the whole into a well buttered mould ; cover it, 
and cook two hours in a double boiler, and thereafter put it 
an instant in the oven, or in the hot ashes, to color the surface 
a little. Take from the mould; serve it up powdered with 
sugar and moistened with rum, which you set alight. (Fr.) 

Bread and Butter Pudding. — Butter a deep dish, and 
cover the bottom with somewhat thickly buttered slices of 
stale bread, without the crust. Spread thickly over them a 
third of a pound of dried currants, picked over, washed and 
dried, and strew on them some sugar. Then put on another 






WHEAT. 307 

layer of bread and butter, and cover it likewise with dried 
currants and sugar. Finish with a third layer of each, mak- 
ing a pound of the dried currants in all. Over the whole pour 
four eggs, beaten very light and mixed with a pint of milk 
(or terralac), and a wine glass (a gill) of rosewater. Bake 
the pudding an hour, and grate nutmeg over it when done. 
Eat it warm, but not hot. Instead of dried currants, seeded 
raisins, cut in half may be used; or, again, stewed goose- 
berries; or apples, pared, cored and minced fine, (Leslie.) 

Brown Betty Pudding. — The Brown Betty pudding is 
essentially like the bread-and-butter pudding, except that you 
omit the eggs and milk; and use crumbled bread, instead of 
sliced, twice its bulk of finely chopped tart apples, and half 
its bulk of sugar and of butter cut in bits (or use oil), with, 
say, a teaspoonful of cinnamon for spice ; spreading in alter- 
nate layers, the bread at top. Cover closely, and steam three 
quarters of an hour in a moderate oven ; then uncover, and 
brown quickly. (Harland.) 

Batter Pudding without Eggs. — One pound of flour; one 
pint of milk (or terralac) ; one large teaspoonful of baking 
powder; one teaspoonful of salt; and one small teaspoonful 
of prepared ginger. Rub the baking powder quite smooth ; 
then mix it well with the flour, ginger and salt; stir in nearly 
half of the milk (or terralac) ; beat it till quite smooth and 
free from lumps ; then add the rest of the milk (or terralac) ; 
butter (or oil) a basin that it will very nearly fill; pour in 
the batter, and tie a cloth tightly over it; boil an hour and 
forty minutes ; and serve it up with sweet sauce. It may be 
boiled in a cloth an hour and a half. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Boiled Batter Pudding. — Beat well together, breaking 
all lumps, a pint of flour, a quart of new milk (or terralac), 
and a little salt, and let them soak fifteen minutes. Then 
thoroughly incorporate eight well beaten eggs. Allow one- 
third of the pudding bag, or boiler, for swelling. If a bag 
be used, the pudding should be turned over, after it has been 
in the pot ten minutes. Puddings should be put into boiling 
water, and kept steadily boiling for two hours, if large; and 
should be kept constantly covered by adding boiling water 
from time to time. Cold water would make the pudding heavy. 



308 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Serve it up as soon as boiled, or it will fall. Add a rich 
liquid sauce. (Haskell.) 

Baked Batter Pudding. — A quart of new milk (or ter- 
ralac), nine large spoonfuls of sifted flour, and a little salt. 
Mix the flour to a stiff paste, and work out the lumps ; then 
gradually mix in the milk, and let it swell half an hour. Then 
stir in eight well-beaten eggs, and thoroughly incorporate the 
ingredients by quick beating, until it foams. Bake in a quick 
oven twenty minutes, if a small pudding; and thirty, if large. 
Serve it up as soon as baked, or it will fall. A nice liquid 
sauce or butter and sugar worked to a cream, are either proper. 
(Haskell.) 

Cream Batter Pudding. — Make a very light batter like 
that just described (for baked batter pudding), but with a 
gill less of milk, and one more egg, and tasting a little of 
the salt. Then stir in a gill of sweet cream not richer than 
what would rise by noon on a good cow's morning's milk; 
bake quickly; say, half an hour for a good sized pudding; 
and serve it up at once, with a rich liquid sauce. Or, use 
six eggs and two small teaspoonfuls of salt, a pint of flour, 
and a pint of milk (or terralac), and, just before baking, a 
pint of sweet cream (or terralac cream). Or, again, use a pint 
of flour, half a pint of new milk (or terralac), with salt, seven 
eggs, the yolks and whites, separately beaten, mixed in, first 
the yolks, and then the whites, in another half-pint of milk 
(or terralac), each time well beaten, then stirred into the milk 
and flour; and lastly add a pint of rich cream. Add, too, if 
you like, three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little nutmeg. 
Serve up with wine sauce; and, at once, as all the batter 
puddings quickly fall. (Haskell.) 

Quick-done. — For ten or twelve persons: Into a sauce- 
pan put six egg-yolks, mixing them well with a quarter-pound 
of flour; then, little by little, wet them with a pint of milk 
(or terralac) ; add half a pound of powdered sugar and a 
spoonful of orangeflower water, or a little vanilla powder, 
or some lemon zest. Butter (or oil) a mould, or a deep dish; 
pour the porridge into it, immediately after adding the six 
whites of eggs beaten to a very stiff froth. Cook in a very 
hot oven, or Dutch oven, at least twenty minutes; sprinkle 
with sugar, and serve up at once, as soon as it has well risen 



WHEAT. 309 

and is of a fine color; for otherwise the quick-done would 
fall back. (Fr.) 

Cottage Pudding. — Stir together one cup of sugar and 
two tablespoonfuls of butter (or four of oil) ; add the beaten 
yolks of two eggs ; then, the two beaten whites ; then, three 
cupfuls of sifted flour mixed with two teaspoonfuls of cream 
of tartar and one of fine salt, and again sifted. Lastly, when 
the dinner is ready to serve up, add a cupful of milk (or ter- 
ralac) with a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it. Have the 
oven heated to a quick, but not burning, heat. The pudding 
dish should be earthen and shallow ; grease it with sweet but- 
ter (or oil), stir in the milk and soda with a quick movement, 
and bake immediately. It will be ready for the table in twenty 
minutes; or less, if very thin. Serve it up with sugar-sweet- 
ened sweet cream flavored with a drop of any extract fancied 
by the family; or use a wine sauce, or the " dyspepsia sauce." 
(Haskell.) 

Plum Pudding. — For 18 or 20 persons: Mix a quarter- 
pound of finely crumbled bread-crumb, a quarter-pound of 
flour, and half a pound of butter, moisten with a cupful of 
milk (or terralac) ; beat three eggs (whites and yolks) with 
a teaspoonful of mixed nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon powder; 
mix them with the paste just described; add a quarter-pound 
of a mixture of cedrat, orange-peel and candied angelica, cut 
in small shreds, half a pound of well cleaned and washed 
dried currants, and half a pound of Smyrna or stoned Malaga 
raisins ; and a cupful of brandy with which has been mingled 
the juice of a lemon, half a teaspoonful of salt and two ounces 
of sugar. Stir the whole well with a wooden spoon, until the 
spoon will stand upright in the paste. Let the paste stand 
five or six hours, or, still better, over-night. Butter, or oil, a 
mould, or a large bowl; yet not so large but that the paste 
will make it heaping full; cover it with a cloth that has been 
dipped in boiling water; and tie the cloth with a string. Cook 
at least five or six hours in boiling water, the mould upside 
down, and completely covered by the water. The water should 
not cease boiling for an instant ; therefore, as it boils away, re- 
place it with boiling water. When you take the pudding out 
of the kettle, dip it completely for ten minutes in cold water, 
so as to give it a little firmness, and enable it to be taken from 
the mould without being deformed. Take it from the mould, 



310 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and serve it up sprinkled with sugar, and moistened with rum, 
to which you set fire. 

Sauce for the Plum Pudding. — Put into a sauce-pan 
two yolks of eggs well beaten and gradually mixed with half 
a cup of rum or Madeira, and half a cup of water; add a 
quarter-pound of sugar, and good, fresh butter as large as 
an egg (or use four spoonfuls of oil) ; beat the whole well 
together; set it over the fire until the butter is melted, stirring 
all the time, as for a thickening. Serve up in a bowl or sauce- 
boat. Such a plum pudding may, instead of being boiled, be 
baked in a dish lined with pie paste, in the oven, or Dutch 
oven, very hot. Or it may be divided into small portions, 
and each wrapped in pie paste, and baked in a hot oven, or 
Dutch oven. (Fr.) 

American Boiled Plum Pudding. — Boil a quart of rich 
milk (or terralac), with a small bunch of peach leaves in it, 
then strain it, and set it away to cool. Beat ten eggs very 
light, and stir them gradually into the cooled milk, alternately 
with the grated crumb of a two pound loaf of bread and three 
quarters of a pound of butter cut up. Add, by degrees, a 
pound of sugar, a pound of dried currants picked, washed 
and dried, and half a pound of stoned raisins cut in half, with 
three large tablespoonfuls of flour previously strewn over the 
currants and raisins; also two beaten nutmegs, a large table- 
spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, and the grated peel 
and juice of two large lemons or oranges; and a large glass 
of brandy and one of white wine. Mix the whole very well, 
and stir it hard. Then put it into a thick cloth that has been 
scalded and floured; leave room for the pudding to swell, 
and tie the cloth very firmly, pasting the tying-place with a 
small lump of moistened flour, to keep the water out more 
surely. Boil the pudding in a large pot of boiling water 
steadily for five hours, refilling the pot now and then from a 
boiling kettle. Turn the pudding frequently in the pot. As 
soon as you take the pudding out of the cloth, stick all over 
it, outside, half a pout**! of citron and half a pound of almonds 
blanched and split lengthwise in half. Send the pudding to 
the table hot; eat it with wine sauce, or with cold wine and 
sugar. If there be enough of the pudding left, it may be cut 
in slices, and fried in butter next day. All the ingredients, 
except the eggs, should be prepared the day before, to give 
time for the cooking. (Leslie.) 



WHEAT. 811 

American Baked Plum Pudding. — Grate all the crumb 
of a stale pound-loaf of bread; pour a quart of rich milk (or 
terralac), boiling hot, over the grated bread; cover it, and 
let it steep for an hour; then uncover it to cool; mixing with 
it half a pound of butter cut up (or use 16 spoonfuls, a cupful, 
of oil), half a pound of sugar, two nutmegs beaten to powder, 
a tablespoonful of mace and cinnamon powdered and mixed 
together, and a quarter-pound of citron cut in large slips, 
and adding a glass of brandy and a glass of white wine. Beat 
eight eggs very light, and when the milk is quite cold, stir 
them gradually into the mixture. Then add, by degrees, half 
a pound of dried currants that have been picked over, washed 
and dried; and half a pound of raisins, stoned and cut in 
half, having previously dredged the currants and raisins with 
flour. Stir the whole mixture very hard. Put it into a but- 
tered dish, and bake it two hours. Send it to the table warm, 
and eat it with wine sauce, or with wine and sugar only. 
The ingredients may best be prepared the day before, and 
kept covered closely. (Leslie.) 

Bread and Plum Puddings in General. — It is seen by 
the foregoing receipts that there is a wide variation in the 
proportions of the ingredients of bread puddings and plum 
puddings and in the spices of plum puddings. The French 
generally (though not in all cases) require fewer eggs and 
less butter. The cook has therefore much room for using 
judgment, or indulging fancy, according to the opportunities 
and prices of the grocery shops, or taste of the household. 
The fact illustrates the futility of extreme culinary precision 
in weights and measures; especially as there is too great 
diversity not only in the taste of individuals, but in the com- 
position of the materials used (for example, flour, yeast and 
other natural products) and in the dimensions of the vegetables 
and fruits to be treated. The receipts for these puddings also 
show that they are pretty well-balanced foods, the butter 
supplying the deficiencies of the bread and flour in fat, and 
the fruit making good any deficiency in carbohydrates ; and 
the spices encourage the secretion of the digestive liquids. 
The quantity of sugar and fruit is perhaps made rather large, 
to suit meat eaters. 



312 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

FRITTERS. 

Plain Fritters. — Beat seven eggs very light; stir them 
gradually into a quart of milk (or terralac) ; add, by degrees, 
three-quarters of a pound, or a pint and a half, of sifted flour. 
Beat the whole very hard. Have ready in a frying pan over 
the fire a large quantity of butter (or oil) ; when it has come 
to a hard boil, begin to put in the fritters; allowing for each 
about a gill of batter, or half a cupful. Begin to fry the 
fritters, as soon as the batter is mixed; for it will fall by 
standing. They do not require turning, and will be done in a 
few minutes. Fry at a time as many as the pan will hold. 
Send them to the table hot, and eat them with powdered 
cinnamon, sugar and white wine. Let fresh hot ones be sent 
in as they are wanted; they chill, and become heavy imme- 
diately. (Leslie.) Apple and other fruit fritters made with 
batter like this, will be mentioned under the different fruits. 

Frying Batter. — Take some flour, more or less according 
to the quantity of the objects you wish to fry; make a hole 
in the middle; put into it, for a quarter-pound of flour, an 
egg (yolk and white), a little fine salt and pepper, a spoonful 
of brandy; mix well with the flour; and little by little some 
water and some milk (or terralac), until the paste is of the 
consistency necessary to leave the thickness of a cent upon 
the objects it covers. Mix, beat, work with a fork; let the 
batter stand for half an hour. At the moment of using it, 
add half of the white of an egg beaten to froth, if you wish 
much puffing-up; which, however good looking, nevertheless 
leaves the object more impregnated with the frying but- 
ter. (Fr.) 

Batter for Frying Vegetables. — Two eggs, a quarter 
of a pound of flour, and one teacupful of water. Beat the 
eggs with the flour, till quite smooth, adding the water, and 
season with pepper and salt. It should be rather thick, or it 
will not adhere to the vegetables. It is used for frying scor- 
zonera, boiled tender; cauliflower, boiled quickly for a few 
minutes, and then gently, till nearly tender, then well drained 
and cut in slices; and celery, boiled till nearly tender, then 
with the roots divided. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Preserve Fritters. — Take some round wafer-cakes; 
cover the upper side of one of them with a layer of preserves 



WHEAT. 313 

about as thin as a cent, either currant jelly, apple jelly, rasp- 
berry jelly, or apricot marmalade, or plum marmalade; being 
careful not to spread the preserves to the very edge of the 
wafer-cake; cover with another wafer-cake; join the edges of 
the two cakes with a little water. Dip the whole into some 
batter made as for plain fritters (just described) ; and fry in 
hot butter. Or, for eight persons, take half a pound of either 
short paste or puff paste. Roll it out as thin as a cent; cut 
it in rounds with a bowl, or a tumbler; cover them with a 
thin layer of preserves, cither apple, plum or apricot mar- 
malade, or the like ; do not go to the edge ; double them over ; 
stick the two edges together with a little water. Fry them 
in very hot butter; take them out of a fine color; drain them; 
sprinkle them with sugar; serve up. (Fr.) 

Puffs. — Make some paste as for fritters. When it has 
cooked, and has had incorporated the needful quantity of eggs, 
so that it is manageable, butter (or oil), or sprinkle with flour, 
a sheet of paper, or of tin ; arrange upon it from place to place 
small pieces of the paste as large as a large English walnut, 
with intervals of twice their bulk between them ; gild them 
with egg; let them rest a quarter of an hour, and put them 
into a gentle oven; when they are of a fine, slightly brown, 
color, sprinkle them with a little powdered sugar, and put 
them back to be colored more strongly by a bright fire lighted 
at the mouth of the oven, or by making the fire more active 
if they are cooking in a stove-oven. (Fr.) 

Puffs with Cream. — Make puffs in the way just de- 
scribed, raise up a small portion of the top ; fill the inside with 
pastry cream (p. 1 12), or with whipped cream (p. 110). (Fr.) 

Puffed Fritters. — Put into a sauce-pan a cupful of water, 
some sugar as large as a pigeon's egg, some butter equally 
large (or two spoonfuls of oil), some lemon-zest, a little salt; 
boil a few bubbles ; put into this sweetened and flavored water, 
some flour with one hand, while you stir with a spoon in the 
other, until the paste becomes very thick; and stir it, until it 
is cooked (which may be perceived by its not sticking to the 
fingers when they touch it) ; withdraw the sauce-pan from 
the fire, and let the preparation cool; put into it an egg, 
stirring lively, to incorporate it with the paste; break another 
egg, and so on until the paste is manageable, and drops slowly 



314 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

from the spoon; with a spoon take a little of the paste as 
large as an English walnut, and let it fall into frying butter 
(or oil) that is not too hot. When this bit of paste is well 
puffed out and of a fine color, serve it up warm, sprinkled 
with sugar. Puffed fritters are good cold. If you prefer 
they should be flavored with orangeflower, replace the lemon 
or orange-zest with a spoonful of orangeflower water; but 
put it in along with the first egg. (Fr.) 

Cream Fritters. — Make a thick porridge with a quart 
of milk, (or terralac) ; and four heaping spoonfuls of flour; 
add a quarter-pound of sugar, a little salt, a spoonful of 
orangeflower water, or a little of vanilla, or of orange-zest, 
or lemon-zest; let it half cool, and add four yolks of eggs; 
pour upon dishes in such a way as to form layers of porridge 
as thick as your finger; let them completely cool. When the 
porridge is fully set, cut it into pieces as large as fritters, 
round, square or lozenge-shaped; dip into eggs beaten as for 
an omelet and sweetened; then, into finely crumbled bread- 
crumb; fry in quite hot butter (or oil). (Fr.) 

Boston Cream Cakes. — Stir half a pound of butter (or 
a cupful of oil) into a pint of warm water; bring it slowly to 
a boil, over a fire, stirring often; when it boils, add three 
quarters of a pound of flour, stirring all the time; take it 
from the fire, turn it into a deep dish, and let it cool. Whip 
into the cool paste eight yolks of eggs beaten light, and then 
the eight whites also beaten light. Drop the paste in great 
spoonfuls, upon buttered (or oiled) paper, taking care not 
to let them touch or run into each other, and bake ten minutes. 

Cream for Filling. — Wet four tablespoonfuls of corn- 
starch with enough milk (or terralac) to work it into a smooth 
paste. Boil the rest of a quart of milk (or terralac). Beat 
two eggs, and add to them the cornstarch and two cupfuls of 
sugar; and, as soon as the milk boils, pour the mixture into 
it gradually, stirring all the time, until it is smooth and thick. 
Add a teaspoonful of butter (or two of palatable oil), and 
when it is mixed in, set the custard aside to cool. Then add 
vanilla or lemon flavoring; with a sharp knife split the puffs 
around, and fill them with the custard. (Harland.) 



315 



PASTRY 



The stove-oven should be quite hot before the pastry is 
put in, and the pastry should be put in the hottest part, or 
removed from it, according as the color is changing too slowly 
or too fast ; and if the color changes too fast even in the cooler 
part, a sheet of paper should be placed above the pastry. 
Stove ovens are more convenient for pastry; though the Dutch 
oven is far from impossible; but this should be well heated 
beforehand, and the fire above should be well kept up, while 
the tire below should be very gentle, hardly more than hot 
ashes. A baker's oven, if near you, is far too hot at first, and 
pies should not be put in until more than an hour later, and 
some cakes not until two or three hours later, and merangs 
and macaroons still later. Do not trust to the baker's over- 
sight of things so much out of his line. The materials used 
for pastry (butter, eggs, flour) should all be of the best qual- 
ity; pastry is hard to make in a place either very cold or 
very warm. The implements needed are few: the rolling-pin 
of hardwood about as thick as your arm, at most thirteen 
inches long (there are now glass rolling-pins) ; some large and 
small moulds, a few pie-plates, some paste-cutters. To pre- 
vent the pastry from sticking to the hands, table or rolling- 
pin, sprinkle them with a little flour. To prevent it from 
sticking to the mould or pie-plate, coat them with a little 
butter or oil. Some words need explanation: gilding is coat- 
ing the pastry, by means of a camel's hair brush, or a feather, 
with egg-yolk diluted by a little water, or, for slight coloring, 
as in macaroons, with water alone; frosting, or glazing, is 
covering with a thin layer of sugar, by sprinkling with pow- 
dered sugar mixed with one-fourth of arrowroot, taking the 
pastry for the purpose from the oven when almost cooked, 
and returning it to the oven for a few minutes. There are 
three principal kinds of paste: Sand-paste, short paste and 
puff-paste. (Fr.) 

Sand-Paste (so-called because it breaks in the mouth into 
little particles like sand) is made by mixing together a pound 
of flour, half a pound of butter, two eggs and a teaspoonful 
of salt; and forming a lump and rolling it out. (Fr.) 

Short-Paste is, in making, broken into pieces and united 
again, or rolled out, folded over and rolled out again. The 
quantity of butter, eggs (sometimes there are no eggs at all) 



316 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

and water varies according to the degree of delicacy desired, 
but most commonly you take a pound of flour, half a pound of 
butter, one egg, a cupful of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt. 
They are all mixed together, the paste is kneaded, and rolled 
out. (Fr.) 

French Puff Paste. — Make a hole in the middle of a 
pound of the best flour; put into it some butter as large as 
a green walnut, two teaspoonfuls of fine salt, the white of an 
egg (reserving the yolk and two teaspoonfuls of water for 
gilding the pieces of puff paste that you make) ; little by little 
mix in the flour, and make a paste; collect it into a lump, 
cover it with a cloth, and let it rest twenty minutes. The 
paste should be rather soft. Then slightly flour a table, and 
roll out the paste to twice the thickness of a quarter-dollar. 
Flatten out in a single piece in a wet cloth three-quarters of 
a pound of the best butter broad enough to cover one-half 
of the sheet of paste; place the butter so flattened out upon 
the paste; fold the paste over upon itself, so as fully to cover 
the butter; roll out the paste again; fold it in four; that is 
called one turn, and let it rest a quarter of an hour. Repeat 
this ojDeration six times in summer, and seven times in winter; 
leaving an interval of a quarter of an hour between each two 
turns. Each time sprinkle the table with a little flour, to pre- 
vent sticking. Five minutes after the six or seven turns, you 
can use the puff paste. If you desire paste that rises less, 
and forms fewer layers, you need only roll it out fewer times, 
and leave shorter intervals between them. The butter should 
not be too firm, nor too soft, but should be of about the same 
consistency as the paste. In warm weather, then, cool the 
butter in cold water; and use cold water for the paste and 
do the work in a cool place; in very cold weather, use water 
a little warm, and work in a place that is not too cold. The 
oven, too, should be all ready to receive the paste when it is 
ready; for, if the paste had to wait, it would not play its 
part rightly in the cooking. (Fr.) 

American Puff Paste. — For every pound of the best 
fresh butter, well washed in two cold waters, and freed from 
salt and milk, and cooled with ice, allow a pound, or a quart, 
of superfine flour. Divide the butter into four quarters. Use 
the first quarter as described under plain paste (see the next 
receipt, below) ; divide the other three quarters into six pieces, 



WHEAT. 317 

or into nine. Proceed successively with each piece essentially 
as there described, but lift the dough from the pan and lay 
it on the board with a knife, and after rolling it out into a 
thin sheet distribute one of the six or nine pieces of butter, 
divided into small bits, all over it at equal distances, fold 
up the sheet, roll out thin again, always rolling from you, 
and repeat the process till the butter is all used. Then fold 
the sheet once more; leave it on a plate in a cool place until 
ready to use it; then, divide it into as many pieces as you wish 
sheets of paste; roll out each one, and put it into a buttered 
plate or patty-pan. Bake in a moderate oven; but rather 
quick than slow; and without admitting air. Eat the same 
day. (Leslie.) 

Plain Paste. — All paste should be made in a very cool 
place, as heat makes it heavy. It is far more difficult to get 
it light in summer than in winter. A marble slab is much 
better to roll it on than a paste-board. For pastry or cakes 
it is well to wash the butter in very cold water, and squeeze 
and press out all the salt, as salt is injurious to paste. None 
but the very best butter should be taken for pastry or cakes, 
as any unpleasant taste is always increased by baking. The 
flour for paste should always be superfine. The paste may 
be baked in deep dishes or in soup plates. For shells to be 
baked empty and afterwards filled with stewed fruit or sweet- 
meats, deep plates of block-tin with very broad edges are best. 
If you use patty-pans, the flatter they are the better. Paste 
always rises higher and is more perfectly light and flaky, when 
unconfined at the sides while baking. To take it out easily, 
the dishes or tins should be well buttered. To make a nice 
plain paste: Sift three pints of superfine flour, by rubbing it 
through a sieve into a deep pan. Cut up a quarter of a pound 
of fresh butter into the flour, and rub it fine with your hands. 
Mix in gradually as much cold water as will make a rather 
stiff dough, and then knead it slightly. Use as little water 
as possible, or the paste will be tough. Sprinkle a little flour 
on your paste-board, lay the lump of dough upon it, and knead 
it a very short time. Flour it, and roll it out into a very thin 
sheet, always rolling from you. Flour the rolling-pin to pre- 
vent its sticking. Take a second quarter-pound of butter, and 
with your thumb spread it all over the sheet of paste. If 
your hand is warm, use a knife instead of your thumb; for, 



318 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

if the butter oils, the paste will be heavy. When you have 
put on the layer of butter, sprinkle it with a very little flour, 
and with your hands roll up the paste as you would a sheet 
of paper. Then flatten it with the rolling-pin, and roll it out 
a second time into a thin sheet. Cover it, as before, with a 
layer of a third quarter-pound of butter, and again roll it up 
into a scroll. Flatten it again, put on a layer of a fourth 
quarter-pound of butter, flour it slightly, and again roll up the 
sheet. Then cut the scroll into as many pieces as you want 
sheets for your dishes or patty-pans. Roll out each piece 
almost an inch thick. Flour the dishes, lay the paste lightly 
on them, notch the edges, and bake to a light brown. The 
oven must be moderate. If it is too hot, the paste will bake 
before it has sufficiently risen. If too cold, it will scarcely 
rise at all, and will be white and clammy. It must be baked 
in a close oven, where no air can reach it. All pastry is best 
when fresh. After the first day, it loses much of its light- 
ness, and is therefore more unwholesome. Common pie 
crust for family use can be made in the same way; only, 
use two quarts of flour, and divide the pound of butter into 
two halves, applying each half in the way just described for 
the first two quarter-pounds, rolling out into a sheet and roll- 
ing up into a scroll, or simply folding up and rolling out. 
(Leslie.) 

Paste without Butter. — -One pound of dry flour; one 
teaspoonful of baking-powder ; and two tablespoonfuls of fine 
salad oil. Mix the baking-powder well with the flour, adding 
the salad oil, and enough cold water to form a paste. Roll it 
out, and spread a little oil over; dredge with flour, and fold 
it in three; then roll it, adding oil and flour as before, and 
when it has been rolled again, it will be ready for use. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Pies. — Pies may be made with any sort of paste. It is a 
fault to roll it out too thin ; for, if it has not substance enough, 
it will, when baked, be dry and tasteless. For a pie, divide 
the paste into two sheets ; spread one of them over the bottom 
and sides of a deep, well-buttered dish. Next, put in the 
fruit or other ingredients (heaping it higher in the centre), 
and then place the other sheet of paste on the top, as a lid 
or cover; pressing the edges closely down, and afterwards 
crimping, or notching, them with a sharp small knife. In 



WHEAT. 319 

making pies of juicy fruit, it is well to put on the centre of 
the under crust a common teacup, laying the fruit around it 
and over it. The juice will collect under the cup, and so 
not be likely to run out from beneath the edges of the paste. 
There should be plenty of sugar strewn among the fruit, as 
you put it into the pie. Preserves should never be put into 
covered pies. The proper way is to lay them in already baked 
shells of paste. All pies are best the day they are baked. If 
kept twenty-four hours, the paste falls, and becomes com- 
paratively hard, heavy and unwholesome. If the fruit is not 
ripe it should be stewed with sugar, and then allowed to get 
cold, before it is put in the pie. With fruit pies, always have 
sugar on the table, lest they be not found sweet enough. 
(Leslie.) 

Pie Paste. — For ten or twelve persons, take half a pound, 
or a pint, of flour, a quarter-pound of butter, an egg, a quar- 
ter-cupful of water, half a teaspoonful of fine salt. Make a 
hole in the middle of the flour, put into it the egg, the butter, 
the salt and the water; moisten and mix the whole well to- 
gether ; collect it into a lump ; roll it out to the thickness of 
a quarter-dollar; with this paste line the bottom and sides 
of a pie plate, slightly buttered or floured, to prevent stick- 
ing. A pie plate twelve inches in diameter is enough for ten 
or twelve persons. It is well to have the plates as thin as 
possible, so that the bottom and sides of the pie may cook 
properly. Cut off any part of the paste that overruns the 
edge of the plate; and line the interior with fruit. But it is 
best to cook the paste before lining it with fruit; lest the 
paste become heavy and less crisp. The paste may be pricked 
here and there to prevent its rising from the bottom, in the 
unfilled baking. (Fr.) 

Paste for Pumpkin and Custard Pies. — Take four ounces 
of butter to a quart of flour, rub them well together, but do it 
quickly, wet it with cold water, and incorporate it into one 
mass. The paste for pumpkin and custard pies needs to be 
firm, not flaky, to hold the contents of the pies. (Haskell.) 

Frangipane. — Put two spoonfuls of flour into a sauce-pan; 
moisten with two or three eggs; add, little by little, a pint 
Df milk (or terralac) ; when the whole is well wet, put it over 
the fire, and let it cook a quarter of an hour, stirring all the 
time, to prevent its sticking to the sauce-pan; add two ounces 



320 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of sugar, a little burnt orangeflower (p. 364), and some 
crushed macaroons. The frangipane is used for pies and 
tarts. (Fr.) 

Almond Frangipane. — Add to the frangipane just de- 
scribed, when it is cold, three ounces of almonds and half an 
ounce of bitter almonds that have both been reduced to paste 
in a mortar. During the pounding in the mortar the almonds 
should be moistened now and then with some drops of orange- 
flower water to prevent their turning to oil. This frangipane 
is likewise used for pies and tarts. (Fr.) 

Frangipane Pie. — Make and arrange some pie-paste in 
the way already described (p. 319). Fill it with frangipane 
(just described). Bake half an hour. (Fr.) 



CEREALS. 321 

RYE. 

Rye is darker than wheat, and, as its gluten is less 
tenacious and elastic than wheat gluten, its bread is not only 
less white, but less light. Rye flour, however, is often mixed 
with wheat flour, to make bread ; and also often mixed equally 
with Indian corn, or maize, flour or meal, for making brown 
bread ; and sometimes all three, wheat, rye and maize, are 
mixed. 

Rye Bread. — Make rye bread like wheat, but take care it 
does not sour; it sours more readily than wheat bread or 
Indian. (Haskell.) Take a quart of warm water, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a cup of molasses, and a cup of home 
brewed yeast, or half as much of distillery yeast. Add flour 
till you can knead it, and do it very thoroughly. (Beecher.) 

Rye (or Wheat) Drop Cakes. — One pint of milk (or 
terralac), or water, one pinch of salt, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, three well beaten eggs ; stir in rye, or fine, or unbolted 
wheat flour, to a thick batter, bake in cups or patties half an 
hour. (Beecher.) 



322 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN. 

Maize, or Indian corn, unlike wheat and rye, contains no 
tenacious, gluten-forming protein, and therefore cannot by it- 
self make a light loaf raised with yeast. It contains a little 
less protein than wheat, but is, nevertheless, a nourishing 
food, nearly as well balanced in composition, for human food, 
as either wheat, rye, or barley, and better in that respect 
(that is, richer in protein) than rice, or buckwheat; it is some- 
times mixed with wheat or rye flour, or both, to make bread. 
Maize is not only used as meal or flour but as hominy (whole 
kernels), samp or hominy grits (crushed kernels), and hulled 
corn or lye-hominy (the kernels with the skin removed after 
steeping in a weak solution of lye). 

Hominy. — The large hominy, so common in our Southern 
States, is often served up as a vegetable, either boiled or fried. 
Fine hominy (hominy grits, or samp), more common at the 
north, and likewise often used as a vegetable, should be thor- 
oughly washed, and cooked in boiling water, one gill of hominy 
to a pint of water, with a teaspoonful of salt added. The 
boiled hominy, when cold, may be cut in slices and fried. The 
slices will brown more readily, if first rolled in flour. (Parloa.) 

Hominy Porridge. — One pound of hominy; three pints of 
milk (or terralac) ; and a quarter of an ounce of salt. Steep 
the hominy in water twelve hours ; then pour off the water not 
absorbed; add the milk (or terralac) and salt, and set the 
whole in a slow oven two hours, till all the milk (or terralac) 
is absorbed; pour it into saucers, and serve up with molasses 
and milk. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Hominy Fritters. — Half a pound of cooked hominy; add 
one tablespoonful of flour. Mix the flour with the hominy; 
season with pepper and salt; fry it with butter (or oil) in 
fritters ; and serve them up with brown or mustard sauce. 
Hominy when cold, may be cut in slices, seasoned and fried 
as above described, served up in the same way, and garnished 
with crisped parsley. To prepare the hominy, first wash it 
thoroughly, and let it stay in the water ten or twelve hours; 
pour the water away, and boil it quickly about three hours in 
fresh water, allowing about five pints to a pound of hominy; 
stir occasionally, and remove any light particles that may rise 
to the surface. If put into the oven in a covered earthen stew- 



MAIZE. 323 

pot it may be cooked equally well, and when cold may be 
used in various ways as required. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Parched and Popped Corn. — Corn has been parched to 
improve its keeping quality, by killing any bacteria present, 
and by complete dryness discouraging the growth of moulds 
and other forms of vegetable life. If maize, especially certain 
varieties, be exposed (say, in a long handled wire-gauze box) 
to a great heat, over a good bed of coals, the outer skin is 
burst open like a small bomb shell, by the expansion into steam 
of the moisture in the white starch cells within. (Woods and 
Snyder.) Such popped corn is eaten, either alone, or sprinkled 
with salt, or put into milk (or terralac) which supplies not 
only the otherwise somewhat lacking protein, but the still more 
deficient fat. Popped corn is also made into cakes by stick- 
ing the kernels together with a very slight admixture of mo- 
lasses, a less needed addition of carbohydrates, which would 
be further improved by adding a little butter, or perhaps still 
better, peanut butter, rich in protein as well as fat. 

Corn-meal Gruel. — Put three large tablespoonfuls of 
maize-meal (or oatmeal) into a large bowl, and add a quart 
of water, a little at a time, mixing and bruising the meal with 
the back of a spoon. As you proceed, pour off the liquid into 
another bowl, every time, before adding fresh water to the 
meal, till you have used it all up. Then boil the mixture 
twenty minutes, stirring all the while; add a little salt. Then 
strain the gruel, and sweeten it. A piece of butter may be 
stirred into it; and, if thought proper, a little wine and nut- 
meg. It should be eaten warm. (Leslie.) See also Rice- 
flour Gruel (p. 331). 

Water Gruel. — Scald half a cupful of freshly ground 
corn meal, and a tablespoonful of flour made into a paste, 
boil twenty minutes or more, and add salt, sugar and nutmeg. 
Oatmeal gruel made in the same way is excellent. (Beecher.) 

Hasty Pudding or Mush. — Stir, a handful at a time, into 
a pot of boiling water, over the fire, enough Indian meal, 
preferably of yellow corn, not ground too fine, to make a batter 
just thick enough to hop and sputter while boiling hard. Be- 
tween the handfuls stir very hard, with a round stick flattened 
at one end, so that there may be no lumps. Add a little salt. 
Never add meal after the batter is all once in. Boil till it is 



324 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

so thick that the stick will stand in it. Boil slowly, stirring 
often; it burns easily, and is spoiled if scorched. To be whole- 
some and nutritious, it needs long boiling, not in haste; three 
or four hours would not be too long. Eat it warm; either 
with milk (or terralac), or cover your plate with it, make a 
hole in the middle, put some butter in the hole, and fill up 
with molasses. " What they did not eat that night, the queen 
next morning fried." For that purpose, it may be cut into 
slices half an inch thick and fried in butter, until not only 
brown, but crisp ; or the slices may be floured, and, fried on 
a griddle, or baked in an oven. (Leslie, Haskell, Beecher.) 

Johnny Cake or Pone. — Make a hole in the middle of a 
quart of Indian meal sifted into a pan, and pour into the 
hole a pint of warm water. Mix the meal and water gradually 
into a batter; adding a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the batter 
very hard, and for a long time, until it becomes quite light. 
Then spread it thick and even on a stout piece of smooth board. 
Place it upright on the hearth before a clear fire, with, say, a 
flat-iron to support the board behind; and bake it well. Cut 
it into squares, and split and butter them hot. (Leslie.) The 
baking may be done on a hot, greased griddle, and this form 
is called hoe cake. 

Indian Bread. — Beat two eggs very light, and mix them 
with one pint of sour milk; add a teaspoonful of soda or 
saleratus (or terralac and cream of tartar instead of the sour 
milk) and stir in one pint of Indian meal, and one table- 
spoonful of melted butter ; beat a long time, and bake in com- 
mon bake-pans in a quick oven. Eat it hot or cold. (Haskell.) 

Wheat and Indian Bread. — Always scald cornmeal. Melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter in one quart of hot water; add a 
teaspoonful of salt and a cupful of sugar. Thicken with corn- 
meal and one third as much fine flour, or unbolted flour, or 
middlings. Two well beaten eggs improve it. Make it as stiff 
as can be easily stirred with a spoon; or knead it like wheat 
bread. If raising with yeast, put in a cupful of home-brewed 
yeast, or half as much of distillery yeast. If raising with 
powders, mix two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar thoroughly 
with the meal, and one teaspoonful of soda in the water. 
(Beecher.) Put the dough into a large pan; when the dough 
shows signs of cracking, bake it in a stove-oven two hours, 



MAIZE. 825 

covering the top with paper; and when it is done, close the 
damper, and let the bread stay in the oven until morning. 
(Haskell.) 

Rye and Indian Bread. — Sift three pints of rye flour with 
four quarts of Indian meal, add a little salt, stir in boiling 
water until the spoon will stand upright, let it cool, add a 
small cupful of home-made hop yeast quite fresh; let it rise 
in the pan in which it is to be baked, until it shows signs of 
cracking; then bake it in the way just directed for wheat and 
Indian bread. (Haskell.) 

Rye and Indian Milk Bread. — Sift two quarts of rye 
and two quarts of Indian meal, and mix them well together. 
Boil three pints of milk (or terralac) ; pour it boiling hot on 
the meal; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, and stir the whole 
very hard. Let it stand till merely lukewarm, and then stir 
in half a pint of good fresh yeast, or less, if fresh from the 
brewery. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and set it to 
rise in a pan, covering it with a thick cloth, near the fire. 
When it is quite light, and has cracked all over the top, make 
it into two loaves, and bake them two hours and a half in a 
moderate oven. (Leslie.) 

Boston or Eastern Brown (Rye and Indian) Bread. — 
One quart of rye, and one quart of cornmeal, one cup of mo- 
lasses, half a cup of distillery yeast or twice as much home- 
brewed; one teaspoonful of soda and one teaspoonful of salt. 
Wet with hot water, till it is as stiff as can be stirred with a 
spoon. Put into a large brown pan, and bake four or five 
hours. It is good toasted, and improved by adding boiled 
squash. (Beecher.) 

Wheat, Rye and Indian Bread. — To one quart of warm 
water add one teaspoonful of salt, half a cupful of distillery 
yeast, or twice as much home-brewed, and half a cupful of 
molasses ; and thicken with equal parts of wheat and rye flour 
and cornmeal. (Beecher.) 

Indian Mush Cakes. — Into three pints of cold water (or, 
better, milk or terralac) in a pan stir gradually a quart of 
sifted Indian meal mixed with half a pint of wheat flour and 
a small teaspoonful of salt. Stir hard at the last. Bake im- 
mediately in cakes as large as a saucer on a hot griddle. Eat 
them with butter, or molasses. (Leslie.) 



326 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Indian Flappers. — Beat four eggs very light, and stir 
them by degrees into a quart of milk, in turn with a pint of 
sifted Indian meal mixed with a handful of wheat flour, and 
a small teaspoonful of salt. Bake at once on a hot griddle, 
allowing a large ladleful of batter to each cake of uniform 
size. Send the cakes to the table hot, buttered and cut in 
half. (Leslie.) 

Indian Batter Cakes. — Mix together a quart of Indian 
meal (the yellow meal is the best for all purposes) and a 
handful of wheat flour. Warm a quart of milk (or terralac), 
and stir into it a small teaspoonful of salt, and two large 
tablespoonfuls of the best fresh yeast. Beat three eggs very 
light, and stir them gradually into the milk, in turn with the 
meal. Cover it, and set it to rise for three or four hours. 
When it is quite light, bake it in cakes on a griddle. Butter 
them, cut them across, and send them to the table hot, with 
molasses in a sauce-boat. Should the batter chance to sour 
before baking, stir into it about a saltspoonful of pearlash 
dissolved in a little lukewarm water; and let it stand half an 
hour longer before baking. (Leslie.) 

Indian Muffins. — Sift and mix together a pint and a 
half of yellow Indian meal and a handful of wheat flour. Melt 
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (or a cupful of oil) in a 
quart of milk (or terralac). Beat four eggs very light, and 
stir into them alternately (a little at a time of each) the milk, 
when it is quite cold, and the meal ; adding a small teaspoonful 
of salt. The whole must be beaten long and hard. Then 
butter (or oil) some muffin rings; set them on a hot griddle, 
and pour some of the batter into each. Send the muffins to 
the table hot, and split them by pulling them open with your 
fingers, as a knife will make them heavy. Eat them with 
butter, oil, molasses or honey. (Leslie.) 

Indian Pudding without Eggs. — Boil some cinnamon in 
a quart of milk (or terralac), and then strain it. While the 
milk is hot, stir into it a pint of molasses, and then add by 
degrees a quart, or more, of Indian meal, so as to make a thick 
batter. It will be much improved by the grated peel and 
juice of a large lemon or orange. Tie it very securely in a 
thick cloth, leaving room (about one-third) for it to swell, and 
pasting up the tying place with a lump of flour and water. 
Put it into a pot of boiling water (having ready a kettle of 



MAIZE. 327 

boiling water to fill it up as it boils away). Set it over a 
good fire, and keep it boiling bard for four or five hours. Eat 
it warm with molasses and butter. A very economical and not 
unpalatable pudding. (Leslie.) Or: Three pints of milk (or 
terralac), ten heaping tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, three 
gills of molasses, butter as large as an egg (or four spoonfuls 
of oil). Scald the meal with the milk, stir in the butter and 
molasses, and bake four or five hours. This can be boiled. 
(Beecher.) 

Boiled Indian Pudding. — Mix a quarter-pound of butter 
(or 1/2 cupful of oil) with a pint of sifted Indian meal. Boil 
a quart of milk (or terralac), with some pieces of broken cin- 
namon; strain it, and, while it is hot, stir in gradually the 
meal and butter; add half a pint of molasses. Cover the mix- 
ture and set it away for an hour; then put it to cool. Beat 
six eggs, and stir them gradually into the mixture, when it is 
cold; add a grated nutmeg and the grated peel of a lemon. 
Tie the pudding in a cloth that has been dipped in hot water 
and floured; and leave plenty of room (say, one-third) for it 
to swell. Secure it well at the tying place, lest the water 
should get in, which would infallibly spoil the pudding. Put 
it into a pot of boiling water (to be refilled as it boils away), 
and boil it four hours at least; but five or six would be better. 
Do not take it out of the pot, till immediately before it is 
wanted. Eat it with wine sauce, or with molasses and butter 
(or oil). (Leslie.) 

Baked Indian Pudding. — Cut up a quarter-pound of but- 
ter (or use a cupful of oil) in a pint of molasses, and warm 
them together, till the butter is melted. Boil a quart of milk 
(or terralac), and, while it is scalding hot, pour it slowly 
over a pint of sifted Indian meal, and stir in the molasses and 
butter. Cover it, and let it steep for an hour. Then take off 
the cover, and set the mixture to cool. When it is cold, beat 
six eggs, and stir them gradually into it; add a tablespoonful 
of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg; and the grated peel of a 
lemon, stir the whole very hard; put it into a buttered (or 
oiled) dish, and bake it two hours. Serve it up hot, and eat 
it with wine sauce, or with butter (or oil) and molasses. 
(Leslie.) 

Corn Starch Boiled Custard. — Mix two tablespoonfuls 
and a half of corn starch with a little milk (or terralac), add- 



328 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

ing some flavoring, nutmeg, cinnamon, or according to taste; 
and beat up two eggs; stir both the starch and the eggs into 
the rest of a quart of milk (or terralac), heated nearly to 
boiling, and add a little butter (or oil) and salt; boil two or 
three minutes, stirring briskly. (Hygeia Food Co.) 

Corn Starch Ice Cream. — The custard just described, 
omitting the butter and salt, may be frozen for ice cream. 
(Hygeia Food Co.) 

Corn Starch Blanc - Mange. — Dissolve five table- 
spoonfuls of corn starch in a little cold milk, and add it to a 
quart of nearly boiling milk; stir it until it boils; boil about 
five minutes; sweeten and flavor to taste; pour into cups, or 
dishes of any form, to cool. Eat it cold, with cream or pre- 
serves. (Hygeia Food Co.) 

Baked Corn Starch Pudding. — Dissolve four table- 
spoonfuls of corn starch in a little cold milk (or terralac), 
and add it to the rest of a quart of nearly boiling milk (or 
terralac) ; stir it, until it boils ; boil about five minutes, sweeten 
and flavor to taste; let it cool; stir up with it thoroughly two 
or three well beaten eggs, bake in a buttered dish half an 
hour. Eat it cold. (Hygeia Food Co.) 

Boiled Corn Starch Pudding. — Mix four tablespoonfuls 
of corn starch with a little milk, and add two or three well- 
beaten eggs and a little salt; stir the mixture into the rest of 
a quart of milk heated nearly to boiling; boil four minutes, 
stirring briskly. Eat it warm with a sauce. (Hygeia Food 
Co.) 

Corn Starch Pudding. — Mix four tablespoonfuls of corn 
starch with a little cold milk (or terralac), and stir it into the 
rest of a quart of milk (or terralac) heated to boiling; boil 
three minutes, stirring all the time; add a tablespoonful of 
butter, take from the fire, and set away until cold; then stir 
in four well beaten eggs with three quarters of a cup of sugar 
and some nutmeg, or cinnamon, or both, beating to a smooth 
custard. Bake half an hour in a buttered dish. Eat it cold, 
with powdered sugar sifted over it. (Harland.) 



829 



RICE. 



Rice is nearly as rich in protein and nearly as well pro- 
portioned in its nutritious components as maize; and is when 
well boiled, remarkably easy to digest. The most important 
and altogether essential point in regard to cooking rice is far 
too lightly passed over in most cookery books ; it is the wash- 
ing of the rice at the outset. Jt should not be merely rinsed 
several times, as commonly directed, but must be carefully and 
strongly rubbed in water many times, until the frequently 
renewed water runs off clean. The rice, as bought, is covered, 
and on its surface darkened, with a microscopic mould, or mus- 
tiness, or closely adhering dust, that is not wholly removed by 
mere rinsing. The effect of the thorough rubbing or scrubbing 
is very visible in completely whitening the rice; and of course 
there must at the same time be an improvement of the flavor. 
This washing is well understood and universally practiced in 
Japan; but in America is generally not at all comprehended 
nor performed, and the rice on the table is for that reason 
visibly dark colored and naturally less satisfactory in taste. 

Puffed Rice. — It is said that puffed rice is made by heat- 
ing rice under pressure at a fairly high temperature, and then 
suddenly diminishing the pressure. (Woods and Snyder.) 
Rice can be popped, like maize. 

Boiled Rice. — There are two ways to boil rice, each good 
for its own purpose. 

1. — In eating rice with " chopsticks," as in Japan and 
China, it is convenient and desirable to have the rice grains 
sticking together in clots or clumps of adherent masses. The 
rice is, therefore, boiled in a comparatively small quantity of 
water, enough to moisten it throughout when swollen to about 
four times its original bulk. The water is allowed to boil 
away entirely, in about twenty or thirty minutes from the 
first boil according to the age or variety of the rice, until the 
rice is thoroughly soft, as tested with the fingers, but not with 
its kernels burst open, as they become in very prolonged boil- 
ing. None of the water is poured away, carrying with it any 
portion of the nutriment of the rice. 

2. — But in India and western countries, boiled rice to ac- 
company curries and to be eaten with a dessert spoon, is 
made loose, with kernels dry and not sticking together, yet 



330 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

thoroughly soft. For that purpose, the rice is boiled in at 
least two and a half, or, according to Mrs. Rorer, twelve times 
its bulk of water with a little salt, say a teaspoonful to three 
quarts of water. The rice should be put into the water, some 
say, while the water is cold ; or should be steeped in cold water 
before being put into boiling water. She recommends putting 
it into water already boiling apparently in order to keep it 
constantly in motion, so as not to stick together. The boiling 
should be rapid. When the rice has become soft, drain away 
the water, either by pouring it off from the sauce-pan or by 
putting the rice into a colander. Then put the rice, in the 
saucepan, or colander, in a warm place on the stove, or in the 
oven, for a few minutes, to drive off the surface moisture, but 
not let the rice become hard and dry. 

Parloa's Boiled Rice. — Wash a cupful of rice in several 
waters, rubbing the grains between the hands to remove all 
the dirt. Put the washed rice into a stew-pan with two cupfuls 
and a half of water and a teaspoonful of salt. Cover the pan, 
and boil the rice for twenty minutes, with care not to let it 
burn. Then put the pan on a tripod, or ring, and cover the 
rice with a fold of cheese-cloth. Let it continue to cook in 
this way an hour; then turn into a hot vegetable dish. The 
rice will be tender, dry and sweet, and each grain will be 
separate. During all the cooking, the rice must not be stirred. 
If a tablespoonful of butter is cut up and sprinkled over the 
rice when it has cooked twenty minutes, the dish will be much 
improved. (Parloa.) 

Cochin China Boiled Rice. — Paul d'Enjoy says (" Bul- 
letins de la Societe d' Anthropologic de Paris," 1903, No. 4, 
p. 474) that the Chinese (probably of Cochin China) cook the 
rice in a tightly closed metallic vessel with a small quantity 
of water, which a mild fire constantly watched turns to steam, 
what the French call smothered cooking; so that the grains of 
rice swell, each one detached from the others, forming a light 
rice, scarcely moist, of which the kernels can be separated one 
by one. 

English Boiled Rice. — Pick and wash in warm water a 
pound of the best rice; set it on the fire with two quarts of 
boiling water and a small teaspoonful of salt, boil it till about 
three parts done (fifteen minutes), and drain it in a sieve 
immediately. Butter a pan; put in the rice; place the lid on 



RICE. 331 

tightly ; set the pan on a trevet in a moderate oven, till the 
rice is perfectly tender; and serve it up in a vegetable dish. 
Prepared in this way every grain will be separate and quite 
white. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Rice with Onions. — Pick and wash the rice in warm 
water; drain and put it in a quart pan with three cupfuls 
of boiling water, two onions chopped fine, and a little salt; 
place it on the fire with the lid on, and in about fifteen minutes 
the rice will have absorbed the water; take it off the fire (as 
it is liable to burn, if left on after the water is absorbed), 
and place it near the fire ten minutes longer. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Rice Puff. — For ten or twelve persons: Wash well a 
quarter-pound of rice; put it into a sauce-pan with a quart 
of milk (or terralac) ; put in also the quarter of a lemon-zest, 
or half a vanilla pod, as you like; cook with a gentle fire, 
and without stirring, until the rice bursts, about an hour; at 
the middle of the cooking, add a little salt and half a pound 
of sugar; when the rice has fully burst, take it from the fire, 
and pass it through the strainer; flavor it with a spoonful of 
orangeflower water, if you have put in neither lemon-zest, nor 
vanilla, nor any other flavor ; add six egg-yolks, then the whites 
beaten to a very stiff froth; mix the whole well, and pour it 
into a deep dish slightly buttered. The dish should be only 
three quarters full. The mixing with the eggs should be 
quickly done, lest the whites fall. Put it into the not too 
hot oven for 18 or 20 minutes. When it is well risen and of 
a fine color, sprinkle with sugar, and serve up at once, for 
the puffs very quickly fall back. (Fr.) 

Rice Flour (or Corn Meal) Gruel. — In a teacup of cold 
water, stir a moderate tablespoonful of rice flour (or a large 
tablespoonful of corn meal) stir the mixture into a quart of 
cold water in a stew-pan; add a little salt; and boil gently 
fifteen minutes, stirring constantly for five; it can be enriched 
with a spoonful of sweet cream, sweetened or spiced to suit. 
For a convalescent, boil raisins in the gruel; add sugar, nut- 
meg, and a little butter (or oil), break into the gruel a nice 
fresh cracker, or toasted bread. (Haskell.) 

Rice Milk. — A quarter of a pound of rice, and three pints 
of milk (or terralac). Wash and pick the rice, and soak it 



332 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

one hour in cold water; then pour off the water, and set the 
rice on the fire with the milk (or terralac), and a little cin- 
namon, stirring it frequently; when enough boiled, mix a des- 
sertspoonful of flour with a little water, and stir it well in, 
adding sugar and salt. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Rice Soup. — For six: After washing five spoonfuls of rice 
well in warm water put it into three pints of water, and add 
some salt ; let it cook gently an hour ; at the moment of serving 
up, add a piece of butter as large as an egg, (or four spoonfuls 
of oil), and thicken with the yolks of two eggs, or with the 
yolk of one egg, and one or two spoonfuls of cream. Thicken 
the soup in the following manner: When the rice has burst 
open, set a few spoonfuls of the soup aside to cool. When it 
is cold, mix it well with the yolks of two eggs, or with the yolk 
of one egg and the cream. Take the soup from the fire, and 
add the thickening little by little, stirring well with a spoon. 
(To separate the yolk from the white: break the egg carefully 
so as not to break the yolk, and separate the white by passing 
the yolk from one-half of the shell to the other repeatedly, 
until the separation is complete.) (Fr.) 

Rice Soup with Milk or Terralac. — For six: Five tea- 
spoonfuls of rice, three pints of milk (or terralac). Wash the 
rice in warm water; put it with the milk over a gentle fire; 
season with a pinch of salt. Let the rice burst " without 
stirring." It needs an hour and a half. Some cooks put sugar 
into this soup before serving it up ; but it is better not to do so, 
and to offer the guests some powdered sugar, so that each one 
can sweeten according to his own fancy. (Fr.) 

Rice Pudding without Eggs. — Stir half a pint of well 
washed and drained rice into a quart of rich milk (or ter- 
ralac), or of cream and milk mixed (or terralac and palatable 
oil), adding a quarter of a pound of sugar and a tablespoonful 
of powdered cinnamon. Put it into a deep pan, and bake it 
two hours or more. When done, the rice will be perfectly 
soft, which you may ascertain by taking out a trial teaspoonful 
at the edge of the pudding. Eat it cold. (Leslie.) 

Boiled Rice Pudding without Milk or Eggs. — Six 
ounces of rice; and two ounces of dried currants. Wash and 
pick the rice, put it into a sauce-pan with three cupfuls of cold 
water; adding a little salt; let it boil gently, till all the water 



rice. 383 

is absorbed; then add the currants, or Sultana raisins, care- 
fully washed and picked. Butter a pint basin, put in the 
rice, cover with a cloth, and let it boil one hour. (" Vege- 
tarian Cookery.") 

Boiled Rice Pudding. — Mix a quarter-pound of ground 
rice with a pint of milk (or terralac), and simmer it over 
hot coals; stirring all the time to prevent lumps or burning 
at the bottom. When it is thick and smooth, take it off, and 
pour it into an earthen pan. Stir into it a mixture of a 
quarter-pound of sugar and a quarter-pound of butter with 
half a pint of cream, or very rich milk (or terralac) ; add a 
powdered nutmeg, and the grated rind of two lemons, or half 
a teaspoonful of strong oil of lemon. Beat the yolks of six 
eggs with the whites of two only. When the eggs are quite 
light, mix them gradually with the other ingredients, and stir 
the whole very hard. Put it into a large buttered bowl or 
pudding mould ; and tie a cloth tightly over the top, so that 
no water can get in; and boil two hours. Turn it into a dish 
and serve it up warm. Eat it with sweetened cream, flavored 
with a glass of brandy, or white wine, and a grated nutmeg. 
(Leslie.) 

Baked Rice Pudding. — Pick over and thoroughly wash a 
pint of rice, and boil it soft. Drain off the water, and let 
the rice dry and get cold. Then mix with it two ounces of 
butter (or four spoonfuls of oil) and four ounces of sugar, 
and stir it into a quart of rich milk (or terralac). Beat four 
eggs very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Stir 
in, at the last, a tablespoonful of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. 
Bake it an hour in a deep dish. (Leslie.) 

French Plain Rice Pudding. — Thoroughly wash half a 
pound of rice; put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of milk 
(or terralac) ; add a quarter of the yellow rind of a lemon, 
or a vanilla capsule, according to taste; cook, with a gentle 
fire, without stirring, until the rice bursts, it will take fully 
an hour; when the cooking is half done, add a little salt, a 
quarter-pound of sugar and some butter as large as an English 
walnut (or a spoonful of oil). When the rice is fully burst, 
and quite thick, take it from the fire; remove the lemon-zest, 
or the bit of vanilla ; let the rice cool a little. When it is half 
cold, add to it a tablespoonful of orangeflower water, if you 
have not put in lemon zest, or vanilla, or any other flavoring; 



334 VE3ETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

overturn into a dish; sprinkle with powdered sugar, and put 
for twenty minutes into the oven, or into a Dutch oven; take 
out, of a fine color, sprinkle with sugar, and serve up. (Fr.) 
French Rice Pudding. — For ten or twelve persons : Take 
half a pound of rice and a little more than a quart of milk 
(or terralac) ; and cook the rice to bursting in the way just 
described for a plain pudding. When the rice is half cold, 
add two egg-yolks and one white beaten to froth, and mix the 
whole together. Coat a mould with butter; sprinkle upon it 
powdered sugar and powdered rusk; pour upon it the rice 
prepared as just described; cook three quarters of an hour in 
the oven, or in a Dutch oven; let the rice rest a little while 
in the mould, and then overturn it upon a dish. Instead of 
coating the mould with butter and sprinkling the powdered 
rusk, you can melt in the mould two spoonfuls of sugar, until 
the sugar becomes of a fine pale caramel color ; turn the mould 
in every direction, until it is well coated with caramel; let it 
cool a moment, and pour the rice in. This way of coating 
the mould is better than the other; it gives a very delicate 
flavor to the pudding. At the moment of putting the eggs into 
the pudding some raisins and preserved fruits may be added. 
Also, a little rum can be put in; and then there is no need 
to put in any other flavoring, vanilla or orangeflower water. 
If Malaga raisins are used, they should be stoned. The pre- 
served fruits — cedrat, citron, angelica — should be cut in small 
pieces. If you wish to make an altogether distinguished 
pudding of the rice, serve it up surrounded with such a cream 
as is used for the sauce of snowball custard (p. 101). Left- 
over rice pudding is very good cold. Cut it in pieces ; arrange 
them symmetrically around the dish, and pour into the middle 
such a cream as is used for the sauce of snowball custard, 
and flavored with any flavoring you please, orangeflower water, 
vanilla, lemon, or even a little rum, or a little kirsch ; the left- 
over pudding can be eaten with rum : cut it in pieces ; place 
them on a dish ; powder them with sugar ; sprinkle them with 
rum; warm them a little, and serve them up flaming. 
Croquettes, too, can be made of the left-over rice. (Fr.) 

Moulded Rice. — Eight ounces of rice; one saltspoonful of 
salt ; and three pints and a quarter of water. Wash the rice ; 
pour the water upon it; and boil it slowly in a brown basin, 
covered, in the oven, till it becomes tender, and the water is 



RICE. OOO 

absorbed; dip a mould in cold water; pour in the rice, and 
cover with a plate; turn it out, either warm or cold, and serve 
it up with preserved or steAved fruit. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Moulded Ground Rice. — Six ounces of ground rice; two 
ounces of sugar ; six drops of lemon-flavor, or three drops of 
almond-flavor; and one quart of water. Steep the rice in a 
little of the water, while the rest of the water is boiling; then 
add it to the boiling water with the sugar ; boil twenty minutes, 
stirring it all the time ; add the flavor ; dip the mould into cold 
water, pour in the rice, and let it stand till cold; serve it up 
with stewed or preserved fruit. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Rice Croquettes. — Cook and prepare some rice in the 
way just described for French rice pudding; but instead of 
putting it into a mould, make it into little balls not larger 
than an egg ; flour them ; next dip them into one or two eggs 
(whites and yolks) beaten as if for an omelet, and then into 
finely crumbled bread; fry in very hot butter; drain them, 
and serve them up in pyramid form. (Fr.) 

Rice Plum Pudding. — In a pint of milk (or terralac) boil 
three gills (a cup and a half) of well washed whole rice. When 
it is soft, mix into it a quarter-pound of butter (or a cupful of 
oil), and set it aside to cool; and, when it is quite cold, stir it 
into another pint of milk (or terralac). Prepare a pound and 
a half of raisins or dried currants ; if currants, wash and dry 
them ; if raisins, seed them and cut them in half. Dredge them 
well with flour, to prevent their sinking; and prepare also a 
powdered nutmeg, a tablespoonful of mixed mace and cin- 
namon powdered, a wine glass of rosewater, and a wine glass 
of brandy, or white wine. Beat six eggs very light, and stir 
them into the mixture, alternately with a quarter-pound of 
sugar. Then add by degrees the spice and the liquor, and 
lastly stir in, a few at a time, the raisins or dried currants. 
Put the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake it an hour and 
a half. Send it to the table cool. This pudding may be made 
of ground rice using half a pint instead of three gills. (Leslie.) 

Risotto. — Risotto, the Italian dish, is differently made in 
different parts of Italy, and with some variation at any one 
place; but it seems to be essentially a combination of rice and 
cheese with other food. The cheese is a very appropriate 



336 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

addition to rice, making up not only for the rather insufficient 
protein of the rice, but especially for the yet more deficient 
fat, while the abundant carbohydrate of the rice counterbal- 
ances the almost total lack of it in the cheese. As described 
by a certain Genoese, his dish of risotto is made of several 
layers of boiled rice alternating with as many of stewed 
tomatoes (with butter) and of grated Parmesan cheese. Other 
stewed vegetables, however, may be used with the rice and 
cheese, and with or without the tomatoes. The grated cheese 
may also be applied at the table, and is taken for the purpose 
from a saucer with a teaspoon. The cheese seems, among the 
Italians, to be preferred uncooked. 

Milanese Risotto. — Chop up half an onion, and brown 
it to a golden color in a sauce-pan with some butter; add a 
pound of rice and enough broth to boil until the rice bursts, 
and to make it somewhat thicker than a common soup ; add a 
little saffron, taking care that it does not dry on. When the 
rice has burst according to your taste (the Milanese eat it 
half cooked), you mix with it some grated Parmesan cheese 
and a little butter; remove from the fire, mix well, and serve 
up, after it is tastefully seasoned with white pepper and a 
little nutmeg. (Fr.) 

Baked Rice and Cheese, No. 1. — Make a cheese sauce 
with half a pound of cheese, and put alternate layers of it 
and of three cupfuls of cooked rice (or one cupful of uncooked 
rice, first cooking it in three cupfuls of milk or terralac), 
into a. buttered baking-dish; cover with buttered crumbs, and 
bake, until the crumbs are brown. The proteids are equal to 
those of nearly 1% pounds of average beef. If skimmed milk 
is used, the fuel value is nearly equal to that of sy 2 pounds of 
beef; with whole milk, yet more. Estimated cost, 28 cents. 
(Langworthy & Hunt.) 

Baked Rice and Cheese, No. 2. — Put into a buttered 
baking-dish alternate layers of three cupfuls of boiled rice 
(from one of raw rice) and of a quarter-pound of cheese, 
grated, or cut into small pieces ; pour over them enough milk, 
or terralac, to come half way to the top of the rice; cover 
with buttered crumbs and brown. If the rice is cooked in milk, 
either whole or skimmed, and one cup of milk is used to pour 
over it, this dish has as much protein as 1*4 pounds of average 
beef, and a much higher fuel value. (Langworthy and Hunt.) 



337 



BUCKWHEAT. 



Buckwheat is about as lacking in protein and fat as rice 
is, and cheese would, therefore, be an especially suitable ac- 
companiment, and would supply the deficient protein and fat. 
In Japan, buckwheat is made into spaghetti, and boiled. It 
evidently might advantageously be cooked precisely like the 
Italian wheat spaghetti, and have grated cheese added to it. 
In Russia, buckwheat porridge is said to be much used. In 
America, griddle cakes are hitherto practically the only form 
for buckwheat. 

Select flour free from grit and light colored. It is often 
dirty from threshing on the ground. (Haskell.) 

Buckwheat Cakes. — Mix a quart of buckwheat meal with 
a teaspoonful of salt and a handful of Indian meal. Pour a 
large tablespoonful of the best brewers' yeast into the centre 
of the meal. Then mix it gradually with cold water, till it 
becomes a batter. Cover it, put it in a warm place, and set 
it to rise; it will take about three hours. When it is quite 
light and covered with bubbles, it is fit to bake. Over the 
fire, grease a hot griddle well with a piece of butter tied in a 
rag. Dip out a ladleful of the batter, and bake it on the 
griddle, both sides. Grease the griddle anew after baking 
each cake. If the batter has been mixed over night, and is 
sour in the morning, dissolve in warm water, and stir into the 
batter, a piece of pearlash as large as a kernel of corn, or a 
little larger; let the batter stand half an hour, and then bake 
it. The pearlash not only removes the sour taste, but increases 
the lightness of the cake. (Leslie.) Or, omit the Indian meal; 
add a tablespoonful of molasses ; if the batter sours over night, 
add soda. (Haskell.) Or again: add two tablespoonfuls of 
molasses, and two tablespoonfuls of distillery yeast; and if 
the batter sours, add half a teaspoonful of soda in warm water. 
The cakes have a handsomer brown if wet with milk, or part 
milk. (Beecher.) 

French Buckwheat Cakes are made in exactly the same 
way as (French) wheat griddle, or pancakes (p. 295), using 
buckwheat flour instead of wheat flour. If you prefer, you 
can use one half wheat and one half buckwheat. (Fr.) 

Buckwheat Porridge. — Wet a quart of buckwheat flour 
with three pints of milk (or terralac) ; add at least a tea- 



00O VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

spoonful of salt; set it over a fire that is not too quick; cook 
at least half an hour from the time it begins to simmer. It 
must be constantly stirred, for it easily sticks to the sauce- 
pan. Serve up in the sauce-pan. In a hole in the middle of 
the porridge on your plate place a piece of butter as large 
as an English walnut (or a spoonful of oil) ; and as you eat, 
first dip each spoonful of the porridge into the butter. (Fr.) 

Fried Buckwheat Porridge. — Prepare and cook the por- 
ridge as just described; when it is well cooked, put it into 
soup plates, and let it cool. Cut it in slices as thick as a 
quarter-dollar; brown the two sides in a buttered frying pan, 
or on a griddle. (Fr.) 



TREE-FRUITS, BERRIES AND MELONS. 

Tree-fruits, berries and melons, even disregarding their 
water, are all poor in protein and fat, and rich in carbohy- 
drates. To make a well balanced food, they would, therefore 
need to be combined with substances decidedly rich in protein 
and fat; such as cheese or nuts or certain buttered or oiled 
vegetables, particularly, shoots, mushrooms and pulse. More 
often, fruits make a well balanced combination with eggs ; a 
partly balanced one with bread or wheat flour. Fruit, how- 
ever, is not commonly made into a food that is itself well 
balanced, but is taken separately, perhaps at the same meal, 
as a balance to other foods rich in protein and fat; and is 
especially agreeable to eaters of meat and other protein-rich 
and, by nature or by cooking, fatty dishes, and is craved by 
them as tending to supply the deficiency of carbohydrates in 
their excessively nitrogenous and oily food. Most fruits are 
slightly acid, and are preferably eaten with sugar, a carbohy- 
drate that intensifies their general character of richness in 
carbohydrates, and makes a smaller quantity of them effective 
in counterbalancing the excessive protein of other accompany- 
ing articles of food. 

Fruits are eaten raw. or stewed, or are canned in more 
or less unchanged condition, or are made into preserves, or 
jelhes, or are eaten in various confectionery forms. Fruit 
that has been cooked, or preserved, with a good deal — say, an 
equal weight — of sugar is safe against bacteria or yeasts that 
cause fermentation, and therefore does not need to be more 
tightly sealed up than enough to keep out mould-spores, which 
might attack the surface. Such sweet preserves and jellies 
are therefore often kept in paper-covered jars with brandied 
paper resting closely upon the surface of the jam, marmalade 
or jelly. The freshly brandied paper serves to kill any mould- 
spores that might happen to rest upon the surface; and the 
close contact of the paper prevents the later admission of 
other spores. Self-sealing jars, however, are still more con- 
venient and effective. Cranberries and lemons are, like rhu- 
barb, so acid and so poor in protein, that bacteria or yeasts 
seldom attack them. (Parloa.) 

339 



340 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

RAW FRUITS. 

Keeping Fruit. — Fruit should be kept away from air, heat 
and light and especially free from frost and dampness; say, 
in the darkest possible closet, or in a dry cellar. Place the 
fruits, such as apples and pears, upon shelves or in shallow 
wooden boxes above one another, say, in a corner, well pro- 
tected from rats and mice, and not letting the fruits touch 
each other. Examine them frequently and remove those that 
are beginning to spoil; for contact with them would make the 
others spoil. Grapes can be kept on the vines until the first 
frost, if they are wrapped in bags of haircloth or oiled paper. 
To keep them in the fruit room, clean them well from all de- 
cayed or bruised individual grapes, and hang them tail down- 
ward, and so that the bunches do not touch one another. 
Apples that have been frozen are soft, pasty and tasteless. 
If they are cooked, they regain a part of their good qualities, 
and can be made into dumplings, charlottes and marma- 
lades. (Fr.) 

Ices and Sherbets. — Ices hold one of the first places 
among gastronomic preparations (from the epicurean point of 
view). They are not more difficult than anything else, if you 
only know how. The indispensable apparatus is the freezer; 
it is preferably made of tin. The syrup, or cream, prepared 
according to the receipts, is put into the freezer, and made 
to freeze by putting the freezer into a wooden tub and packing 
it around with ice that is broken into small bits and mixed in 
layers with one-eighth its own weight of coarse salt; and then 
strongly shaking the freezer for eight or ten minutes, un- 
covering, and with a wooden paddle detaching the partly frozen 
liquid on the sides of the freezer, stirring the whole well ; then 
covering it again, letting it rest five minutes; then repeating 
the operation, until the whole of the syrup, or cream, has be- 
come an unctuous paste; meanwhile letting the water from 
the melted ice of the tub run off by a hole below, and refilling 
with more broken ice; and finally covering the freezer with 
broken ice and putting a cloth over all, until it is time to 
serve up the ices. The work should be done in as cool and 
dry a place as possible; and should not be too long inter- 
rupted, lest the liquid should freeze into icicles, and the ices 
so become less delicate, or the liquid should freeze insuf- 
ficiently from lack of ice. The ices should not be frozen too 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 341 

long beforehand. Red fruit ices should not be worked too 
much, if you wish them to keep their color. Sherbets are 
kinds of ices made with alcoholic preparations, such as rum, 
kirsch and cordials. The frozen cream or ice may be put into 
a mould ; and before serving up, dipped an instant into hot 
water; then upset on a dish, and the mould removed. Ices 
of two different flavors may be put side by side in a 
mould. (Fr.) 

STEWED FRUITS. 

Canning Stewed Fruit. — Canning is in all respects the 
most desirable way to preserve fruit for home use; it is the 
easiest, most economical and best, because the fruit is kept in 
a soft, juicy, easily digestible condition. Ricli preserves may 
only be made for variety and special occasions. Canning de- 
pends on perfect sterilization, and rarely need fail. Of sev- 
eral methods, the three best and easiest are: Cooking the fruit 
in the jars in an oven; cooking the fruit in jars in boiling 
water; and stewing the fruit before it is put into the jars. 
The rubber rings must be fresh, soft and elastic. Into two 
pans partly full of cold water, lay some jars on their side 
in one and some covers in the other. Put the pans on the 
stove, and boil the water at least ten or fifteen minutes. Have 
a shallow milk pan with about two inches of boiling water on 
the stove. Sterilize the cups, spoons, and funnel (if you use 
one) by dipping them into boiling water for a few minutes. 
When ready to put the hot fruit into the jars, slip a broad 
skimmer under a jar, lift it, and drain it free of water; set 
the jar in the milk pan of hot water, and fill the jar to over- 
flowing with the boiling fruit. Slip a silver-plated knife, or 
a spoon handle, around the inside of the jar, to pack the fruit 
and juice solidly. Wipe the rim of the jar; put on the cover 
and fasten it. Place the jar on a board, and out of any draft 
of cold air. Do the filling and sealing rapidly, and have the 
fruit boiling hot when it is put into the jars. If screw covers 
be used, tighten them after the glass has cooled and con- 
tracted. When the fruit is cold, wipe the jars with a wet 
cloth. Paste the labels on, if any; and put the jars into a 
cool, dark closet. In canning any proportion of sugar may 
be used, or none at all. Fruit for cooking purposes needs no 
sugar added; but fruit for a sauce should have the sugar 
cooked with it. Juicy fruits, like berries or cherries, need 



342 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

little or no water; strawberries are better without it, except 
when cooked in a heavy syrup. (Parloa.) 

Baking and Canning Fruit. — If canned and cooked in 
the oven, the fruit better keeps its shape, color and flavor than 
when stewed and canned; and the work is easier and quicker. 
Cover the bottom of the oven with a sheet of the cheap asbestos 
plumbers use to cover pipes ; or put into the oven shallow pans 
holding about two inches of boiling; water. Sterilize the jars 
and utensils. Make the syriip and prepare the fruit in the 
same way as for stewing. Fill the hot jars with it, and pour 
in enough syrup to fill the jar solidly, running the blade of a 
silver-plated knife, or the handle of a spoon, around the in- 
side of the jar. Place the jars on the asbestos, or in the pan 
of water, in the moderately hot oven. Cook the fruit ten 
minutes; remove from the oven, and fill the jar with boiling 
syrup, wipe and seal. Place the jars on a board, out of any 
draft of air. If screw covers are used, tighten them after 
the glass has cooled. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, 
quinces, crabapples, and the like, need about a pint of syrup 
to each quart jar of fruit. Small fruit needs a little over 
half a pint of syrup. For the syrup, the amount of water to 
a pint of sugar varies with the kind of fruit, as follows, for 
moderate sweetness (but the quantity may be varied accord- 
ing to taste): For preserved strawberries and cherries: water 
one gill (density of syrup, 40 degrees). For preserved 
peaches, plums, quinces, currants, and the like: water, half a 
pint (density, 32 degrees) ; or three gills (density, 28 de- 
grees). For canned acid fruits: water, one pint (density, 24 
degrees). For canned pears, peaches, sweet plums, and 
cherries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries: water, one 
pint and a half (density, 17 degrees) or water two pints 
(density, 14 degrees). The least dense syrups may be used 
for filling up the jars, after they are taken from the oven. To 
make the syrvm, put the sugar and water into a sauce-pan; 
stir on the stc e until the sugar is dissolved; heat slowly to 
the boiling pent; boil gently without stirring. Boil ten to 
thirty minut-^ the richer the syrup, the longer. Rich (thick) 
syrups, if boLed hard, jarred or stirred, are apt to crystallize. 
The syrup may be rade a day or two in advance. The light 
syrups will not keep long, unless sealed ; the heavy ones keep 
well if merely covered well against mould. (Parloa.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 343 

Double-Boiler Cooking and Canning Fruit. — Prepare 
the fruit and syrup as for cooking in the oven. Fill the 
sterilized jars, and put the covers on loosely. In the bottom 
of a stove-washboiler place a wooden rack (made of two strips 
of wood an inch high and wide and two inches shorter than 
the length of the boiler, with thin strips of wood, an inch wide 
and one and a half inches shorter than the width of the boiler, 
tacked an inch apart crosswise upon the two long parallel 
strips). Put in enough water to rise about four inches above 
the rack. Place the filled jars upon the rack in the boiler, 
not letting them touch one another. Between and around the 
jars, pack clean white cotton rags, or, perhaps better cotton 
rope, to prevent their striking one another when the water 
boils. Cover the boiler, and let the fruit cook ten minutes 
from the time boiling begins. Draw the boiler back, and take 
off the cover. When the steam has passed off, take out one 
jar at a time, and place it in a pan of boiling water close by; 
fill up with boiling syrup, and seal. Put the jars on a board, 
where no cold air can blow on them. If screw covers are used, 
tighten them after the glass has cooled and contracted. 
(Parloa.) 

Stewing and Canning Fruit and Fruit Juices. — The 
fruits must be freshly gathered, before they are completely 
ripe, somewhat firm and crisp, and perfectly sound. If they 
are too ripe, the result is less delicate, and keeps badly. (Fr.) 

Marmalades and Jams. — Marmalades and jams require 
great care in cooking, because no moisture is added to the 
fruit and sugar. In making jam from berries, they should be 
rubbed through a sieve, to remove the seeds. Large fruits 
for marmalades should be washed, peeled, quartered and cored. 
Allow one pint of sugar to each quart of fruit. Rinse the pre- 
serving kettle with cold water, so that there may be a slight 
coat of moisture on the sides and bottom. Put alternate layers 
of fruit and sugar in the kettle, beginning with fruit. Heat 
slowly, stirring often. While stirring, break up the fruit as 
much as possible. Cook about two hours, then put into small 
sterilized jars. (Parloa.) 

Strained Marmalades and Jams. — Strained marmalades 
are not cooked so long as other marmalades, and so have more 
of the natural flavor. They are particularly nice for the small 
seedy fruits to be used in puddings, cake and frozen desserts. 



344 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Free the fruit from leaves, stems and decayed portions. 
Peaches and plums should be peeled and stoned. Rub the 
fruit through a strainer. To each quart of the strained fruit 
add a pint of sugar. Pack in sterilized jars, and put the covers 
on loosely. Place the jars on the wooden rack in the wash- 
boiler. Pour cold water into the boiler to half-way up the 
sides of the jars. Heat gradually to boiling; boil thirty 
minutes from the time bubbling begins. As each jar is taken 
from the boiler put it into a pan of hot water, and fill the 
jar up with boiling-hot syrup ready at hand. Seal at once. 
(Parloa.) 

PRESERVES. 

Preserving Fruit. — Most fruits are better canned with 
little sugar than preserved with much. But some fruits (more 
especially, strawberries, sour cherries, sour plums, and 
quinces) are only good when preserved with much sugar, for 
occasional use. Such rich preparations should be put up in 
small jars or tumblers. (Parloa.) 

Preserving Fruits in Grape Juice. — Any kind of fruit 
can be preserved in grape juice; but apples, pears and plums 
are particularly good. No sugar is needed. In an open pre- 
serving kettle, boil down six quarts of grape juice to four. 
Put the fruit, washed and peeled, and, if apples or pears, 
quartered and cored, into a preserving kettle, and cover amply 
with the boiled grape juice. Boil gently, until the fruit is 
clear and tender; then put into sterilized jars. (Parloa.) 

Canning or Bottling Fruit Juices. — Fruit juice is ex- 
cellent for drinking or cooking. Fruit juices for frozen creams 
and water ices should be canned with plenty of sugar. 
(Parloa.) 

JELLIES. 

A carbohydrate somewhat similar to starch, and called 
pectin, is the component of fruit juice that enables jelly to be 
made, by gelatinizing a mixture of equal quantities of the 
juice and sugar, when they have been heated to the boiling 
point for a short time. The pectin is at its best when the 
fruit is just ripe, or a little before; and loses its gelatinizing 
power if fermented, or if cooked too long. The fruit for jelly- 
making should, therefore, be fresh and only just ripe, or a 
little under-ripe ; and should not be boiled too long. The best 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 345 

fruits for jelly-making are (mentioning the best first): cur- 
rant, crabapple, apple, quince, grape, blackberry, raspberry, 
peach. Juicy fruits, currants, raspberries and the like, should 
not be gathered after a rain, for the water absorbed would 
require excessive boiling. For the same reason, the washing 
of dusty or sandy berries should be done very quickly. Large 
fruits, such as apples, peaches and pears, must be boiled in 
water until soft. The strained liquid contains the flavoring 
matter and pectin. Such fruits, with added water, require 
more work and skill for jelly making than juicy fruits do. 
For eight quarts of apples allow four quarts of water, and for 
eight quarts of juicy peaches or plums three or three and one- 
half quarts of water, and in either case expect three quarts of 
strained juice; and if the juice be more, boil it down to three 
quarts. The jelly will be clearer and finer, if the fruit be 
skimmed gently, and not stirred, while cooking. Strain the 
juice through cheese-cloth, without pressure; if the cloth be 
double the juice will be quite clear. For very great clearness, 
strain through a flannel, or felt bag. The juice may be pressed 
from the fruit left in the strainer, and may be used in marma- 
lade, or for second-quality jelly. To prevent jelly from 
crystallizing (candying) with too much sugar, if the fruit itself 
contains much sugar, add less than the quantity of the juice; 
less (say, a quarter less than equal bulk) in a hot sunny season 
than in a cold, dry one, (which would need rather more than 
equal bulk of sugar). Hard boiling also may cause crystalliz- 
ing; for particles of the syrup thrown up to the upper part 
of the kettle form crystals that may be stirred again into the 
syrup, and cause it later to crystallize. The syrup gauge 
should mark 25 degrees with any kind of fruit. To make 
very transparent jelly, strain the strained juice through the 
flannel bag. Instead of heating the jelly after adding the 
sugar, it may be put at once into the warm sterilized glasses ; 
and jelly of this cold process is more delicate, but does not 
keep so well. (Parloa.) 

Jellies should be put into sterilized glasses, that are taken 
from boiling water and are set in a depth of about two inches 
of boiling water in a baking-pan. The glasses full of jelly 
should then be set on a board. Place the board near a sunny 
window in a room where there is no dust. It is well to cover 
the glasses with a sheet of glass. As soon as the jelly is 
set, first brush over the top of the j elly with brandy or alcohol 



346 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

(to kill any mould-spores there), place upon the jelly a disk 
of paper that has been dipped in the spirit, and then put on 
the cover, if there be one to the glass ; if there be no cover, 
put over the top of the glass a half-inch wider disk of paper 
wet with the white of an egg beaten together with a table- 
spoonful of cold water, pressing the edges down well, so as to 
stick to the glass ; or use yet a little larger covering-papers 
dipped in olive-oil, and tie them tightly to the glass. In- 
stead of the brandied paper, or in addition, paraffine may be 
used, but it does not itself destroy mould-spores that may rest 
on the jelly. Put the paraffine in pieces into a cup, and 
warm it to melting, in a pan of warm water; make the coat- 
ing a quarter-inch thick; a very thin layer might crack in 
cooling and contracting and leave the jelly exposed. The 
jelly well covered in its glasses should be kept in a cool, dry, 
dark place. (Parloa.) 

FRUIT COMFITS. 

A fruit comfit has had the water and acidity of the fruit 
replaced by sugar ; and is thereby protected against fermenting 
or moulding, as happens to jellies and marmalades insufficiently 
cooked or sweetened. (Fr.) The method of preparation will 
be described under the different fruits. 

Fruit Comfit Pie. — Make and arrange a pie-paste shell 
in the way already described (p. 319). Cover it with a layer 
of apple sauce as thick as your finger; bake half an hour; 
take from the oven; place in rows upon the sauce, pressing a 
little into it, some pears or quarters of pears, stewed in a 
syrup, some apricot, peach and plum comfits, and the like. 
Pour upon them a little syrup ; put into the oven again for five 
minutes; serve up. These pies can be ornamented with little 
shreds of almonds, of angelica, of orange peel, or of 
cedrat. (Fr.) 

STRAWBERRY. 

Strawberry Fritters are made in the same way as apple 
fritters (p. 378) ; choose the largest berries possible, and quite 
fresh, and not too ripe, and leave them whole. (Fr.) 

Strawberry Pie. — Make and arrange a pie-paste shell in 
the way already described (p. 319). Place upon it in rows 
some fresh and fully ripe strawberries; pour upon them some 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 34-7 

verv thick sugar-syrup, or a little currant jelly melted in the 
double kettle. (Fr.) 

Canned Strawberries lack delicacy, as the berry does 
not keep its flavor. (Fr.) 

Preserving Strawberries. — Use equal weights of sugar 
and strawberries. Put the berries into the preserving kettle 
in layers, and sprinkle sugar over each layer. Let them be 
not more than four inches deep. Heat them over the stove 
slowly to the boiling point. When they begin to boil, skim 
carefully. Boil ten minutes from the time bubbling begins. 
Pour the cooked fruit two or three inches deep into platters, 
and place them in a sunny window in an unused room, for 
three or four days. The fruit will then have grown plump 
and firm, and the syrup thickened almost to jelly. Put this 
preserve, cold, into the jars or tumblers; and cover in the 
way described for jellies. (Parloa.) 

Canning or Bottling Strawberry Juice. — Proceed in 
the same way as for grape juice (p. 366) ; but use half a pint 
of granulated sugar for each quart of juice. (Parloa.) 

Strawberry Jelly. — To ten quarts of strawberries add 
two quarts of currants, and proceed as for currant jelly; but 
boil fifteen minutes. (Parloa.) 

BLACKBERRY. 

Stewing and Canning Blackberries. — The same as for 
raspberries (p. 352). (Parloa.) 

Canning or Bottling Blackberry Juice. — Proceed in 
the same way as for grape juice (p. 366) ; but use half a pint 
of granulated sugar for each quart of juice. (Parloa.) 

Blackberry Jelly is made in the same way as currant 
jelly (p. 349). (Parloa.) 

CURRANT. 

Currant Water Ice. — For ten or twelve persons: Put 
into a sauce-pan a pound of sugar and a cupful of water; 
boil and skim well ; when the skimming is complete, take from 
the fire, and cool down; add a pint of thoroughly clear red 
currant juice; and put into the freezer, only two-thirds full, 
and freeze in the way already described (p. 340). (Fr.) 



348 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Currant Pudding or Dumpling is made in the same way 
as the French apple pudding, or dumpling (p. 376) ; only, 
neither lemon nor onions are put in. (Fr.) 

Currant Preserve. — From each little currant, on the 
stem-side, remove the seed with a tooth pick, taking care not 
to spoil the skin; weigh the seeded currants. Over the fire, 
for each pound of the fruit, melt a pound and a half of sugar 
in a cupful of water to each pound of sugar; stir, skim, and 
cook, until the syrup, when cooled a little, has the consistency 
of glue. Put the currants into the syrup, and, at the first 
bubble, take them from the fire; pour into small glass jars 
of a quarter of a pound, distributing the currants equally, and 
now and then pushing them into the syrup, until they no 
longer come to the surface. (Fr.) 

Preserving White Currants. — Select large, firm fruit, 
remove the stones, and proceed as for strawberry preserve 
(p. 347). (Parloa.) 

Canning Currants. — Take ripe currants, stem them, and 
proceed in the same way as for canning cherries. (Fr.) 

Canning or Bottling Currant Juice. — Proceed in the 
same way as for grape juice (p. 366) ; but use a pint of 
granulated sugar for each quart of juice. Currant juice may 
be sterilized and canned without sugar, and may thereafter 
be made into jelly at any season. (Parloa.) 

Bottling Currant Juice. — Crush some currants, and 
strain them with pressure through a wet cloth, to take out all 
the juice; leave the juice in a cool place two or three days, 
to let it ferment. When all the scum and dregs have come to 
the top, draw off the clear juice; put it into bottles, stopper, 
and tie them; boil the bottles so filled five minutes in a kettle 
with plenty of water, and proceed in the way described for 
greengage preserve (p. 359). The juice so prepared keeps 
a very long time. Mixed with sugared water, it makes a 
beverage much more flavored and agreeable than currant 
syrup. (Fr.) 

Currant Syrup. — Crush together two thirds of red cur- 
rants not too ripe and one third of sour cherries; put them 
into a pan, and let them ferment for 24 hours. Then strain 
them with a sieve, thoroughly pressing out the juice with your 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 349 

hands. Add a pound and three quarters of sugar for each 
pound of juice; put them in a pan over the fire; stir now and 
then; when the sugar has melted, and the syrup has bubbled 
three or four times, take it from the fire; cool it a little, and 
put it into bottles. The next day stopper the bottles, and 
set them in a cool place. (Fr.) 

Currant Jelly. — Put the currants, free from leaves and 
large stems, into the preserving kettle; crush a few with a 
wooden vegetable-masher, or a spoon; heat slowly, stirring 
often. When the currants are hot, crush them; turn the fruit 
and juice into a double square of cheese-cloth spread over a 
hair sieve, or strainer, above a large bowl; lift the cloth by its 
corners; move the contents by raising one side of the cloth 
and then the other. Then, put the cloth over another bowl, 
and press out the juice thoroughly, twisting the ends together; 
this juice is for a second quality of jelly. The clear juice 
may be made into jelly at once, or (to make very transparent 
jelly) may first be strained through a flannel bag. Measure 
the juice, and put it into a clean preserving kettle; and for 
every pint of juice add a pint of granulated sugar. Stir, until 
the sugar is dissolved, and then place over the fire; watch 
closely; when it boils, draw it back, and skim; put over the 
fire again, and boil, and skim once more; boil and skim a 
third time; pour into hot preserve glasses taken from a pan 
of hot water on the stove (thereby sterilized). Set the glasses 
on a board. Place the board near a sunny window in a room 
where there is no dust. It is well to cover the glasses with 
a sheet of glass. As soon as the jelly is set, brush over the 
top of the jelly with brandy or alcohol (to kill any mould- 
spores there), place upon the jelly a disk of paper that has 
been dipped in the spirit, and then put on the cover, if there 
be one to the glass; if there is no cover, put over the top of 
the glass a half-inch wider disk of paper wet with the white 
of an egg beaten together with a tablespoonful of cold water, 
pressing the edges down well, so as to stick to the glass; or 
use yet a little larger covering-papers dipped in olive oil, and 
tie them tightly to the glass. Instead of the brandied paper, 
or in addition, paraffine may be used, but it does not itself 
destroy mould-spores that may rest on the jelly. Put the 
paraffine pieces into a cup, and warm it to melting, in a pan 
of warm water ; make the coating a quarter inch thick ; a very 



350 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

thin layer might crack in cooling and contracting, and leave 
the jelly exposed. Instead of heating the jelly after adding 
the sugar, it may be put at once into the warm, sterilized 
glasses; and jelly of this cold process is more delicate, but 
does not keep so well. (Parloa.) 

French Currant Jelly. — Crush some red currants, press 
them in a damp cloth until the j uice is completely driven out ; 
weigh the juice; put it into a copper, or brass, kettle over 
the fire, with half a pound of sugar for every pound of juice; 
skim (put the skimmings aside, they are very good to eat), 
and boil about 25 or 30 minutes ; if a little of the preparation 
put on a plate stiffens, the cooking is sufficient; put into jars, 
and cover as already described. Less economically, but with 
more of the flavor of the fruit, put in three quarters of a pound 
of sugar for each pound of juice and cook half as long. If 
white currants be mixed with the red, do not put in more than 
one third of the white; they give the jelly a pretty rose color, 
but a larger quantity would make the jelly look cloudy. (Fr.) 



LEMON. 

Lemonade. — Cut each lemon in half, and with a glass 
lemon-reamer remove the pulp from the peel; and by passing 
through a strainer separate the juice from the seeds and pulp. 
To the juice of each lemon of medium size add two tumblerfuls 
(a pint) of water and three (or four) heaping teaspoonfuls 
of granulated sugar. Too much sugar makes the lemonade 
increase thirst, instead of refreshingly quenching it. It is 
evident, then, that the cost of the material for a tumblerful 
of lemonade (without any alcoholic addition) is only from 
half a cent to one cent. Nevertheless, the custom is to offer 
it with stately ceremony, as if extremely precious. A lady 
presides at the big lemonade-bowl and fills a glass half as 
large as a tumbler for each guest who, no matter how thirsty, 
must of course be ashamed to ask for a second glass of so 
invaluable a beverage. Besides, dribbling from a cup into 
the bowl, in case of a second help, is not altogether sanitary 
or appetizing. To be sure, stirring up the mixture with a 
ladle in a bowl keeps any ingredients from becoming settled 
towards the bottom; but that could equally well be effected by 
occasional stirring with a spoon in a pitcher. 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 351 

Lemon Water-ice is made in the same way as orange 
water-ice (p. 363) ; only, instead of the juice of three oranges 
and three lemons and the zest of three oranges, you take the 
zest of three lemons and the juice of six. (Fr.) 

Portable Lemonade. — One lemon ; and a quarter of a 
pound of loaf sugar. Rub off the rind of the lemon with the 
sugar, broken in pieces; bruise the sugar; add the juice 
strained; put it into a jar; and when wanted for use 
dissolve a tablespoonful of it in a glass of water. If too 
sweet, a very small portion of citric acid may be added. It 
will keep considerable time. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Lemon Syrup may be prepared in the same way as orange 
syrup, allowing half a pint more of the clarified syrup to a 
pint of lemon juice. A large tablespoonful of lemon syrup 
in a small tumbler of water answers very well for lemonade. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Lemon Pie. — Cream half a pound of butter and a pound 
of sugar; and beat in six egg-yolks, the juice of a lemon and 
the grated rind of two lemons, a nutmeg and half a glass of 
brandy; then stir in the six whites of eggs; bake in a pie- 
crust, open. You may, still better, beat up the whites of but 
four eggs in the mixture, and whip the whites of four more 
into a merang with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little 
lemon juice, to spread over the top of each pie. Eat it cold. 
Such pies are nice when baked in patty pans. (Harland.) 

RASPBERRY. 

Raspberry Water-Ice is made in the same way as cur- 
rant water-ice; only, instead of currant juice, you add a pint 
of half-and-half currant and raspberry juice. (Fr.) 

Raspberry Fritters are made in the same way as apple 
fritters (p. 378). Choose the largest berries possible, and 
quite fresh, and not too ripe, and leave them whole. (Fr.) 

Raspberry Pie is made in the same way as strawberry 
pie (p. 346). (Fr.) 

Stewing and Canning Raspberries. — Put two quarts of 
raspberries into the preserving kettle; heat slowly on the 
stove ; crush with a wooden vegetable-masher ; turn the crushed 
berries and juice upon a square of cheese-cloth spread over a 



352 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

bowl ; press out the j uice, and turn it into the preserving kettle. 
Add two quarts of sugar; put on the stove, and stir until the 
sugar is dissolved. When the syrup begins to boil, add ten 
quarts of raspberries ; let them heat slowly ; and boil ten 
minutes from the time bubbling begins, skimming well. Put 
into jars, and seal in the way already directed. (Parloa.) 

Stewing and Canning Raspberries and Currants. — 
Take ten quarts of raspberries, three quarts of currants and 
five pints of sugar. Heat, crush, and press the juice from 
the currants, and proceed as just directed for raspberries. 
(Parloa.) 

Canning Raspberries. — Select raspberries that are not 
quite ripe; proceed in the same way as for canning green- 
gages (p. 359) ; but use a syrup made with one pound and 
thirteen ounces of sugar to a quart of water, and boil the 
filled bottles two minutes. (Fr.) 

Canning or Bottling Raspberry Juice. — Proceed in the 
same way as for grape juice (p. 366) ; but use half a pint of 
granulated sugar for each quart of juice. (Parloa.) 

Currant and Raspberry Syrup is made in the same way 
as currant syrup; only, you add to the currants and cherries 
one quarter of raspberries. (Fr.) 

Raspberry Vinegar. — Pour two quarts of vinegar over 
four quarts of raspberries in a bowl; cover it, and set it in 
a cool place for two days. Then strain the vinegar through 
cheese-cloth. Put four quarts of fresh raspberries in the 
bowl, and pour over them the vinegar strained from the first 
raspberries. Put in a cool place for two days, and then strain. 
Put the strained juice into a preserving kettle with three 
quarts of sugar. Heat slowly, and when the vinegar boils, 
skim carefully. Boil twenty minutes, then put into sterilized 
bottles. About two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to a glass of 
water makes a refreshing drink. Similar vinegar may be 
made from blackberries and strawberries. (Parloa.) 

French Raspberry Vinegar. — Fill a jar of glass or stone- 
ware with raspberries, but without pressing; pour into it 
enough vinegar to cover the berries completely; let them steep 
a week. With a cloth thoroughly squeeze out all the vinegar 
and juice; and put the liquid into sterilized bottles. A tea- 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 353 

spoonful of it in a glass of sugared water advantageously re- 
places raspberry vinegar syrup. (Fr.) 

Raspberry Vinegar Syrup. — To the raspberry vinegar 
squeezed out with a cloth, as just described, add twice its 
weight of sugar, melt it in a water-bath (or double kettle) 
over a very moderate fire ; when the sugar is melted, take from 
the fire, cool down, and put into bottles. (Fr.) 

Raspberry Jelly. — Crush the raspberries, and strain them 
through a wet cloth, strongly pressing out all the juice. Put 
the juice into an untinned copper or brass pan with three 
quarters of a pound of sugar for each pound of juice; cook 
fifteen or twenty minutes, at most; take the pan from the fire, 
and put the jelly into jars. (Fr.) 

Parloa's Raspberry Jelly is made in the same way as 
currant jelly. (Parloa.) 

Raspberry and Currant Jelly is made in the same way 
as currant jelly, using half currants and half raspberries. 
(Parloa.) 

Currant and Raspberry Jelly is made in the same way 
as currant jelly, only you add to the currants, before press- 
ing, one quarter of raspberries. (Fr.) 

MULBERRY. 

Mulberry Pudding or Dumpling is made in exactly the 
same way as the French apple pudding, or dumpling (p. 376) ; 
only neither lemon nor spices are put in. (Fr.) 

Mulberry Syrup is made in the same way as cherry syrup 
(p. 355), taking mulberries that are not too ripe. (Fr.) 

GOOSEBERRY. 

Stewed Green Gooseberries. — Into a sauce-pan put a 
quarter-pound of sugar and half a cupful of water; boil, and 
reduce to a syrup; put into it a pound of green gooseberries, 
not yet ripe, that you have put over the fire in boiling water, 
until they floated, and that you then plunged into cold water 
acidulated with vinegar, in order to bring back their green 
color; boil some minutes; put the gooseberries into the pre- 
serve-dish; boil down the syrup, and pour it upon the goose- 
berries. (Fr.) 



354 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Green Gooseberry Pudding or Dumpling is made in 
exactly the same way as the French apple pudding, or 
dumpling (p. 376) ; only, neither lemon nor spices are put in; 
but a finely chopped lemon-zest is added, and, as the fruit is 
acid, plenty of sugar is needed. (Fr.) 

Gooseberry Pie. — See apple and other pies (p. 379). 

Stewing and Canning Gooseberries. — Take six quarts 
of gooseberries, three pints of sugar and one pint of water. 
For green gooseberries, dissolve the sugar in the water, then 
add the fruit, and cook fifteen minutes. Treat ripe goose- 
berries in the same way as green ones, but use only half as 
much water. Green gooseberries may also be canned in the 
same way as rhubarb (p. 201). (Parloa.) 

CHERRY. 

Dried Cherries. — Cherries are dried like prunes (p. 357). 
Choose cherries of firm pulp. It is common enough to put 
them in the oven once, and finish in the sun. Do not put 
sweet-bay among them. To eat them, boil them like prunes, 
with water and sugar. (Fr.) 

Stewed Cherries. — Into a sauce-pan put a quarter-pound 
of sugar and half a cupful of water; boil a few bubbles; put 
in a pound of cherries from which you have cut one half the 
stem; cook some minutes; set them up in the preserve-dish; 
boil down the syrup, and pour it upon the cherries. (Fr.) 

Cherry Pudding or Dumpling is made in exactly the 
same way as the French apple pudding, or dumpling (p. 376) ; 
only neither lemon nor spices are put in. Remove the cherry 
stones. (Fr.) 

Cherry Pie. — For ten or twelve persons a pound, or a 
pound and a half of cherries. Make, and arrange some pie- 
paste as already indicated (p. 319). Place stoned cherries in 
rows on the paste, very close to one another; sprinkle with 
powdered sugar. Bake half an hour or three quarters. Strips 
of paste may also be placed over the fruit, in the way de- 
scribed for the family apple pie (p. 379). (Fr.) See also 
apple and other pies (p. 379). 

Stewing and Canning Cherries. — Take six quarts of 
cherries without the stems, three pints of sugar and half a 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 855 

pint of water. Stone the cherries, or not, as you please; but 
save all the juice. Put the sugar and water into the pre- 
serving kettle, and stir over the fire, until the sugar is dis- 
solved. Put the cherries in, and heat slowly to boiling; boil 
ten minutes, skimming carefully. (Parloa.) 

Canning Cherries. — Select cherries not quite ripe; cut 
off half the stem; put into bottles, and proceed as for green- 
gage preserve, but using a syrup of one pound and two ounces 
of sugar to a quart of water; boiling the filled bottles four 
minutes. (Fr.) 

Preserving Cherries. — Sour cherries, such as Early 
Richmond and Montmorency, are best for this preserve. Re- 
move the stems and stones, and proceed as for strawberry pre- 
serve (p. 347). (Parloa.) 

Cherry Preserve. — Stem and stone the cherries, taking 
care not to spoil them. For each pound of the cherries so 
prepared, melt three quarters of a pound of sugar in a pan 
with half a cupful of water to the pound of sugar. Add the 
cherries to them; cook twenty minutes; put the cherries into 
jars ; boil down the juice, and pour it upon the cherries. (Fr.) 

Another Cherry Preserve. — Of currants take one 
quarter of the weight of the cherries ; crush the currants, and 
press them well through a wet cloth; put the juice and the 
stemmed and stoned cherries into a pan with half a pound 
of sugar for each pound of the juice and cherries; boil about 
half an hour; skim; take from the fire and put into jars. (Fr.) 

Cherry Juice. — To preserve cherry juice, proceed as for 
cherry or plum jelly; but add to each quart of juice half a 
pint of sugar, instead of the quart needed for jelly. If you 
do not care to have the juice transparent, you can squeeze the 
pulp fully dry. (Parloa.) 

Cherry Syrup. — Stem some cherries that are not too ripe; 
crush them, and let them ferment for 24 hours; strain them 
with a sieve, pressing a little; add a pound and three quarters 
of sugar for each pound of the juice; put in a basin over the 
fire; let the syrup bubble once, and skim it; cool it a little, 
and put it into bottles. (Fr.) 

Brandied Cherries. — Take fine, freshly gathered cherries 
enough to fill three quarters full the glass bowl you use; cut 



35b VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

off half the stem, and put the cherries into the bowl with a 
little bag containing a bit of cinnamon and a pinch of 
coriander ; pour on them a syrup made of sugar and very little 
water — five ounces of sugar to a pound of cherries; fill up 
the bowl with brandy. It will be two months before the cher- 
ries are done. (Fr.) 

Another Way. — Stem, say, four pounds of early cherries, 
or of wild cherries ; and crush them with their stones ; put 
them into a pan with a pound of sugar ; boil them gently, until 
they have the consistency of syrup. Mix the syrup with two 
quarts of brandy, five or six broken cloves and a small piece 
of cinnamon; keep in a well closed jar. When you have cher- 
ries that you wish to brandy, strain your preparation through 
a cloth, with strong pressure, then through a flannel bag, and 
put it into a bowl with the cherries of which you have cut off 
half the stem. Wait two months before eating the cher- 
ries. (Fr.) 

Preserving Cherries and Currant Juice. — Put three 
quarts of currants in the preserving kettle over the fire. When 
they boil up, crush them, and strain them through cheese 
cloth, pressing out all the juice. Stem and stone twelve quarts 
of cherries, carefully saving all the juice. Put the cherries, 
fruit-juice and two quarts of sugar into the preserving kettle. 
Heat to boiling, and skim carefully. Boil twenty minutes. 
Put into sterilized jars or tumblers. This is an acid preserve; 
but the sugar may be doubled, if desired. (Parloa.) 

Four-Fruit Jelly. — Crush a pound each of cherries, cur- 
rants, raspberries and strawberries, and strain them through a 
wet cloth, strongly pressing out all the juice; put the juice 
into an untinned copper or brass pan with three quarters of a 
pound of sugar for each pound of juice; cook fifteen or twenty 
minutes, at most; take the pan from the fire, and put the 
jelly into jars. (Fr.) 

BARBERRY. 

Barberry Jelly. — Take very ripe barberries, stem them, 
and put them into a pan with enough water to cover them; 
set them over the fire; when they have boiled about twenty 
minutes, take them from the fire, crush them with a wooden 
spoon, and strain them through a sieve; add an equal weight 
of sugar to the juice, set over the fire again, and when the 
liquid foams, skim it, and pour it into jars. (Fr.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 357 



PLUM. 



Prunes (dried plums). — Place fine, ripe and quite sound 
Reinette plums one by one on gratings, and put them in the 
oven, after the bread has been baked; leave them there until 
heating again for the next baking; and before putting them 
again in the oven, turn them over, one by one; repeat the 
operation three or four times, according as they seem more 
or less dry. Only experience can show you the suitable de- 
gree. When you deem them just right, set them for some time 
in a dry, airy place; then arrange them layer by layer in 
boxes lined with white paper; also put in among them some 
sweet-bay leaves. To eat the prunes, boil them fifteen minutes 
in sugared water — for a pound of prunes, a quarter-pound of 
sugar and two cupfuls of water; serve up with a sauce that 
is not too dilute. (Fr.) 

Stewed Plums. — Into a sauce-pan put a quarter-pound of 
sugar and a cupful of water ; boil a few bubbles ; put in a 
pound of plums ; cook, until the plums yield to the finger ; 
skim; put the plums into a preserve-dish; boil down the juice 
to the consistency of syrup, and pour it upon the plums. (Fr.) 

Plums in Conde Fashion. — For six or eight persons: 
Cook with a gentle fire half a pound of rice in a quart of milk 
(or terralac), with a piece of vanilla as long as your finger; 
when the rice is well cooked and very thick, sweeten it with 
three ounces of sugar, adding an ounce of butter (or two 
spoonfuls of oil) and a pinch of salt; thicken it with two egg- 
yolks ; form a crown in a dish, coat the crown with a thin 
layer of apricot marmalade ; in the middle place stewed plums, 
or pears, or peaches, or apricots; put them into the oven, or 
Dutch oven, and serve them up warm. This dish may also 
be ornamented with fruits preserved whole or in pieces. (Fr.) 

Fresh-Plum Pudding or Dumpling is made in exactly 
the same way as the French apple pudding (p. 376) ; only, 
neither lemon nor spices are put in. Remove the stones; but 
leave those of the prunes d'avoines. (Fr.) 

Plum Pie. — Greengages and Mirabelles are the best 
plums for pies. Greengages are cut in two, and the stones 
removed ; the Mirabelles also have the stones removed, but are 
not cut in two. A paste shell is to be made and arranged as 
already described (p. 319). Place the plums in rows on the 



358 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

paste; sprinkle them with a good quantity of powdered sugar. 
Bake a half hour, or three quarters. Strips of paste may be 
placed over the fruit in the way described for the family 
apple pie (p. 379). (Fr.) See also apple and other pies 
(p. 379). 

Greengage Marmalade is made in the same way as 
apricot marmalade (p. 360) ; but the meats of the stones are 
not put in. (Fr.) 

Mirabelle Plum Marmalade is made in the same way as 
the greengage marmalade. (Fr.) 

Plum Crusts. — Cut some small slices of bread-crumb as 
thick as a quarter-dollar, enough to cover the bottom of a dish. 
Slightly brown some butter, and in it fry the little slices ; and 
with them cover the bottom of the dish ; cover them with halves 
of fully ripe greengage, or Mirabelle, plums, the peel side be- 
low; put into the hollow of each half-plum a plenty of pow- 
dered sugar and a little piece of good butter ; cook in the oven, 
or very hot Dutch oven ; reheat the Dutch oven several times. 
It needs about three quarters of an hour of cooking. Serve 
it up of a fine color. (Fr.) 

Preserving Plums. — Take four quarts of greengages, two 
quarts of sugar and one pint of water. Prick the fruit(p. 359), 
and put it into a preserving kettle; cover amply with cold 
water ; heat to boiling, and boil gently for five minutes ; drain 
well. Put the sugar and water into a preserving kettle, and 
stir over the fire, until the sugar is dissolved. Boil five 
minutes, skimming well. Put the drained greengage into this 
syrup, and cook gently for twenty minutes. Put into sterilized 
jars. Other plums may be preserved in the same way. The 
skins should be peeled from white plums. (Parloa.) 

Stewing and Canning Plums. — Take eight quarts of 
plums, two quarts of sugar and one pint of water. Most 
plums can be cooked with the skins on. If any kind of them 
is to be peeled, plunge them first into boiling water for a few 
minutes. If the skins be left on, prick them thoroughly, to 
prevent bursting. A time-saving fruit-pricker may be made 
with a broad cork pierced with a dozen or more coarse darning 
needles, and tacked on a piece of board. Put the sugar and 
water into the preserving kettle, and stir over the fire, until 
the sugar is dissolved, wash and drain the plums. Put some 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 359 

of the fruit into the boiling syrup. Do not crowd it. Cook 
five minutes; fill and seal the jars. Put more fruit into the 
syrup; and so continue, until all the fruit is done. Against 
possibly finding the syrup insufficient towards the end, it is 
well to have a little extra syrup on the back of the stove. 
(Parloa.) 

Canning Greengage Plums. — Select plums a little green, 
rather than over ripe; prick them here and there with a large 
needle; cut off half the stem; throw them into boiling water, 
and let them boil only one bubble, to keep their green color. 
Drain them, and put them into very strong, wide mouthed 
glass bottles, arranging them as regularly as possible; fill the 
bottles up, but not completely, with a syrup made of a pound 
and eleven ounces of sugar to a quart of water, which has 
been raised just to the boiling point, and then cooled. When 
the fruit and the syrup are in the bottles, with the stoppers 
tightly tied, let them boil in a kettle of water for four minutes, 
with the usual precautions against breaking the bottles ; after 
cooling two or three days, seal the stoppers with wax, and 
put the bottles in a dry, cool place. They will keep at least 
a year. Do not open, until the moment of serving up. (Fr.) 

Canning Mirabelle Plums. — Select plums that are not 
too ripe, a little hard; cut off a little of their stem, put them 
into bottles ; fill the bottles up, yet not quite full, with a syrup 
made of a pound and a half of sugar to a quart of water, 
which after being raised just to boiling, has been completely 
cooled. Then boil the bottles in plenty of water three minutes, 
in the way described for canning greengages. (Fr.) 

Plum Juice. — To preserve plum juice, proceed as for plum 
jelly; but add to each quart of juice half a pint of granulated 
sugar, instead of the quart needed for jelly. If you do not 
care to have the juice transparent, you can squeeze the pulp 
fully dry. (Parloa.) 

Greengage Comfits. — Take genuine greengages, fully de- 
veloped, but some days before complete ripeness; let them be 
still firm and crisp; cut off a little of the stem, prick them 
with a big needle in the crease and all around the stem; and, 
as you do so, throw each one into a pan with water enough 
to cover them all to a depth as much as the breadth of two 
or three fingers. When all the plums have been so prepared, 



360 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

put the pan on the fire, until the water is too hot to hold 
your fingers in it; take the pan from the fire, and put into it 
half an ounce of salt for every three pounds of fruit, let it rest 
about an hour; put the plums again over a gentle fire, and 
stir them; gradually the plums, which had grown yellow, will 
become green again; make the fire a little more active, until 
the water begins to simmer; take the plums one by one from 
the water as soon as they rise to the surface, or become soft, 
and put them into cold water. Drain them and put them into 
a pan. Into an untinned copper or brass sauce-pan put as 
many pounds of sugar as you have pounds of plums, and add 
a cupful of water for each pound of sugar. Boil with a strong 
fire; stir, and skim now and then, until the syrup marks 29 
degrees on the syrup-gauge ; then pour upon the plums ; and 
let them steep 24 hours. Take the fruit from the syrup; set 
the syrup on the fire to boil, until it reaches 32 degrees ; pour 
it again upon the plums and let them steep another 24 hours. 
For the third time, take the syrup separately, and make it 
boil, until it comes to 33 degrees; pour it boiling upon the 
plums; and this time let them steep 48 hours. Then put the 
plums into jars with their syrup; or drain them, dry them 
in a warm place, or in a drying-stove (a closet, or cupboard, 
in which a temperature from 68 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit 
can be maintained), upon a grating, and afterwards pack them 
in boxes. Fruits so prepared can be used for dessert; and 
can also be put in brandy some days before the time for eat- 
ing them. (Fr.) 

Brandied Plums. — Can, or bottle, the plums in the way 
just indicated for greengage comfits (p. 359). Put them, only 
a few days before they are to be eaten, into brandy. This way 
is best for brandied plums, apricots, peaches and pears. (Fr.) 

APRICOT. 

Stewed Apricots. — For a dozen apricots, put into a sauce- 
pan a quarter-pound of sugar and a cupful of water; boil a 
few bubbles, and strain; put in the apricots, either whole or 
in halves ; but, in either case, take pains to remove the stones ; 
cook some minutes ; place them in the preserve-dish ; boil down 
the syrup and pour it upon the fruit. (Fr.) 

Apricot Marmalade. — Take fully ripe apricots, remove 
the stones and the hard spots in the peel; cut the apricots in 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 361 

two, and put them on the fire with an equal weight of sugar. 
You could use one half their weight of sugar, but then would 
need to cook them half an hour, instead of twenty minutes. 
Cook fifteen minutes stirring constantly, pushing the spoon 
to the bottom, to prevent sticking. Break half the stones of 
the apricots used, throw the meats into boiling water, so as 
easily to remove the peel; put the peeled meats, either whole 
or cut in strips, into the marmalade a little before taking it 
from the fire. To be sure that the marmalade is fully cooked, 
put a little of it on the end of your finger ; if, on pressing your 
thumb on it and lifting it, a thread is formed, the marmalade 
is done; put it into jars. (Fr.) 

Apricots in Conde Fashion are prepared in the same way 
as plums in Conde fashion (p. 357). 

Apricot Crusts are made in exactly the same way as plum 
crusts (p. 358). (Fr.) 

Apricot Pudding or Dumpling is made in exactly the 
same way as the French apple pudding, or dumpling (p. 376) ; 
only neither lemon nor spices are put in. Remove the 
stones. (Fr.) 

Apricot Fritters are made in the same way as apple 
fritters (p. 378). The apricots should not be too ripe, and 
should only be cut in two, and not peeled. (Fr.) 

Apricot Pie. — -For ten or twelve persons, a dozen apricots. 
Make a paste shell, as already described (p. 319). Cut the 
apricots in two; do not peel them; put them in rows on the 
paste, the skin below; in the hollow of each half put a bit 
of the stone-meat, which you have blanched; sprinkle with 
powdered sugar; bake half an hour, or three quarters. (Fr.) 
See also apple and other pies (p. 379). 

Canning Apricots. — Take preferably apricots of standard 
trees, because they have more flavor, and keep their shape 
better; cut them in two; take the meats of the stones, and 
peel them after dipping them for some minutes in boiling 
water; place the half-apricots and meats in wide-mouthed 
bottles and proceed as for Mirabelle plums, boiling four 
minutes. (Fr.) 

Apricot Preserve. — Select apricots not quite ripe, cut 
them in two, remove the stones. Proceed as for canning straw- 



362 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

berries (p. 347) ; but cook about half an hour, and in putting 
the apricots into jars, mix in, at most, one half the meats of 
their stones, having peeled the meats and cut them into small 
bits. (Fr.) 

Apricot Comfits are made in the same way as greengage 
comfits (p. 359). (Fr.) 

Brandied Apricots. — Can, or bottle, the apricots in the 
way indicated for greengage comfits (p. 359). Put them, only 
a few days before they are to be eaten, into brandy. This 
way is best for brandied apricots. (Fr.) 

PEACH. 

Stewed Peaches. — For a dozen peaches, put into a sauce- 
pan a quarter-pound of sugar and a cupful of water; boil a 
few bubbles, and skim ; put in the peaches, either whole or in 
halves, but, in either case, remove the stones; cook some 
minutes ; place them in the preserve-dish ; boil down the syrup, 
and pour it upon the fruit. (Fr.) 

Peaches in Conde Fashion are made in the same way as 
plums in Conde fashion (p. 357). (Fr.) 

Peach Crusts are made in exactly the same way as plum 
crusts (p. 358). (Fr.) 

Peach Fritters are made in the same way as apple frit- 
ters (p. 378). The peaches should not be too ripe, and 
should only be cut in two and peeled. (Fr.) 

Peach Pie is made like apricot pie (p. 361), but sprinkle 
it with much sugar and with a little vanilla powder, and omit 
the stone-meat. With a low-bordered pie plate, you can place 
over the fruit the strips of paste, as indicated for the family 
apple pie (p. 379). (Fr.) See also apple and other pies 
(p. 379). 

Peach Preserve. — Select peaches not quite ripe, peel 
them, stone them, cut them in halves or quarters. • Proceed in 
the same way as for canning strawberries ; but cook about half 
an hour; and add a little kirsch to the syrup just before fill- 
ing the jars. (Fr.) 

Stewing and Canning Peaches. — Stir a quart of sugar 
in three quarts of water over the fire, until dissolved. When 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. ob6 

the syrup boils, skim it. Draw the kettle back, where the 
syrup will keep hot without boiling. Pare eight quarts of 
peaches, cut them in halves, and remove the stones, unless you 
prefer to can the fruit whole. Put a layer of the fruit so 
prepared into the preserving kettle, and cover it with some 
of the hot syrup. When the fruit begins to boil, skim care- 
fully. Boil gently for ten minutes; then put into the jars, 
and seal. If the fruit is not fully ripe, it may require a 
little longer cooking. It should be tender enough to be easily 
pierced with a fork. It is best to put only one layer of fruit 
at a time into the preserving kettle. While it is cooking, the 
next batch may be prepared. (Parloa.) 

Peach Comfits are made in the same way as greengage 
comfits (p. 359). (Fr.) 

Brandied Peaches. — Can, or bottle, the peaches in the 
way indicated for greengage comfits (p. 359). Put them, only 
a few days before they are to be eaten, into brandy. This 
way is best for the brandied peaches. (Fr.) 

WATERMELON. 

The rind of the watermelon is often substituted for citron 
in making preserves and sweet pickles. (Beattie.) 

CITRON. 

The citron is a type of watermelon with solid flesh, that 
is used for preserves and sweet pickles. (Beattie. ) 

ORANGE. 

Orange Water-Ice. — For ten or twelve persons: Put a 
pound of sugar and a cupful of water into a sauce-pan; boil, 
and skim well; after fully skimming, take from the fire, add 
another cupful of water and the juice of three oranges and 
of three lemons and the zest of three oranges; let them steep 
an hour; strain through a sieve, and put into the freezer, fill- 
ing it only two thirds full, and freeze in the way already de- 
scribed (p. 340). (Fr.) 

Orange and Lemon Syrup. — Put a pound of sugar with 
a cupful of water into a pan upon the fire; make it bubble 
two or three times, and let it cool; when it is cold, add to it 



364 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

the zest of six oranges and three lemons ; cover it up, and let 
it steep for 24 hours; then add a quart of water and the 
juice of the oranges and lemons ; strain through a cloth 
strainer, and put into a pan with three pounds of sugar ; warm, 
until the sugar is completely melted, and the syrup marks 32 
degrees on the syrup-gauge. Cool it a little, and put it into 
bottles. (Fr.) 

Orange Syrup. — Squeeze the juice when the fruit is in 
its best state, and strain through fine muslin or flannel; take 
equal quantities of juice and clarified syrup; boil it with a 
little of the rind, pared very thin; when it is quite clear, pour 
it into a jug; and when it is cold, bottle it in small bottles. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Orangeflower Lozenges. — Melt some sugar with very 
little water, in an untinned frying-pan; boil, until the syrup 
is so thick, that when a finger wet with cold water is dipped 
into the syrup, and then plunged quickly into cold water, the 
syrup forms a sort of a glue. Put into it some finely cut 
orangeflower petals, cook them until on pouring a few drops 
upon a plate they will harden; then slowly pour the mixture 
by drops, or in thin sheets, as you prefer, upon a very slightly 
oiled marble slab. You put more or less of the flower as you 
like; you can put in much. When the sugar has cooled in the 
pan, so as no longer to flow, put it on the fire again. These 
lozenges keep very well a whole year, and are a good resource 
for desserts. (Fr.) 

Burnt Orangeflower. — Pick over some orangeflower 
petals, and throw them for a moment into boiling water, to 
blanch them. Cook some sugar, until it has the consistency 
of glue; put the flowers into it, and continue to boil the sugar, 
to bring it back to the consistency it had; take from the fire, 
and stir, until the sugar becomes like sand ; when you can bear 
your hand in it, take the orangeflower out, and let it dry on 
paper. Burnt orangeflower serves to flavor culinary prepara- 
tions in which you cannot use orangeflower water. Before use 
it is chopped fine. (Fr.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 365 

MUSKMELON OR CANTELOPE. 

There are a number of good varieties of muskmelon, and 
the Rocky Ford, or Netted Gem, is one of the best. (Beattie.) 
It is nowadays rather the fasbion to call them by a more 
modern corruption of the French name cantaloup than the well 
established English word cantelope. 

Select muskmelons that have been freshly gathered, and 
are comparatively heavy, with the stem fresh and loose, and 
with much flavor. The ripeness is indicated by the easy de- 
taching of the stem; and the part of the melon opposite to 
the stem should bend under the thumb. The melon is reck- 
oned a side dish, but in some countries is a dessert. When a 
side dish, it should face another melon, or a fine pyramid of 
fresh figs, a fruit that also serves either for a side dish or 
for dessert. When there is only one melon and no figs, the 
melon looks best in the middle of the table. It is commonly 
served up immediately after the soup, at the same time with 
the boiled meat, or the warm side dishes. (Fr.) 

GRAPE. 

Stewed Grapes. — Into a sauce-pan put a quarter-pound 
of sugar and half a cupful of water; boil, and reduce to a 
syrup; put into it a pound of grapes stripped from the stems 
and stoned; boil a few bubbles, and pour into the preserve 
dish. (Fr.) 

Stewing and Canning Grapes. — Take six quarts of 
grapes, one quart of sugar and one gill of water. Squeeze 
the pulp of the grapes out of the skin. Cook the pulp five 
minutes, and then rub through a sieve fine enough to remove 
the seeds. Put the water, skins and pulp into the preserving 
kettle, and heat slowly to boiling. Skim the fruit, and then 
add the sugar; boil fifteen minutes. Sweet grapes need less 
sugar; very sour ones may have more. (Fr.) 

Grape Pie. — Stone the grapes with a tooth-pick; or you 
can leave them unstoned. Make and arrange a pie-paste shell 
in the way already described (p. 319). Place the grapes in 
rows on the paste very close together; sprinkle with powdered 
sugar; bake half an hour, or three quarters. (Fr.) 

Grape Preserve. — Select fine, fully ripe grapes. Stone 
them with a tooth-pick. Put their weight of sugar and half a 



366 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

cupful of water for each pound of sugar into a pan; boil with 
a big fire; skim. When the syrup is quite thick, and makes 
big bubbles, and is on the point of changing color, put into it 
the prepared grapes. Boil two or three bubbles ; put the 
grapes into j ars ; boil down the syrup, and pour it upon the 
grapes. (Fr.) 

Canning or Bottling Grape Juice. — Wash and stem the 
grapes; put them into the preserving kettle, and crush them 
slightly. Heat slowly, and boil gently half an hour. Crush 
them with a wooden spoon. Turn them and the juice into a 
square of cheese cloth on a sieve, or colander, over a large 
bowl; drain well; then draw the edges of the cheese cloth 
together, and twist hard, to press out all the juice possible. 
Put the strained juice into a clean preserving kettle over the 
fire. When it boils up, draw it back, and skim. Let it boil 
up again, and skim it; then add the granulated sugar (say, a 
gill for each quart of juice), and stir until it is dissolved. 
Boil five minutes, skimming carefully. Fill hot sterilized jars, 
or, better, good bottles (self-sealing beer bottles are most con- 
venient, but must be carefully sterilized, both bottle and 
corks). Put the filled jars, or bottles, into a moderate oven 
for ten minutes, in pans of boiling water. Have some boiling 
juice at hand, and pour a little of it into the jars, as they 
come from the oven ; then seal. Place on boards, and set aside, 
away from any cold draft. Very sweet, Californian grapes 
need no sugar. Grape-juice is particularly good as a drink. 
(Parloa.) 

Preserving Fruit in Grape Juice. — Any kind of fruit 
can be preserved in grape juice; but apples, pears and plums 
are particularly good. No sugar is needed. In an open pre- 
serving kettle, boil down six quarts of grape juice to four. 
Put the fruit, washed and peeled, and, if apples or pears, 
quartered and cored, into a preserving kettle, and cover amply 
with the boiled grape juice, boil gently, until the fruit is clear 
and tender; then put into sterilized jars. (Parloa.) 

Grape Jelly. — An acid grape is best for jelly; the sweet, 
ripe grapes contain too much sugar. Half ripe fruit, or equal 
portions of nearly ripe and green grapes are satisfactory. 
Wild grapes make delicious jelly. Make in the same way as 
currant jelly. (Parloa.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 367 

AVOCADO, OR ALLIGATOR PEAR. 

The avocado or alligator pear is cultivated in Florida, and 
is brought to our northern cities. It is claimed that " it makes 
a delicious salad." It is very rich in oil, containing 54 per 
cent, of it (disregarding the water) and only 5.3 per cent, 
of protein (according to Wiley). 

FIG. 

Fig Comfits. — Make a slit in fresh figs on the side oppo- 
site to the stem; then make comfits of them in the same way 
as the greengage comfits are made (p. 359). (Fr.) 

PEAR. 

Dried Pears. — Take some russet pears almost ripe, peel 
them carefully, cut off the end of the stem ; put them, as you 
do so, into a pan full of water ; boil with little bubbles ; feel 
them, and when they yield under your finger, take them out 
with a skimmer, and throw them into cold water; then drain 
them. In a pan melt two pounds of sugar in three pints of 
water for each hundred pears ; boil, and skim ; cover the bot- 
tom of the pan with pears. Let them boil one bubble, and take 
them out, and put them in an earthen pan; then put other 
pears in the sugar, in successive batches, until they have all 
been there ; let them cool, and place them on gratings, the stem 
upwards, slightly flattening them, without crushing them; put 
them in the oven when the bread is taken out, and leave them 
there several hours ; before putting them there again, dip them 
in the cold syrup, replace them on the gratings, repeating the 
operation up to four times; then arrange them in boxes, two 
layers, one above the other, then a sheet of paper, and two 
layers of pears, and so on; keep them in a dry place. The 
syrup that is left over can be used for all kinds of comfits and 
preserves. (Fr.) The Armenians say: " Never peel a pear; 
but peel apples." 

Stewed Pears. — For one dishful: Peel six fine pears; eight 
or ten, if they are small; cut them in quarters, if they are 
large, and take out the core; leave them whole, if they are 
small. As they are ready, throw them into water, so as not to 
turn dark colored; dissolve a quarter-pound of sugar in two 
cupf uls of water ; put the pears into it ; sprinkle in some lemon 



368 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

juice, if you like, to keep them white; cook with a not too 
lively fire ; when the pears are cooked, set them up in the pre- 
serve dish, cutting a little from the large ends, if they are 
whole pears ; boil down the syrup with a strong fire, and pour 
it upon the pears. If you wish the pears to be white when 
cooked, you must use a kettle that is not metallic ; if you wish 
them to be of a fine red color, use a tinned copper kettle, and 
be sure not to put in any lemon juice. (Fr.) 

Stewed Pears with Wine. — For one dishful: Peel six fine 
pears; eight or ten if they are small; cut them in quarters, if 
they are large, and take out the core; leave them whole, if 
they are small. Put them into a sauce-pan with a cupful of 
water, a quarter-pound of sugar, and a quite small piece of 
cinnamon; cook with a small fire; when the pears are almost 
cooked, add a cupful of red wine; when the pears are done, 
take them out; arrange them in the preserve dish; boil down 
the syrup with a strong fire, and pour it upon the pears. 
(Fr.) 

Pears in German Fashion. — For six persons, take six or 
eight breaking pears (not melting ones) according to their 
size; peel them, and cut them in pieces, putting them, as you 
do so, into water at once, lest they turn dark; turn them over 
the fire with some butter as large as an egg ; sprinkle them with 
flour, moisten them with a cupful of water, add a quarter- 
pound of sugar, and let them cook; at the moment of serving 
up, thicken them with two egg-yolks (p. 117). (Fr.) 

Pears in Conde Fashion are prepared in the same way as 
plums in Conde fashion (p. 357). 

Pear Dumplings. — For 12 dumplings, make a hole in the 
middle of a pound or a quart of flour; put into it an egg, a 
quarter-pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of fine salt and a 
quarter of a cupful of water; moisten, and mix the whole 
well together; or else simply take a pound of dough at the 
baker's, and mix with it a quarter-pound of butter (or half 
a cupful of oil) and a teaspoonful of fine salt. Make twelve 
parts of one or the other of these pastes ; roll out each part 
as thin as a quarter-dollar ; wrap in each a piece of pear, or 
an apple, peeled or not; if you use pears, cook them in 
sugared water before wrapping them in the paste, since they 
are rather long in cooking. Gild the tops of the dumplings 
a little. Cook them about half an hour. (Fr.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 869 

Pear Pie. — Pears take rather long to cook ; and it is, there- 
fore, well to cook them beforehand with a little water and 
sugar. They can be used either whole or cut in pieces. If 
they are left whole, they should have a little taken off from 
the big end, so that they may stand upright. Make and ar- 
range a pie-paste shell in the way already indicated (p. 319). 
Bake it a little, place the pears, or quarters of pears, in rows 
upon it; sprinkle it with the syrup in which the pears were 
cooked; and put it in the oven. (Fr.) 

Stewing and Canning Pears. — Ripe pears may be treat- 
ed just like peaches (p. 362) ; but rather hard ones must be 
cooked until tender enough to be easily pierced with a fork. 
(Parloa.) 

Pear Preserve. — Select rather firm pears; peel them; if 
they are small, leave them whole; if they are rather large, cut 
them in halves or quarters ; take out the cores and the stony 
parts; as soon as each pear is ready, throw it into cold water, 
to prevent its turning dark. Into a pan put three quarters 
of a pound of sugar for each pound of pears, and a cupful 
of water for each pound of sugar; as soon as the sugar is 
melted, put the pears into the pan; cook two hours and a 
half, or three hours, with a small fire, and without stirring; 
boil the syrup down, till it is quite thick; put into jars. (Fr.) 

Norman Preserve of Pears, Apples, or the like. — Take 
cider just from the press; boil it six hours with small bubbles; 
stir now and then, and skim well; when it is boiled down to 
about one-half, put into it some peeled, quartered, cored and 
picked-over pears or apples (commonly sweet apples) ; there 
should be enough of the cider syrup to cover the fruit com- 
pletely; simmer twelve hours, and when the syrup is suffi- 
ciently boiled down, put it into jars. These preserves, if well 
made, keep several years. In addition to the pears, you can 
put in carrots that are tender and not stringy, cutting them 
somewhat in pear-shape; but they should be put in much ear- 
lier than the pears, because much more time is needed for the 
carrots to cook, and they will cook badly, if put into syrup 
that is too thick. (Fr.) 

Pear Comfits are made in the same way as the greengage 
comfits (p. 359). (Fr.) 

Brandied Pears are made in the same way as brandied 
plums (p. 360). (Fr.) 



870 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Burgundy Grape and Pear Preserve. — Stone some fully 
ripe grapes, strain them with pressure through a wet cloth; 
put the juice into a kettle, and boil down one half, carefully 
skimming, and stirring now and then, to prevent its sticking; 
put into it some pears cut in quarters and well picked over; 
again boil down one third; put into jars. In countries where 
the grape does not so ripen as to become very sweet, some 
sugar must be added to the grape juice, even as much as three 
pounds for ten pounds of juice; and then the preserve is less 
boiled down, and is better, and keeps longer. When there 
are no pears, they can be replaced advantageously by carrots 
that are tender and not stringy; they should be cut slanting, 
in shape something like quarters of pears, and thrown into 
the grape juice as soon as it is put on the fire; because they 
need much longer time to cook than pears. (Fr.) 



CRANBERRY. 

Keeping Cranberries. — Keep the fruit in a tub of water ; 
change the water occasionally, to keep it fresh; and throw 
out the imperfect fruit. (Haskell.) 

Cranberry Sauce. — Wash a quart of lipe cranberries; put 
them into a pan with about a wineglassful of water. Stew 
them slowly, stirring often, particularly after they begin to 
burst. They require a great deal of stirring, and should be 
like a marmalade, when done. Just before taking them from 
the fire, stir a pound of sugar in. When they are thoroughly 
done, put them into a deep dish, and set them away to cool. 
You may strain the pulp through a colandar, or sieve, into a 
mould, and, when it is in a firm shape, send it to the table in 
a glass dish. Taste it when it is cold; and if it be not sweet 
enough, add more sugar. Cranberries need more sugar than 
any other fruit except plums. (Leslie.) 

Cranberry Pie. — The cranberry sauce just described can 
be made into a pie, or tart, merely putting it into a paste- 
shell already baked, and, if you like, adding strips of paste 
over the surface of the sauce in the way indicated for the 
family apple pie (p. 379) ; or a covering layer of paste may 
be put on. See also Apple and Other Pies (p. 379). 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 871 

LYCHEE. 

The lychee, or lychee nut, as it is often called, is found, 
in its dried condition, at Chinese shops in America; and then 
has a thin fragile outer shell as large as an English walnut, a 
black shrivelled, spicy-flavored, sweet, somewhat prunelike 
pulp at a little distance inside, covering a stone at the centre. 
The cheaper qualities have a rather large smooth stone; the 
better, and four times dearer (say, one dollar a catty, a pound 
and a third), no-mai (or no-my) lychee has a quite small 
shrunken stone. The pulp is also sometimes brought as a 
preserve to America in sealed tin cans, and is then white. 

BLUEBERRY. 

Stewing and Canning Blueberries. — Put twelve quarts 
of blueberries, one quart of sugar and one pint of water into 
a preserving kettle ; heat slowly ; boil fifteen minutes from the 
time bubbling begins. (Parloa.) 

HUCKLEBERRY. 

Huckleberry Pudding. — Make a light batter, and stir in 
enough berries to make the pudding black. It may be boiled 
or baked. Serve it up hot, with rich sweet, or wine, sauce. 
(Haskell.) 

QUINCE. 

Stewed Quinces. — For one dishful six quinces. Throw 
them into boiling water, and let them half cook; take them 
out, and put them for some minutes into cold water; cut them 
in quarters ; peel them ; take out the core, put into a sauce- 
pan a cupful of water and half a pound of sugar; boil a few 
bubbles and skim ; put in the quince-quarters ; when they are 
cooked, take them out, and put them into the preserve-dish, 
boil down the syrup with a lively fire, and pour it into the pre- 
serve-dish. (Fr.) 

Stewing Quinces for Canning. — Take four quarts of 
quinces, three pints of sugar and two quarts of water. Rub 
the quinces hard with a coarse crash towel, then wash, and 
drain. Pare, quarter, and core; drop the pieces into cold 
water, acidulated with a tablespoonful of lemon juice to a 
quart of the water, to keep the fruit white, in case of delay. 



372 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Put them into the preserving kettle with cold wetter amply to 
cover them. Heat slowly, and simmer gently, until they are 
tender, taking each piece up as soon as it is tender enough to 
be readily pierced with a fork. Some pieces need longer 
cooking than others. Drain on a platter. Strain the cook- 
ing water through cheese cloth; put two quarts of it and the 
sugar into the preserving ketle, and stir over the fire, until 
the sugar is dissolved. When it boils, skim well, and put the 
cooked fruit in. Boil gently about twenty minutes. (Par- 
loa.) 

Preserving Quinces. — Boil four quarts of pared, quar- 
tered and cored quinces in clear water, until they are tender; 
then skim them out, and drain them. Put two quarts of 
sugar and one quart of water into the preserving kettle, and 
stir until the sugar is dissolved. Heat slowly to boiling; skim 
well, and boil twenty minutes. Pour half of the syrup into a 
second kettle; and put half of the cooked and drained fruit, 
as well as half of the syrup, into each kettle. Simmer gently 
half an hour; then put into sterilized jars. The water in 
which the fruit was boiled can be used with the parings, cores 
and gnarly fruit to make jelly. (Parloa.) 

Quince Jelly. — Rub the quinces with a coarse crash 
towel; cut out the blossom end. Wash them, pare, and cut in 
quarters. Cut out the cores, and put them it a dish apart. 
Drop the perfect pieces of fruit into a large bowl half full of 
water, to be preserved or canned. Put the parings and im- 
perfect parts, cut very fine, into the preserving kettle. Add 
a quart of water to every two quarts of fruit and parings. 
Put on the fire, and cook gently for two hours. Strain, and 
finish in the same way as apple jelly (p. 380). — For a second 
quality cook the cores, well covered with water, in another 
kettle, and add to them the parings and imperfect fruit, that 
have been drained of their juice for the first quality jelly. 
Mix well; turn into the straining cloth, and press out all the 
juice possible. Put the juice into the preserving kettle with 
a pint of sugar to a pint of juice, and boil ten minutes. 
(Parloa.) 

French Quince Jelly. — Take thoroughly ripe quinces, 
and proceed as for apple jelly (p. 380) ; but no lemon is put 
into quince jelly. (Fr.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 373 



APPLE. 



Stewed Apples. — For one dishful: Peel four fine pip- 
pins, or tart apples ; cut them in two ; remove the seeds ; put 
the half-apples, as soon as each one is ready, into cold water, 
to hinder their turning brown; dissolve a quarter-pound of 
sugar in a cupful of water; put the half apples into it; take 
them out when they are cooked, without waiting until they 
lose their shape. Place them in a preserve-dish; boil down 
the liquor, and pour it upon the apples. You can ornament 
them with currant jelly, a charming arrangement; but do not 
add the jelly until the apples are quite cold. The apples can 
also be cooked whole. They are peeled, and cored with a 
corer; they are cooked in a syrup abundant enough to cover 
them; when cooked, they are taken out; the syrup is boiled 
down with a strong fire, and poured upon them; when cold, 
they are ornamented with currant jelly put into the holes left 
by the corer. (Fr.) 

Apple-Marmalade, or Apple Charlotte. — For six per- 
sons, twelve average apples. Peel, pick over, and cut in 
pieces ; put into a saucepan with some butter as large as an 
egg (or four spoonfuls of oil), and a quarter-pound of sugar, 
a little cinnamon, or orangeflower water, if you like the flavor ; 
if the apples are not very juicy, add one or two tablespoonfuls 
of water ; cook with a gentle fire and covered sauce-pan, often 
stirring, lest the marmalade stick to the bottom of the pan; 
crush thoroughly, even pass through the strainer, if you wish 
to have it very fine; pour into a dish, and smooth the surface 
if you wish to serve it up warm, sprinkle it with powdered 
sugar, and over it pass the red hot shovel, and surround it with 
fried bread bits. If you wish to serve it up cold, ornament 
it with currant jelly or other preserves. (Fr.) 

Apple Sauce. — Six apples; butter (or palatable oil); and 
sugar. Prepare the apples as for a pie ; put them in a sauce- 
pan with a tablespoonful of water; cover the pan, and set it 
over a moderate fire, till the apples are soft; drain the water 
from them, and stir in a little butter (or palatable oil) ; and 
moist sugar. They will do equally well, if put into a basin 
covered with a plate, and set in the oven. ("Vegetarian Cook- 
ery.") 

Mounted Apple Charlotte. — Make an apple-marma- 
lade, as just described, and let it be quite thick. Cover the 



374 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

bottom of a mould, or sauce-pan, with triangular fried bread- 
bits placed orderly from the circumference to the centre, with 
no space between the points of the bits at the centre ; and gar- 
nish also the border all around with fried bread-bits cut 
oblong. Place the marmalade in the midst of the bread-bits. 
Put it fifteen or twenty minutes in the oven, or in the Dutch 
oven. Overturn upon a dish, and serve it up warm. To make 
a more delicate dish, put the marmalade in layers in the midst 
of the bread-bits, alternating with layers of currant jelly, or 
apricot, or plum, marmalade. (Fr.) 

Apple Charlotte in Merang Fashion. — Make a plain 
apple marmalade, as above described, but quite thick. Put 
it somewhat in pyramid form in a dish and smooth the surface. 
Whip two whites of egg to a very stiff froth, adding two spoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar; cover with this froth the apple mar- 
malade; sprinkle with sugar, and brown in a very hot oven. 
Serve up warm. (Fr.) The whites of eggs will supply pro- 
tein so lacking in the fruit. 

Buttered Apples. — For six persons, si: average apples. 
Peel them, core them with a tin corer, taking care not to in- 
jure them. Fry slices of bread-crumb in butter. Butter (or 
oil) the tart dish ; place in it the slices of bread, and the apples 
on them ; fill the core holes of the apples with sugar and butter 
(or oil) ; sprinkle with sugar. Put them in a Dutch oven with 
a gentle fire below ; renew the fire now and then. They should 
cook with a small fire, so that the bread below shall not burn, 
nor the apples dry too much. When they are done serve up. 
Some pour upon them at the moment of serving up, a little 
syrup made of water and sugar. (Fr.) 

Blazing Apples. — For six persons, peel twelve small 
apples; put them into a saucepan with water enough to cover 
them, and with a quarter-pound of sugar, a little cinnamon, 
or orange-zest, or lemon-zest; boil until they are cooked, but 
not until they lose shape; take them out carefully one after 
another, and put them in pyramid form into u dish; boil down 
the liquor to a thick syrup; pour it upon the apples, wetting 
them all; sprinkle them strongly with powdered sugar; from 
a strainer shower upon the top of the pyramid a rather large 
quantity of rum, so that it may be set afire at the moment of 
placing the dish on the table. The rum will not take fire if 
the apples are not very warm. (Fr.) 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 375 

Apples in Conde Fashion are prepared in the same way 
as pears in Conde fashion (p. 368). 

Marlborough Pudding (or Pie). — Pare, core, and quar- 
ter six large ripe pippin apples. Stew them in half a pint of 
water. When they are soft, but not yet broken, take them 
out, drain them through a sieve, and mash them to a paste 
with the back of a spoon. Mix with them six large table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and a quarter-pound of butter, and set 
them away to get cold. Grate two milk biscuits, or small 
sponge cakes, or an equal quantity of stale bread, and grate 
also the yellow peel of a large lemon, and squeeze out its 
juice. Beat six eggs light, and when the apple is cold, stir 
them gradually into it, adding the grated biscuit and lemon. 
Stir in a wineglassful of rosewater and a grated nutmeg. Put 
the mixture into a buttered dish or dishes, laying around the 
edge a border of puff paste (or put the mixture into a shell 
of plain paste) ; and bake it three quarters of an hour. When 
it is cold, dredge white sugar over the top, and ornament it 
with slips of citron handsomely arranged. (Leslie.) 

Bird's Nest Pudding. — Take nine large pippin apples; 
pare, and core them whole. Set them in the bottom of a large 
deep dish, and pour around them a very little water, just 
enough to keep them from burning. Put them into an oven, 
and let them bake about half an hour. Meanwhile mix three 
tablespoonfuls of flour with a quart of milk, or terralac (bet- 
ter, if previously boiled with a small handful of peach leaves, 
and cooled), a quarter-pound of sugar, and a teaspoonful of 
mixed spices. Beat seven eggs very light, and stir them grad- 
ually into the milk. Then take out the dish of apples (by 
this time half baked), and with sugar fill up the holes from 
which the cores were taken, pressing into each a slice of fresh 
lemon. Pour the batter around the apples ; put the dish into 
the oven again, and bake another half hour; but not long 
enough for the apples to fall to pieces ; for they should when 
done, be soft throughout, though quite whole. Send it to the 
table warm. (Leslie.) 

Apple and Bread Pudding. — One pound and a quarter 
of apples; three quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs; and 
three ounces of sugar. Butter a pudding-dish; put in half 
the apples, pared and cut as for a pie; add half the sugar, 
two tablespoonfuls of water, half the crumbs, and then the rest 



376 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

of the apples and sugar, and cover smoothly with the rest 
of the crumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven, laying a 
plate or dish over, till about half done, to prevent the top 
from becoming hard and dry. Cooked rice may be used instead 
of bread-crumbs, and rhubarb or green gooseberries may be 
used instead of apples. When apples begin to lose their 
flavor, a little lemon juice may be added. ("Vegetarian Cook- 
ery.") 

Boiled Apple and Bread Pudding. — Two large apples; 
a quarter of a pound of bread and butter; half a cupful of 
water; and sugar. Line a pint basin with bread and butter; 
put on a layer of apples, pared as for a pie; sugar and then 
follow with the bread and butter and apples again, till the 
basin is full; pour the water over the whole; cover with a 
cloth, and boil one hour. ("Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Boiled Apple Pudding, or Dumpling. — Mix well by 
hand eight ounces of flour, two ounces of butter (or four spoon- 
fuls of oil), a saltspoonful of salt; make a heap with a hole 
in the middle ; break one egg into it, stir it well together with 
your finger, and by degrees infuse enough water to make it 
a stiff paste ; roll it out two or three times ; then roll it large 
enough to receive thirteen ounces of apples. It will look 
neater if boiled in a well buttered basin, than if boiled in a 
well floured cloth; boil it an hour and three-quarters. The 
surest way is to stew the apples beforehand with a wineglass- 
ful of water; and then one hour will boil it. Some people 
like it flavored with cloves and lemon peel, and sweeten it with 
two ounces of sugar. In the same way, puddings (or dump- 
lings) are made of gooseberries, currants, raspberries, cher- 
ries, damsons and various plums and fruits. (Kitchiner.) 

French Boiled Apple Pudding, or Dumpling. — Take a 
pound of flour; make a hole in the middle; put into it a half 
pound of butter (or a cupful of oil), one egg-yolk, two tea- 
spoonfuls of fine salt, about a cupful of water, or of milk; 
knead the whole well together; make two parts of the dough, 
but one much larger than the other; roll out the larger part 
to about half the thickness of your finger, and spread it over 
the inside of a large bowl, or deep pudding dish; fill it up 
heaping full with apples, that you have peeled, cleaned, and 
cut in pieces; sprinkle with a little powdered four-spices 
(that is, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper and cinnamon or 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 377 

ginger), and with lemon-zest chopped fine, and with a quarter- 
pound of powdered sugar. Roll out the other piece of dough ; 
with it cover the apples ; neatly unite the two pieces of dough 
by means of wetting their edges; cover the pudding with a 
cloth firmly tied below the rim of the bowl and brought to- 
gether above. Boil the pudding continuously in boiling water, 
which should be replenished, when necessary, with boiling 
water. When the pudding, or dumpling, is cooked, turn it 
over into a dish, and serve it up warm, along with powdered 
sugar, in case the guests do not find it sweet enough. The 
left-over part can be warmed over with sugared water. (Fr.) 

Another Boiled Apple Pudding, or Dumpling. — Pare, 
core, and quarter as many fine juicy apples as will weigh two 
pounds, when done. Strew among them a quarter-pound of 
powdered sugar, and add a grated nutmeg and the juice and 
yellow peel of a large lemon. Make a paste of butter (or 
oil) and flour, a pound of butter (or a pint of oil) to two 
pounds of flour (and, say a pint of water, or milk, or terralac). 
Roll it out of moderate thickness ; lay the apples in the centre, 
and close the paste nicely over them in the form of a large 
dumpling. Tie it in a cloth, and boil it three hours. Send 
it to the table hot, and eat it with cream sauce, or with butter 
and sugar. Any fruit dumpling, or pudding, may be made 
in the same way. (Leslie.) 

Apple Dumplings. — Take large fine juicy applea, not 
sweet ones. Pare them, and take out the cores without divid- 
ing the apples. If they were quartered they would separate 
in boiling and break through the crust. Fill each hole with 
powdered sugar and some chips of lemon-peel, and squeeze in 
some lemon- juice. Or you may fill the cavities with rasp- 
berry jam, or with any sort of marmalade. Have ready a 
paste made in the proportion of a pound of butter to two 
pounds and a half of sifted flour, well mixed, and wetted with 
as little water as possible (half a pint of dried bread crumbs 
and half a pint of flour with two eggs and water for a paste 
thick enough to roll. — Beecher). Roll out the paste to a mod- 
erate thickness, and cut into circular pieces, allowing two 
pieces for each dumpling. Lay an apple on one piece, and 
put another piece on the top, closing the paste around the 
sides with your fingers, so as to cover the apple entirely. In 
that way, the dumpling is less likely to burst, than if the paste 



378 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

were all gathered up at one end. Boil each dumpling in a 
small coarse cloth, which has first been dipped in hot water. 
A set of cloths should be kept for the purpose. Tie them 
tightly, plastering a little flour inside each tying place to keep 
the water out (tie tight, as they will not swell. — Beecher). 
Put the dumplings at once into a pot of boiling water, and 
boil them from three quarters of an hour to an hour. Do not 
take them up, till a moment before they are wanted. Send 
them to the table hot in a covered dish. Eat them with cream 
and sugar or with butter and sugar. Apple dumplings may 
be made in a very plain way with potato paste, and boiled 
without cloths, dredging the outside of each dumpling with 
flour. They should then be boiled about three quarters of 
an hour. (Leslie.) 

French Apple Dumplings are made as described under 
pear dumplings (p. 368). (Fr.) 

Apple Croquettes. — For six persons, twelve average 
apples. Peel them, cut them in quarters, remove the seeds. 
Put over the fire with half a pound of sugar and some lemon- 
zest chopped fine; cook and reduce to marmalade with a not 
too lively fire; cool down; mix thoroughly with eight yolks 
of eggs ; put on the fire again, stirring all the time ; when 
the whole is well thickened, take it off again; be sure not to 
let it boil. Let it completely cool. Make little balls of it; 
flour them, dip them in the whites of eggs, that you have 
beaten with some spoonfuls of water; then dip the balls in 
finely crumbled bread-crumb. Fry in very hot butter. (Fr.) 

Apple Fritters. — The batter already described for plain 
fritters (p. 312) is used for making apple fritters. Make it 
thick by stirring into it very finely minced, pared, cored and 
parboiled, half cooked apples, with some lemon-juice and 
grated lemon-peel. Then fry the fritters as already directed 
for fritters, and eat them with nutmeg and sugar. (Leslie.) 

French Apple Fritters. — For sixty fritters, eight to ten 
apples, at most. Take a pound of flour; make a hole in the 
middle; put into it four yolks of eggs, two spoonfuls of 
brandy, a teaspoonful of fine salt; mix little by little with the 
flour; then add little by little a pint and a half of milk, or 
terralac (be sure to mix little by little, lest there should be 
lumps of flour). A half hour before using the batter, add to 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 379 

it, mixing well, the four whites of eggs eaten to froth. Dip 
into this batter round slices of apples, as thick as a quarter- 
dollar; fry them in hot butter to a fine brownish color. — What 
is left over of the batter, if any, can be used for griddle cakes ; 
only, it must be thinned, with a little water or milk, or ter- 
ralac, or the cakes would be too thick. (Fr.) 

Apple Pie. — Fill the paste-shell prepared as described on 
p. 319 with apple sauce, or marmalade (p. 373), and bake 
in a rather hot oven for half an hour, or three quarters. 
Another Apple Pie. — Arrange the paste-shell in the pie 
plate, as already described (p. 319). Fill it with a layer of 
apple sauce (p. 373) as thick as your finger; upon the sauce 
make circular rows of apple slices as thick as a cent, over- 
lapping a little at their edges ; sprinkle with powdered sugar ; 
bake in a hot oven, or in a Dutch oven, half an hour, or three 
quarters. English Apple Pie. — Make paste in the way 
above described; roll it out as thin as a cent, and instead of 
putting it into a pie plate, cut it into a square or oblong shape, 
and place it on a sheet of paper, or sheet iron, slightly but- 
tered, or floured ; on this paste place rows of little slices of 
apple, a little overlapping at their edges; sprinkle with 
powdered sugar ; bake half an hour in a hot oven ; coat the top 
with a little apricot marmalade moistened with a little water; 
and serve up. This pie is much more delicate than all the 
other apple pies. Family Apple Pie. — Make a third more 
of paste; roll it out as thin as a cent, place it on a pie plate 
without border, or with borders only slightly marked; line it 
with a layer of sauce as thick as your finger, but not reaching 
to the edges ; collect the rest of the paste, knead it anew, and 
roll it out as thin as a cent; cut it into little strips as wide 
as your little finger, and one band as wide as two fingers. 
Arrange the little strips in triangles over the top of the sauce, 
and place the wide strip all around the border; here and 
there press with a fork, to stick the edges together. Bake in 
an oven that is not too hot for half an hour or three quarters. 
(Fr.) 

Apple and Other Pies. — Take fine, juicy, acid apples; 
pare, core and cut them in small pieces. Fill with the apples 
a deep dish that has been lined with paste; strewing among 
them layers of sugar, and adding the rind of a lemon pared 
thin, and also the juice of the lemon squeezed in, or some 



380 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

essence of lemon. Put over the fruit another sheet of paste, 
as a lid; close the edges well, and notch them. Bake the pie 
in a moderate oven, about three quarters of an hour. The 
pie may be eaten with cream and sugar, or with cold boiled 
custard. If the pie is made of early green apples, they 
should first be stewed with a very little water and plenty of 
sugar. What are called sweet apples are entirely unfit for 
cooking, as they become tough and tasteless ; and it is almost 
impossible to cook them enough. When you put stewed apples 
into already baked shells, grate nutmeg over the top. You 
may cover them with cream whipped to a stiff froth, and 
heaped on them. — Cranberries and gooseberries should be 
stewed with sugar before they are put into paste. Peaches 
should be cut in half or quartered, and the stones taken out. 
Cherries and plums should also be stoned. Raspberries or 
strawberries, mixed with cream and sugar, may be put raw 
into baked shells. (Fr.) 

Norman Preserve of Apples in cider syrup, is made in 
the same way as for pears (p. 369). 

Apple Jelly. — Commonly, white pippins are used; but 
all apples are equally good to make jelly, except mealy ones. 
Peel them, cut them in quarters; remove the core; throw 
them one by one into cold water, lest they turn dark; put into 
an untinned copper or brass pan over the fire with enough 
water to cover them ; when they are soft under the finger, take 
them out, and let them drpin in a sieve over an earthen pan; 
weigh the juice, and add to it three quarters of a pound of 
sugar for each pound of juice; boil twelve or fifteen minutes; 
skim carefully; put a little on a plate, to make sure the cook- 
ing is enough; put the jelly boiling hot into preserve jars, in 
which you have put a thin slice of lemon. — With the apples 
used to make jelly, you can make marmalade, or apple-char- 
lotte. (Fr.) 

Apple or Crabapple Jelly. — Wash, stem and wipe the 
apples, carefully cleaning the blossom end. Cut into quar- 
ters, and put into the preserving kettle. Barely cover with 
cold water (about four quarts of water to eight of apples), 
and cook gently, until the apples are soft and clear. Strain 
the juice (there should be but three quarts of it) ; and proceed 
as for currant jelly (p. 349). Apples vary in their percent- 
age of sugar and acid. A fine flavored acid apple should be 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 381 

used, if possible. Apple jelly may be made at any time of 
the year; but winter apples are the best, and should be taken 
at their prime, from the fall to December or January. In the 
spring, add the juice of one lemon to every pint of apple 
juice. (Parloa.) 

Boiled Cider. — In a } reserving kettle, boil down some 
perfectly fresh and sweet cider to one half its bulk, skimming 
often. Do not have the kettle more than two thirds full. Put 
into bottles or stone jugs. Such cider can be used at any time 
of the year to make cider apple sauce. (Parloa.) 

Cider Apple Sauce. — Cover eight quarts of pared, quar- 
tered and cored sweet apples with five quarts of boiled cider 
in a large preserving kettle. Cook slowly, until the apples 
are clear and tender. To prevent burning, put the kettle on 
an iron tripod, or ring. The cooking will take from two to 
three hours. If you need to stir the sauce, break the apples 
as little as possible. When it is cooked, put it into sterilized 
jars. In the late spring when cooking apples have lost much 
of their flavor and acidity, an appetizing sauce may be made 
by stewing them with diluted boiled cider, using one cupful 
of cider to three of water. (Parloa.) 

Cider Apple Jelly. — Make in the same way as plain 
apple jelly; but in covering the apples, use cider fresh from 
the press, instead of water. (Parloa.) 

Cider Pear Sauce. — Cooking pears may be preserved in 
boiled cider, the same as sweet apples. If you like sweeter 
sauce, add a pint of sugar to each quart of boiled cider. 
(Parloa.) 

Lenten Mince Pie. — Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and 
chop the yolks very fine. Chop also a dozen pippins and two 
pounds of sultana raisins. Add two pounds of dried cur- 
rants, a pound of sugar, a tablespoonful of powdered cinna- 
mon, a teaspoonful of beaten mace, three powdered nutmegs, 
the juice and grated peel of three large lemons and half a 
pound of citron cut in large strips. Mix these ingredients 
thoroughly, and moisten the whole with a pint of rosewater 
and half a pint of brandy. Bake it in very nice paste. (Les- 
lie.) 

Mock Mince Pie. — 6 soda crackers, rolled fine; 2 cupfuls 
of cold water; 1 cupful of molasses; 1 cupful of brown sugar; 



382 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

1 cupful of sour cider; 1^ cupfuls of melted butter; 1 cup- 
ful of raisins stoned and chopped ; 1 cupful of dried currants 
(as they are always dirty, wash and rub them in warm water, 
drain them, and wash in three more, but cold, waters) ; 2 eggs, 
beaten light ; 1 teaspoonful of nutmeg ; 1 teaspoonful of cloves ; 
1 teaspoonful of black pepper; 1 teaspoonful of salt; 1 wine- 
glassful of brandy. (Harland.) 

WILD FRUITS FOR JELLIES. 

Wild raspberries, blackberries, barberries, grapes, and 
beach-plums all make delicious jellies. Failure with barber- 
ries comes from their being overripe, or not fresh. (Parloa.) 

DATE. 

The date is a staple article of food in Arabia and northern 
Africa, and, therefore, apparently (contrary to Atwater's 
analysis in our food table) must have a considerable propor- 
tion of protein (disregarding the water). Indeed the Ency- 
clopaedia Britannica, 9th edition, says : " The dried fruit used 
for dessert in European countries contains more than half its 
weight of sugar, about 6 per cent, of albumen, and 2 per cent, 
of gummy matter." The amount of protein seems therefore, 
to be at least about 8 per cent, of the whole pulp (leaving the 
water out of account). 

PERSIMMON, OR DATE PLUM. 

The Japanese persimmon is of at least three kinds; the 
wild persimmon, like the American, small and too astringent 
to be eatable, until after being frost bitten; and two large 
kinds of persimmon up to about two inches and a half in di- 
ameter, one somewhat astringent, and the other naturally 
sweet. Both these kinds are sometimes grown without seeds. 
The sweeter kind (amagaki) is comparatively dry, and is 
eaten in its natural condition — after peeling of course. The 
large astringent kind (shibupaki) is juicy, and is sometimes 
peeled, and dried in the sun, thereby losing its astringency, 
and somewhat resembling dried figs. Sometimes, however, it 
is, without peeling, placed, one not touching another, in a dry 
room, and, in a month or so, loses its astringency (the astring- 
ent tannin probably becoming changed to glucose), and then 
it can be eaten like the sweeter kind. The small wild per- 



FRUIT, BERRIES, MELONS. 388 

simmon can also be sweetened in the same ways. An emp- 
tied rice-beer (sake) cask is sometimes filled with the large 
astringent, unpeeled persimmons, never the sweeter ones, and 
then tightly closed and after a week, or two or three weeks, 
the persimmons become sweet enough to eat, and can be kept 
a month or two, say, until about New Year's. Or a cask that 
has not been used for sake can be so filled, and a little sake 
sprinkled upon the persimmons. The persimmons so pre- 
served with the trace of sake are called cask-persimmons 
(tarugaki). The Japanese persimmon, perhaps the sweeter 
kind, has been introduced into the warmer part of the United 
States. (G. Yamanobe, private communication.) 

OLIVE. 

There are numerous varieties of the olive tree, and some 
are especially cultivated for their superior fruit, which, in 
different kinds, varies in size from an acorn to a large plum. 
It is too bitter to be eaten, unless pickled. It is gathered 
when of full size, but still green; and is soaked for a few 
hours in a strong lye of wood-ashes, or a solution of potash. 
When the potash has penetrated to the stone, causing a change 
of color, the olives are put into water, which is renewed sev- 
eral times a day for five days. A saturated brine made of 
the purest salt, and sometimes flavored with coriander, cloves, 
cinnamon or other spices, is boiled a few minutes and strained ; 
and, after becoming cold, is mixed with an equal quantity of 
water, and poured over the olives placed in jars or bottles, 
which are then sealed. They are more a condiment than an 
article of nourishment; and are eaten to enhance the flavor 
of wine, and renew the sensitiveness of the palate for other 
viands. ("American Cyclopaedia" and "Encyclopaedia Bri- 
tannica.") 



384 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 

VEGETABLE-GELATINE. 

Carrageen (or carragheen), sometimes called Irish moss, 
a seaweed with which jellies are made, and perhaps identical 
with the seaweed from which the Japanese manufacture their 
excellent vegetable-gelatine called kanten, is a far more appe- 
tizing source of gelatine than the putrid hides and hoofs from 
which is made the gelatine nowadays more commonly used, 
and said to be often not fully sterilized of numerous harmful 
germs derived from its thoroughly disgusting source. An 
American lady in Japan, expert in jellies, though unbiassed 
by such knowledge of the common gelatine, declared that it 
was less satisfactory for jelly making than the Japanese 
kanten. 

Carrageen Blanc-mange. — Carrageen costs but little, 
and is considered extremely salutary for anybody in delicate 
health. Its glutinous nature, when boiled, makes it suitable 
for blanc-mange. To half a pint of rich, unskimmed milk 
(or terralac) add two ounces of blanched and pounded bitter 
almonds, half a nutmeg, a large stick of cinnamon broken up, 
and eight or nine blades of mace. Boil it half an hour in a 
closed pan over hot coals. Meanwhile, wash through two or 
three cold waters half a handful of carrageen (too much would 
give an unpleasant taste) ; drain it well, and shake the water 
from the sprigs ; and put it into a pint and a half of rich un- 
skimmed cold milk (or terralac). Then stir in the boiled 
milk, adding gradually half a pound of powdered sugar, and 
mix the whole very well. Set it over the fire, and keep it 
boiling hard five minutes from the time it begins to boil. Then 
strain it into a pitcher; flavor it, if you like, with rosewater, 
or peach water, stirred in at the last; wet your moulds or 
cups with cold water, pour the blanc-mange into them, and 
leave it undisturbed to congeal. (Leslie.) 

Gelatine-Jellies are, if not the most delicate in taste, 
the most charming in effect of any side-dishes ; especially the 
moulded jellies, though these leave something to desire, on ac- 
count of the quantity of gelatine necessary to keep their form. 
When the jellies are put into cups, or little jars, there is less 
need of giving great consistency, and the flavor can therefore 
be much stronger. In warm weather, a little more gelatine is 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 385 

needed. The jellies are neither long in making, nor difficult. 
The base is a mixture of sugar, water and gelatine. The 
sugar and gelatine should be of the best quality. The gela- 
tine should have neither taste nor odor, and should be as trans- 
parent as the clearest glass ; and limpid transparency should 
be attained by straining with a filter, a flannel bag, and the 
white of eggs. — To make the jellies set, it is only necessary 
to put them in a very cool place for three or four hours. If 
there are at hand no special jelly-cups, or little jars, wine- 
glasses can be used. It is important for perfect transparency 
and fine color, especially in the case of fruit- juice, not to use 
a wrought iron, or tinned vessel, nor a spoon of iron or tin. 
(Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Strawberries is made in the same 
way as the jelly with currants, or with orange (see below) ; 
only, instead of other fruit, you use a quarter-pound of thor- 
oughly ripe strawberries and an eighth of a pound of currants, 
or, in the lack of currants, the juice of a lemon; the juice of 
the strawberries and currants should amount to about a cup- 
ful. Into the jelly, when it begins to set, you can put some 
small strawberries, and stir a little, to scatter them. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Currants is made in the same way 
as the jelly with orange (see below) ; only, instead of oranges 
and a lemon, you use a quarter-pound of currants, preferably 
red ones, to have a fine bright-rose colored jelly; there should 
be about a cupful of juice; filter with a flannel bag. To make 
the dish perfect, put into each cup some stemmed currants. 
Put them in when the jelly begins to set, stir a little, to scat- 
ter them, and let the jelly set. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Currants and Raspberries is 
made in the same way as the jelly with currants (see above) 
or with oranges (see below) ; only, instead of other fruit, you 
use one half currants and one half raspberries. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Lemon is made in the same way as 
the jelly with orange (see below); only, instead of four 
oranges and one lemon, you use four lemons and one orange, 
and you rub the lump of sugar on the lemon peel instead of 
on the orange. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Orange. — For twelve or fifteen 
cups: Put into an untinned copper or brass sauce-pan half 



386 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

an ounce of gelatine, ten ounces of sugar, three cups of cold 
water and two whites of eggs beaten to froth, to clarify; stir, 
and beat, over a gentle fire, until the sugar and gelatine are 
melted ; at the first bubbling, take it away ; and strain through 
a flannel bag, without pressure ; until the liquid comes out alto- 
gether clear. Squeeze out the juice of four oranges and one 
lemon; in it melt a lump of sugar that has been rubbed upon 
the peel of the oranges ; there should be about a cupful of the 
orange and lemon juice; if you have less, fill up with a little 
water; filter. Mix together your first preparation and the 
orange and lemon juice. Put into glass cups, or wine glasses; 
let the jelly set in a very cool place. — This dish can be made 
perfect by adding a neatly prepared subdivision of an orange 
in each cup. First, half fill the cup with jelly; let it set; 
then, place the orange subdivision in it, and fill up the cup 
with jelly and let it set. — If you wish to let the jelly set in 
a mould, you must use two thirds more gelatine and one third 
more sugar. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Punch is made in the same way as 
the jelly with orange (see above); only, instead of the ten 
ounces of sugar, you use eight (half a pound), and, instead of 
the fruit juice, you use a cupful of punch and the juice of one 
lemon. As in all the gelatine- jellies, if you use a mould, you 
must take two thirds more gelatine and one third more sugar. 
(Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Kirsch is made in the same way as 
the jelly with orange (see above) ; only, instead of the fruit- 
juice, you use a cupful of half and half kirsch and water. 
(Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with Rum is made in the same way as 
the jelly with kirsch; only you use rum, instead of kirsch. 
(Fr.) 

Ribbon Gelatine- Jelly is made in the same way as jelly 
with orange (see above) ; only, you use one third more sugar, 
and divide the gelatine and sugar syrup into halves, and into 
one half put half a cupful of strawberry, or raspberry, or cur- 
rant juice, and into the other, half a cupful of kirsch, or rum, 
or anisette ; and then put into a mould half of the red mixture, 
and let it set in a cool place ; then put in half of the white mix- 
ture ; let it set ; then put in the rest of the red ; and, after it has 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 



387 



set, the rest of the white. Let it fully set, and, at the moment 
of serving up, put the mould for half a minute into hot water, 
so that the jelly may be easily detached. — These jellies may 
be made of a great number of flavors and colors; only, take 
care to arrange them in the mould so that they shall contrast 
well with one another. (Fr.) 

Gelatine-Jelly with a Medley of Fruits. — Into a 
sauce-pan put an ounce of fine gelatine, a pound and a half 
of sugar, three cupfuls of water and two whites of eggs beaten 
to froth, to clarify ; stir, and beat, over a gentle fire, until the 
sugar and gelatine are melted; at the first bubble, take from 
the fire, and strain through the flannel bag without pressure, 
until the liquid is completely clear; flavor with a cupful of 
half and half water and rum, or kirsch, or other cordial, or 
with a cupful of currant juice. Put some of the mixture into 
a mould to the depth of a finger's breadth; let it set; then 
sprinkle it with some strawberries, grapes, currants, cherries, 
or any small fruits that you happen to have. Put in a fresh 
layer of your mixture, and let it set; then again sprinkle it 
with the berries or small fruits ; and so on, until the mould is 
full ; let it fully set ; at the moment of serving up, remove the 
mould, first dipping it for half a minute into hot water. — The 
fruits may be replaced by cooked fruit or fruit comfits, or 
pieces of the comfits. If the comfits are used, the syrup 
should be made with only a pound of sugar, and the jelly 
flavored with fruit juices, so as to be a little acid, which will 
contrast well with the sugar of the comfits, and will be more 
agreeable. The medley- fruit jelly can also be put into glass 
cups, or wine glasses; in that case, use only two thirds as 
much gelatine and four fifths as much sugar. (Fr.) 

EDIBLE OILS. 

Olive Oil (in America often simply called sweet oil). — 
The pulp of the fully ripe, and, in that stage, dark purple, 
fruit of the olive contains nearly 70 per cent, of oil. The 
finer kinds of oil are made from hand-gathered fruit that has 
just begun to ripen. It is spread under sheds and frequently 
turned, losing much of its contained moisture. But, for com- 
mon oil, the fruit is allowed to lie under the trees, sometimes 
all winter, until convenient to gather. It is crushed to pulp 
in a mill, put into coarse sacks, that are stacked one on 



388 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

another, and pressed. The oil of the first, comparatively 
gentle pressing is called virgin oil; a second quality is ob- 
tained by mixing the contents of the bags with boiling water, 
and pressing more strongly. If the fruit is left in heaps until 
it ferments, it yields more ml, but of very poor quality. The 
finest oil has a slightly greenish color, a faint but agreeable 
odor, and a bland taste, leaving a slight sense of acridity in 
the throat. Olive oil is sometimes adulterated with cheaper 
oil (say, peanut oil, cottonseed oil) ; and, if they are not of 
considerable amount, it is difficult to detect them ; but one test is 
their greater specific gravity. (" Encyclopaedia Britannica.") 
Italians say that when olive oil is heated for frying, its odor 
is agreeable; but that heated cottonseed oil smells bad. 
Olive oil is very nutritious, and, in Italy, southern France and 
other countries where it is produced, is much used as food, 
not only with bread, but in cooking, especially for frying; but 
in America is used chiefly in dressing salads. 

Sesame Oil, or (in India) Gingelly oil. — Sesame seeds 
yield from 50 to 56 per cent, of a clear, limpid, pale yellow, 
inodorous, bland and sweet oil, not liable to rancidity, one of 
the most highly esteemed of vegetable oils, and of much im- 
portance in the East Indies, China (and Japan) as a food 
substance. As a salad oil, the cold-pressed qualities are in 
every respect equal to the finest olive oil, its mild piquancy of 
taste causing it to be preferred by many. It is subject to 
much adulteration, especially with the cheaper peanut oil; 
and is used to adulterate olive oil. (" Encyclopaedia Britan- 
nica.") 

Peanut Oil. — The peanut, or groundnut, yields by cold 
expression, from 42 to 50 per cent, of oil, and, by heat, a 
larger quantity of inferior quality. The better quality is 
limpid, light yellowish, or straw color, with a faint smell and 
bland taste; and is an excellent substitute for olive oil (which 
it often adulterates), though slightly more prone to rancidity. 
(" Encyclopaedia Britannica.") 

Cottonseed Oil. — Beginning in 1852, the manufacture of 
cottonseed oil (sometimes called cottolene) has become very 
important. The Egyptian seed yields about 25 per cent, of 
oil, and the American abort 20 per cent. The dark brown 
crude oil is purified by coagulating the albuminous impurities 
with boiling water and steam, and, after their precipitation, 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. OOif 

briskly agitating the removed oil with a weak alkaline lye, 
that separates colored resinous matter and a little saponified 
oil, leaving on settling, the clear refined oil of a straw-yellow 
color, a faint earthy odor and a pleasant nut-like flavor. It 
is much used to adulterate more costly oils, especially olive 
oil, as well as to make soap, and to mix in lubricating oils. 
("Encyclopaedia Britannica.") Italians say that when heated 
in cooking it has, unlike olive oil, a disagreeable odor. Other- 
wise, it appears to be, when well refined, a satisfactory salad 
oil and cooking oil. 

Rapeseed Oil. — Rapeseed and colzaseed are produced by 
varieties of the same species as the common turnip and of the 
same genus as mustard, and yield from 30 to (colza) 45 per 
cent, of oil, which at first is of a dark sherry color with 
scarcely any smell, but, after resting a short time, deposits 
an abundant mucilaginous slime, and by taking up oxygen 
acquires a peculiar disagreeable odor and an acrid taste. But, 
by refinement, the oil assumes a clear golden yellow color, and, 
by mixture with starch, heating to carbonize the starch, and, 
after cooling, filtering, loses its biting taste; and is used in 
Germany for salad oil (Schmalzoel). The offensive taste 
may also be removed by treatment with a small proportion of 
sweet spirit of nitre (nitrous ether). Rapeseed oil is much 
used as food in the East Indies. (" Encyclopaedia Britan- 
nica.") It is used for frying in Japan; but in flavor is far 
inferior, there, to sesame oil. 

Mustardseed Oil is a bland, inodorous, yellow oil, free 
from pungency and with little tendency to become rancid. It 
is extensively used in India for cooking. (" Encyclopaedia 
Britannica.") 

Other Edible Vegetable Oils. — There are many other 
vegetable oils, of less importance, that are more or less used 
for food in different countries. Among them, there are: 
Almond oil from both the sweet and the bittei. almond, pale 
straw-colored, with a pleasant nutty taste, liable to rancidity; 
Brazil nut oil, becoming rapidly rancid; poppy oil (when cold 
pressed), nearly colorless, limpid, of pleasant taste and a 
faint characteristic odor, an esteemed salad oil; safflower oil, 
light-yellow, clear, limpid, used in cooking; sunflower oil, 
clear pale-yellow, limpid, with scarcely any smell, and a mild 
pleasant characteristic taste; tea-seed oil, yellow, destitute of 



390 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

taste and smell; walnut oil, fine, limpid, and, when cold- 
pressed, almost colorless, of sweet nutty taste and pleasant 
odor. Coconut oil is a white solid of peculiar, rather disa- 
greeable odor and mild taste; much used for making marine 
soap that lathers with seawater; Indian butter, obtained from 
the seeds of the Bassia butyracea, in northern India, is a fat 
of the consistency of lard, and of delicate white color, and 
pleasant odor and taste and not becoming rancid in many 
months; Palm oil and Palmnut oil, both solid fats of agree- 
able taste and the odor of violets or orris root are sometimes 
used as food, but, in Europe and America, chiefly for making 
soap and candles. (" Encyclopaedia Britannica.") 

SAGO. 

Sago is dry granulated starch, the prepared pith of sev- 
eral different East Indian palms and a cycad. 

Sago Soup. — For six persons: three pints of broth, four 
spoonfuls of sago. The soup is made in the same way as 
cracked wheat soup (p. 273) ; but is simmered longer, at least 
thirty minutes. (Fr.) 

Sago Pudding. — In a quart of milk (or terralac) boil, till 
quite soft, six tablespoonfuls of sago that has been picked 
clean and soaked for two hours in cold water; stir alternately 
into the milk a quarter-pound of butter and six ounces of 
powdered sugar; and set it away to cool. Then gradually 
stir into it eight eggs that have been beaten quite light; add 
a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of 
powdered mace, a beaten nutmeg and, lastly, half a pound of 
dried currants that have been picked over, washed and dried, 
dredging them with flour, to prevent their sinking. Stir the 
whole very hard, put it into a buttered dish, and bake it 
three quarters of an hour. Eat it cold. (Leslie.) 

Another Sago Pudding. — Cleanse half a pound of sago 
in boiling water, boil it over steam in a quart of milk (or ter- 
ralac), until it is dissolved, stirring often. When it is soft, 
take it from the fire, and stir into it two ounces of butter, four 
large tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a wineglass (half a 
gill) of wine, and, when it is cold, four beaten eggs. Grate 
a little nutmeg in, and add salt. Bake immediately, and serve 
it up cold or hot. (Haskell.) 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 391 

Sago and Apple Pudding. — Four large apples; five 
ounces of sago, sugar and lemon-flavor. Prepare the apples 
as for apple sauce; boil the sago in a small quantity of water; 
add the apples, sugar and flavor, and bake in a pie dish. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Moulded Sago. — Five tablespoonfuls of sago; a quarter 
of a pound of sugar; and eight drops of the essence of lemon. 
Steep the sago a quarter of an hour in a cupful of cold water; 
pour on it three cupfuls of boiling water, and boil the whole 
in an earthen vessel in the oven, about an hour, occasionally 
stirring it; pour into moulds, and let it stay till cold; then 
turn it out, and serve it up with stewed or preserved fruit. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Moulded Sago with Fruit. — Four ounces of sago; half 
a pint of raspberry and red currant juice (strained), and six 
ounces of sugar. Wash the sago and steep it one hour in cold 
water; strain off the water, add the juice, and boil gently a 
short time, stirring it occasionally, and adding the sugar; 
when it is clear, pour it into a mould, let it stand twelve 
hours, and turn it on a flat dish. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

TAPIOCA. 

Tapioca is a coarsely granular substance, the heated, and, 
so partly changed (to dextrine) moistened starch obtained 
from the manioc, a Brazilian plant. Cassava, or manioc, 
mandioc, or manihot, is a more granular, less purified form. 

Tapioca Soup. — For six persons; three pints of broth, 
four tablespoonfuls of tapioca. The soup is made in the same 
way as cracked wheat soup (p. 273), but is simmered only 
about ten minutes. To be delicate, it should not be too thick, 
more like unctuous broth than like glue. (Fr.) 

Tapioca Pudding. — Soak in one quart of night's milk (or 
terralac) four heaping tablespoonfuls of tapioca ; in the morn- 
ing boil it over steam until quite thick, stirring it from the bot- 
tom several times ; add some fresh butter as large as an egg (or 
four spoonfuls of oil), a quarter-pound of sugar, four well 
beaten eggs, and, lastly, a gill of sweet thin cream from the 
morning's milk (or a palatable oil) ; flavor with nutmeg, or, 
if you prefer, bitter almond; add a little salt, unless the but- 
ter has brought salt enough. Bake half an hour. Serve up 



392 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

with butter and sugar worked to a cream and thinned with a 
gill of hot wine. (Haskell.) 

Apple Tapioca Pudding. — Put half a tablespoonful of 
tapioca that has been soaking all night in water into a sauce- 
pan; add half a teaspoonful of sugar and a little nutmeg, or 
cinnamon. Simmer ten minutes, then add eight pared, cored 
and quartered apples, and simmer ten minutes more. When 
cold the tapioca will form a jelly around the apples. (Harts- 
horne.) 

ARROWROOT. 

Arrowroot is a starch obtained from the roots of a plant. 
Bermuda arrowroot is the best. (Hartshorne.) 

Thickening with Arrowroot. — Moisten a little arrow- 
root in a plate with one or two spoonfuls of cold water. Mix 
it, little by little, with the sauce to be thickened ; take from the 
fire at the first boil, for, otherwise, the sauce will become thin 
again. A teaspoonful of arrowroot is ample to thicken a pint 
of sauce ; but the exact quantity depends on the greater or less 
consistency of the sauce. Thickening with arrowroot can, 
even advantageously, replace thickening with flour. (Fr.) 

Arrowroot Gruel. — Make a spoonful of arrowroot into 
a paste with cold milk (or terralac) ; stir it into a pint of 
boiling morning's milk (or terralac) ; boil five minutes, stir- 
ring constantly; season with salt. (Haskell.) 

Arrowroot Jelly. — Mix three tablespoonfuls of arrow- 
root powder in a teacupful of water till it becomes quite 
smooth; cover it, and let it stand a quarter of an hour. Put 
the yellow part of the peel of a lemon into a sauce-pan with a 
pint of water, and let it boil till reduced one half. Then take 
out the lemon peel, and pour in the dissolved arrowroot, while 
the water is still boiling; add white sugar enough to sweeten 
it well, and let it boil together for five or six minutes. Season, 
if you like, with two teaspoonfuls of wine and some grated 
nutmeg. It may be boiled in milk (or terralac) instead of 
water, or in wine and water, according to taste. (Leslie.) 

Moulded Arrowroot. — Six ounces of arrowroot, six 
ounces of sugar, the rind of a lemon, ten drops of almond 
flavor, and one quart of water. Mix the arrowroot, till quite 
smooth, with a little of the cold water; set the rest of the 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 393 

water on the fire with the rind of a lemon pared thin; when it 
boils add the sugar, and let it simmer about five minutes ; then 
take out the lemon-peel, and put in the arrowroot, stirring con- 
stantly, till it has boiled three minutes ; add the almond-flavor, 
and pour it into a mould previously dipped in cold water. 
(" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Arrowroot Blanc-Mange. — Dissolve a teacupful of ar- 
rowroot in a little cold water in a large bowl. When it is 
melted, pour off the water, and leave the arrowroot undis- 
turbed. In a cupful (half a pint) of unskimmed milk (or ter- 
ralac), very sweet with white sugar, boil a beaten nutmeg and 
eight or nine blades of mace, mixed with the juice and grated 
peel of a lemon. When it is highly flavored with long boil- 
ing, strain it into a pint and a half of very rich milk (or ter- 
ralac), or cream (or terralac cream), and add a quarter-pound 
of sugar. Boil the whole for ten minutes, and strain it boiling 
hot, over the arrowroot. Stir it well and frequently, until 
cold, then put it into moulds, and let it stiffen. (Leslie.) 

Arrowroot Pudding. — Dissolve four teacupfuls of arrow- 
root in a pint of cold milk (or terralac). Boil another pint of 
milk (or terralac) with some broken cinnamon and a few bitter 
almonds, or peach leaves ; strain the hot milk over the dis- 
solved arrowroot; stir it to a thick, smooth batter, and set it 
away to cool. Into the cold batter, stir six eggs beaten very 
light, alternately with a quarter-pound of powdered white 
sugar. Add a grated nutmeg and some fresh grated lemon- 
peel. Put the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake it an 
hour. When it is cold, tastefully arrange some slices of pre- 
served quince or peach, all over the top of the pudding, or 
ornament it with strawberries, or raspberries, preserved whole. 
(Leslie.) 

Arrowroot Puffs. — For ten or twelve persons: Boil a 
quart of milk (or terralac) with half a vanilla-pod, or with 
some orangeflower water, or some burnt orangeflower, or some 
finely chopped lemon-zest ; sweeten with half a pound of sugar, 
cool down, mix little by little with two good tablespoonfuls of 
arrowroot, season with a little fine salt, and put on the fire; 
stir on the fire two or three minutes, until the porridge becomes 
quite thick; take it from the fire, and let it cool. This por- 
ridge can be made beforehand. At the time of using it, mix 
with it, while cold, six egg-yolks; add the whites beaten to 



394 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

froth ; mix the whole together quickly, lest the whites subside. 
Pour into a mould, or a dish at least about two inches and a 
half deep, and not to be more than three quarters full ; quickly 
put it into a very hot oven, or put it into an already heated 
Dutch oven over hot ashes and well supplied with live coals. 
Cook fifteen or twenty minutes; when it is well risen and of 
a fine color, sprinkle with sugar, and serve up at once. The 
porridge may be made with a little less arrowroot, and some 
crushed macaroons instead. The flavorings mentioned may all 
be omitted, and, before putting in the eggs, two or three spoon- 
fuls of spiced marmalade may be added. (Fr.) 

SUGAR. 

Cane sugar is more compact and sweeter than beet sugar. 
Sugar is merely a carbohydrate, with no protein nor fat, and 
serves to counterbalance an excess of protein and fat in other 
components of a dish or diet. Fermented by yeast, it turns to 
alcohol, and by a second fermentation, to vinegar. 

Good sugar is hard, brilliant, of a fine white color, and com- 
paratively light, without odor, and tastes agreeably, and in dis- 
solving in water does not cloud it too much. Avoid sugar that 
too readily falls to powder, or is oily, or of a yellow color and 
disagreeable to taste. Cane sugar is apt to be less porous than 
beet sugar, and therefore is more effective in sweetening. Pul- 
verized sugar is said to sweeten less effectively than lump 
sugar or granulated sugar. (Fr.) 

Cooking Sugar. — The more water is put in the longer it 
takes to cook the sugar. The best proportion is half a pint 
of water to a pound of sugar. Preferably use an untinned 
copper pan or kettle. Set it over a lively fire. (Fr.) The 
degree of cooking is distinguished by the signs of conc3ntration 
of the sugar, as tested with the finger or skimmer; but a more 
convenient and more precise method of determining the con- 
centration is with the syrup-gauge. 

Clarified Syrup. — Put four pounds of broken loaf sugar 
into a clean block-tin pai, or a pan lined with earthen ware, 
or porcelain, with a quart of spring water; stir till the sugar 
is dissolved; set it over a moderate fire, adding the beaten 
white of an egg, before the sugar and water have become warm ; 
when it boils take off the scum, and keep it boiling till per- 
fectly clear; then strain through muslin, and when it is cold, 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 



395 



put it in bottles. If well corked, it will keep several months. 
Fruit syrups are better when prepared with this clarified 
syrup, than when made with sugar only. It is also conveni- 
ent to be used for sweetening at the table. (" Vegetarian 
Cookery.") 

Caramel. — The best and also the most convenient coloring 
for culinary preparations is caramel. It is easy to make it 
yourself, and you have it better. Put into a saucepan over a 
quick fire half a pound of sugar, in small lumps or granulated, 
and a quarter of a cupful of water. Stir from time to time 
with a rod, or spoon of iron, to make it turn equally to cara- 
mel, until it is of a very dark chestnut color, almost black. 
Then, add to it little by little a cupful (half a pint) of water. 
Boil, detaching the caramel that sticks to the sauce-pan, and 
stirring until the water and the caramel are well combined. 
Cool and put into a jar or bottle, ready for use. If put in a 
dry cool place, it can be kept several months. When it is well 
made and cooled, it has the consistency of good molasses, but 
it should be of a still darker color. (Fr.) 

Browning. — Put two ounces of powdered white sugar into 
a sauce-pan, over a slow fire ; when it begins to melt, stir it with 
a wooden spoon till it is getting black; set it in a rather cool 
oven upon a trevet for about twenty minutes; pour a pint of 
cold water upon it, and let it dissolve. Keep in small bottles 
in a cool, but dry place to use as required. It will not keep 
more than a few weeks. (" Vegetarian Cookery.") 

Cold Sweet Sauce. — Stir together, as for a pound cake, 
equal quantities of fresh butter (or oil) and white powdered 
sugar. When it is quite light and creamy, add some powdered 
cinnamon or nutmeg and a few drops of essence of lemon. To 
be eaten with either baked or boiled batter pudding, bread 
pudding, Indian pudding, and the like. Also with apple 
pudding, or dumplings, and with fritters and pancakes. (Les- 
lie.) 

Plain Sweet Sauce. — A cupful of boiling water, half a 
cupful of butter, a cupful of sugar, an even teaspoonful of 
flour stirred in a little water and freed from lumps; beat the 
mixture while it is heating, until it boils; add nutmeg. 
(Haskell.) 



396 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

Plain Sour Sauce is made in the same way as the plain 
sweet sauce, only use vinegar instead of water; and, if the 
sauce is not sweet enough, add sugar. (Haskell.) 

Orange Sauce. — Half a cupful of butter, one of sugar; 
beat light, and add a cupful of fresh orange juice. (Haskell.) 

Wine Sauce. — Beat together two cupfuls of sugar and half 
a cupful of butter; add a cupful of wine slowly to the sugar 
and butter ; beat it well and melt it over steam, but do not stir 
it while it is melting. Brandy sauce can be made in the same 
way. (Haskell.) 

Spruce Beer. — In a large kettle, boil ten gallons of water, 
a quarter-pound of hops and a teacup of ginger, until the hops 
sink to the bottom. Dip out a bucketful of the liquid, and 
stir into it six quarts of molasses and three ounces and a half 
of the essence of spruce (or, instead of the essence, two pounds 
of the outer sprigs of spruce fir may be put into the liquid ten 
minutes before the end of the boiling). When all is dissolved, 
mix it with the liquor in the kettle; strain it through a hair 
sieve into a cask; and stir into it half a pint of good strong 
yeast. Let it ferment a day or two; then bung up the cask, 
and you may bottle the beer next day. It will be fit for use 
in a week. — For a small quantity, boil a handful of hops in ten 
quarts of water, until they fall to the bottom. Strain the 
water, and when it is lukewarm, stir into it a tablespoonful of 
ground white ginger, a pint of molasses, a tablespoonful of es- 
sence of spruce, and half a pint of yeast. Mix the whole well 
together in a stone jug, and let it ferment a day and a half or 
two days. Then bottle it, with three or fcur raisins in the 
bottom of each bottle, to prevent further fermentation. It will 
then be fit for immediate use. (Leslie.) 

Ginger Beer. — Put a pound and a half of sugar, three 
ounces of strong white ginger, and the grated peel of two 
lemons into a large stone jar; pour over them two gallons of 
boiling water. When it becomes milkwarm, strain it, and add 
the juice of the lemons and two large tablespoonfuls of strong 
yeast. Make the beer in the evening, and. let it stand all 
night. Next morning bottle it in half pint stone bottles, tying 
down the corks with twine. (Leslie.) 

Currant Wine. — Strip four gallons of ripe currants from 
the stalks into a great stone jar that has a cover, and mash 



VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 



397 



them with a long thick stick. Let them stand 24 hours ; then 
put the currants into a linen bag; wash out the jar, set it under 
the bag, and squeeze the juice into it. Boil five pounds and a 
half of sugar in two gallons and a half of water, skimming it 
well. When the scum ceases to rise, mix the syrup with the 
currant juice. Let it stand a fortnight or three weeks, to 
settle; then transfer it to another vessel, taking care not to 
disturb the lees or dregs. If it is not quite clear and bright, 
refine it by mixing with a quart of the wine (taken out for the 
purpose), the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and 
half an ounce of cream of tartar, and pouring the mixture 
gradually into the vessel. Let it stand ten days, and then 
bottle it off, and lay the bottles on their sides. The wine will 
be fit to drink in a year, but better when three or four years 
old. You may add a little brandy to it when you make it; 
allowing a quart of brandy to 24 quarts of wine. (Leslie.) 

Elderberry Wine. — Put quite ripe elderberries into a 
stone jar, mash them with a round stick, and set them in a 
warm oven, or in a large kettle of boiling water, till the berries 
begin to simmer. Then take them out, and press and strain 
them through a sieve. To every quart of the juice, allow a 
pound of sugar and two quarts of cold soft water. Put the 
sugar into a large kettle, pour the juice over it, and, when it 
has dissolved, stir the water in. Set the kettle over the fire, 
and boil, and skim it, until no more scum rises. To sixteen 
quarts of the liquid add a pint and a half of brandy. Put it 
into a keg, and let it stand with the bung put in loosely for 
four or five days, by which time it will have ceased to ferment, 
then stop it closely, plastering the bung with clay. At the 
end of six months, draw off a little of it; if it be not quite 
clear and bright, refine it with the whites and shells of three 
or four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and stirred into a quart of 
the wine, taken out for the purpose, and then returned to the 
cask; or you may refine it with an ounce or more of dissolved 
isinglass. Let it stand a week or two, and then bottle it. 
(Leslie.) 

Mead. — To every gallon of water put five pounds of 
strained honey (the water must be hot when you add the 
honey), and boil it three quarters of an hour, skimming it well. 
Then put in some hops tied in a thin bag (an ounce, or a hand- 
ful to each gallon), and let it boil half an hour longer. Strain 



398 VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 

it into a tub, and let it stand four days. Then put it into a 
cask (or into a demijohn, if the quantity be small), adding for 
each gallon of mead a gill of brandy and a sliced lemon. If 
the cask be large, do not bottle mead until it has stood a year. 
(Leslie.) 

Rum Sherbet. — For ten or twelve persons: Put into a 
sauce-pan a pound of sugar and a cupful of water; boil, and 
skim well; when the skimming is complete, take from the fire, 
add another cupful of water and the juice of three lemons, 
pour into the freezer, filling it only two thirds full; and 
freeze it in the way already indicated (p. 340). At the 
moment of serving up add half a cupful of rum; stir well to- 
gether, and serve up in wine glasses. (Fr.) 

Kirsch Sherbet is made, and served up, in the same way 
as rum sherbet; only, the lemon juice is omitted, and, instead 
of rum, you add half a cupful of kirsch. (Fr.) 

Roman Punch is made, and served up, in the same way as 
rum sherbet; only, at the time of adding the juice of three 
lemons, you add a cupful of good Chablis wine, instead of 
water; and at the time of serving up, you add half a cupful 
of rum and three whites of eggs beaten to froth. (Fr.) 



MINERAL. 



SALT. 



Brine. — Fill with water a sauce-pan, or pot (not of copper, 
for fear of verdigris). Set it on the fire, and when the water 
boils, put in some salt, little by little, and let it dissolve. To 
know when the brine is saturated enough, put an egg into the 
boiling water; and when, with the addition of the salt, the egg 
rises, and floats, the water will be salt enough. Take the 
brine from the fire, and let it cool; but do not put into the 
salting tub until completely cold ; otherwise it would produce 
a bad effect. (Fr.) 



To write out these thousand and one receipts has fre- 
quently made the mouth water. May their practical use prove 
even more enjoyable. 



INDEX 



Aburage, 156 

Advantages of vegetarianism, i>3 

Adjustment guides for food, 43 

Affection, 70 

Ainos' alcoholic craving, 52 

Alcoholic cravings eradicated, 5!) 

craving of meat- eaters, 51 
Alligator pear, 367 
Almond, 263 

burnt, 264 

cake, 283 

milk, 264 

oil, 389 

replacing, 264 

salted, 263 
American fat in diet, 40 

savages' alcoholic craving, 52 

sects, 70 
Angelica, 208 

comfits, 208 
Animal foods, 81, 92 
Apple, 373 

and bread, pudding, 375 

and bread pudding, boiled, 376 

blazing, 374 

buttered, 374 

charlotte, 373 

charlotte, merang fashion, 374 

charlotte, mounted, 373 

cider jelly, 381 

cider sauce, 381 

Conde fashion, 374 

croquettes, 378 

dumpling, 376, 377 

dumpling, French, 376, 378 

fritters, 378 

fritters, French, 378 

jelly, 380 

marmalade, 373 

Norman preserve, 369, 380 

pie, 379 

pie, English, 379 

pie, family, 379 

tapioca pudding, 392 

sauce, 373 

stewed, 373 
Apricot, 360 

brandied, 362 

canning, 361 

comfits, 362 

Cond§ fashion, 361 



crusts, 361 

fritters, 361 

marmalade, 360 

pie, 361 

preserve, 361 

pudding, 361 

stewed, 360 
Arrowroot, 392 

blanc-mange, 393 

gruel, 392 

jelly, 392 

moulded, 392 

pudding, 393 

puffs, 393 
Artichoke, 216 

brown-butter sauce, 217 

fried, 21S 

keeping, 218 

pepper sauce, 218 

preparing, 217 

white sauce, 217 
Ash, 35 
Asparagus, 143 

bean, 172 

boiled bits, 143 

like green peas, 143 

on toast, 143 

white sauce, 143 

with oil, 143 
Avocado, 367 

Baba, 298 

Baked crackers and cheese, No. 1, 
133 

crackers and cheese, No. 2, 134 

lentils, 163 
Bamboo shoots, 145 
Banana, 209 
Barberry, 356 

jelly, 356 
Barley, 270 

and pea soup, 271 

broth, 270 

griddle cakes, 270 

gruel, 270 

soup, 271 

water, 270 
Bavarian cheese, 110 
Beans and peas canned, 154 

salted, 153 
Beaten biscuit, 278 



402 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Beer, ginger, 396 

spruce, 396 
Beets, 230 

baked, 231 

boiled, 231 

country fashion, 232 

for salad, 231 

fried, 231 

greens, 189 

with butter, 231 
Berries, 88 

Bird's nest pudding, 375 
Black bean, 175 
Blackberry, 347 

jelly, 347 

juice, canning or bottling, 347 

stewing and canning, 347 
Blanc-mange, 109 
Blueberries, 371 

stewing and canning, 371 
Borecole, 195 
Boston brown bread, 325 

roast, 134 
Bouquet garni, 206 
Brake shoots, 145 
Brazil nut oil, 389 
Bread, 278 

and milk, 287 

bits for soup, 286 

baker's, 279 

cooling, 282 

fancy, leavened, 286 

flour, 280 

home made, 279 

home made and baker's, 283 

Indian, 324 

keeping, 282 

kneading, 281 

leaven, 280 

little trays, 287 • 

raised, 27*9 

rising, 282 

rye and Indian, 325 

rye and Indian milk, 325 

salt, 281 

unleavened, 278 

water, 281 

wheat and Indian, 324 

wheat, rye and Indian, 325 

yeast, 280 
Breakfast food, home made, 288 
Brewis, 287 



Briers and hop shoots, 144 
Brine, 399 
Brinjal, 210 
Briosh, 297 
Broadbean, 158 

boiling, 158 

pullet fashion, 158 

soup, 154 
Brocoli, 200 

Browning (with sugar), 395 
Brown thickening, 117 
Brussels-sprouts, 196 

blanched, 196 

brown sauce, 197 

fried, 196 

landlord's fashion, 196 

pullet sauce, 197 

white sauce, 197 
Brussels vegetarians, 54 
Buckwheat, 337 

cakes, 337 

cakes, French, 337 

porridge, 337 

porridge fried, 338 
Buddhists, 69 
Buns, 291 

American, 292 

Bath, 292 

cross, 292 

plum, 292 

seed, 292 
Burnet, 205 

vinegar, 205 
Butchers, 68 
Butter, 114 

clarified, 115 

keeping, 114 

melting down, 114 

quality, 114 

salting, 114 

side dish, 115 

with vegetables, 115 
Buttermilk cheese, 126 

cream, 127 
Butternut catchup, 262 

Cabbage, 191 
boiled, 192 
creamed, 192 
pickled, red, 195 
salad, 194 
soup, 193 



403 



stuffed, 193 

white sauce, 192 

white, stuffed, 193 
Cake, 296 

almond, 301 

chocolate, 301 

coconut, 301 

cranberry, 301 

currant, 302 

English, 299 

four quarters, 300 

four quarters with almonds, 300 

fruit, 302 

fruit with nut meats, 302 

gold and silver, 302 

huckleberry, 302 

icing or frosting, 296 

jelly, 301 

mixing and baking, 296 

one, two, three, four, 300 

orange, 301 

peach, 301 

plain egg, raised, 301 

plain sponge, 302 

pound, 302 

quince, 301 

rich loaf, 300 

rich sponge, 303 

strawberry, 301 

yeast raised, plain loaf, 300 
Cakes, 291 

cream, Boston, 314 

cream griddle, 294 

Indian mush, 325 
Cantelope, 365 
Caramel, 395 
Carbohydrates, 35 
Cardoon, 188 

Carnivorous tooth argument, 59 
Carrageen, 384 

blanc-mange, 384 
Carrot, 247 

angel locks, 249 

boiled, 248 

coimtry fashion, 248 

pie, 249 

pullet sauce, 248 

soup, 249 

white sauce, 248 
Carthusians, 69 
Cauliflower, 197 

browned, 199 



creamed, 198 

fried, 199 

plain boiled, 197 

tomato sauce, 199 

trimmings, 200 

white sauce, 198 

with cheese, 199 

with cheese, simpler, 199 

with oil, 200 
Cayenne pepper, 219 

pepper pickled, 219 
Celeriac, 229 

cream soup, 229 

mash, 229 
Celery, 190 

brown butter sauce, 191 

browned, 191 

salad, 190 

side dish, 190 

vinegar, 191 
Cepes, 149, 150 
Cereals, 86, 268 
Chambers, 52 
Changes of diet, 58 
Changing diet not necessarily 

gradual, 58 
Chard (Swiss), 188 
Charlotte Russe, 111 
Chaucer, 68 
Cheese, 125 

and celery, 137 

and milk soup, 138 

and pimiento salad, 136 

and spinach roll, 135 

and tomato salad, 136 

and vegetable roll, 135 

and vegetable soup, 138 

as food, 127 

bill of fare, 128 

biscuit, 139 

brown betty, 140 

cake pie, 140 

Chantilly, 110 

cottage, 130 

French cottage, 131 

cream, 132 

dishes, flavoring of, 129 

gingerbread, 140 

grating, 129 

jelly salad, 137 

keeping, 129 

kinds, 125 



404 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



pastry, 138 
potted, 132 
olive and pimiento sandwiches 

or salad, 137 
on toast, 133 
relish, 139 
roast and nuts, 135 
roast and pimiento, 134 
rolls, 134 
salad, plain, 136 
salad and preserves, 137 
sandwiches, 138 
sandwiches, toasted, 138 
sauce, 132 

sauce with potatoes, 135 
sour cream, 131 
straws, 139 
substitute, 156 
sweets, 138 
turnovers, 133 
wafers, 139 
with cream, 131 
with fried bread, 135 
with mush, 135 
with salad, 136 
with scalloped cabbage or 

cauliflower, 136 
with scalloped potatoes, 135, 

136 
Chemical discrimination of the 

stomach, 34 
investigation of the body and 

diets, 34 
Chemically well-balanced diet and 



Chemical question: Can vege- 
tarian foods suffice? 34 
Chemistry better guide than 

cravings, 35 
Cherry, 354 

and currant juice, preserv- 
ing, 356 

brandied, 355 

canning, 355 

dried, 354 

juice, 355 

laurel cream, 108 

pie, 354 

preserve, 355 

preserving, 355 

pudding, 354 

stewed, 354 



stewing, canning, 354 
Chervil, 204 
Chestnuts, 266 

boiled, 266 

flour puff, 267 

glazed, 266 

mashed soup, 266 

roasted, 266 

stewed, 266 
Chickpea, 177 
Chicory, 187 

canning, 188 

cooked, 187 

salad, 187 
Chilli vinegar, 265 
China, 55 

Chinese diet in America, 40 
Chittenden, 56 
Chive, 236 
Chocolate, 265 

cream, 108 

with water or milk, 265 
Chutney, 261 
Cider, boiled, 381 

pear sauce, 381 
Citron, 363 
Clarified syrup, 394 
Coconut, 267 

custard pie, 267 

oil, 390 
Cold slaw, 194 
Collards, 200 
Combe, 56 

Combining materials, 76-77 
Composition of foods, 44 
Cooking methods, 75 

well, secret of, 76 
Components of man's body and 

foods, 33 
Constitutional differences of indi- 
viduals, 63 
Corn meal gruel, 323 

salad, 187 
Cornstarch baked pudding, 328 

boiled custard, 327 

blanc-mange, 328 

boiled pudding, 328 

ice cream, 328 

pudding, 328 
Cos-lettuce, 187 
Cottonseed oil, 388 
Counterbalancing foods, 51 



405 



Cowpea, 163 
Crabapple jelly, 380 
Cracked wheat pudding, 273 

wheat soup, 273 

wheat soup with milk, 273 
Cranberries, 370 

keeping, 370 

pie, 370 

sauce, 370 
Craving, if corrupt, a bad guide, 7S 
Cravings less sure guide than 
chemistry, 35 

special adjustment, 42 
Cream, 107 

caramel, 108 

coffee, 108 

flavors for ice, 113 

for filling, 314 

French vanilla ice, 112 

ice, 112 

ice, so called, 113 

pie, 110 

salad dressing, 106 

whipped, 110 

whipped, another, 111 
Cress, 181 
Cressy soup, 249 
Cruelitv, revolting, 70 
Crullers, 293, 294, 301 
Crumpets, 291 
Cuban sandwiches, 138 
Cucumbers, 224 

B§chamel sauce, 224 

cooking, 224 

French fried, 225 

French salad, 225 

fried, 224 

landlord fashion, 224 

pickled gherkins, 225, 226 

pie, 225 

preliminary cooking, 224 

pullet sauce, 224 

salad, 225 

stewed, 224 
Curds and cheese, 125 

and whey, 129 

uncooked, 131 
Currants, 347 

and raspberry jelly, 353 

and raspberry syrup, 352 

canning, 398 

jelly, 349 



jelly, French, 350 

juice, bottling, 348 

juice, canning, 348 

preserve, 348 

pudding, 348 

syrup, 348 

water ice, 347 

white, preserve, 348 

wine, 396 
Curry powder, 260 
Custard, baked, water, 101 

baked, milk, 101 

boiled, 101 

pie, 102 

snow ball, 101 
Cuvier, 60 

Dairy products, 104 

Dandelion, 189 

Dates, 382 

Date plum, 382 

Devonshire cream, 127 
cream again, 127 

Diet, diagram, 39 

difference mainly in quantity, 

39 
less essential than exercise, 54 
model, the mean of all diets, 41 
model, proportions, 41 
national differences, 39 
of mankind, 36 
proportions not widely differ- 
ent, 40 
table, 36 

Diseased flesh food, 57 

Disgusting flesh food, 57 

Dishes, 75 

Distaste in departure from aver- 
age diet, 57 

Dock, 189 

Dough cake, 300 

Doughnuts, 300, 303 

Dumpling cloths, 305 

Eat-all beans, 177 
Economical benefits, 64 
Edible oils, 387 
Eggs, 81, 92 

B6chamel sauce, 96 

black-butter, 95 

buttered, 92 

cold storage, 92 



406 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



degrees or freshness, 93 

fine herbs, 96 

for salad, 95 

fried, 95 

hard, 94 

heated, 94 

in limewater, 92 

in liquid glass, 92 

in the shell, 94 

keeping, 92 

light test, 93 

mirror, 96 

mirror with asparagus, 96 

nog, 94 

poached, 95 

raw, 94 

sauce, 103 

scrambled, 97 

scrambled with asparagus tips, 
97 

scrambled with cheese, 97 

scrambled with mushrooms, 97 

scrambled with truffles, 97 

soft, 94 

stuffed, 97 

tripe fashion, 96 

white sauce, 96 
Eggplant, 210 

baked, 210 

broiled, 211 

fried, 210 

on the gridiron, 211 

stewed, 211 

stuffed, 210 
Elderberry wine, 397 
Endive, 188 

English and American cooking, 78 
Excess of muscle-building ele- 
ment in meat, 33 
Experience of the writer, 63 
Extractives, 35 



Field pea, 168 
Fig, 367 

comfits, 367 
Filberts, 265 

milk, 265 
Fine herbs, 205 
Fisher, 54 
Flageolet, 176 
Flannel cakes, 293 



Flavorers in cooking, 207 
Flavoring vegetables, 206 

vegetables, frying, 207 
Flavor-posy, 206 
Flemish soup, 238 
Flour gruel, 274 
Flummery, 269 
Food classes compared, 49 
Food composition, 44 

composition, diagram of, 49 

composition, table, 44 
Foreign dishes, 90 
Fowler, 52 
Four-fruit jelly, 356 
Frangipane, 319 

almond, 320 

pie, 320 
French laborers, 55 
Frijol, 171 
Fritters, 312 

apple, 378 

apricot, 361 

batter for frying vegetables, 
312 

cream, 314 

French apple, 378 

frying batter, 312 

hominy, 322 

peach,' 362 

plain, 312 

preserve, 312 

puffed, 313 

puffs, 313 

puffs with cream, 313 

raspberry, 351 

strawberiy, 346 
Fruit, baking and canning, 342 

canning, stewed, 341 

comfit pie, 346 

comfits, 346 

cooking and canning, 343 

ices and sherbets, 340 

juices, canning, 343 

juices, canning or bottling, 344 

keeping, 340 

raw, 340 

stewed, 341 

stewing and canning, 343 
Frumenty, 273 
Fuel for muscles, 35 

for muscular work, 33 



407 



Garden pea, 164 
Gassendi, 60 
Gautier, 54 

Gelatine-jelly, 3S4 

ribbon form, 386 

with currants, 385 

with currants and raspber- 
ries, 385 

with lemon, 385 

with medley of fruit, 387 

with orange, 385 

with punch, 386 

with rum, 386 

with strawberries, 385 
Gelatine, vegetable, 384 
General methods, 75 
Gingerbread, 297 

sponge, 297 
Gingersnaps, 297 
Good-Mary cheese, 111 

cream. Ill 
Gooseberries, 353 

green pudding, 354 

green, stewed, 353 

pie, 354 

stewing and canning, 354 
Gourds, 84, 224 
Graham, 52 
Graham bread, 285 
Grape, 365 

jelly, 366 

juice, canning, 366 

juice, preserving fruit, 366 

pie, 365 

preserve, 365 

stewed, 365 

stewing, canning, 365 
Great naturalists favor vegetar- 
ianism, 62 
Green-beans, 172 

blanching, 173 

canning, 174 

drying, 173 

in brine, 173 

plain, 173 

preliminary cooking, 174 

preserving, 173 
Green-corn, 222 

boiled, 222 

cakes, 223 

cut from cob, 222 

muffins, 223 



on the cob, 222 

oysters, 223 
Green-mint, 205 

vinegar, 205 
Green-peas, 164 

canned, 165 

mashed, 165 

soup, 166 

with butter, 164 

with sugar, 165 
Griddle cakes, 293 
Groom-Napier, 51 

Harmful ingredients in meat, 56 
Hasty pudding, 323 
Heat of oven, 91 
Herbaceous fruits, 83, 209 
Herb broth, 183 

soup, 256 
Hester, 56 
Hindoo strength, 61 
Hoecakes, 324 
Hominv, 322 

fritters, 322 

porridge, 322 
Horseradish, 230 

powder, 230 

vinegar, 230 
Hotchpotch, 256 
Huckleberries, 371 

pudding, 371 
Human body, composition of, 35 
Husk-tomato, 220 

Ice terralac, or peanut ice cream, 

162 
Ideal diet, the average diet, 57 
Ignorance about diet, 33 
India, 55 
Indian corn, maize, 322 

batter cakes, 326 

bread. 324 

butter, 390 

flappers, 326 

muffins, 326 

mush cakes, 325 

pudding, baked, 327 

pudding, boiled, 327 

pudding without eggs, 326 
Individual experience, 62 
Instinctive disgust at meat, 69 
Intestinal canal argument, 61 



408 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Ioteyko, 54 
Irish laborers, 55 

moss, 384 
Italian -pastes, 275 

soup, 277 

soup with milk, 277 

Jams and marmalades, 343 
Jelly, 344 

apple, 380 

crabapple, 380 

barberry, 356 

blackberry, 347 

cider apple, 381 

currant, 349 

currant and raspberry, 353 

currant, French, 350 

four-fruit, 356 

grape, 306 

quince, 372 

quince, French, 372 

raspberry, 353 

raspberry and currant, 353 

raspberry, Parloa's, 353 

strawberry, 347 
Jerusalem-artichokes, 251 

boiled, 252 

fried, 252 

garnish, 253 

in milk, 252 

landlord's fashion, 252 

pullet sauce, 253 

salad, 253 

white sauce, 252 
Johnny cake, 324 
Julienne soup, 257 

soup with dried vegetables, 258 
Junket, 129 

Kale, 195 

minced, 195 
Kalidasa Sakuntala, 67 
Kanten, 384 

Kidney bean, shelled, 175 
Kipiani, 54 

Kitchen blanching, 142 
Kohl-rabi, 200 

boiled, 200 

Lablab bean, 172 
Lady fingers, 303 
Lazane soup, 277 



Leaves, 83, 179 
Leek, 202 

cream soup, 203 

hashed, 203 

soup, 203 

soup, French, 203 
Lemon, 350 

cream, 108 

pie, 351 

syrup, 351 

water ice, 351 
Lemonade, 350 

portable, 351 
Lenten mince pie, 381 
Lentils, 162 

Breton fashion, 162 

in good woman fashion, 162 

moulded, 163 

soup, 162 

stewed, 163 

with oil, 162 
Lettuce, 183 

boiled, 186 

pullet sauce, 186 

salad, 185 

salad, cream dressing, 185 

salad, French dressing, 184 

salad with cream, 185 

stuffed, 186 
Liebig, 52 
Lima- bean, 176 

boiled green, 176 

canned, 177 

dried, 177 

drying, 176 

landlord's fashion, 176 

preparatory cooking, 176 

soup, 177 

stewed, 176 

with cream, 177 
Locust bean, 177 
Lychee, 371 

Macaroni, 275 

and cheese, 275 

browned, 276 

cheese and tomato sauce, 275 

eggless omelet, 276 

Italian and cheese, 275 

Italian fashion, 276 

pie, 276 

soup, 277 



409 



Macaroons, 263 

white of egg, 103 
Maize, 322 

Man's diet mainly vegetarian, 53 
Marchpane, 263 
Marlborough pudding, 375 
Marmalades and jams, 343 
Maryland biscuit, 278 
Matsudake, 151 
Mazagan bean, 158 
Mead, 397 
Measures, 91 

Medley of brown vegetables, 258 
Melons, 88 
Mencius, 66 
Merangs, common, 103 

with cream, etc., 103 
Metchnikoff, 56 
Mexico, 55 
Milk and cream, 104 
Milk and dairy products, 82 

bacteria, 104 

balancing other foods, 82 

care, 104 

dirt, 104 

germ multiplying, 106 

in icebox, 105 

keeping cool, 105 

kept from turning, 106 

lightning jar, 105 

mustard sauce, 107 

nutriment, 82 

not necessary, 82 

pasteurizing, 105 

punch, 106 

receptacles, 105 

sauce, 107 

scalding, 105 

sterilizing, 105 

substitutes, 156 

useful for children, 82 
Milkweed shoots, 144 
Miso, 156 , 

Mixed vegetables, 259 

vegetable soups, 255 
Mock mince pie, 381 
Model foods, 50 
Moral considerations, 65 
Morels, 149 

and cepes drying, 149 
Morocco, 55 



Moulded barley, 271 

sago, 391 

sago with fruit, 391 
Muffins, 291 
Mulberry, 353 

pudding, 353 

syrup, 353 
Mungo bean, 172 
Muscle and bone builders, 35 

building element, 33 
Muscular endurance, 55 

strength of vegetarians, 54 
Mush, 323 
Mushrooms, 145 

broiled, 147 

canning, 149 

catchup, 148 

catchup, French, 148 

French broiled, 147 

fried, 147 

garnish, 145 

Italian, 151 

on shells, 146 

on toast, 146 

pie, 148 

pullet fashion, 146 

Russian, 151 

stewed, 146, 147 

stewed in Provencal fashion, 
146 

stuffed, 147 
Muskmelon, 365 
Mustard, 220 

French, 221 

in a minute, 220 

keeping, 221 

leaves, 189 

leaves and dock, 189 

mixing, 221 

seed oil, 389 
Nasturtium, 207 

pickling, 208 
Natto, 156 
Navy bean, 168 
Noodle soup, 277 
Nougat, 263 
Nutriment in the vegetable groups, 

84 
Nuts, 85, 262 



410 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



Oats, 268 

cake, 269 

meal bread, 268 

meal gruel, 268 

meal porridge, 268 

meal water, 268 
Okra, 215 

and tomato soup, 216 

boiled, 216 

Dutch sauce, 216 

stewed, 216 
Olive, 383 

oil, 387 
Omelet, asparagus tips, 98 

Celestine, 100 

eggless, 276 

fine herbs, 98 

frothy, 99 

morels, 99 

morels, another, 99 

mushrooms, 98 

mushrooms, another, 99 

onions, 99 

plain, 98 

preserves, 100 

puffed, 100 

rum, 100 

sugar, 100 

truffles, 99 
Onions, 232 

and sage pasty, 235 

boiled, white sauce, 232 

chowder, 235 

English stewed, 233 

fried, 233 

glazed, garnish, 233 

keeping, 235 

pickled, 233 

pie, 234 

pudding, 235 

soup, 234 

sou]) with milk, 234 

soup with rice or vermicelli, 234 
Orange, 363 

and lemon syrup, 363 

cream, 108 

flavor, burnt, 364 

flower cream, 108 

flower lozenges, 364 

syrup, 364 

water-ice, 363 
Orgeat syrup, 264 



Original diet vegetarian, 52 
Overset cream, 109 

porridge, 274 
Oyster plant (see salsify), 249 

Palate hitherto main guide, 79 
Palm oil, 390 
Palm-nut oil, 390 
Panada, French, 287 
Pancakes, 295 

French, 295 

sweet, 295 
Parasites in flesh, 57 
Parsley, 204 

crisped, 204 

drying, 204 
Parsnip, 251 

baked, 251 

cooking, 251 
Paste, American puff, 316 

common pie crust, 318 

for pies, 319 

for pumpkin and custard pies, 
319 

French puff, 316 

plain, 317 

sand, 315 

short, 315 

without butter, 318 
Pastry, 315 

cream, 112 
Pea and rice soup, 167 
Peach, 362 

brandied, 363 

comfits, 363 

Conde fashion, 362 

crusts, 362 

fritters, 362 

pie, 362 

preserve, 362 

stewed, 362 

stewing and canning, 362 
Peanuts, 158 

butter, 159 

milk, 159 

oil, 388 

roasted, 159 

soup, 162 

taffv, 159 
Pear, 367 

brandied, 369 

Burgandy grape preserve, 370 



411 



comfits, 369 
Conde fashion, 368 
dried, 367 
dumplings, 368 
German fashion, 368 
Norman preserve, 369 
pie, 369 
preserve, 369 
stewed, 367 
stewed with wine, 368 
stewing, canning, 369 
Pearl barley pudding, 271 
Peas and sago soup, 167 
in the pod, 166 
sausage, 155 
soup, 167 

pods, mashed, 166 
with lettuce, 165 
Pepper, cayenne, 219 
Peppers, 218 

green, stuffed, baked, 218 
pickled, 219 
Persimmon, 382 
Physalis, 220 

Physiological superiority of vege- 
tarianism, 53 
Pies, 318 

Pitcaithlv bannocks, 293 
Plum, 357 

brandied, 360 
cake, English, 299 
cake, French, 29S 
Conde fashion, 357 
crust, 358 
fresh, pudding, 357 
greengage, canning, 359 
greengage comfits, 359 
greengage marmalade, 358 
juice, 359 

Mirabelle, canning, 359 
Mirabelle, marmalade, 358 
pie, 357 

preserving, 358 
stewed, 357 
stewing, canning, 358 
Poke stalks, 144 
Pone, 324 
Pop corn, 323 
Poppy oil, 389 
Potato, 238 

and cabbage mash, 247 
baked, 240 



baked in ashes, 240 
baked in oven, 240 

boiled, 241 

browned mashed, 245 

duchess, 245 

French boiled, 241 

French soup, 246 

fried, 243 

garnish, 242 

hashed, 243 

hashed brown, 243 

in jackets, 240 

Kitchener boiled, 240 

landlord fashion, 244 

lyonnese, 242 

mashed, 245 

pie, 247 

Provencal fashion, 245 

reheated, 241 

sailor fashion, 245 

salad, 247 

scalloped, 242 

soup, 246 

steamed, 241 

stewed, 243 

straws, 244 

white sauce, 245 
Potherbs, 206 

Practicability of vegetarianism, 34 
Practical details, 89 
Predomes, 177 

fricasses, 177 
Preserves, 344 
Preserving fruit, 344 

fruit in grape juice, 344 
Princely hunting, 67 
Proteid, 35 
Protein, 35 
Prunes, 357 
Pudding, American baked plum, 311 

American boiled plum, 310 

baked batter, 308 

baked bread, 306 

batter, without eggs, 307 

boiled batter, 307 

bread, 304 

bread and butter, 306 

bread and plum in general, 311 

bread, boiled, 304 

bread, fried, 304 

bread, leftover, 304 

bread, with onions, 305 



412 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



brown betty, 307 

cloths, 305 

cottage, 309 

cream batter, 308 

French boiled bread, 305 

French bread, 306 

French rolled, 303 

groat, 303 

loaf, 304 

plum, 309 

plum sauce, 310 

quick-done, 308 

rolled, 303 

wheaten, 303 
Pulse, 83, 152 

dried, 152 

dried, soup, 154 

flour, 154 

general preparation, 152 

removing skins, 152 

roasted, 153 
Pumpkin, 226 

marmalade, 227 

mashed, 227 

pie, 227, 228 

soup, 228 
Punch, Roman, 398 

Quantity of food, differences, 42 
Quantity of food not excessive 

nitrogen, 56 
Quenefe soup, 278 
Quince, 371 

jelly, 372 

jelly, French, 372 

preserving, 372 

stewed, 371 

stewing, canning, 371 

Radish, 229 
Rapeseed oil, 389 
Raspberry, 351 

and currant jelly, 353 

and currant, stewing and can- 
ning, 352 

canning, 352 

fritters, 351 

jelly, 353 

jelly, Parloa's, 353 

juice, canning, 352 

pie, 351 

stewing and canning, 351 



vinegar, 352 

vinegar, French, 352 

vinegar syrup, 352 

water ice, 351 
Red bean, 175 

Refined dislike of slaughter, 66 
Religious considerations, 65 

sects against slaughter, 69 
Resemblances of foods, 50 
Rhubarb, 201 

canning, 201 

French pie, 202 

pie, 202 

pudding, 201, 202 

sauce, 201 
Rice, 329 

and cheese, baked, 336 

boiled, 329 

Cochin China, boiled, 330 

croquettes, 335 

English, boiled, 330 

flour gruel, 331 

milk, 331 

moulded, 334 

moulded ground, 335 

Parloa's boiled, 330 

plum pudding, 335 

pudding, baked, 333 

pudding, boiled, 332 

pudding, French, 334 

pudding, plain, French, 333 

pudding, without eggs, 332 

puff, 331 

puffed, 329 

soup, 332 

soup with milk, 332 

with onions, 331 
Richardson, 52 
Risotto, 335 

Milanese, 336 
Roman salad, 187 
Roots, 84, 229 
Roussettes, 294 
Rusk, 288 
Russell, 56 
Ruta-baga, 238 
Rye, 321 

and Indian bread, 325 

and Indian milk bread, 325 

bread, 321 

drop cakes, 321 



413 



Safflower oil, 389 
Sago, 390 

and apple pudding, 391 

pudding, 390 

soup, 390 
Salads, 183 

biscuit, 139 

buttermilk cream dressing, 137 

buttermilk cream horseradish 
dressing, 137 

cooked dressing, 125 

dressing, common, with mus- 
tard (remoulade), 186. 

dressing, French, 184 

dressing, mayonnaise, 186 

dressing, terralac- cream, 161 
Sally Lunn tea cakes, 291 
Salsify, 249 

cooking, 250 

fried, 250 

pullet sauce, 250 

white sauce, 250 
Salt, 399 

Salted peanuts, 162 
Sambayone cream, 102 
Sauces, 78, 116 

American white, 120 

another butter, 118 

another piquant, 119 

a third piquant, 119 

ayoli, 122 

Bearnese, 124 

B§chamel, 121 

black-butter, 119 

blanquette, 121 

boiling down, 116 

Bordeaux, 124 

brown, 120 

butter, 118 

cheese, 132 

cold ravigote, 122 

cold sweet, 395 

cream, 107 

curry, 123 

devilled, 123 

Dutch, 124 

egg, 103 

green mayonnaise, 122 

Italian, 124 

landlord's, 118 

Madeira, 123 

milk, 107 



milk mustard, 107 

mustard, 120 

Norman white, 120 

orange, 396 

Parisian white, 120 

pepper, 119 

piquant, 119 

plain, sour, 396 

plain, sweet, 395 

poor man's, 118 

Provengal, 124 

pullet, 121 

r6moulade, 121 

soubise, 123 

tartar, 122 

Venetian, 124 

warm ravigote, 122 

white mayonnaise, 122 

white, with capers, 121 

white, with sorrel, 121 

wine, 396 
Scorzonera, 251 

fried, 251 
Scotch sowens, 269 

laborers, 55 
Sea-kale, 144 
Sea- samphire, 204 

pickling, 204 
Scarlet runner-bean, 171 

runner-bean, boiled, 172 
Seed-cookies, 297 
Sentimental bearings, 65 
Sesame oil, 388 
Shallot vinegar, 235 
Shell beans and green peas, cook- 
ing, 153 
Sherbet, kirsch, 398 

rum, 398 
Shoots, 83, 143 
Shortcake, 297 
Shrewsbury cakes, 293 
Simnel, 286 
Slaughter, 65 
Smearcase, 130 
Smith, P. H., 106 
Snapbean, 172 
Soda biscuit, 286 
Sorrel, 181 

broth, 183 

canning, 183 

mash for a garnish, 181 

soup, 181 



414 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



soup with pulse broth, 183 
Soup, brown, 255 

another green pea soup, 166 

another lentil, 163 

mashed julienne, 258 

tablets, 155 
Sour cream salad dressing, 106 
Sourcrout, 194 

Sour-curdled curds and whey, 130 
South America, 55 
Sowens, 269 
Soy-bean, 155 

products compared with eggs, 
milk and cheese, 157 
Spaghetti, 275 
Spinach, 179 

blanching, 179 

for coloring, 180 

with broth, 180 

with cream, 179 

with egg, 179 

with sugar, 180 

without water, 180 
Split pea soup, 167 
Spring greens, 189 

soup, 257 

soup with poached eggs, 257 
Sportsmen, anglers, 71 
Squash, 226 

pie, 227, 228 

soup, 228 

stewed, 227 
Statistics of diet, 36 
Statistical proof of vegetarian 

superiority, 53 
Stewed celery, 190 
Strained jams, 343 

marmalades, 343 
Strawberries, 346 

canned, 347 

fncters, 346 

jelly, 347 

juice bottling, 347 

preserving, 347 

pie, 346 
String- beans, 172 

canned, 175 

dried, 175 

in brine, 175 

landlord's fashion, 174 

pullet fashion, 175 

salad, 175 



with cream, 175 
Subordinate additions, 76 
Succotash, 223 
Sugar, 394 

cooking, 394 

peapods, 165 
Summary of diet, 73 
Summer squash, cooking, 226 
Sunflower oil, 389 
Superiority due to abundance of 

food, 53 
Superstitious considerations, 65 
Sweet-Basil, 205 

vinegar, 205 
Sweetened rusk, 288 
Sweet-marjoram, 205 

vinegar, 205 
Sweet potato, 253 

baked, 253 

browned, 253 

candied, 254 

fried, 253 

Tapioca, 391 

pudding, 391 

soup, 391 
Tarragon, 204 

drying, 204 

vinegar, 205 
Teaseed oil, 389 
Teeth preservation, 59 
Terralac, 159 

and milk, 287 

Bavarian cheese, 161 

blancmange, 161 

cream, 161 

cream pie, 161 

cream sauce, 161 

custard, 160 

in soup, 161 

punch, 160 

sauce, 161 
Thickening, 116 

with arrowroot, 116, 392 

with butter, 116 

with butter and flour, oi 
arrowroot, 116 

with egg, 117 

with egg and cream, 118 

with flour, 116 
Tissier, 56 



415 



Toast, 288 

buttered, 2S9 

cream, 291 

dip, 290 

dry, 289 

hot water, 290 

milk. 290 

molasses, 290 

water, 2S9 
Tofu, 156 
Tolstoi society, 69 
Tomato, 211 

browned, 213 

canning stewed, 212 

canning whole, 212 

catchup, 215 

French sauce, 214 

mashed, 213 

peeling, 211 

pickled, 213 

sauce, 214 

scalloped, 212 

soup, 214 

stewed, 212 

stuffed, 213 

toast, 212 
Tree fruits, 88 

fruits, berries, melons, 339 
Truffles, 150 

canning, 150 

plain, 150 
Turck, 56 

Turkish yourt, 106 
Turnip, 236 

boiled, 236 

cabbage, 200 

hashed, 236 

hash soup, 237 

mashed, 237 

pie, 238 

pullet sauce, 237 

soup, 238 

white sauce, 237 

with sugar, 237 

Unripe cereals, 84 

Vanilla cream, 108 
Vegetarian foods classified, 80 
Vegetarian's and meat-eater's 
vegetables, 51 



Vegetable, 82, 141 

broth, 254 

changes during cooking, 141 

curry, 259 

foods, 82 

foods mean, 50 

hash, 254 

marrow, stewed, 227 

medley salad, 259 

pie, 259 

preparation and cooking in 
general, 141 

products, 89, 384 

seven groups, 83 

structure, 141 
Vermicelli, 275 

soup, 277 

soup with milk, 277 

Wafer cakes, 293, 294 
Wafers, French, 293 
Waffles, 293, 294 
Walnut, 262 

catchup, 262 

comfits, 262 

oil, 390 

old, revived, 262 

salted, green, 262 
Warm slaw, 194 
Water-cress, instead of spinach, 181 

salad, 181 
Water gruel, 323 

in food, 35 
Watermelon, 363 
Water omitted, 36 
Weights, 91 
Welsh rabbit, 133 
Wheat, 273 

and Indian bread, 324 

drop cakes, 321 

flour soup, 274 *» 
Wheaten flour, 273 

grits, 273 

grits soup, 273 

pastes, 273 
White-bean, 168 

baked, 170 

Breton fashion, 169 

cream soup, 171 

dried, salad, 169 

dried, mashed, 170 

dried, stewed, 169 



416 



VEGETARIAN DIET AND DISHES. 



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dried, with sauce, 169 

French soup, 171 

good woman's fashion, If 

mashed, 170 

preliminary hoiling, 168 

stewed, 169 

with oil, 169 
White curry, 260 

vegetable medley, 258 
Wild fruits for jellies, 382 
Windsor bean, 158 
Winter hotch-potch, 257 

squash marmalade, 227 



squash, mashed, 227 
Wine, currant, 396 

elderberry, 397 
Wonders, 293, 294 

Yanagidake, 151 
Yeast, hard, 284 

home-made, hop, 285 

milk, 284 

potato, 284 

salt rising, 284 

substitutes, 284 
Youthful vigor of vegetarians, 54 






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